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Detailing chat

Hi I've been thinking it'd be nice to have a thread where simple questions that people don't want to create a thread for, could go. Or any chat related to detailing.

I've a question. If I've put a wax on, then a sealant. Then after a few weeks or w/e I'm thinking the shine isn't what it was. (After washing obviously) Can I apply wax on top of whatever sealant and wax is left from the first time, or do I have to remove the remaining sealant + wax first?

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JustLen

https://www.aldi.ie/car-polisher/p/010847253266500

Any opinions on this?

I assume it's a rotary?

billybonkers

Uh oh, spilt some soft drinks on the front seats. 50/50 leather/cloth VW seats.

What should I use to remove the staining? The seats are black.

Duff

vectra wrote: »

Megs 105 and 205 have been around with a while and are still going well, so I would use them.
Remember, Start with lowest cut/pad and work up until you find the best combo to suit.

Picked up some Megs compound and polish earlier along with a clay bar and quick detailer but couldn't decide on a wax as the place I was in only had turtle wax as an actual wax, everything else was spray wax which I already have some of. Any recommendations for a good, hard wax that will last a few months? Read good things about collinite 845 but it costs as much to post it here as it does to buy!

Thanks.

vectra

Duff wrote: »

Any recommendations on a rubbing compound and polish? I was thinking of the Megs 105 and 205.

Megs 105 and 205 have been around with a while and are still going well, so I would use them.
Remember, Start with lowest cut/pad and work up until you find the best combo to suit.

Duff

vectra wrote: »

As said above.
Try polishing first.
This wet sanding seems to be the latest craze "just because"

If it were my I would try with the lesser of 2 evils first.
ie
start with the least cut and work up.

Any recommendations on a rubbing compound and polish? I was thinking of the Megs 105 and 205.

vectra

As said above.
Try polishing first.
This wet sanding seems to be the latest craze "just because"

If it were my I would try with the lesser of 2 evils first.
ie
start with the least cut and work up.

Duff

I'd planned on just trying to polish it out, but the general consensus on the AutoDetailing sub-reddit was that I'd be better off using a fine 2000 grit or similar wet sand and then polishing after I posted a pic of the oxidisation.

[Deleted User]

You don't need to use sandpaper to remove oxidation. A polish will do the same job.

Duff

Has anyone any experience with Meguiars 105 and 205 cutting and finishing pastes? I need to 2000 grit wet sand my bonnet to remove some oxidisation was was going to use this to restore the paint after? Any other recommendations for a cutting compound and polish if not?

EPAndlee

Anyone used Autoglym Polar Seal yet? Picked up a bottle of it this evening. €24 for a litre, said its worth a shot before spending €60 on a litre of CarPro Hydro2

Duff

ronnie3585 wrote: »

Reggae reggae sauce?

Not spicy enough.

Cheers, lads. It was the Glare stuff I was thinking off. Was driving me mad :pac:

Reggae reggae sauce?

Carpro Reload?

Gtechniq C2V3 or QD?

Glare polish maybe?

I don't think that was it, but I've looked at a few Youtube reviews of it, and that looks decent too. I'll get that if the name doesn't come to me. Cheers.

opinionated3

Duff wrote: »

Hey guys,

I remember reading here a year or so ago about some brand of spray on wax people were using that buffed off quickly and gave a nice , lasting shine and was handy to use when in a rush/ not doing a full detail. I can't for the life of me find the name of it again though, any chance anyone knows what I'm talking about?

Sonax brilliant shine detailer maybe???

Duff

Hey guys,

I remember reading here a year or so ago about some brand of spray on wax people were using that buffed off quickly and gave a nice , lasting shine and was handy to use when in a rush/ not doing a full detail. I can't for the life of me find the name of it again though, any chance anyone knows what I'm talking about?

acri

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

Your options are:
...

vectra wrote: »

Option one above is
well suggested.
...

That did the job nicely! It's not perfect, but it is a damn sight better than what it was. Got a few complements from passers-by!

I see above you mentioned that the colder it is, the harder it is to buff off. It was about 5°C yesterday. Needless to say, I skipped shoulder work today.

slave1

They may be my future friends once my current friends get consumed:)

[Deleted User]

I found that on colder days wax gets very bitty and doesn't buff off all that easily. Better idea is to use a spray and buff sealant for now until the weather gets warmer. Plus the fact that dew comes down early enough and the moisture in the air it can take a lot longer for it to haze and becomes a nightmare to try and buff if you leave it too late.

Products like CarPro Hydro2 Lite, Gtechniq C2V3, Gtechniq QD, Bilt Hamber Auto QD etc. are your friends in cold weather.

slave1

Lads, between the hose ban and putting my back out I haven't touched the car since early last year and it's Spring complete detail/wax etc.
I'm itching to get out on any kind of mild day but at what temperature would I need it to be for the wax (Collinite) to work it's way in properly?

[Deleted User]

It's possible that the brake dust has actually become part of the paint due to being on so long. Only option there is a refurb.

Foxhole Norman

Korrosol will work, but it would take too long. I'd recommend an acid based wheel cleaner, followed by a thorough clean with a pH Neutral cleaner to remove any traces of the acid. Acid is generally bad to use around any parts of the car but it is good to have in some instances, this would be one.

Murt102

Lads what is the best wheel cleaner to use for an alloy that is caked with brake dust?

I have a decent wheel cleaner that I find brilliant (cant remember the name of it now) but it isn’t doing anything for the alloy.

Also got a rough cleaning pad from the kitchen (one of those yellow ones with the green back, couldn’t give a sh1te about scratching the alloys they are old ones anyways) but could only get the bare minimum off.

Also gave it a dose of Korrosol and no joy.

Any other suggestions?

vectra

Option one above is well suggested.
Go lightly though
Remember
the more you apply the more you need to buff off.

acri

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

Your options are:
...

Thank you kindly, sir. Time to wear the elbows out.

[Deleted User]

Your options are:

- Apply a thin coat of the same wax on top of the area, a small section at a time and buff when it's ready. This should remove the stain.

- Use a product like CarPro Eraser or Gtechniq Panel Wipe and buff with an MF cloth. Keep doing this until the stain is gone. These products are made to break down wax, grease etc on a car's paint.

- Sell the car and forget about it

- Set the car alight

Personally I'd try one of the first 2 as the others are a bit OTT :pac:

acri

Hi all. Let me preface this by saying I am a moron. Plain and simple.

A few days ago I decided to wax the car with Simoniz Original Wax. Thought it might be a good idea before the poor weather really kicked in. However, I applied a coat to far too large of an area and I simply can't buff it out. So now the rear third of my car is covered in a thin swirly coat of hardened wax, save for a small patch on the boot. So much shame.

So, is there a simple solution to removing the wax, or am I at the mercy of a professional? Cheers.

vectra

EPAndlee wrote: »

Autopia is the only place I've seen that sells Soft99

Autopia
Blok51 in the north with exceptionally fast delivery service.

Fusso light topped with a coat of Kiwami Extreme gloss.