Limp mode keeps coming back - VW

JAMES VTI S wrote:

I don't have blown bulbs though. Thanks.

K bud just a thought,auto electrician needed maybe

Ah ffs, mr muscle is for cleaning kitchens and toilets, it's acid based. for feck sake don't ever put it near an engine!!!

Ref brake bulbs ,brake light switch also went at the same time on my fabia ,this ALWAYS puts a car into limp mode

ice.cube wrote: »

Fairly unusual fix tbh, fair play if it worked for you. I wouldn’t get too upset if I was pushing your idea and getting a little backlash from it!

Thanks for your support ice.cube, but TBH, Derogatory comment's like "Snake Oil Salesman, and uber sarcastic "why not top up the windscreen as a solution" do not add anything to the discussion,,,,and if this is the best Bos55 and Toyotafanboi can do.....it will not exactly encourage people to reply to any poster who has a problem, and is looking for some advice / help. People are trying to be help full, even if they are not expert's, they are writing about their own experiences...if these comment's are not welcome, then restrict all reply's to " Qualified Personnel Only". And see what does for input on Board's.

Re. 2 Stroke Oil
Extract from Baileys Diesel Group:
QUOTE:-
For adding 2 stroke oil,
The Truth About Adding Two-Stroke Oil To Diesel In Modern Common Rail Engines
March 22, 2016 2jzhilux 75 comments
It seems counter-intuitive to be utilising 2-stroke oil in diesel on common rail, low emission vehicles. The actual premise behind adding 2-stroke does carry weight in certain instances. Vehicles equipped with Bosch, Delphi, or even Siemens fuel systems generally don’t need it. Therefore, you’re unlikely to see a significant change in engine performance or noise with the use of 2-stroke Oil in the diesel.
When and how to use the 2 Stroke in Diesel:
However, if you have a 2005-2012 Denso Common Rail equipped system, your vehicle will most likely notice significant changes. You need 2-stroke premixed oil.
Do not use in cars equipped with DPF
UNQUOTE.

The full article can be read on their site. You can also find other site's where 2T oil is not recommended....so in the end, it's up to the individual. Some swear by it, and some swear at it...I'm of the "swear by it" persuasion.

It may seem like an unusual fix, as you say, but it works,( for me, and other's too) and is not as uncommon as people seem to think. The best mechanic's that I have worked with, when faced with a problem ( and even with OBD diagnostics, you can still get problem's ) would be prepared to try sometimes "unconventional " solutions, even if they sounded a bit bizarre at the outset.Any mechanic will know this.
My 1.9tdi showed injectors misfiring, and the Garage I took it to get a scan ( I don't have VagCom / Ross OBD reader) was all set to replace all 4 injectors...@ €200+ per Injector plus fitting and VAT. But I removed the car and tried the harness instead. So while the OBD scan showed misfiring, it did not pinpoint the actual cause, which was the wiring harness. Removing it and cleaning the connections ( as advised on the VAG forum ) worked, and is still working.
Had I given the green light to go ahead and replace the injectors...it would have solved the problem, not because of the injectors, but in replacing them the harness would have been removed, and refitted, and this alone may have cleaned the connections....but we would never know then, would we? I wonder just how many jobs have been done on vehicles, where the fixing was "accidental"??? Interesting question.

HailSatan

Is the blown bulbs thing an urban legend thing or what? I've heard it before but haven't seen it myself.

I thought oven cleaner was a common DIY egr cleaner. Has that been superceded now since Steve is so dismissive?

Orderofchaos

Don't go solely by the codes. My car was giving me turbo actuator errors, usual response from non specialists would be to replace the actuator then try replacing the turbo. A little bit of research with knowledgeable people and I was directed to clean the Map and Maf sensors which have permanently fixed my issue.

Toyotafanboi

jmreire wrote: »

I had a 1.9 tdi Audi for a few years, a bit older than your's ( 2003 ) and it started this limp home mode, so I started to put 400 ml 2 T oil into the fuel tank every time I filled it, result. no more limp home modes... So maybe worth a try for you?

jmreire wrote: »

Thanks for your support ice.cube, but TBH, Derogatory comment's like "Snake Oil Salesman, and uber sarcastic "why not top up the windscreen as a solution" do not add anything to the discussion,,,,and if this is the best Bos55 and Toyotafanboi can do.....it will not exactly encourage people to reply to any poster who has a problem, and is looking for some advice / help. People are trying to be help full, even if they are not expert's, they are writing about their own experiences...if these comment's are not welcome, then restrict all reply's to " Qualified Personnel Only". And see what does for input on Board's.

