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Child Item

Chain Saw Chat

greysides

Bonnie and Clyde, toast and jam, night and day. Some things just go together and if you're involved in Forestry you've probably an interest in chainsaws.

So whether you are a Stihl, Husqvarna, Jonsered, Efco, Tanaka or other brand owner this thread can be where owners or buyers can discuss and debate anything about saws from oils to chains, down to PPE.

If you have a chainsaw related query that you feel is too small for its own thread or you want to let people know of good deals, hints/advice or places to buy parts then post it here.

(Original concept courtesy of 'Mozart'.)

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niallam

JayZeus wrote: »

You have a 550 and 365, so you know the 236 doesn’t deserve a Husqvarna decal. It’s cheap and nasty electrolux junk, no better than any €100 chinese saw.

As something to lend to someone you don’t like, it’s perfect. Why would anyone with a 550xp want to use a 236?

As Dougal would say, “That’s mad, Ted’.

I use it as a ‘rescue’ saw only. If I ever do get the 550 pinched it will get me out of a hole, I don’t bring the 365 too many places with me as it’s not the most nimble for tight spots

Also if I ever suspect there’s barbed wire grown into a tree I use the 236... see, every saw has its use

[Deleted User]

niallam wrote: »

I use it as a ‘rescue’ saw only. If I ever do get the 550 pinched it will get me out of a hole, I don’t bring the 365 too many places with me as it’s not the most nimble for tight spots
Also if I ever suspect there’s barbed wire grown into a tree I use the 236... see, every saw has its use

You make some good points

wayoutwest wrote: »

Cheers JayZeus. I had a use for it the other day - clearing up a garden that was littered with fallen Ash limbs.Had the 16" bar +.325 chain that it came with- was smiling at the aggressive lively power it had + lighter than the 365 (by a kilo or two)) - total pleasure to use and not a problem with starting it (hot or cold). It stands me at €150 ,which is €100 less than a new 236, that I was going to buy.
I think you are right about keeping 16"" bar and .325 - it felt like a nice light, fast setup + good reach without being unwieldy. The bar is in great condition , but the chain is halfway - what make/type of chain would you recommend i get for limbing/small firewood ?

---wayoutwest (not Tim !)

Sorry. Always getting you two mixed up.

Oregon 20BPX (1.3mm/.050") or 21BPX (1.5mm/.058") is what I've used for years now on the smaller husky saws (<65-70cc). Usually use 15, 16 and 18" bars depending on what saw and what I'm at. I know there's probably 'better' choices but I've always found it easy to get, fairly durable and easy to sharpen with a few licks and back to work again.

I have a few 13" 1.3mm GB sprocket nose bars bought for a good price for small firewood work and my husky dealer suggested I try the X-Cut SP33G (I had to look that up!) and I've been very pleased with it. Only in 1.3mm size at the moment but plenty of length options. Made in Sweden at a newly built Husqvarna facility, designed and developed in house. It's good to see that kind of thing being done these days but the thing that struck me about it as a chain is that it's very well finished and seems to hold an edge about as well as Stihl RSC which is what I'd put on the bigger saws. Most of what I'm cutting with it is 6-10" diameter birch crotches and bends and some pine and spruce tops that have been dragged in the dirt on their way out, now needing to be cut to an easy to handle size to feed into a Hakki Pilke saw/splitter. Plenty of sand and grit and the bars and chains are holding up well. That keep me happy to pass on the recommendation if you can get that chain locally yourself.

Anyway, small bar and .325's the right stuff. I should have said, that saw with a small sprocket nose bar and good oiling will easily spin a chain on an 8 tooth drive sprocket, if you wanted it and you're up to working at pace safely.

wayoutwest

JayZeus wrote: »

You make some good points

Sorry. Always getting you two mixed up.

