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Messing with aux port, now car won't start

beckman

Hi, i was messing with glove box on my 2009 ford focus, in an attempt to fix the aux port.i had removed it and re inserted it. I had the key turned at the time. Now my car is conplately dead.the engine wont start .the charger port is dead, the radio and screen behind the steering wheel are also gone dead. Key cental lpcking also not working. I have obviously blown something electrical while doing my DIY work.any advice on how to fix this??

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colm_mcm

Any chance your battery just went flat?

Do the headlights or horn work?

biketard

Have you checked the fuses?

beckman

colm_mcm wrote: »

Any chance your battery just went flat?

Do the headlights or horn work?

The horn is working but the noise is very faint.the headlights are working alright, except the full lights.

beckman

biketard wrote: »

Have you checked the fuses?

Not sure how to do this....

punisher5112

Fuses behind glove box or in engine bay.

Does it click when you turn the key?

If you pull the fuse you will see if it's melted and broke the connection in the middle.
Possible you hit a fuse or pulled something at rear of glove box as Fuse are located there.

beckman

punisher5112 wrote: »

Fuses behind glove box or in engine bay.

Does it click when you turn the key?

If you pull the fuse you will see if it's melted and broke the connection in the middle.
Possible you hit a fuse or pulled something at rear of glove box as Fuse are located there.

It doesnt click at all, completely dead. The radio and dash lights are coming on and off intermitte tly.

corks finest

beckman wrote: »

Hi, i was messing with glove box on my 2009 ford focus, in an attempt to fix the aux port.i had removed it and re inserted it. I had the key turned at the time. Now my car is conplately dead.the engine wont start .the charger port is dead, the radio and screen behind the steering wheel are also gone dead. Key cental lpcking also not working. I have obviously blown something electrical while doing my DIY work.any advice on how to fix this??

Disconnect the battery for 30 m,check n change fuse, reconnect,just read the lights part,yes battery flat

un5byh7sqpd2x0

beckman wrote: »

The horn is working but the noise is very faint.the headlights are working alright, except the full lights.

Your battery is flat, get a set of jump leads and another car

beckman

Calliope Rhythmic Teacher wrote: »

Your battery is flat, get a set of jump leads and another car

I tried to jump start it but nothing happened .

punisher5112

Check and push fuses on panel, aux cable wouldn't cause this but you may well have tipped off something else....

As above disconnect battery, leave off for a little while, connect again, rev the car that is running to about 2k revs or a little more and do this for 2 or 3 minutes, keep at a constant rev.

Then try starting the car, the battery could well be knackered.

biko

beckman wrote: »

I tried to jump start it but nothing happened .

Sometimes you have to leave it connected to donor car for 5/10 mins before trying to start your own.

corks finest

beckman wrote: »

Hi, i was messing with glove box on my 2009 ford focus, in an attempt to fix the aux port.i had removed it and re inserted it. I had the key turned at the time. Now my car is conplately dead.the engine wont start .the charger port is dead, the radio and screen behind the steering wheel are also gone dead. Key cental lpcking also not working. I have obviously blown something electrical while doing my DIY work.any advice on how to fix this??

Get a loan of a battery to make sure it's a battery problem or not

Stoolbend

Also check the connections on the fuse box under the glovebox. Make sure all the plugs are firmly in place.

colm_mcm

If the horn is half working, it’s probably the battery.

Toyotafanboi

Yeah, sounds like nothing more than a flat battery.

If you are trying to start it using tesco value jump leads or the likes it probably still wont start, you need a good quality set if the battery is dead.

9935452

biko wrote: »

Sometimes you have to leave it connected to donor car for 5/10 mins before trying to start your own.

With the donor car running so it can charge the flat battery

PukkaStukka

The focus has a smart charge system and it is strongly recommend that you DO NOT jump start one with a flat battery. Read below, the bold bit is an extract from that website

http://www.petercoopercarrepairs.co.uk/ford_focus_alternator_smart_charging.htm

Another point to add is, never, ever, jump start a Smart Charge vehicle with a flat battery.

The system can produce up to 18 volts, which can fry major modules.

Toyotafanboi

I dont think I'd be worried about that. Never seen it happen in reality. Why would the car be designed to produce something that could damage it?

CoBo55

Toyotafanboi wrote: »

I dont think I'd be worried about that. Never seen it happen in reality. Why would the car be designed to produce something that could damage it?

Because the type of battery ford use is designed to absorb the high voltage. I wouldn't be keen on jumping it with a modern car tbh, one of those booster packs would be better.

PukkaStukka

Toyotafanboi wrote: »

I dont think I'd be worried about that. Never seen it happen in reality. Why would the car be designed to produce something that could damage it?

The smart charge system is designed to increase voltage where circumstances require it. If you had a weak battery on a very cold morning, the PCM can command a higher output voltage to meet the load particularly if one turned on a front and rear screen demister, and headlights. In the case of jump starting, the risk is to the car being just jumped, not the vehicle doing the jumping.

I've had to diagnose a smart charge system fault on my wife's CMax before. It was under charging the battery and struggling to meet high loads. The PCM was logging an intermittent DTC for a smart charge fault. Scoping one of the three small wires plugged to the rear of the alternator showed that the PCM was trying to modulate the alternator to increase the output but the alternator didn't seem to want to up its game. I was full sure the alternator was to blame and set about pulling it out, but disconnecting the plug I mentioned above showed it was tarnished inside and creating a high resistance. A clean up did the trick! That article I linked to previously was a godsend going through the system