There's no issue with replying, but there's also no issue with questioning the replys.

I'm just wondering how adding 2 stroke oil to his diesel will fix a persistent overboost fault?

It wont. Unless I'm missing something and you can explain how it will?

I know it used to be recommended to do this as the additional lubrication from the 2 stroke was intended to aid the longevity of fuel pumps and injectors and the likes but surely adding an additional oil to the diesel also causes more soot and carbon in the exhaust which would in all likelihood make the OP's potential exhaust vane issue worse, not better?

You used it and it didn't harm the car and that's great, but personally I cannot see this doing the OP any good service whatsoever.

HailSatan wrote:

Is the blown bulbs thing an urban legend thing or what? I've heard it before but haven't seen it myself.

Google it reference fabia- happened to me , combination of brake light switch and blown brake bulbs put it into limp mode - my auto electrician changed the brake light switch in 10 seconds,I replaced bulbs in 2 minutes+ job done

Kenny Logins

Steve wrote: »

Ah ffs, mr muscle is for cleaning kitchens and toilets, it's acid based. for feck sake don't ever put it near an engine!!!

In the exhaust side of the turbo, not in the engine.

Kenny Logins

HailSatan wrote: »

Is the blown bulbs thing an urban legend thing or what? I've heard it before but haven't seen it myself.

I thought oven cleaner was a common DIY egr cleaner. Has that been superceded now since Steve is so dismissive?

My A6 wouldn't drive with a gammy brake light switch. Not sure what exactly was going on but it felt like a fuel pump cutting out.

Oven cleaner is fine on exhaust parts, but not sure I'd risk it on an EGR directly.

vandriver

'Mine has 337,000k KM's on it, this is its first problem in nearly 10 years of ownership'

Do you run a business?

my3cents

HailSatan wrote: »

Is the blown bulbs thing an urban legend thing or what? I've heard it before but haven't seen it myself.

I thought oven cleaner was a common DIY egr cleaner. Has that been superceded now since Steve is so dismissive?

Engine light comes on on my old VW Polo if there is a blown indicator bulb

Took me a while to work that one out :rolleyes:

my3cents

OP has anyone popped open all the electrical connectors in the circuit that controls the component that was replaced?

I had an issue that went on for ages that turned out to be corrosion on the contacts inside one of the connector blocks.

What seemed to happen was engine light would come on I'd take a look at the component that was listed on the diagnostic tool and in the process move the connector block that was causing the problem. Doing that obviously did enough for the contacts to work again for a bit. Rince repeat for a good few times until I followed the loom through and found the main connector block had 2 contacts covered in corrosion. All I did was flood them with switch cleaner and push the connector on and off a few times, now its OK again.

ice.cube

This is one of the strangest treads I have seen ðŸ˜‚

Toyotafanboi wrote: »

There's no issue with replying, but there's also no issue with questioning the replys.

I'm just wondering how adding 2 stroke oil to his diesel will fix a persistent overboost fault?

It wont. Unless I'm missing something and you can explain how it will?

I know it used to be recommended to do this as the additional lubrication from the 2 stroke was intended to aid the longevity of fuel pumps and injectors and the likes but surely adding an additional oil to the diesel also causes more soot and carbon in the exhaust which would in all likelihood make the OP's potential exhaust vane issue worse, not better?

You used it and it didn't harm the car and that's great, but personally I cannot see this doing the OP any good service whatsoever.

The OP had limp home problem, and had a scan done. Scan showed boost problem, New part fitted,, worked for awhile, then stopped. OP asked for advice.
I had a limp home problem too, and explained what cured it in my car, I never claimed it was a definite fix for the OP's car, but for the sake of €5 worth of 2T oil, maybe it was worth a try,,what did he have to lose??
I used it for the last 20'000 Miles that I had the car before I sold it, present owner has at least another 20'000 miles done,,,and still no problem's that you describe IE sticking vane's etc.

Replying to a reply, is one thing...no problem there, Board's is meant to be a discussion forum, but rubbishing a reply , as you did is not acceptable., and even more so from a MOD.

