listermint wrote: » Im a big fan of the latest tech of Insulated plasterboard foam tbh. Its quick and holds just as strong as dab. Its taken off on the continent but still not prolific here. For the normal board id use that, for the insulated stuff you will need that and also mushroom fittings. For the electrical stuff you will need to get someone qualified to remove the fixings and then you can cut out the holes before placing the board. I cut out holes after placing the board with a pad saw but its not for everyone.
Calahonda52 wrote: » You need to pay attention to the fire regs her with the foam.... Also some metal mushroom fixings needed for same reason
Buford T Justice wrote: » There's a foam to use as a replacement for dot and dab you mean? Electrics aren't a problem, I've a brother who's an electrician. Just wondering how the dry lining boxes work with 30mm of insulation behind the slab.
listermint wrote: » I don't believe there is regulations preventing the adhesion of plasterboard using plasterboarding foam in 2 story residential brick dwellings. Do you know of any ?
Calahonda52 wrote: » I re-read your post and I am not sure where you are using the foam? Is it with plain pb against an existing wall, with ceiling slab already in place, just to clean it up?
listermint wrote: » Correct
dathi wrote: » https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4osTCKdq3v4 one of these types of products ?
listermint wrote: » Plenty Evo Stik plasterboard adhesive is one I've used several times easy to work with goes off quick.
rivermisty wrote: » The Evo Stick product looks very easy to use. Would there be any issue with using that to fix Insulated plasterboard? (about 80mm thick) to a masonry wall? Would you add mechanical fixings too if you were using the Evo Stik?
douglashyde wrote: » Funny enough, I just done my bathroom using EvoStick to fix 50mm insulated plasterboard to masonry wall. It's not enough itself as you'll be left holding the board to the wall. So what I ended up doing was using the EvoStick and steel mushroom head fixings, over kill but did the job.
alan1963 wrote: » Hi I work as a plasterer in the Uk,when using Drywall adhesive it is possible to straighten up the walls by putting on bigger or smaller dots on the walls as appropriate, their by creating a near perfect wall, flat plumb etc. This new product where you just run a 10mm bead on the board means you obviously have to"follow the wall",if the block work is 20mm out of plumb then the plastering will also be 20mm out of plumb for example. for this reason for me it is Drywall adhesive every time.
5T3PH3N wrote: » This^ We put a couple of metal insulation fixings in if they’re needed and then thermal caps on them.
alan1963 wrote: » Hi The idea behind the metal insulation fixings is IIUC is in a case of fire, the insulation on the back of the board can melt and cause the boards to fall of the walls, hampering the firemen in their rescue work. the metal fixings keep the boards stood upright against the walls.
listermint wrote: » This is also not the case And it's not 10mm. Its expanding foam not a bead. It can be adjusted to be true and not with the wall contour. So no that's not accurate description of how it works at all.
alan1963 wrote: » OK Plasterers forum in uk, somebody posted this question back in 2012. Anyone used this foam adhesive much for fixing plasterboard on block Walls ect. Usually comes in tube and conected to an applicator gun. Pink grip do 1 as do insta stik. The latter actualy does one now where u don't need the gun. So does anyone use this instead of mixing up the dry wall and what are you thoughts... Any good?? 1st answer no! i like to do it the plasterers way! youll be asking next if we buy Aunt bessies:RpS_scared: 2nd answer .It's crap mate. You can't tamp it with your straight edge and it keeps expanding for a while so getting joints level without physically standing there holding it is almost impossible. Only good thing about it is that you can stick to painted surfaces and stick foil backed boards. 3rd answer its the worst thing ever ! a builder gave me some to try, cant level it, wont take a nail on the corners for a bead, you have to time it perfect as if you push the board to early it squeezes out and to late it doesnt stick!!!
Still waters wrote: » What happens if the wall is off square, or some old walls could be 2 to 3 inches off plum, I've used the foam and it comes nowhere near to the adhesive for professionals looking to do a proper job, the foam maybe ok for diyers looking to stick a couple of plain slabs onto a flat wall but forget about it in a job that requires a good quality finish
listermint wrote: » Hey let's stick it some edge cases of walls 3 inches of square and see what comes back... Try harder. I'd suggest you look at the title of this forum...
listermint wrote: » I've never once see tradesmen's cotton on to new products switching from anything they've used cheaply for decades. And a plasterer's forum... So what ? There's a market for these products and they work exactly as described you may not like that. I don't know why but sure look.... I don't care.
alan1963 wrote: » I Have worked at plastering for a long,long time I have seen many changes, as I remember it if an improvement is developed it is taken up, accepted universally almost instantly. some examples; Scrim tape, when I first started we used cotton scrim for joints in plasterboard,as soon as we were given self adhesive fibre tape we never used the cotton stuff again this was late 80's early 90's Drywall screws, when I first started we plaster boarded using galvanized clout-head nails, no cordless drills,often some nail heads would pop because difficult to get nails tight enough, as soon as half decent cordlesses came out most,all plasterers started screwing boards,no more popped heads. drywall adhesive its self, before about year 2000 we always 2 coat plastered masonry walls,no other way, always been done that way,when we first were taught dot and dab we took to it straight away ,very rarely now ever do 2 coat I accept there is a market for this foam adhesive stuff and if you want to use it then work away but to claim it is as good as or even better than dry wall adhesive, no way. I am a big believer in the dry wall adhesive, if it is done right the board is stuck for good,if after say 24 hours or more you have to remove the board for whatever reason, there is no being able to reuse the board, the biggest piece of board you are left with is about 6 inch square,the dots are so well stuck to the concrete blocks you chisel the face of the block away to clean it off,cannot imagine that being the case with foam adhesive.
Still waters wrote: » Try harder? I know it's a diy forum but that doesn't mean you should promote a sub standard product, if anything you should be encouraging people to do work that they will be happy with, there's plenty videos on YouTube that a diyer could follow regards dotting and dabbing, and do a job correctly rather than be messing with an inferior product
listermint wrote: » Its not sub standard but well done for showing my previous post of ignorance on product knowledge. Kudos
