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Labour Saving and General Guntering

emaherx

How about using this thread to show off our engineering skills (or lack of!)
A lot of us have home made or improvised labour saving tools / implements lying around. Similar to stuff in Farmers Journal labour saving compettions. (without the prize money:p).

Maybe we could use this thread to share interesting ideas and discuss improvements.

I don't have any pictures at the moment of my own but I will take some at the weekend if not before.

My own projects include:
Quick hitch for front loader (fairly rough but works), designed to fit Trima implements onto MF loader.
Adapter to fit bale lifter onto front loader.
Various other loader attachments spikes etc.

Current project is a wrapped bale transporter being built out of remains of an old Muck Spreader. (only just started, currently just an axle and draw bar).

Their maybe other stuff around too, I'll have to have a look.

So what are peoples opinions, is this a good idea for a thread?

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Say my name

emaherx wrote: »

No... And depends on tractor, propper hydraulic oil is no good for lubrication of transmission or cooling of brakes. Tractors which use the same oil for hydraulics/transmission/oil emersed brakes do not use hydraulic oil they use universal oil some even can use same oil in engine.

To the Farrier although your probably OK, 3 to 4 liters is a good bit, if it was me I'd change it to be sure, your oil will be a good bit lighter than it's meant to be.

But the oil for the hydraulics goes in that little screw off cap on the back end of a mf 4255.
Correct?

Edit: I 'll answer myself. That's correct SMN. :rolleyes:

emaherx

Say my name wrote: »

But the oil for the hydraulics goes in that little screw off cap on the back end of a mf 4255.
Correct?

Don't know where the filler is on 4255 but I'm fairly sure it takes super universal oil 15w30 or 10w30 which is not the same as the hydraulic oil that the Farrier put in.

Say my name

emaherx wrote: »

Don't know where the filler is on 4255 but I'm fairly sure it takes super universal oil 15w30 or 10w30 which is not the same as the hydraulic oil that the Farrier put in.

It's just below the cab above the back end.

I always put hydraulic oil in the back end of the 4270 I had and the thicker engine oil for the front all right.
Maybe I did wrong?
I couldn't tell you the viscosity but my mechanics were adamant that it take different oils for each end.
But I put universal oil in both ends of a Ford 7610 alright.

emaherx

Say my name wrote: »

It's just below the cab above the back end.

I always put hydraulic oil in the back end of the 4270 I had and the thicker engine oil for the front all right.
Maybe I did wrong?
I couldn't tell you the viscosity but my mechanics were adamant that it take different oils for each end.
But I put universal oil in both ends of a Ford 7610 alright.

Well maybe the Farrier can relax a bit. He's mixed about 3 liters hydraulic oil into 47 liters of universal.

But I think you were using the wrong oil. The wrong oil is unlikely to cause catastrophic failure in the hydraulic system but more likely shorten the life of pumps, seals and brakes (by how much is anyone's guess)

If your reservoir is essentially your back axle/gearbox then it's more likely super universal oil.

Say my name

emaherx wrote: »

Well maybe the Farrier can relax a bit. He's mixed about 3 liters hydraulic oil into 47 liters of universal.

But I think you were using the wrong oil. The wrong oil is unlikely to cause catastrophic failure in the hydraulic system but more likely shorten the life of pumps, seals and brakes (by how much is anyone's guess)

If your reservoir is essentially your back axle/gearbox then it's more likely super universal oil.

10w - 30 for the back and 15w - 40 for the front.
That was for the mf here.

How does that sound?

What number or viscosity would you call hydraulic oil?

patsy_mccabe

Ya, that's it in a nutshell. Wrong oil better than no oil, but better to put in the right stuff.

emaherx

Say my name wrote: »

10w - 30 for the back and 15w - 40 for the front.
That was for the mf here.

How does that sound?

What number or viscosity would you call hydraulic oil?

That sounds like universal oil, it's your engine that needs the "different" oil.

patsy_mccabe

Hydraulic oils.
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/iso-grade-oil-d_1207.html

Say my name

emaherx wrote: »

That sounds like universal oil, it's your engine that needs the "different" oil.

What's transmission oil then?
I had one (empty) drum of that 15w 40 and the rest of the (empty) drums were just labelled transmission oil on the container for the front.
And what's hydraulic oil?
You said the hydraulic oil he used wasn't 10w 30.

Sorry for all the questions.

emaherx

Say my name wrote: »

What's transmission oil then?
I had one (empty) drum of that 15w 40 and the rest of the (empty) drums were just labelled transmission oil on the container for the front.
And what's hydraulic oil?
You said the hydraulic oil he used wasn't 10w 30.

Sorry for all the questions.

Hydraulic oil is normally marked with something like H or ISO followed by a number. H32 for example is probably the closest thing to 10w30 in weight however it is missing additives required for brakes, clutch packs and for clinging to the gears in a gearbox as they rotate.

H46 is probably the most common Hydraulic oil as it is used in most diggers and many tractors.

Hydraulic oil is meant for hydraulic systems only.
Transmission oil is meant for gearboxes only.
And universal oil is meant for both but the particular hydraulic / transmission system should specify it.

patsy_mccabe

I worked with a lot of industrial hydraulics and it was all 'ISO 46' we used. Same as H46, I'd imagine.

