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The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

aoifski

I'd appreciate some advice about lawns and lawn mowers. We have about 1/4 -1/3 an acre of lawn. Top soil was put down when we moved in about 4 years ago, not the best stuff - quite stoney. We raked but did not rotovate it at the time, and then rolled and then sowed a lawn.

It's ok - the surface is a bit rough still and not flat. We have a petrol rotary at the moment and it takes quite a while to cut all this grass. And it grows like wildfire in the spring/summer.

We want to buy new rideon mower and I am all for buying a tractor mower to spin around the lawn in as little time as possible.

My husband has gotten it in his head somehow that he wants this manicured lawn, and wants to buy a petrol powered cylinder mower - the ones used for cricket and golf greens! Believe me our lawn and surface is far from this!

Questions:

To get even surface with manicured lawn would we have to rotovate and completely redo the surface/soil and resow?
Presumably a cylinder mower (self propelled) is totally unsuitable for what we have right now?
Any tractor mower recommendations for a nice cut which will appease my husband?!

Thanks in advance!

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deezell

fryup wrote: »

well mine is a B&S and it doesn't say, so i don't if i'm over or under filling

Twist or stick, once you're under the Max marker you can't go wrong.

fryup

blackbox wrote: »

It's usually written on the dipstick. Briggs & Stratton twist down. I've a Husqvarna with a Kawasaki engine that says don't twist.

well mine is a B&S and it doesn't say, so i don't if i'm over or under filling

blackbox

fryup wrote: »

when you check the oil level in a mower are you suppose to dip & twist down or just dip?

It's usually written on the dipstick. Briggs & Stratton twist down. I've a Husqvarna with a Kawasaki engine that says don't twist.

SCOOP 64

fryup wrote: »

when you check the oil level in a mower are you suppose to dip & twist down or just dip?

Good question, ive always twist down.

fryup

when you check the oil level in a mower are you suppose to dip & twist down or just dip?

deezell

49801 wrote: »

Paint scraper, wire brush and elbow grease

I used standard all in one rust primer paint this year. It’s Ok but not the smoothest finish. I wonder would an epoxy paint or an epoxy lacquer be worth it to stop grass sticking to deck

It'll stick no matter what, once it's damp and mulchy. I wouldn't use a paint that dries to a brittle hard finish. The rust coat paints tend to dry to semi solid type of finish, less likely to come away from the metal from impacts with gravel, stones etc, or from the extreme vibration.

blackbox

Daz_ wrote: »

Anyone have good tips for getting stubborn dried on grass off the underside of deck ? Is there a product or home remedy that could be sprayed on for example to loosen it up?

Want to have it completely cleaned and put anti corrosion paint .

Thanks

I'd pull off whats loose and thoroughly soak whats left in soapy water. Leave overnight and it should wash off handy enough.

Daz_

deezell wrote: »

Scraper, wire brush, wire brush attachment on an angle grinder if you have flaking paint or corrosion.

Yes I do have flaking paint when I pulled off some stuck on lumps

49801

Daz_ wrote: »

Anyone have good tips for getting stubborn dried on grass off the underside of deck ? Is there a product or home remedy that could be sprayed on for example to loosen it up?

Want to have it completely cleaned and put anti corrosion paint .

Thanks

Paint scraper, wire brush and elbow grease

I used standard all in one rust primer paint this year. It’s Ok but not the smoothest finish. I wonder would an epoxy paint or an epoxy lacquer be worth it to stop grass sticking to deck

deezell

Daz_ wrote: »

Anyone have good tips for getting stubborn dried on grass off the underside of deck ? Is there a product or home remedy that could be sprayed on for example to loosen it up?

Want to have it completely cleaned and put anti corrosion paint .

Thanks

Scraper, wire brush, wire brush attachment on an angle grinder if you have flaking paint or corrosion.

Daz_

Anyone have good tips for getting stubborn dried on grass off the underside of deck ? Is there a product or home remedy that could be sprayed on for example to loosen it up?

Want to have it completely cleaned and put anti corrosion paint .

Thanks

deezell

Needles73 wrote: »

It could be the head gasket. That would be likely if it has suddenly started to smoke.

True if the smoke is coming out the side of the head, but If it's blue smoke from the exhaust It would be oil. A typical mower air cooled side valve engine has no oil channels in the head, a blown gasket can't leak oil into the combustion chamber or exhaust ports, so it would have to be valve seals or piston seal. If it's an Overhead valve engine there would be lubrication channels to the valve shafts in the head, with the possibility of oil to the head if the gasket is blown.