For more details about using 2T oil in diesel engined car's, have a look at:- https://www.baileysdiesel.com

CoBo55

jmreire wrote: »

The OP had limp home problem, and had a scan done. Scan showed boost problem, New part fitted,, worked for awhile, then stopped. OP asked for advice.
I had a limp home problem too, and explained what cured it in my car, I never claimed it was a definite fix for the OP's car, but for the sake of €5 worth of 2T oil, maybe it was worth a try,,what did he have to lose??
I used it for the last 20'000 Miles that I had the car before I sold it, present owner has at least another 20'000 miles done,,,and still no problem's that you describe IE sticking vane's etc.

Replying to a reply, is one thing...no problem there, Board's is meant to be a discussion forum, but rubbishing a reply , as you did is not acceptable., and even more so from a MOD.

For more details about using 2T oil in diesel engined car's, have a look at:- https://www.baileysdiesel.com

The new part fitted made no difference as the original part was correctly telling the ECU there was too much boost. Please please stop with the strimmer oil rubbish you're doing my bloody head in at this stage.

CoBo55 wrote: »

The new part fitted made no difference as the original part was correctly telling the ECU there was too much boost. Please please stop with the strimmer oil rubbish you're doing my bloody head in at this stage.

Simple solution then, don't read my post's

and I'll return the favour, OK?

[Deleted User]

jmreire wrote: »

Simple solution then, don't read my post's

or run a bit of 2T oil through them

CoBo55

The brake light switch plays an important role in sending information to the ECU, if it goes wrong the ECU thinks you are braking and cuts fuel. The driver keeps pressing the accelerator, ECU can't understand what's going on and puts everything into limp mode. A faulty stop and tail bulb can cause exactly the same symptoms, I had that problem in an early B5 Passat ( wrong bulb fitted by dumb mechanic)

Deleted User wrote: »

or run a bit of 2T oil through them

Yeah...it will work wonder's..... but only the chape stuff, mind....

:D:D

HailSatan wrote: »

I thought oven cleaner was a common DIY egr cleaner. Has that been superceded now since Steve is so dismissive?

Kenny Logins wrote: »

In the exhaust side of the turbo, not in the engine.

Kenny Logins wrote: »

Oven cleaner is fine on exhaust parts, but not sure I'd risk it on an EGR directly.

Oven cleaners mostly rely on sodium hydroxide (NaOH) to break down grease. I was wrong, it's not acid, it's a strong alkali.

It will certainly remove carbon and soot but will also react strongly with aluminium and corrode it agressively over time. In general, exhausts don't have aluminium in them but turbo casings and bearing housings do.

If you've ever done any SS welding and used pickling paste (hydrofluoric acid and nitric acid) to clean the welds you'll see how quickly cleaning can turn into corrosion and damage.

HailSatan

Steve wrote: »

Oven cleaners mostly rely on sodium hydroxide (NaOH) to break down grease. I was wrong, it's not acid, it's a strong alkali.

It will certainly remove carbon and soot but will also react strongly with aluminium and corrode it agressively over time. In general, exhausts don't have aluminium in them but turbo casings and bearing housings do.

If you've ever done any SS welding and used pickling paste (hydrofluoric acid and nitric acid) to clean the welds you'll see how quickly cleaning can turn into corrosion and damage.

So you're saying a quick blast of it wouldn't do any harm?

CoBo55 wrote:

The brake light switch plays an important role in sending information to the ECU, if it goes wrong the ECU thinks you are braking and cuts fuel. The driver keeps pressing the accelerator, ECU can't understand what's going on and puts everything into limp mode. A faulty stop and tail bulb can cause exactly the same symptoms, I had that problem in an early B5 Passat ( wrong bulb fitted by dumb mechanic)

Thank you op was suggesting I was off the ball

HailSatan wrote: »

So you're saying a quick blast of it wouldn't do any harm?

As long as you clean it off properly, no.

my3cents wrote:

Engine light comes on on my old VW Polo if there is a blown indicator bulb Took me a while to work that one out

Yep same family Skoda/ vw

jmreire wrote:

Replying to a reply, is one thing...no problem there, Board's is meant to be a discussion forum, but rubbishing a reply , as you did is not acceptable., and even more so from a MOD.

Well put

corks finest wrote: »

Well put

I'm not a mod here, however as a cmod that has had to deal with flack from such comments, I would kindly advise you that there is a site-wide ethos that you don't discuss mod posts on thread, it only drags everything off topic. Pm the mod or their cmod with your concerns.

BobLeeSwagger

Your engine code is BLS if it's a 2007 1.9tdi Caddy. Any mechanic that is use to working on VW's will know where to start on this & when to give up too.