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Child Item

Heat recovery system

teednab-el

Hi

Just wondering has anyone here put in air to water with UFH upstairs and downstairs and without a heat recovery system?

Thanks

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teednab-el

BryanF wrote: »

Yes

Il get the info and report back.

runawaybishop

BryanF wrote: »

8k sound about right for unit plus ducting/ attenuators/ grill install.

2-2.5k for the unit and ducting, 5.5-6k for labour?

selfbuild17

€8k sounds like a lot. I’m seeing prices of about €6k for typical detached house at the moment

teednab-el

BryanF wrote: »

8k sound about right for unit plus ducting/ attenuators/ grill install

OP,
Let’s start at the beginning,
1. have you carried out a provisional BER assessment?
2. What technology is proposed to achieve renewable compliance?
3. What air-tightness factor is specified in your construction contract?
4. What heating system is currently proposed ?
5. What ventilation system is currently proposed?

1. No
2. air to water
3. Air tightness to first floor ceilings.
4. Underfloor heating downstairs and upstairs.
5. Vents on walls but subject to change.

knipex

teednab-el wrote: »

1. No
2. air to water
3. Air tightness to first floor ceilings.
4. Underfloor heating downstairs and upstairs.
5. Vents on walls but subject to change.

You really need to get advice and not from your builder.

1. Get a preliminary BER
2. OK
3. Air-tightness is measured in air-changes per hour. Have you set a required standard in your contract with the builder ? Will it be checked and certified before sign off or are you just planning on taking the builders word that its airtight ? (get it tested dotn take his word)
4. OK
5. This doesn't make sense.. How are you going to have an airtight house if its going to have holes (vents) in the walls ??? Are you going to have a fireplace ? A stove ??

brav

knipex wrote: »

You really need to get advice and not from your builder.

1. Get a preliminary BER
2. OK
3. Air-tightness is measured in air-changes per hour. Have you set a required standard in your contract with the builder ? Will it be checked and certified before sign off or are you just planning on taking the builders word that its airtight ? (get it tested dotn take his word)
4. OK
5. This doesn't make sense.. How are you going to have an airtight house if its going to have holes (vents) in the walls ??? Are you going to have a fireplace ? A stove ??

Yes and to add to this, if getting a stove and if at subfloor level already, then there should be a central air intake duct thing(very technical I know) piped in at this stage for the stove, as if air tight should be no vents like you mentioned, so stove breathes in through direct connection.

I find it strange to be this stage of a build and your architect not have engaged a BER assessment before picking what A2W system etc to use before going to tender and to builder

teednab-el

knipex wrote: »

You really need to get advice and not from your builder.

1. Get a preliminary BER
2. OK
3. Air-tightness is measured in air-changes per hour. Have you set a required standard in your contract with the builder ? Will it be checked and certified before sign off or are you just planning on taking the builders word that its airtight ? (get it tested dotn take his word)
4. OK
5. This doesn't make sense.. How are you going to have an airtight house if its going to have holes (vents) in the walls ??? Are you going to have a fireplace ? A stove ??

Stove in living room.

BryanF

teednab-el wrote: »

1. No
2. air to water
3. Air tightness to first floor ceilings.
4. Underfloor heating downstairs and upstairs.
5. Vents on walls but subject to change.

Strongly recommend you do the following

1. Seek independent advice and get a provisional BER assessment carried out - if this is part of your arch’s design (TGD L) then ask him why it hasn’t been carried out.
3. Sit with your arch and builder and ask the builder what the premium would be to achieve ‘better than 1ACH’ at this stage (can we assume some form of contract is in place? )
4. Perhaps ask the arch if the the extra cost of ‘3’ could be offset By going to other low temp rads upstairs instead of ufh
5. Negotiate design with arch and install / commissioning of hrv with builder

teednab-el

BryanF wrote: »

Strongly recommend you do the following

1. Seek independent advice and get a provisional BER assessment carried out - if this is part of your arch’s design (TGD L) then ask him why it hasn’t been carried out.
3. Sit with your arch and builder and ask the builder what the premium would be to achieve ‘better than 1ACH’ at this stage (can we assume some form of contract is in place? )
4. Perhaps ask the arch if the the extra cost of ‘3’ could be offset By going to other low temp rads upstairs instead of ufh
5. Negotiate design with arch and install / commissioning of hrv with builder

Thanks for the advice and feedback. I will look into all of the above.

runawaybishop

teednab-el wrote: »

Stove in living room.

Not much point spending money to be airtight and then having a stove that's open - look into getting a room sealed stove.

oppiuy

We decided to go with DCV. We visited a few House with the system installed and they were lovely and warm. Feedback was great and the houses were A3 rated. Also visited house with MHRV and again no issues and feedback was great. Cant remember the BER rating of those but they had been installed longer

knipex

teednab-el wrote:

Stove in living room.

If your house is airtight then you need to pipe in external air for the stove and you will need to purchase an appropriate stove to suit. This needs to be done before the floor goes down.

How did you spec your heat pump without a BER.

You really need to sit down with your architect. If you dont have one you need to get advice... even a preliminary BER will point you in the right direction.

rolling rock

Hi,

We've done retrofit insulation on a 1979 4 bed bungalow 200 sq m and am seeking advice on the best MHRV systems. Also, I'm looking for advice on reputable installers. Could anyone PM if you can help?

Thanks

teednab-el

knipex wrote: »

If your house is airtight then you need to pipe in external air for the stove and you will need to purchase an appropriate stove to suit. This needs to be done before the floor goes down.

Thats complete.

teednab-el

runawaybishop wrote: »

Not much point spending money to be airtight and then having a stove that's open - look into getting a room sealed stove.

Pipe in for that already.