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The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

aoifski

I'd appreciate some advice about lawns and lawn mowers. We have about 1/4 -1/3 an acre of lawn. Top soil was put down when we moved in about 4 years ago, not the best stuff - quite stoney. We raked but did not rotovate it at the time, and then rolled and then sowed a lawn.

It's ok - the surface is a bit rough still and not flat. We have a petrol rotary at the moment and it takes quite a while to cut all this grass. And it grows like wildfire in the spring/summer.

We want to buy new rideon mower and I am all for buying a tractor mower to spin around the lawn in as little time as possible.

My husband has gotten it in his head somehow that he wants this manicured lawn, and wants to buy a petrol powered cylinder mower - the ones used for cricket and golf greens! Believe me our lawn and surface is far from this!

Questions:

To get even surface with manicured lawn would we have to rotovate and completely redo the surface/soil and resow?
Presumably a cylinder mower (self propelled) is totally unsuitable for what we have right now?
Any tractor mower recommendations for a nice cut which will appease my husband?!

Thanks in advance!

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deezell

glic83 wrote: »

Yeah I was just going by the fact that it was a known brand name, haven't come across anyone with the Hyundai mower. How much was the lidl one here a few weeks ago? 200? The 2 mentioned above seem to be the best value for what I'd need , haven't seen any others.

Buy this recognised brand Stiga online for €170 delivered, GGP own brand engine,
https://www.agrieuro.co.uk/stiga-collector-43-push-lawn-mower-100-cc-engine-petrol-lawn-mower-p-10246.html
Or
Sign up for Woodies Newsletter, get 10% of their mower when bought online.
https://www.woodies.ie/sign-up-to-our-newsletter-homepage-header

glic83

my3cents wrote: »

If all you need is a push mower then its a decent machine which if looked after will do a good bit of work. The Briggs engine version is probably the better I suspect the hyundai is just a rebadged cheap chinese engine.

Both prices are a rip off though. Its essentially the same machine as Lidl had here for the same money a month ago. I say its a rip off because Lidl were selling the same machine in the UK for £139 (about €165). I know because I still have one in the back of my car in I bought last Friday in the UK. I've still a previous version that has suffered 4 seasons of very rough use (it even cut an acre a good few times when the ride on was out of action) but decided to get a spare at a decent price while I could.

Edit> Comparing engines it would be hard to choose between then the hyundai one might be slightly more powerful?

Yeah I was just going by the fact that it was a known brand name, haven't come across anyone with the Hyundai mower. How much was the lidl one here a few weeks ago? 200? The 2 mentioned above seem to be the best value for what I'd need , haven't seen any others.

my3cents

glic83 wrote: »

Hey guys just looking on advice between these 2 petrol lawnmowers in woodies.
https://www.woodies.ie/pro-lawn-42cm-139cc-hyundai-push-petrol-lawnmower-1153278?utm_source=google_shopping&&gclid=CjwKCAjwqqrmBRAAEiwAdpDXtBMfr8uOo0zRJxz2hh0G__Z-pLCagqKTBP3y7ny_ViaWLUs5J3kvLBoCmcsQAvD_BwE

And
https://www.woodies.ie/pro-lawn-41cm-125cc-petrol-lawnmower-online-only-offer-1106894
Both are the same price, would I be right in saying the 2nd mower with the Briggs & Stratton engine would be better than the Hyundai engine? I don't have a very big back/front garden but not a fan of electrical lawnmowers and back tends to hold a lot of water at times so have found the petrol mowers better.

If all you need is a push mower then its a decent machine which if looked after will do a good bit of work. The Briggs engine version is probably the better I suspect the hyundai is just a rebadged cheap chinese engine.

Both prices are a rip off though. Its essentially the same machine as Lidl had here for the same money a month ago. I say its a rip off because Lidl were selling the same machine in the UK for £139 (about €165). I know because I still have one in the back of my car in I bought last Friday in the UK. I've still a previous version that has suffered 4 seasons of very rough use (it even cut an acre a good few times when the ride on was out of action) but decided to get a spare at a decent price while I could.