Oregon 20BPX (1.3mm/.050") or 21BPX (1.5mm/.058") is what I've used for years now on the smaller husky saws (<65-70cc). Usually use 15, 16 and 18" bars depending on what saw and what I'm at. I know there's probably 'better' choices but I've always found it easy to get, fairly durable and easy to sharpen with a few licks and back to work again.

I have a few 13" 1.3mm GB sprocket nose bars bought for a good price for small firewood work and my husky dealer suggested I try the X-Cut SP33G (I had to look that up!) and I've been very pleased with it. Only in 1.3mm size at the moment but plenty of length options. Made in Sweden at a newly built Husqvarna facility, designed and developed in house. It's good to see that kind of thing being done these days but the thing that struck me about it as a chain is that it's very well finished and seems to hold an edge about as well as Stihl RSC which is what I'd put on the bigger saws. Most of what I'm cutting with it is 6-10" diameter birch crotches and bends and some pine and spruce tops that have been dragged in the dirt on their way out, now needing to be cut to an easy to handle size to feed into a Hakki Pilke saw/splitter. Plenty of sand and grit and the bars and chains are holding up well. That keep me happy to pass on the recommendation if you can get that chain locally yourself.

Anyway, small bar and .325's the right stuff. I should have said, that saw with a small sprocket nose bar and good oiling will easily spin a chain on an 8 tooth drive sprocket, if you wanted it and you're up to working at pace safely.

Great info JayZeus -thanks........ although I didn't understand the last bit about small sprocket nose bar/ 8 tooth drive.

wayoutwest

JayZeus wrote: »

Perfect for holding a door open or for those other occasions when you don’t need a working chainsaw.

Junk saw. Try to find a used 340, 345 or 350 if money is tight.

After googling lots of reviews on the 236 - it seems like its a cheaply made, plastic saw but works fine for occasional use and for the money, its ok.......kind of top of range junk.

JayZeus - you might have been a little harsh on the 236......now if you want a PROPER doorstop, then one of these little beauty's might suit ya.

Attachment not found.

1000 of them seized by UK customs, describing them as 'very dangerous'. Apart from being an offensive colour, the list of faults included - chainbrake not working under correct pressure and kill switch taking 5 seconds to cut the engine.

blue5000

blue5000 wrote: »

Does anyone know where to get a coil for an early 90's Jonsered. I am confused by ebay's offerings with a wide range of prices from 7 to 40 odd quid. Is a 7.99 coil from Hong kong worth a gamble?

JayZeus wrote: »

No. On the gamble.

What’s the part number or saw model and serial number? I might have what you need.

Thanks Neks and JayZeus, got it fixed locally after

Sami23

Looking for advice please.
Where would be the best online shop to buy some chainsaw PPE especially the Helmet at good value.
TIA

invicta

You can currently get the pants, helmet and gloves in the one box for €139 in any Husqvarna dealers-all ‘genuine’ husqvarna gear

niallam

Sami23 wrote: »

Looking for advice please.
Where would be the best online shop to buy some chainsaw PPE especially the Helmet at good value.
TIA

Look at Englebert Strauss in Germany.
I’m 6’8” and off the shelf stuff never fits, they literally do their clothes by the length and width and they’re great value and very good fitting stuff.

Melodeon

niallam wrote: »

I’m 6’8” and off the shelf stuff never fits...

I'm reminded of a forestry event I was at a good few years ago where the organisers had a draw for a pair of chainsaw trousers.
The roundiest man I've ever seen won!
He appeared to be about 5 foot tall and about the same around the midriff.
The guy from the PPE importer/agency was last seen frantically searching through their catalogue to see if they did chainsaw trousers in 60" waist/24" inseam

On a more serious note, for PPE to be effective, it must be used.
PPE that is uncomfortable, awkward, poorly-fitting, or a hindrance is much more likely to be unused or discarded.
Trousers that strangle the nether regions when you crouch down or bend over, or a helmet that gives you a headache or that constantly falls off or that you can't see out of properly, or boots that pinch your heel or that make a painful crease across your toes when you walk, are all a waste of time and money no matter how expensive or well regarded the brand name.