Figerty

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

I worked with a lot of industrial hydraulics and it was all 'ISO 46' we used. Same as H46, I'd imagine.

From what I know. Lower viscosity oils are used in colder climater (or winters)
Higher viscosity (thicker) oils are used in hotter climates as the viscosity drops when the temperature rises.

ISO 46 suits Ireland

emaherx

Figerty wrote: »

From what I know. Lower viscosity oils are used in colder climater (or winters)
Higher viscosity (thicker) oils are used in hotter climates as the viscosity drops when the temperature rises.

ISO 46 suits Ireland

Don't know if that's the only consideration concerning viscosity but many machine manufacturers will recommend a heavier or lighter oil depending on temperature and/or altitude same is true of engine oils.

9935452

emaherx wrote: »

Say my name wrote: »

What's transmission oil then?
I had one (empty) drum of that 15w 40 and the rest of the (empty) drums were just labelled transmission oil on the container for the front.
And what's hydraulic oil?
You said the hydraulic oil he used wasn't 10w 30.

Sorry for all the questions.

Hydraulic oil is normally marked with something like H or ISO followed by a number. H32 for example is probably the closest thing to 10w30 in weight however it is missing additives required for brakes, clutch packs and for clinging to the gears in a gearbox as they rotate.

H46 is probably the most common Hydraulic oil as it is used in most diggers and many tractors.

Hydraulic oil is meant for hydraulic systems only.
Transmission oil is meant for gearboxes only.
And universal oil is meant for both but the particular hydraulic / transmission system should specify it.

Just to confuse things more.
You also have transmission fluid . ATF.

You have super universal oil too.
Some companies spec it for use in engines too
https://www.agridirect.ie/product/super-universal-oil-15w30

TheFarrier

Thanks for all the advise

emaherx

9935452 wrote: »

Just to confuse things more.
You also have transmission fluid . ATF.

You have super universal oil too.
Some companies spec it for use in engines too
https://www.agridirect.ie/product/super-universal-oil-15w30

Well to confuse things more ATF is often used in steering systems.

Jeff2

Hidrolic oil is tin.

It's tin so it flows fast like brake fluid.

Why would you risk it.

visatorro

I find if your not sure go to your main dealer. Tell them what you need. It may be dearer but it's cheaper than a new engine or back end. Same with filters. Seen lads putting the wrong micron filter on and starving pumps.

whelan2

visatorro wrote: »

I find if your not sure go to your main dealer. Tell them what you need. It may be dearer but it's cheaper than a new engine or back end. Same with filters. Seen lads putting the wrong micron filter on and starving pumps.

You can get spurious filters off main dealer too.

mayo_lad

The auld lad was complaining that their wasn't enough light behind the new tractor for cutting silage during the night.

So I had to whip up this extra light for the shear grab,
It mounts on the old holder for the valve chest the light is powered by the 7 pin tractor light

mengele

mayo_lad wrote: »

The auld lad was complaining that their wasn't enough light behind the new tractor for cutting silage during the night.

So I had to whip up this extra light for the shear grab,
It mounts on the old holder for the valve chest the light is powered by the 7 pin tractor light

Easy way out of it and good thinking.

Muckit

blue5000 wrote: »

You can buy anti-squawk additive and put in about a half litre if the brakes start shuddering/squealing.

Twas a common problem with Fiats

Muckit

mayo_lad wrote: »

The auld lad was complaining that their wasn't enough light behind the new tractor for cutting silage during the night.

So I had to whip up this extra light for the shear grab,
It mounts on the old holder for the valve chest the light is powered by the 7 pin tractor light

I did it on mine a few years ago and posted here too

wired it through 7pin plug and all!

wrangler

I'm replacing the shutters over the outside troughs on the cattle shed, making 15 by 4ft frame and sheeting it and hanging it over the trough.
Anyway my problem is that the paint is taking days to dry, I didn't use primer on the first two shutters and thought that was the problem, but I've used primer on the next three and it dried grand, I painted with green oxide yesterday morning and this evening I still couldn't handle it..... any ideas

Nekarsulm

Too cold for the solvents to evaporate?
Could you stand them up in a small shed and point a space heater at them?

enricoh

If you put 10-15% hardener into ithe paint it'll dry in no time. U'll get it in any paint shop or mitor factors.
Just put it into the paint u'll use not the 20l drum.

wrangler

enricoh wrote: »

If you put 10-15% hardener into ithe paint it'll dry in no time. U'll get it in any paint shop or mitor factors.
Just put it into the paint u'll use not the 20l drum.

Alas, the steel is already painted, I may just wait for the spring temperature rise, no space heater here either

enricoh

wrangler wrote: »

Alas, the steel is already painted, I may just wait for the spring temperature rise, no space heater here either

Ah yeah this time of the year takes ages to dry, it'll get there though!

Nekarsulm

wrangler wrote: »

Alas, the steel is already painted, I may just wait for the spring temperature rise, no space heater here either

Any old pallets, bushes and bale wrap you ned to burn?
Get a good bonfure going and it throws off great heat......

ganmo

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Any old pallets, bushes and bale wrap you ned to burn?
Get a good bonfure going and it throws off great heat......

Then it's not burning waste! it's creating heat