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Labour Saving and General Guntering

emaherx

How about using this thread to show off our engineering skills (or lack of!)
A lot of us have home made or improvised labour saving tools / implements lying around. Similar to stuff in Farmers Journal labour saving compettions. (without the prize money:p).

Maybe we could use this thread to share interesting ideas and discuss improvements.

I don't have any pictures at the moment of my own but I will take some at the weekend if not before.

My own projects include:
Quick hitch for front loader (fairly rough but works), designed to fit Trima implements onto MF loader.
Adapter to fit bale lifter onto front loader.
Various other loader attachments spikes etc.

Current project is a wrapped bale transporter being built out of remains of an old Muck Spreader. (only just started, currently just an axle and draw bar).

Their maybe other stuff around too, I'll have to have a look.

So what are peoples opinions, is this a good idea for a thread?

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Reggie.

MickeyShtyles wrote: »

And MuckIt gets away with it again!

To be fair what do ya expect from a pig only a grunt

patsy_mccabe

Aravo wrote: »

Anyone make a rear weight block for loader work. Any tips appreciated.

I mad one from a concrete barrel and a nine hole bar. Posted about it here before, if you search for it.
I can drop and pick it up with out getting off the tractor seat.

Here ya go.
https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=108036413

wrangler

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

I mad one from a concrete barrel and a nine hole bar. Posted about it here before, if you search for it.

Here ya go.
https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=108036413

Thats a great job, I made one for the two wheel drive crystal here and put an ordinary three point linkage on it. It worked alright on the crystal as it had telescopic lower links but was a right pain to put on anything else, the nine hole bar is a great idea

Reggie.

Right. Pics of the block below. It's dimensions are roughly 19"×23"×36" which gives ya somewhere in the region of .5 to .75 of a ton depending on the concrete mix.

I made it by making a box out of plywood. Screw the 4 sides together and put on 3 rachet straps for support. Made two slots to slide a 9 hole bar through it. Then weld bits of rebar or scrap iron inside the box to give the concrete support.

I welded some box iron straight up from the 9 hole bar and welded the top eyes to that for the toplink. Weld rebar or scrap iron off this so the weight block can support itself.

It took roughly 6 mixers of concrete to fill the box. Let the concrete mix well in the mixer before you put it in as you only get one shot at it. When you put in each mixerfull make sure to tap it down well so no air pockets or gaps are formed weakening it. Tighten the sachet straps as you fill it for support.

When you get to the top it's worth adding a bevel as when you lift the weight angle of the toplink can hit the weights edge nearest the tractor.
When finished leave the box a week before removing the straps, screws and plywood sides. I then left it another 2 weeks to cure just to be safe.

Remember where ever you do this the ground has to be level underneath and it doesnt want be moved for 3 to 4 weeks. A corner of a shed would be ideal away from the elements.

zetecescort

Sorry Reggie, didn't mean to come across as an attack on you.

Anyway here's our effort. An old plough headstock put into an old galvanise attic water tank an a feq bags of cement

Muckit

Reggie. wrote: »

To be fair what do ya expect from a pig only a grunt

Oink oink

wrangler

Reggie. wrote: »

Right. Pics of the block below. It's dimensions are roughly 19"×23"×36" which gives ya somewhere in the region of .5 to .75 of a ton depending on the concrete mix.

I made it by making a box out of plywood. Screw the 4 sides together and put on 3 rachet straps for support. Made two slots to slide a 9 hole bar through it. Then weld bits of rebar or scrap iron inside the box to give the concrete support.

I welded some box iron straight up from the 9 hole bar and welded the top eyes to that for the toplink. Weld rebar or scrap iron off this so the weight block can support itself.

It took roughly 6 mixers of concrete to fill the box. Let the concrete mix well in the mixer before you put it in as you only get one shot at it. When you put in each mixerfull make sure to tap it down well so no air pockets or gaps are formed weakening it. Tighten the sachet straps as you fill it for support.

When you get to the top it's worth adding a bevel as when you lift the weight angle of the toplink can hit the weights edge nearest the tractor.
When finished leave the box a week before removing the straps, screws and plywood sides. I then left it another 2 weeks to cure just to be safe.

Remember where ever you do this the ground has to be level underneath and it doesnt want be moved for 3 to 4 weeks. A corner of a shed would be ideal away from the elements.