My brother used to be trying to buy chainsaw boots online, and eventually had to give in and go to a proper bricks-n-mortar shop where he could try them on and do a walkabout test.
He used to be half crippled after an hour or two, and now doesn't know himself with properly fitting boots.

TLDR: Get PPE that fits and is comfortable for YOU.

00wyk

I've recently moved back to Ireland after a stint stateside. I used to work an estate in Waterford, but have now moved in with my wife's family in Bray. Does anyone know if someone can use an experienced sawman/groundsman in North Wicklow?
Thanks in advance!

[Deleted User]

00wyk wrote: »

I've recently moved back to Ireland after a stint stateside. I used to work an estate in Waterford, but have now moved in with my wife's family in Bray. Does anyone know if someone can use an experienced sawman/groundsman in North Wicklow?
Thanks in advance!

Welcome back and best of luck on the job hunt.

Chestvalve

00wyk wrote: »

I've recently moved back to Ireland after a stint stateside. I used to work an estate in Waterford, but have now moved in with my wife's family in Bray. Does anyone know if someone can use an experienced sawman/groundsman in North Wicklow?
Thanks in advance!

What tickets have you?

00wyk

Chestvalve wrote: »

What tickets have you?

Just the 30 and 31 for certs. Most of my experience is logging stateside and on a large estate in Waterford. I'm too old for climbing. Mostly good for felling and groundwork.

have2flushtwice

When I'm cutting with my saw, something is going wrong with the cuts. If I cut into the trunk at 90 degrees to the ground, it sometimes curves a bit. Then when I go to do the second cut to form the wedge that falls out, the cut curves again. And then the two cuts don't meet and sometimes the saw gets tight as the bar is straight but the cut isn't.
Any idea what's going wrong? I'm not new to using a saw but this has happened more and more lately.
Thanks.

timfromtang

Hi flush twice,
I'd say its likely a bar and chain problem.
Especially on smaller saws if all the bits are not right she wont cut right.

To cure the problem you can try these....

Dress the bar making sure the top edges of the chain groove are square and flat across (bar dressing tool, or draw file).

Check the chain groove carefully, is it wide anywhere, is it the correct width, is is still deep enough? Check the nose sprocket carefully too. Is the bar perfectly straight and untwisted (test by laying the bar on a flat surface and testing for rocking when you press the corners and edges, test with the bar laying on both sides).

Sharpen the chain PERFECTLY making sure all teeth are the same length and angle, that the correct size file is used, and that the rakers depth and shape is correct.

Reinstall chain and bar and test, remove the chain and turn the bar over and test again.
To test cut two biscuits from the end of a log of similar size to the timber you encountered the problem with, one downwards, the other upwards using the top of the bar, cut at full revs.

Did your saw cut straight on both tests?
Did your saw still cut crooked on one or both tests?

crooked on both -> look at chain and groove on bar again carefully
Crooked on one -> look at both edges of the bar and find the difference which is causing the problem.

hope this helps
tim

stock>

Tim from tang has put up a excellent post but if you are having difficulty edging the chain I'd suggest you get a new one and try it if the same issues are there then it's a bar issue if not your chain is incorrectly sharpened.
Are you free filing? or are you using a machine?
If you are free hand get one of these..........................

https://www.pferd.com/int-en/products/files/sharpening-files/chain-saw-sharpeners-chain-sharp/chain-sharp-cs-x-chain-saw-sharpeners/pos-packaging/pos-packaging/cs-x-3-2/

timfromtang

oops that reminds me.......... another thing to inspect for is wear, especially uneven wear on the underside of the chain, both where it rubs on the bar and the condition of the drive links.......
if in doubt replace the chain,

if replacing the chain examine the sprocket, typically you'd fit a new one of those about every five chains or so,
when she's tickety boo shell cut like a charm.
tim

893bet

have2flushtwice wrote: »

When I'm cutting with my saw, something is going wrong with the cuts. If I cut into the trunk at 90 degrees to the ground, it sometimes curves a bit. Then when I go to do the second cut to form the wedge that falls out, the cut curves again. And then the two cuts don't meet and sometimes the saw gets tight as the bar is straight but the cut isn't.
Any idea what's going wrong? I'm not new to using a saw but this has happened more and more lately.
Thanks.