Needles73

deezell wrote: »

Sounds like oil getting past the valves or piston. Could also be petrol contaminated by oil or kerosene if a container was used that had some in the bottom, that would be wishful thinking though. Add some oil additive, piston rings might be sticking, run then switch off. Take out plugs and pour some solvent into the cylinders. Turn engine by hand. Next day, turn over engine. Replace plugs, drain and replace oil. Horizontal cylinders in ride ons are not ideal for this, compared to a car where they are vertical and You can cover the top of the piston.
You can also get Stop Smoke oil additives which alter the oil viscosity and coat the rings, that might reduce the smoke short term, but if the engine is worn, you'll just have to get used to it. All these additives are in your local motor factor, talk to them.

It could be the head gasket. That would be likely if it has suddenly started to smoke.

kaiserrussel

my3cents wrote: »

kaiserrussel wrote: »

It sounds like the indicator is a little to sensitive. Its possible with an empty bag you get the maximum air blast into the bag and it that which is causing the alarm to go off. If you know its going to happen every time then I think I'd leave it.

Ok got it so maybe I can try it and cut a bit to see if it will throw the indicator off.

my3cents

kaiserrussel wrote: »

kaiserrussel wrote: »

Hi All

So since my last post I’ve been able to use it twelve at times I’ve chosen due to weather. Very happy so far. A lot of power and a good bagger.

I have one question. Though seems that the full box alert comes on when I engage blades with an empty box. Is that an indication of something else wrong?

All in all very happy with this

It sounds like the indicator is a little to sensitive. Its possible with an empty bag you get the maximum air blast into the bag and it that which is causing the alarm to go off. If you know its going to happen every time then I think I'd leave it.

kaiserrussel

kaiserrussel wrote: »

kaiserrussel wrote: »

Hi all

Mower arrived today so with fading light I’ll see what’s involved in getting this this together.
Not sure how much assembly is involved.

Hopefully not too much

Hi All

So since my last post I’ve been able to use it twice at the times I’ve chosen due to weather. Very happy so far. A lot of power and a good bagger.

I have one question. Though seems that the full box alert comes on when I engage blades with an empty box. Is that an indication of something else wrong?

All in all very happy with this

deezell

fryup wrote: »

my ride on seems to be coughing up a lot of blue smoke lately??....otherwise its running ok

Sounds like oil getting past the valves or piston. Could also be petrol contaminated by oil or kerosene if a container was used that had some in the bottom, that would be wishful thinking though. Add some oil additive, piston rings might be sticking, run then switch off. Take out plugs and pour some solvent into the cylinders. Turn engine by hand. Next day, turn over engine. Replace plugs, drain and replace oil. Horizontal cylinders in ride ons are not ideal for this, compared to a car where they are vertical and You can cover the top of the piston.
You can also get Stop Smoke oil additives which alter the oil viscosity and coat the rings, that might reduce the smoke short term, but if the engine is worn, you'll just have to get used to it. All these additives are in your local motor factor, talk to them.

fryup

my ride on seems to be coughing up a lot of blue smoke lately??....otherwise its running ok

listermint

Douge wrote: »

Thanks deezell I’ll keep researching.

Do what I did. Buy a robot mower and keep a powered push mower for anything else.

Don't be wasting hours of your time driving a mower around let a robot do it for you.

Reasonable money I got a McCullough Rob1000 for 550 euro in the sales last year.

It does 80% of the mowing for me. By itself.

awec

Folks, I'm after a mower for my small garden. Been looking at the flymo easi glide 300, but I've seen a few reviews on amazon that worry me a bit.

The lawn itself is pretty small, I would say 10m x 10m.

I think petrol is overkill for the size of the lawn, so was looking at electric. I've never used an electric lawnmower before, so not really sure what to look for! Also not sure whether or not the hover ones are any use.

Any recommendations?

my3cents

Douge wrote: »

Thanks deezell I’ll keep researching.

Here's another one to think about https://www.snapper.com/eu/en_gb/product-catalog/lawn-tractors/rer200-classic-rider.html, Snapper RER2000 Classic Rider. Its was a bit of a unique design years back and while Briggs and Stratton messed some of it up when they took the company over the main deck is and hi lift vac is essentially the same. Its only a 33 inch cut but can get into reasonably tight spaces. The main feature if you get the bagging kit is that it happily vacuums up leaves and I used to use it to vacuum up hedge trimmings.

The big selling point for me is the big deep deck with a single blade. With the hi lift kit (just a bolt on to the blade) it creates a massive amount of suck and air draft for picking up grass and leaves. I used to use it to pick up leaves from London Plane trees (they are huge and leathery). The only problem is the grass box will need a lot of emptying if you are picking up leaves.