Edit> Comparing engines it would be hard to choose between then the hyundai one might be slightly more powerful?

glic83

Hey guys just looking on advice between these 2 petrol lawnmowers in woodies.
https://www.woodies.ie/pro-lawn-42cm-139cc-hyundai-push-petrol-lawnmower-1153278?utm_source=google_shopping&&gclid=CjwKCAjwqqrmBRAAEiwAdpDXtBMfr8uOo0zRJxz2hh0G__Z-pLCagqKTBP3y7ny_ViaWLUs5J3kvLBoCmcsQAvD_BwE

And
https://www.woodies.ie/pro-lawn-41cm-125cc-petrol-lawnmower-online-only-offer-1106894
Both are the same price, would I be right in saying the 2nd mower with the Briggs & Stratton engine would be better than the Hyundai engine? I don't have a very big back/front garden but not a fan of electrical lawnmowers and back tends to hold a lot of water at times so have found the petrol mowers better.

glic83

Hey guys just looking on advice between these 2 petrol lawnmowers in woodies.
https://www.woodies.ie/pro-lawn-42cm-139cc-hyundai-push-petrol-lawnmower-1153278?utm_source=google_shopping&&gclid=CjwKCAjwqqrmBRAAEiwAdpDXtBMfr8uOo0zRJxz2hh0G__Z-pLCagqKTBP3y7ny_ViaWLUs5J3kvLBoCmcsQAvD_BwE

And
https://www.woodies.ie/pro-lawn-41cm-125cc-petrol-lawnmower-online-only-offer-1106894
Both are the same price, would I be right in saying the 2nd mower with the Briggs & Stratton engine would be better then the Hyundai engine? I don't have a very big back & front but not a fan of electrical lawnmowers and back tends to hold a lot of water at times so have found the petrol mowers better.

amadangomor

deezell wrote: »

Batteries not included

Battery is €35, and charger maybe €20. You might need a second battery, 40V 2.5 A hour battery will deliver maybe 500W for maybe 10 minutes or less, so toud want a very small lawn and cut often to reduce the load. It's only rated to last 30 min just spinning with no load.

Thanks, noticed the extra for battery and charger but was thinking of getting at least one other compatible tool so would be ok with that.

Probably would need 20 mins to do front and back so good info from you there

First cut is usually later than i'd like as lawn is usually waterlogged in winter so can be very long

Might go for the B and Q corded or just go petrol again.

deezell

amadangomor wrote: »

Anyone have any knowledge of the Aldi electric lawnmower on sale this week?

https://www.aldi.ie/ferrex-40v-cordless-lawn-mower-skin/p/097702269775900

Batteries not included

Battery is €35, and charger maybe €20. You might need a second battery, 40V 2.5 A hour battery will deliver maybe 500W for maybe 10 minutes or less, so toud want a very small lawn and cut often to reduce the load. It's only rated to last 30 min just spinning with no load.

amadangomor

Anyone have any knowledge of the Aldi electric lawnmower on sale this week?

https://www.aldi.ie/ferrex-40v-cordless-lawn-mower-skin/p/097702269775900

deezell

ustari wrote: »

On that note, my Iseki SXG15 gets blocked quite a bit. Mostly down to me not tipping the box in time I am guessing.

The reason behind that is I don't get any notification when I need to tip it. This is an old second hand one so not sure, but did these have an alarm/notification bell on release?
Needs a service soon so might have a look at getting that back working also if it did.

Thanks

Parts diagrams here. Your bag type in the first few files, sensor plate and switch arrangement on the base of the bag to measure the weight of grass by the look of it.

http://iseki.ie/manuals/Manuals.html#C:/Users/ANDREW/Desktop/ISEKI%20UK%20Parts%20Manuals/SXG15

deezell

ustari wrote: »

On that note, my Iseki SXG15 gets blocked quite a bit. Mostly down to me not tipping the box in time I am guessing.

The reason behind that is I don't get any notification when I need to tip it. This is an old second hand one so not sure, but did these have an alarm/notification bell on release?
Needs a service soon so might have a look at getting that back working also if it did.

Thanks

The Vikings have a bag full alarm, and it can be set to cut off the mowing blades when it goes off. It's adjustable, it's a small lever that protrudes into the grass catcher. if the Iseki has an alarm, there should be a small lever sensor of some type to detect the building pile of grass.

ustari

On that note, my Iseki SXG15 gets blocked quite a bit. Mostly down to me not tipping the box in time I am guessing.

The reason behind that is I don't get any notification when I need to tip it. This is an old second hand one so not sure, but did these have an alarm/notification bell on release?
Needs a service soon so might have a look at getting that back working also if it did.

Thanks

deezell

NIMAN wrote: »

Not sure if this would be possible.

I also think that mowers made for mulching actually have a different blade to a normal mower, specifically for the purpose.

