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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

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magicbastarder

Eamonnator wrote: »

To be honest, I've never given them much thought, always assumed they were mould

does your bike smell mouldy?

Eamonnator

My 4 year old matt black Canyon has similar marks on the top tube. To be honest, I've never given them much thought, always assumed they were mould marks.

Wishbone Ash

North of 32 wrote: »

There are 2 vertical lines on the carbon fork of my brand new bike (both sides, one worse than the other). It definitely came from the factory like this as I've only done 30km on it, no falls, bangs, scratches etc.

When you run your finger over it there's no noticeable crease or bump. If you closed your eyes you wouldn't know it was there.

Anyone have experience with this?

I had a black carbon bike and it had lots of those type of markings. Doesn't seem to be as noticeable on lighter coloured bikes.

cletus

North of 32 wrote: »

There are 2 vertical lines on the carbon fork of my brand new bike (both sides, one worse than the other). It definitely came from the factory like this as I've only done 30km on it, no falls, bangs, scratches etc.

When you run your finger over it there's no noticeable crease or bump. If you closed your eyes you wouldn't know it was there.

Anyone have experience with this?

Possibly mould release marks?

North of 32

There are 2 vertical lines on the carbon fork of my brand new bike (both sides, one worse than the other). It definitely came from the factory like this as I've only done 30km on it, no falls, bangs, scratches etc.

When you run your finger over it there's no noticeable crease or bump. If you closed your eyes you wouldn't know it was there.

Anyone have experience with this?

magicbastarder

had something snapped on it?

statto25

statto25 wrote: »

magicbastarder wrote: »

have you taken the chain off for the purposes of testing?

No I havent removed it. I have taken off the derailleur and cleaned and lubed it again

So turns out the derailleur was shot. New derailleur and a new cable along with a lighter pocket means I'm back in action for the Fondo tomorrow.

Gasco

magicbastarder wrote: »

are you sure the small ring is not worn?

Sorry, should have said, new chain, rings and cassette.

magicbastarder

are you sure the small ring is not worn?

Gasco

Hi
Just moved to Ultegra 11 speed after many happy years on the 10 speed version.
Have used Wipperman chains for a number of years with no issue, so decided to stick with what I know. Have an Absolute Black small ring that is just not meshing correctly with the chain, the chain works ok with the big ring.
Overall the chain is quite noisy on this set up, if the limit screws are not perfect on the rear der there is poor meshing there also.
Anyone using this combo - experience similar issues with this set up??

thanks

G'co

magicbastarder

many bikes would be sold with a 50/34 and 11-28 - giving a low gear of 1.21; and that would not be particularly low, some people would go to 30 or 32 on the back, if they bike was specifically going to be used a lot in the mountains.
a low gear of 39 to 25 (as on the bike above) is 1.52, which is quite a difference.

[Deleted User]

The highest and lowest will typically be the same regardless of number, just the gaps between gears bigger the less you have.

That merida spec you posted strikes me as odd for a claris group set. Those are normally for entry level bikes and you'd expect to see something like standard compact or sub-compact 50-43 and 28 or 30 - 11 on the back.

silverharp

magicbastarder wrote: »

that's a fairly tough lowest gear. not a bike you'd be taking up the mountains regularly.

it would need to get me up that hill outside Enniskerry to Glencree at least :pac: , ok good to know, so safer to stick to 21ish to be assured of an easy low gear

magicbastarder

that's a fairly tough lowest gear. not a bike you'd be taking up the mountains regularly.

silverharp

not that more gears are better, but if a bike has less than 21 say will the lowest tend to be fairly similar across most ranges of bikes, for example below (Merida)?

Chainset FSA Tempo 53-39 teeth

Derailleurs Shimano Claris, 16 speed

Cassette Sunrace, 8 speed, 12-25 teeth

statto25

magicbastarder wrote: »

have you taken the chain off for the purposes of testing?

No I havent removed it. I have taken off the derailleur and cleaned and lubed it again

magicbastarder

have you taken the chain off for the purposes of testing?

statto25

No offence taken! No it Def didn't and its not so long I did the indexing and it was grand. I've had no knocks or spills since

Type 17

Don’t be offended, you’d be stunned what people don’t realise that they don’t know about bikes ðŸ˜ðŸ˜‰

If it’s not the limit screws, did the derailleur take a knock recently?

statto25

Type 17 wrote: »

I presume that you’re pedalling while you push the derailleur by hand?

Yep I'm not that daft!

Type 17

I presume that you’re pedalling while you push the derailleur by hand?

statto25

magicbastarder wrote: »

check the limit screws on it? one might be screwed in too far.

I did some tweaking on that but I always thought they were for minute adjustments. I'm talking another 5 gears higher that I am unable to move to.

magicbastarder

check the limit screws on it? one might be screwed in too far.

statto25

Ive just started to do some simple maintenance and can index etc but I am having a real headscratcher with my rear derailleur. With the cable detatched I cannot move the derailleur by hand to the highest gear. It sits in the middle of the cassette and wont budge. Hanger isn't bent and the derailleur has no more than 3000k on it so shouldn't be damaged or worn. I can move to the lowest gear by hand without issue.
Any ideas that doesn't involve the LBS as Ive a 122km spin on Saturdayand I'm running out of time to get it in to them. I'm determined to fix it myself anyway!

Type 17

No difference in cage-length, but when you get the replacements, note that there are two different pulleys in the pack - the tension pulley goes at the bottom, the one marked guide or Centron-G goes at the top. They may also have direction arrows, as the teeth have profiles for best shifting, once they've been fitted correctly.

CramCycle

Getting new Jockey wheels for my rear derailleur. Is there a difference between ones for SS and GS cages (Shimano 5800). Not sure why there would be but just wondering.

Alek

An incorrectly routed chain would produce a horrible grinding noise straight away. Been there done that

Plastik

Re the chain, is the chain routed correctly through the jockey wheels? How are the jockey wheel teeth profiles, is the chain slipping off to the side of one and jamming in the cage?

You mentioned previously that the wheel didn't lock and now it has, that's odd alright.

brownian

No...they are oldish wheels (Swisside Gotthards), but are perfect, no wobble or any weird stuff.

Will put on different wheels and see if that fixes the issue. Thanks, Alek!

Alek

Weird. No further ideas I'm afraid... Long shot - a broken axle? Is there a lateral play in the wheel?