Douge

Thanks deezell I’ll keep researching.

deezell

Douge wrote: »

Hi Anyone with any knowledge of MTD ride on mowers ,how reliable ,parts availability etc

Only that they make a lot of the big box US store mowers, Sears, Home Depot, also Yardman, Cub Cadet, and of course Murray (Murray Tractor Division is, some say MTD, but it actually stands for Modern Tool and Die company). They also make John Deeres cheapo mowers (is there such a thing ?) They make their European range in Germany.

deezell

high society wrote: »

Thanks Deezell, much appreciate reply. Have a petrol mower, but tbh, it takes at least three hours to get it all cut, once a week, which is fine, but that's only cutting the grass. I need something that will take the heavy work out of this job at least. Coming into the autumn, there will be the leaf fall again, and with quite a number of trees, I was hoping to get a mulcher attachment with a ride on, to cut down on the amount of cuttings I have to compost. The grass in the most open area, still has six ornamental trees, hedging around it, and a biggish flower bed. The other main grass area, has about ten trees, and hedging around the house and roadside area. Absolutely beautiful garden, but if I can make one task easier, I'll take it!!

3 hours, that would give you a pith all right. Trying to mow leaf fall covered grass with a collector is another one. Forest, beds, shrubs, pond, verges, specimen trees, your acre sounds like a miniature of my 3. If you forego bagging altogether, I'd recommend this mulcher, front deck, you'll cut dead tight to trees and edges, no wheel compression of the grass prior to cutting, no need for composting. You'll mow more frequently perhaps, but not for 3 hours at a time.
https://www.agrieuro.co.uk/jonsered-fr2312ma-front-cut-ride-on-mower-with-hydrostatic-transmission-front-mower-p-15899.html

Douge

Hi Anyone with any knowledge of MTD ride on mowers ,how reliable ,parts availability etc

high society

Thanks Deezell, much appreciate reply. Have a petrol mower, but tbh, it takes at least three hours to get it all cut, once a week, which is fine, but that's only cutting the grass. I need something that will take the heavy work out of this job at least. Coming into the autumn, there will be the leaf fall again, and with quite a number of trees, I was hoping to get a mulcher attachment with a ride on, to cut down on the amount of cuttings I have to compost. The grass in the most open area, still has six ornamental trees, hedging around it, and a biggish flower bed. The other main grass area, has about ten trees, and hedging around the house and roadside area. Absolutely beautiful garden, but if I can make one task easier, I'll take it!!

deezell

high society wrote: »

Hi guys, just a question for you. We've moved to a house with a big garden, nearly an acre, having had a tiny garden in Dublin. Problem is, we're at a loss as to what sort of mower to get. It's a beautiful garden, designed in smaller garden areas, small orchard, wooded area, flower beds, even a pond, and trees dotted around most of the rest. Looking at Stiga, having seen some of the posts here, metal deck, and wondered if Agrieuro, either UK or Italian ones mentioned in this thread, are still the best value. Appreciate any advice. Thank you.

Have a look at your site on Google maps, try and estimate how much of the acre is grass. If it's near half or more, you will need a big size mower, 53 cm blade at least. If the grass area is dotted with curves, trees, beds etc, this will further slow up mowing. Variable speed is useful for negotiating obstacle courses slowly, then open up on the straight. A small ride on may not suit if the grass area is fractured and fussy. I'd advise hiring a wide power driven walk behind a few times to see out the season, and see how long it takes and if it's a pita. You'll soon figure out if you need a ride on, or maybe an extra wide walk behind like the Toro Timemaster, 76cm cut, close in size to small ride ons but a lot less expensive, about twice the price of a 53cm walk behind.

my3cents

listermint wrote: »

ya mine seem to be a plastic thing with a ball bearing on it too. Doesnt appear to be anyway to remove it sans damage.

so just tried blowing through it.

Gave it a run out and cut the grass yesterday idle still has that problem but shes running. It may clean itself out il just give it some hard work see if it shifts.

Then try sticking at least a liter of Aspen fuel through it.

listermint

my3cents wrote: »

And one for listermint, from about 4min 30 seconds.

I forgot to mention cleaning the holes in the carb plug.

ya mine seem to be a plastic thing with a ball bearing on it too. Doesnt appear to be anyway to remove it sans damage.

so just tried blowing through it.

Gave it a run out and cut the grass yesterday idle still has that problem but shes running. It may clean itself out il just give it some hard work see if it shifts.

high society

Hi guys, just a question for you. We've moved to a house with a big garden, nearly an acre, having had a tiny garden in Dublin. Problem is, we're at a loss as to what sort of mower to get. It's a beautiful garden, designed in smaller garden areas, small orchard, wooded area, flower beds, even a pond, and trees dotted around most of the rest. Looking at Stiga, having seen some of the posts here, metal deck, and wondered if Agrieuro, either UK or Italian ones mentioned in this thread, are still the best value. Appreciate any advice. Thank you.