nav[aria-label="Primary Navigation"] { padding: 0; & ul { list-style: none; width: 100%; display: flex; flex-direction: row; justify-content: start; align-items: start; gap: 30px; padding: 0; & li { margin: 0; } & ul li { list-style: none; } } }

Child Item

* Motors chat - round 12 *

[Deleted User]

This thread is for motoring topics which you feel are not worthy of starting a new thread for, banter from a meet or general motoring related chit chat.

Keep it clean, be nice and helpful.

Motors charter applies.

Round 11 is HERE

Find more posts tagged with

Quick Links

Comments

Hebegeebee

CIP4 wrote: »

Steering and the car itself like a passenger would notice it. Well it’s worst around 70kmh but noticeable 50-80 kmh the harder you brake the worse it is. If you brake very gently it’s minimal / not noticeable.

It may sound obvious but check all wheel locking bolts are tight as one or more being loose could cause vibrations.
Also, check the disc retaining bolt is tight - the, usually, torx bolt that locks the disc to the hub carrier plate again a loose bolt could cause excess disc movement which could cause vibrations.
As Toyotaboi said VW discs are poor enough quality and wear pretty badly. Widely reported on GTi forums.

Tazzimus

Hebegeebee wrote: »

It may sound obvious but check all wheel locking bolts are tight as one or more being loose could cause vibrations.
Also, check the disc retaining bolt is tight - the, usually, torx bolt that locks the disc to the hub carrier plate again a loose bolt could cause excess disc movement which could cause vibrations.
As Toyotaboi said VW discs are poor enough quality and wear pretty badly. Widely reported on GTi forums.

I would have thought the wheel would stop any disc movement, being bolted to the hub and having the disc in between them. I always thought those screws were just to hold the disc in place when you take the wheels and calipers off.

Hebegeebee

Tazzimus wrote: »

I would have thought the wheel would stop any disc movement, being bolted to the hub and having the disc in between them. I always thought those screws were just to hold the disc in place when you take the wheels and calipers off.

Yes but if anything was not done up fully there's the chance that it could result in what CIP4 is seeing. There's no harm in checking them and it's easy to do.

Old diesel

Whats the deal with main dealers and paying for the car.

All bank transfers??????.

Looking* to buy a car from a main dealer in Kildare but we are in Cork.

Car is relatively rare in the spec we want so want to 100 percent nail it right from the off.

And we actually DO NEED a car before the whole "but Covid19 can't you wait thing kicks off".

*one of my brother's.

colm_mcm

Much money? You could use chip and pin for example.

Old diesel

colm_mcm wrote: »

Much money? You could use chip and pin for example.

17 k (ish).

Just wondering what the actual norm is rather then going up to Kildare with a cheque book and looking like plums if cheques are bad these days.

If it's bank transfer or the like then that's okay - it's just knowing the norm.

Edit - his missus actually paid for a car with a cheque last year. But she was let drive out the gate with it.

Can't see that happening this time - far too trusting imo.

colm_mcm

Bank transfer is fine but it isn’t instant

tcawley29

colm_mcm wrote: »

Bank transfer is fine but it isn’t instant

Unless the dealer is with the same bank

CianRyan

Postal orders are a good method, unlike a cheque they must be prepaid.
They get used a fair bit for anyone that's not using finance.

colm_mcm

Wow, I’ve never heard of people using them to buy cars. Would be harder to identify a dud than a bank draft?

[Deleted User]

I used a credit card to buy my Mazda6 MPS all those years ago :pac:

CianRyan

I think there's so few around that no ones bothered to make duds. :pac:

Could be a generation thing, saw a lot of them in Dundrum before it closed and a high percentage of "cash" buyers were well beyond retirement age.

Don't see any sales action in Belgard as the sale and service are about 1km apart.

colm_mcm

I forgot you do Nissan, slightly older customer

Old diesel

Thank you guys.

bazz26

Western Union....

Seriously though, ask the dealer what way they are accepting payment under current circumstances.

[Deleted User]

Paid with a bank draft many years ago when I bought from main dealer.

Prepaid too so no issue there.

But as others have said. Ask the dealer

ShadowHearth

Well F me sideways, I just had a great start today.... Postman woke me up with big fat letter. It's my insurance renewal. It went from 1000eu to 1138eu! I wonder how they spinning ****y excuse this time?

I did not even had coffee yet...

Austmcc

ShadowHearth wrote: »

Well F me sideways, I just had a great start today.... Postman woke me up with big fat letter. It's my insurance renewal. It went from 1000eu to 1138eu! I wonder how they spinning ****y excuse this time?

I did not even had coffee yet...

Don't even...

Mine is due soon too. It's all gone up and others still won't touch the car and me cause I'm under 30. The cheapest insurance I ever paid was in my very first year under my own name. This experience (NCB) I'm having is costing me money!

* I know the car gets older, blah blah blah, and I then upgraded the car etc etc. I'm just having a rant.