I could be wrong though;)

Mulch specific mowers have the mulch blades. 3 in 1 mowers might have a compromise blade, perhaps a serrated impeller fin. Most ride on mulch plugs will have some kind of curve or baffle to hopefully direct the grass back over the centre of the blades, so they recycle it a few times before falling through, and also to distribute it evenly over the cut width. A straight blockage, as we all know, will often result in a trail of clumps in the centre, not surprising, as the blockage is often causesd by long damp soft grass. This is equally unsuitable for mulching anyway. Fwiw, I've noticed that my ride on performs as a decent mulcher following a chute blockage in a heavy patch, but only when when mowing through the lighter areas of growth. It clumps when I hit the heavy bit on the next lap, at which point I see the previous lap's clumps, and have to poke out blockage.

Doctors room ghost

fryup wrote: »

can i make a homemade mulching kit for my ride on...i just basically need to block the collection chute?

No you need to change the blades from the normal cutting ones to mulching ones for it to work properly.you can buy mulching kits which include blades and the plug

NIMAN

fryup wrote: »

can i make a homemade mulching kit for my ride on...i just basically need to block the collection chute?

Not sure if this would be possible.

I also think that mowers made for mulching actually have a different blade to a normal mower, specifically for the purpose.

I could be wrong though;)

fryup

can i make a homemade mulching kit for my ride on...i just basically need to block the collection chute?

FannyBadger

Krombopulos Michael wrote: »

Where did you get yours from (when it arrives)

I got it on ebay but can't paste the URL here as I'm too new!

Similar price to the Amazon one, but free delivery from Germany I think.
The delay is not with Germany though - it got to Ireland last week, but DPD sent it to Wexford. I thought this was the point of Eircodes...

deezell

Cormo87 wrote: »

Hi All,

Is there anywhere in Dublin that takes old petrol lawnmowers in when buying a new one?

Thanks.

Mower city in Emmet rd Inchicore for one. If they sell used, then they most likely take trade in. If you're just looking to get rid of a knackered mower, they'll probaly take it anyway. If it's in any way working, you'll sell on Adverts or Donedeal.

Cormo87

Hi All,

Is there anywhere in Dublin that takes old petrol lawnmowers in when buying a new one?

Thanks.

Krombopulos Michael

FannyBadger wrote: »

@ Michael - I have one of those lawnmower lifting jacks on order, I can let you know if it's any use whenever it arrives (Should have been here last week).
You might need to be wary of tipping it to the correct side to make sure oil doesn't leak...

Where did you get yours from (when it arrives)

FannyBadger

Thanks very much Deezell, Doc and Arbee for all the replies and advice on this!

Deezell, that parts list may come in very handy down the line so cheers for that.

@ Michael - I have one of those lawnmower lifting jacks on order, I can let you know if it's any use whenever it arrives (Should have been here last week).
You might need to be wary of tipping it to the correct side to make sure oil doesn't leak...

Doctors room ghost

FannyBadger wrote: »

Does anyone in here have some hints and tips on the maintenance/servicing of a ride-on mower?

I bought a Castelgarden XDC170hd last year, for cutting about an acre of grass. It didn't get a massive amount of use due to a new baby and most of the grass being burnt by the sun!
So far, I haven't done anything much in the line of servicing, meaning it still has the same oil which came when it was delivered. I have also noticed a few rust spots developing on the underside of the deck.

From reading a few other posts, I think I will heed Deezell's advice about painting the underside with a couple of coats of red oxide paint to stop the rust anyway.
Does anyone know if it is tricky to get the deck off a Castelgarden, or should I just get something like a mower jack to prop the deck up so I can get at it without having to drop it off? I had a go at taking it off, but it wasn't co-operating so I left it in case I did more damage than good.

Is it OK to powerwash the deck to get the stubborn grass off, or could this damage the blades/deck?

Should you use the hose connectors to wash the deck after each use? Does this really work, or does this just contribute to the rusting?

Should I change the oil, or would it be OK for one more season?

Is it advisable to get the mower serviced once a year by a dealer/manufacturer, or can you do most of it yourself and bring to a service centre every 2/3 years instead?

Any other hints/tips would be greatly appreciated! I'm hoping to keep this mower going for 10 years at least!

