Nigzcurran wrote: » That was curran? No relation!
Black_Knight wrote: » Is Cullen car care anything to do with Cullen here on boards? Didn't he have a different named site a few years back?(if it's the same guy)
Sexual Chocolate wrote: » If I wasn't applying a fallout remover yeah but when I do I'll apply it to the wheels first while they're dry, then rinse off. Using an old bottle of Carpro reset that I got from detailing shed as a shampoo. Love how little I need to use per bucket but wondering if should buy another one or change for something better value. Was thinking of something from the Autobrite range.
Northern Monkey wrote: » Has anyone used Cullen car care before? I’m 120 miles from my normal cleaning gear so not getting near that any time soon and don’t have access to water or electric in the apartment so thinking about trying ONR and see they stock it.
MetzgerMeister wrote: » You're right in a way, claying should always be done before machine polishing but machine polishing isn't always done after claying. Lots of people clay their car every 6 months and don't machine polish. Use a good lubricant (like Dodo Juice Born Slippy) and it'll be fine.
Damo 2k9 wrote: » This is something in which I Was going to ask in the beginners thread. I am really interested in applying something along the lines of Fusso Coat over the next couple of months, I understand the paint should be contaminant free so a clay bar would be used, but using a clay bar would leave the paint 'marred'. With me not having access to a machine polisher, is it possible to correct the marred paint with a hand polish? I have Autoglym Super Resin polish already, no clue if its any use for this use case!
Duff wrote: » Anyone used Slims Detailing before? Need to pick up some more green hex logic pads and they have them at a decent price..
vectra wrote: » Here you go > https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Autobrite-Direct-Heavy-Duty-Snow-Foam-Lance-Karcher-Fitting-K-Series-K4-K5/323864937692?epid=18034415061&hash=item4b67dac4dc:g:AHIAAOSwy1ZdSWI5&shqty=1&isGTR=1#shId
MetzgerMeister wrote: » "Protection" means wax, sealant etc. You should clay the car as soon as you can otherwise any protection (such as the Turtle Wax you mentioned) is being applied to the bonded contaminants and it never lasts as long or gives proper beading. You need to remove these contaminants and allow the protection to bond to the clean paint. This will allow the protection to work better and last longer. I would however bin the Turtle Wax and use a product such as Gtechniq C2V3 instead. Same idea; spray on, spread with a cloth and buff with a separate cloth.
PsychoPete wrote: » Do you have any protection on the car ? Normally takes me a few minutes and one towel to dry the car. Trying to dry an unprotected car is a bit of a pain
PsychoPete wrote: » Maybe a pump sprayer and pre wash might be better option
Peter T wrote: » That bad ? I wasn't expecting anything on par with the lance but surely could build enough foam to help lift the dirt before washing ?
Wailin wrote: » Went to make an account with detailingworld recently and they refused me! Gave a list of possible reasons of which none applied to me. Weird!