CIP4

ShadowHearth wrote: »

Well F me sideways, I just had a great start today.... Postman woke me up with big fat letter. It's my insurance renewal. It went from 1000eu to 1138eu! I wonder how they spinning ****y excuse this time?

I did not even had coffee yet...

Ironically woke up to similar I got an email with my renewal €1070 this morning I was expecting about €900. Will shop around should definitely be able to get it down a bit from that anyway.

I got an email during the week saying liberty were doing 20% off all policies this week only.

Thanks all for feedback on the brakes checked wheel nuts and all the basics last night all good. Discs look in ok condition pads are a bit worn but still plenty of material on them. Will see what the garage say.

hooch-85

Try An Post insurance, if you have more than 5 years no claims they offer 75% discount. I got insurance for the Golf R for €455 with all the benefits i had from my current insurer who wanted €960. Ironically it's the cheapest car i've ever insured. I know everyone's circumstances are different but they are definitely worth trying.

I'm 34, work in Financial Services, full license 13 years, NCB 7+ years, no points and my wife is included on my policy.

ShadowHearth

hooch-85 wrote: »

Try An Post insurance, if you have more than 5 years no claims they offer 75% discount. I got insurance for the Golf R for €455 with all the benefits i had from my current insurer who wanted €960. Ironically it's the cheapest car i've ever insured. I know everyone's circumstances are different but they are definitely worth trying.

I'm 34, work in Financial Services, full license 13 years, NCB 7+ years, no points and my wife is included on my policy.

I am 34, 16 years license, 9 years NCB and not a single point or claim!
What works against me is I live in Limerick and insurance companies see Limerick as Gas Town from Mad Max! Add me being a Chef, which ofc means I am alcoholic and insurance companies treat me like ****.

It's was AXA through broker and they sent out NCB cert with only 1 NCB! No sign of others. Do I need now to find letters of all my NCBs from previous years or I need contact my broker and ask cert with all my NCBs?

hooch-85

I do live in a very rural location so that helps.

I was with Axa too, it should show the scale of your discount i.e. 5 years plus is 50 (%).

It might say 1 year on your cert, but that's generally the numbers of years claim free on that policy, so if you only moved to them last year then it would be one year.

Tazzimus

I'm currently doing the renewal trawl as well, such a pain in the hole. I've already got one quote nearly €100 cheaper and that was my first try.

@Shadowhearth you need to contact the broker and ask for your correct NCB doc, they clearly ****ed that up.

ShadowHearth

hooch-85 wrote: »

I do live in a very rural location so that helps.

I was with Axa too, it should show the scale of your discount i.e. 5 years plus is 50 (%).

It might say 1 year on your cert, but that's generally the numbers of years claim free on that policy, so if you only moved to them last year then it would be one year.

Yeah, they have that scale up to 60%, but they giving me only 50% discount on policy itself and there is no indication anywhere on cert that it's 9 NCB. On all the other renewal pages it states 9NCB. Do I need after all contact broker and ask proper NCB cert from them?

hooch-85

Once you are up to the max discount on the scale (5+ years) it doesn't matter if you have 9 years or 5 they apply the same discount.

ShadowHearth

hooch-85 wrote: »

Once you are up to the max discount on the scale (5+ years) it doesn't matter if you have 9 years or 5 they apply the same discount.

Applies to all companies or only AXA?

hooch-85

All companies as far as I know. You can still declare the amount of years no claims you have, if that option is available, a lot of online systems go to 1-5 and 5+ on NCB drop down option but some let you select up to 10 years.

ShadowHearth

hooch-85 wrote: »

All companies as far as I know. You can still declare the amount of years no claims you have, if that option is available, a lot of online systems go to 1-5 and 5+ on NCB drop down option but some let you select up to 10 years.

Aye, that's why I am asking, chill.ie has 9++ years as option, but how do I prove it if I get just that cert. And something tells me, that's the only letter I can get.
I haven't switched policies in about 4 years as my broker would always come best. So a bit Rusty.

Thanks by the way for info.

[Deleted User]

ShadowHearth wrote: »

I am 34, 16 years license, 9 years NCB and not a single point or claim!
...........

It's was AXA through broker and they sent out NCB cert with only 1 NCB! No sign of others. Do I need now to find letters of all my NCBs from previous years or I need contact my broker and ask cert with all my NCBs?

Yup, the NCB should detail total years, the 1 year detailed is just for that period with the insurer, very, very sloppy of them to do that.

Manic Moran

Out of interest, since it's coming up on another thread, is there a difference between PCP and a lease? I don't hear the latter being talked about much on here, but the wiki page indicates that the purchase at the end is mandatory whilst a lease here in the US allows you to just walk away at the end of the lease period if you don't want to buy at residual cost. If so, is there a reason why leasing has not taken off in Ireland?

If it makes you guys feel less hard-done by, my insurance here in Texas is over $1,500 for the year on the 2015 BMW 550. Even the 15-year-old S4 is $900. My insurance shot up compared to California (I think the hailstorms are the main reason). On the other hand, I pay $52.50/year on tax, so it's not all hard-done by.