It’s easy take the deck off its 2 bolts and 2 r clips just take a few pictures before you dismantle and mark the threads incase they turn with the deck off because they are used to level the deck.
Then guide the blade belt off the pulley and pull out the deck with belt attached.
Youd have the deck off in 10 minutes.
Turn it upside down outside and power wash it thoroughly both sides and leave it inside to dry for a few days.
A light sand then and paint it.theres plastic covers on the top you can remove them too if you want.
Hammerite is the stuff you want to paint on it.i do paint mine both sides hammerite under and a red steel girder paint outside.
Leave it a week somewhere warm then to cure and refit.
I do this every year end of cutting and sharpen the blades with the grinder and service the engine.oil change oil filter and the little petrol filter on the fuel line.air filter too if it needs one or bang it out and a shot of the airline.

deezell

Krombopulos Michael wrote: »

Are ride on lawnmower lifters any use to allow easy access underneath for maintenance?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/lifter-Lifting-Device-Garden-Tractor/dp/B00OV5JKLK

Won't break the bank, might stop you breaking your arm! Irish version of this is a cut down fence post.

deezell

FannyBadger wrote: »

.....From reading a few other posts, I think I will heed Deezell's advice about painting the underside with a couple of coats of red oxide paint to stop the rust anyway.

Do.

Does anyone know if it is tricky to get the deck off a Castelgarden,

It is tricky, older CGs required removal of the Engine belt pulleys to free the belts. Not sure of the very new models, but yours is an electric clutch non-synchronous blade, should be easy to drop the belt from the clutch. I know it was common on the older mowers to remove the grass box and just stand the mower upright, mad as it seems, on a hard surface it would sit nicely on its rear steel bag hooks, a few bits bit of wood maybe. Took two to lift the front with the back wheels locked/wedged, or lift with a pulley in a garage. Ideal for blade inspection, painting, cleaning. once the fuel was low, oil went to back of the engine, battery sealed type so no leaks. Also for rear drive sprocket, differential, chain work on a manual gearbox drive it was very handy. I found it easier eventually to just drop the deck once you got the hang of it.

Is it OK to powerwash the deck to get the stubborn grass off, or could this damage the blades/deck?

You should be OK, don't point the jet directly at the shaft bearing.

Should you use the hose connectors to wash the deck after each use? Does this really work, or does this just contribute to the rusting?

Jurys out on this. I think it's pointless and messy, unless the grass was mush to begin with.

Should I change the oil, or would it be OK for one more season?

You'll be Ok for this season, but change oil at least next season, it can get moisture in it lying up, but Id say there are mowers out there with the same oil for years. With low use filter should be good for 2 seasons, but cheap as chips to DIY change.

Is it advisable to get the mower serviced once a year by a dealer/manufacturer, or can you do most of it yourself and bring to a service centre every 2/3 years instead?

2/3 Sounds like a plan. Dealer might spot something amiss. He'll advise changing belts even if they look serviceable to you, otherwise you might break one in the first few weeks and moan, "this was just serviced"

Any other hints/tips would be greatly appreciated! I'm hoping to keep this mower going for 10 years at least!

You might find this parts manual useful. Part names French, but pictures and part numbers are the same. Get a pdf translate app something if you like.
https://www.ggpfrance.net/index.php/documents/catalogue-pieces-de-rechanges/2018/castelgarden-autoportees-2018/7441-2t2620273-c16-xdc170hd-2018/file

Krombopulos Michael

Are ride on lawnmower lifters any use to allow easy access underneath for maintenance?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/lifter-Lifting-Device-Garden-Tractor/dp/B00OV5JKLK

Krombopulos Michael

deezell wrote: »

You don't hold it down. When you stop, press it once, release, you have 5 second to select reverse without blade disengagement, or, you can stop, select revese and within a second press and release the button to enable reverse mowing . It works on stop by stop basis, there's no programming mechanism to disable it afaik, though here is a procedure on ignition to disable automatic full bag disengagement, by pressing for five seconds, the reverse mowing button and drive pedal, while the engine is off and ignition is on (page 35). On the bigger 6127ZL there is an indicator on the display that shows when the reverse mowing button mode is selected, and you have the 5s window to engage reverse.

Good to know. Need to read the manual

deezell

Krombopulos Michael wrote: »

So just an update on the new STIHL RT 5112Z.
....At your left foot there is a button to press to keep the blades engaged when going in reverse. I found this a bit hit and miss and it seems like every time you cut in reverse you must press it, not just hold it down all the time.....

