Tweaky wrote: » Have gone with the Drayton Wiser kit after reading people’s views here. Seems to be great value for money especially if you want to add TRVs later. 10% off on amazon at the moment as well.
loyatemu wrote: » let us know how you get on with it, I'm interested in the same system. Will you be installing yourself?
bonnieprince wrote: » Cannot see the 10% offer, do you have a link? The Tado v3+ starter kit is down to £149 from £199. Seems good value and can add a thermostat for another £99.
AstraMonti wrote: » Has anyone tested both Netatmo and Tado? Does anyone know if in both systems you can create zones to turn on/off the radiators? (assuming every radiator has a valve) For example during the day I don't want to heat the bedrooms, just kitchen and living room. Can I do this with both systems? Also, I don't want the system to run automatically, rather than I want it to start at 5pm for kitchen/lving room, and 7pm for bedrooms until it reaches 20C. Again, can both systems do that? If it matters the heating is oil boiler.
getoffthepot wrote: » I have Netatmo and added radiator valves before christmas so can control each room where I have them by temperature and time intervals. 'For example during the day I don't want to heat the bedrooms, just kitchen and living room' - yes it can do that with radiator valves in each room. I have oil heating and basically had one zone before I added the valves. Each valve is basically a new zone. Issue is the main Netatmo thermostat is the dominant controller (could be another term but best I can think of). If the main thermostat has reached it target temp then the boiler won't come on to heat the other rooms with the valves if they are below the target temp. so basically you can have the valve(s) off so the room with the valve doesn't heat or set to a target temp that wont be exceeded when the boiler does come on. The main thermostat is the driver and if it falls below the target temp then the boiler comes on and it will heat the 'no radiator valve' rooms and the valve ones but they may not reach their target temp before the main thermostat area! I haven't really given it a lot of thought as to maybe switching the valves with the main thermostat (which is portable) to other rooms so that the issue above is minimized.
loyatemu wrote: » presumably you need to have the main thermostat in the coldest room for that setup, but ideally you'd have TRVs on all the radiators.
deezell wrote: » Better to fit a cylinder stat in series with the HW live to the boiler, then the boiler will turn off until the cylinder stat cools, and HW temperature can be set independent of boiler max temperature.The only reason for having timed HW at all is to save a few quid by not having a fully heated cylinder of HW 24/7, dissipating heat.
garo wrote: » Had EI surveyor come in to asses and he quoted 1684 for installing the base pack, hot water kit, motorized valve,12 TRVs and a single zone remote thermostat. With the grant/credits of 1030 I doubt buying hardware for ~1200 and getting someone to install would come out cheaper.
garo wrote: » @deezell: Does the Evohome hot water kit allow one to do that? Am I right in saying the best set up would be HW control through stats connected in series via the BD91 relay and CH though an OpenTherm bridge (thus bypassing OpenTherm for HW) with system configured for HW priority?
garo wrote: » No the net price is 1680 after the grants. I was told I don't need to be an EI customer for the grants and energy credits. You are right about not needing zones if I have a smart TRV on every rad but they are throwing in that zone thermostat as a freebie. I might use it in a room where the rad is not ideally located for temp sensing. Or maybe I should enquire if they will take that off the price if I don't take it.
loyatemu wrote: » 1680 after the grants :eek: I was looking at Honeywell for my house, figured I need 10 valves and the controller, which is about €900 from Amazon, plus I'd need TRV bodies as my rads don't currently have them (about €15 each). Even with install (say it took a full day for a plumber to do all the TRVs) it's hard to see how it could come to that much after the €700 grant, never mind the supposed EI discount. If you already have TRVs on your rads you'd be better off installing it yourself and forgetting about the grant.
deezell wrote: » Yes and no. If boiler is actuated by simple relay contacts, with say one set for CH and another for HW, then these can be combined in a number of ways depending on your configuration. You say you have S plan no zones, which is a bit of a contradiction as S plan implies at least one heating zone independent of HW. More likely you have a single pumped/valved CH zone, with gravity or pumped to the HW cylinder. You say your install quote includes a motorised valve, which I assume is for the CH, but may perhaps be for the HW, as CH has its own smart TRVs. Whichever it is now or will be, a cylinder stat can be used to call the boiler directly or via it's motorised valve relay in tandem with a call from the thermostat/Evohome controller relay for CH. As your existing system and new system does not have a combi boiler with HW on demand, the Evohome will have to be able to generate 2 boiler call voltages, to call the boiler either for HW and open the HW motorised valve, or to call the boiler for CH, opening the TRVS, and/or the CH pump/valve. I read that it is possible to bind 2 RD 91 relays to the Evohome, one for CH and one for HW motorised valves which is a true S plan system. The valves relays in turn would call the boiler. If you wish to use OpenTherm signalling to the boiler, I would imagine the HW setup would be different, in that the controller would need some HW feedback for when to cut the boiler, as the cylinder stat is no longer in a loop to the boiler call for heat. To this end I see that Evohome have a wireless cylinder stat available to report cylinder temp back to the controller, and this would be required if you intend firing the boiler via OT, and independently for HW and CH. The firing characteristics are different in each case, as the boiler will modulatesl at lower temperatures when closely controlling CH, but will raise its temperature when only supplying HW, whither this is direct from a combi, or heated in a valved, pumped or gravity fed cylinder. Without knowing your current or proposed layouts, it's hard to make exact recommendations, but to answer your original query, it's yes if you intend calling the boiler via a simple relay. If OT is involved, use the Evohome cylinder stat, and use this in either case if you want programmable HW time and temperature control. As regards Solar PV panels, they're for generating electricity, and won't have any bearing on your system unless you intend to use the power generated to heat an immersion element perhaps, which would require a lot of panels and sunlight.
legend99 wrote: » Hi Apologies for asking - possibly has been asked before but 78 pages is quite a lot to review! I live in a 3-story house build circa 2002. We have a gas boiler which drives the rads and hot water. The house has three thermostats (one in hallway, one in first floor landing and one in second floor landing). There is then a cylinder thermostat on the cylinder. Each of those Stats controls a Myson valve. I (hopefully not foolishly!) pulled the trigger last night and bought tado kit with the 30% off on Amazon. I bought the v3+ kit and another 2 Tado Statso so that I have 3 Stats to replace my 3 wall Stats. I also bought the extension kit. Looking at the set-up I wonder could anyone now help in terms of how I will approach set-up. All that I have to control the current set up is the Apt Imm24 timer clock. No zone control, no 5/2 control nothing. Either on or off via the timer. I had a quick look at the wiring in it and there appears to be 2 live brown wires coming in, 2 neutral blue wires and one black (I assume some kind of control) wire. Would anyone have any tips on this? Is it likely that the pairs of wires are one for all the ch and one for the hw? Is there anyway to tell which is which? Even if it turns out that the hw and ch are separate wires then could anyone tell me what next? I assume someone else must have the same (what I think is a less than ideal!) set-up as myself...? Tks in advance for any help
legend99 wrote: » Hi Apologies for asking - possibly has been asked before but 78 pages is quite a lot to review! I live in a 3-story house build circa 2002. We have a gas boiler which drives the rads and hot water. The house has three thermostats (one in hallway, one in first floor landing and one in second floor landing). There is then a cylinder thermostat on the cylinder........All that I have to control the current set up is the Apt Imm24 timer clock. No zone control, no 5/2 control nothing. Either on or off via the timer. I had a quick look at the wiring in it and there appears to be 2 live brown wires coming in, 2 neutral blue wires and one black.
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