It would be more effective if it was further back from the tractor, it's very close to the tractor if it's a counter weight. mine was a two wheel drive tractor so I was trying to lift weight off the front axle, which it did, it lifted the front wheels if the loader was empty

ganmo

wrangler wrote: »

It would be more effective if it was further back from the tractor, it's very close to the tractor if it's a counter weight. mine was a two wheel drive tractor so I was trying to lift weight off the front axle, which it did, it lifted the front wheels if the loader was empty

If it's further back you'd have to be more conscious of it when manouvering around yards, its a balance

emaherx

ganmo wrote: »

If it's further back you'd have to be more conscious of it when manouvering around yards, its a balance

Also a counterweight which leaves the front of the tractor too light is just as dangerous.

Reggie.

ganmo wrote: »

If it's further back you'd have to be more conscious of it when manouvering around yards, its a balance

Exactly. I made one before that that was further back and was too sever on the tractor plus I was hitting everything with it.

Nekarsulm

Good idea to use a commercially produced 9 hole drawbar.
It should fit on a set of front linkage arms as well.

Reggie.

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Good idea to use a commercially produced 9 hole drawbar.
It should fit on a set of front linkage arms as well.

True but I've a custom front weight coming

Nekarsulm

Reggie. wrote: »

True but I've a custom front weight coming

I bet it'll look like something from Transformers, all angles and probably with built-in LED's!

gctest50

Guntherable idea :

wrangler

Reggie. wrote: »

True but I've a custom front weight coming

No doubt it'll be what all the young lads are into around here :cool:

https://www.agriland.ie/farming-news/tractor-bumper-is-here-midlands-dealer-pushing-ahead-with-novel-device/

Reggie.

Nekarsulm wrote: »

I bet it'll look like something from Transformers, all angles and probably with built-in LED's!

Reggie.

wrangler wrote: »

No doubt it'll be what all the young lads are into around here :cool:

https://www.agriland.ie/farming-news/tractor-bumper-is-here-midlands-dealer-pushing-ahead-with-novel-device/

No not that thing

Reggie.

gctest50 wrote: »

Guntherable idea :

I'll just use the loader

renandstimpy

Way to clean of steel used and way to clean of a workshop to be getting a spot on this thread :=) :=).

SuperTortoise

Need to get one of those headtorches, do you prefer re-chargable of batteries?
And recommended brands?

mayota

SuperTortoise wrote: »

Need to get one of those headtorches, do you prefer re-chargable of batteries?
And recommended brands?

Ledlenser H7R.2 got one for Christmas about €60. Very impressed.

foxy farmer

mayota wrote: »

Ledlenser H7R.2 got one for Christmas about €60. Very impressed.

+1. Bought the same here. Haven't given it any great use yet but plenty light, good range and a few handy features.

timple23

https://www.lidl.ie/en/special-offers.htm?articleId=15401

This any good for trying to learn to weld or is it junk?

Say my name

timple23 wrote: »

https://www.lidl.ie/en/special-offers.htm?articleId=15401

This any good for trying to learn to weld or is it junk?

Junk.

I had one of them from Lidl/Aldi. The rollers didn't work properly and the wire kept getting stuck in the cable.

Get a stick welder if you want to learn and as Patsy says here a good current and the thickest cables possible if using an extension lead.

MickeyShtyles

There’s AdBlue in Aldi this week. €5.95 for 6litres.

SuperTortoise

timple23 wrote: »

https://www.lidl.ie/en/special-offers.htm?articleId=15401

This any good for trying to learn to weld or is it junk?

Junk.

Buy a cheap stick welder and burn a box of rods, you'll learn more in that time than you will in years of trying to weld using that junk.

have2flushtwice

Where will I find a bit of zinc?!

I saw a video on YouTube where a lad zinc plated a part. He used washing soda, a 1.5v battery and a jar of water with a dash of vinegar.
He put the mix into a jar of water, connect one end of the battery to the part to be zinc coated and the other to the zinc bar.
The process took about 20 minutes and the result was superb.

ganmo

have2flushtwice wrote: »

Where will I find a bit of zinc?!

I saw a video on YouTube where a lad zinc plated a part. He used washing soda, a 1.5v battery and a jar of water with a dash of vinegar.
He put the mix into a jar of water, connect one end of the battery to the part to be zinc coated and the other to the zinc bar.
The process took about 20 minutes and the result was superb.

Try copper plating it easier to find waste bits of copper

have2flushtwice

ganmo wrote: »

Try copper plating it easier to find waste bits of copper

Same method?

ganmo

have2flushtwice wrote: »

Same method?

Yup lots bluestone in the water and a piece of copper attached to the battery can't remember if it's the + or -