You don't hold it down. When you stop, press it once, release, you have 5 second to select reverse without blade disengagement, or, you can stop, select revese and within a second press and release the button to enable reverse mowing . It works on stop by stop basis, there's no programming mechanism to disable it afaik, though here is a procedure on ignition to disable automatic full bag disengagement, by pressing for five seconds, the reverse mowing button and drive pedal, while the engine is off and ignition is on (page 35). On the bigger 6127ZL there is an indicator on the display that shows when the reverse mowing button mode is selected, and you have the 5s window to engage reverse.

Daz_

FannyBadger wrote: »

Does anyone in here have some hints and tips on the maintenance/servicing of a ride-on mower?

I bought a Castelgarden XDC170hd last year, for cutting about an acre of grass. It didn't get a massive amount of use due to a new baby and most of the grass being burnt by the sun!
So far, I haven't done anything much in the line of servicing, meaning it still has the same oil which came when it was delivered. I have also noticed a few rust spots developing on the underside of the deck.

From reading a few other posts, I think I will heed Deezell's advice about painting the underside with a couple of coats of red oxide paint to stop the rust anyway.
Does anyone know if it is tricky to get the deck off a Castelgarden, or should I just get something like a mower jack to prop the deck up so I can get at it without having to drop it off? I had a go at taking it off, but it wasn't co-operating so I left it in case I did more damage than good.

Is it OK to powerwash the deck to get the stubborn grass off, or could this damage the blades/deck?

Should you use the hose connectors to wash the deck after each use? Does this really work, or does this just contribute to the rusting?

Should I change the oil, or would it be OK for one more season?

Is it advisable to get the mower serviced once a year by a dealer/manufacturer, or can you do most of it yourself and bring to a service centre every 2/3 years instead?

Any other hints/tips would be greatly appreciated! I'm hoping to keep this mower going for 10 years at least!

Great questions and look forward to the replies as is a similar position with mine

ArrBee

I'm no expert and part of the reason for this is post is to follow the thread

One tip I have found is using an air compressor for cleaning if you have one. Especially the fabric of the grass collector.

FannyBadger

Does anyone in here have some hints and tips on the maintenance/servicing of a ride-on mower?

I bought a Castelgarden XDC170hd last year, for cutting about an acre of grass. It didn't get a massive amount of use due to a new baby and most of the grass being burnt by the sun!
So far, I haven't done anything much in the line of servicing, meaning it still has the same oil which came when it was delivered. I have also noticed a few rust spots developing on the underside of the deck.

From reading a few other posts, I think I will heed Deezell's advice about painting the underside with a couple of coats of red oxide paint to stop the rust anyway.
Does anyone know if it is tricky to get the deck off a Castelgarden, or should I just get something like a mower jack to prop the deck up so I can get at it without having to drop it off? I had a go at taking it off, but it wasn't co-operating so I left it in case I did more damage than good.

Is it OK to powerwash the deck to get the stubborn grass off, or could this damage the blades/deck?

Should you use the hose connectors to wash the deck after each use? Does this really work, or does this just contribute to the rusting?

Should I change the oil, or would it be OK for one more season?

Is it advisable to get the mower serviced once a year by a dealer/manufacturer, or can you do most of it yourself and bring to a service centre every 2/3 years instead?

Any other hints/tips would be greatly appreciated! I'm hoping to keep this mower going for 10 years at least!

Krombopulos Michael

Krombopulos Michael wrote: »

So, bought myself a STIHL RT 5112Z. Decided after lots of research (mostly the legend that is deezell) that I needed a twin cylinder mower for mowing on slopes that can bag and mulch.

Got 300euro off with my local dealer including oil and safety gear thrown in to the deal, so im happy out. Thanks to all on the thread for the info, looking forward to taking delivery now.

So just an update on the new STIHL RT 5112Z.

Glad I went for a twin cylinder model as the slope on my lawn was a little steeper than I thought in places, and I can hear a little strain on the motor going up while cutting (Not steep enough to tip over)

Very easy to drive and operate and seat is comfy, and the controls layout are good.

My only negatives are

1) The box sliding handle to tip out the grass came out in my hand away from the box. It uses a plastic retaining clip to keep in place and it popped off and was lost in a sea of grass clippings, however a simple bolt and nut has that sorted out immediately.

2) At your left foot there is a button to press to keep the blades engaged when going in reverse. I found this a bit hit and miss and it seems like every time you cut in reverse you must press it, not just hold it down all the time.

Apart from this, the engine is strong and it was great to use. After the first cut, I have inserted the mulch plug and been out for the second cut a few days later which was a breeze.

Thanks again for all the advice from this thread.