Bar groove is wide I would bet. Most likely as a result of using a blunt chain and leaning on it over time.

I have concluded it’s best to let a professional edge the saw. Then be careful not to cut a nail, wire or earth in error.

The saw should eat through the timber on the weight of itself.

have2flushtwice

Last time I got my chain filed professionally it was 8 quid. Unreal difference. He gave me a few tips and I bought two files, 2euro each. Put them into my Stihl file and tried but couldn't match his sharpness.

robclay26

am looking at a Husqvarna 445 with 18” bar, anybody got any reviews on them? They any good ?
Cheers

stock>

If it has the spannerless chain adjustment leave it where it is, chain will keep loosening at least it did on the one I had..............................................

robclay26

stock> wrote: »

If it has the spannerless chain adjustment leave it where it is, chain will keep loosening at least it did on the one I had..............................................

Interesting, one I’m looking at has a screw driver tensioning

stock>

So has it got a single nut to hold the bar...............

pburns

stock> wrote: »

If it has the spannerless chain adjustment leave it where it is, chain will keep loosening at least it did on the one I had..............................................

I haven't experienced that too bad so far. However they can sometimes feel a bit brittle when you want to remove the gear cover & a bit of brute force required.

I'm a bit of an amateur tho in comparison to most on this thread...

Heavy handed

Have a old Stihl 020av top handler saw coming to me at the end of the week. Needs a few little bits but there’s a part in after that’s long been discontinued by Stihl and can’t find one online either and it’s the black handle grip. I’ll try get a pic up later if I can. Does anyone have an old 020 lying about for parts.

Thepillowman

Heavy handed wrote: »

Have a old Stihl 020av top handler saw coming to me at the end of the week. Needs a few little bits but there’s a part in after that’s long been discontinued by Stihl and can’t find one online either and it’s the black handle grip. I’ll try get a pic up later if I can. Does anyone have an old 020 lying about for parts.

Check out huztl.net good for bits and pieces .

Heavy handed

Thepillowman wrote: »

Check out huztl.net good for bits and pieces .

Just had a look thought that website. Unfortunately the only part they carry to suit my saw is a fuel pick up line. Looks like the little 020av is a bit on the old side for most parts

Nekarsulm

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Handle-and-Trigger-Assembly-for-a-Stihl-Chainsaw-020AV-1114-791-0301/183749580014?epid=1603513550&hash=item2ac85414ee:g:5u8AAOSwM7lcmoik

Or how about

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STIHL-STHIL-020-AV-SUPER-TOP-HANDLE-CHAINSAW/283451654613?hash=item41ff0901d5:g:rOoAAOSwRRJcs4AZ

TeaBagMania

edit: Neka beat me to it

dont forget to check ebay north america too

Heavy handed

Nekarsulm wrote: »

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Handle-and-Trigger-Assembly-for-a-Stihl-Chainsaw-020AV-1114-791-0301/183749580014?epid=1603513550&hash=item2ac85414ee:g:5u8AAOSwM7lcmoik

Or how about

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STIHL-STHIL-020-AV-SUPER-TOP-HANDLE-CHAINSAW/283451654613?hash=item41ff0901d5:g:rOoAAOSwRRJcs4AZ

If bids stay reasonably low on that I’ll be snapping it up. Part I’m looking for is below
https://espacemotoculture.fr/WebRoot/Store9/Shops/19041ddc-f2fd-4d6e-8bfc-207e40f883ac/MediaGallery/STIHL_020_-_020av.pdf
Page 28 and it’s part 18