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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

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comanche_cor

Bottom bracket has started to squeak on the daily commute bike - Giant Defy. The bike was parked up in the garage for a week while I was away with work - was silent up till then. Is this a case of simply removing the bottom bracket and greasing up?

Not sure why it has started - bike was serviced 6 months ago (with bottom bracket removed). I don't feel any signs of wear, anything I should be checking? It is possible that it got damp and rusted - I thought that the bottom bracket was a sealed unit though?

dahat

I have a Look pedal, the chromo axle type that feels rough so decided to try service it yesterday.

All went as per YouTube but when put back together with the washers etc in place it is till rough, almost like the inner bearings habe no grease maybe???

One thing though when the pedal is reassembled without the washers the pedal is as normal, no roughness etc.

Any ideas? I'm no mechanic of any description so doing this is like a near adventure for me!!!

Thud

The bearings could be damaged or you may be over tightening, are they sealed or loose?

dahat

Thud wrote: »

The bearings could be damaged or you may be over tightening, are they sealed or loose?

Sealed bearings, they felt as rough before taking the axle out.

saccades

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

I thought what I meant was quite obvious - i.e that the chain seems to require changing more frequently than before. It has only done 1,000kms since I last changed it.

I'd prefer not to have it snap during a ride or when out of the saddle. Not a pleasant experience, hence the reason I change it when the chain checker indicates that it requires changing. Perhaps I'm being over cautious.

Sorry, it was to clarify how do you know it is no longer fit for purpose? Which you answered in your next line or so.

I think you are being too precious, you do not need to change the chain regularly to save the expensively ramped cassette and chain rings, because they are on geared bikes.

A SS chain is way stronger than a geared chain as it doesn't have to be built to be able to move up and down the gears. If it mates up to the sprocket and ring who cares?

All the power is directed along the strongest length so long as your chain line is correct so there is no slip there is no snapping.

I've had 7 years on my mtb before I swapped as I wanted a black 32t instead of the grey 30t ring. Not because the chain had gone.

The pompino did 23k commuting to work before I sold it to get a more practical gravel bike. The bloke who bought it off me 5 years ago still rides it as is on his commute.

Paul_Mc1988

dahat wrote:

Sealed bearings, they felt as rough before taking the axle out.

Moisture can sometimes penetrate the seal if it has moved slightly but its unlikely. Is it possible to buy a new bearing. If they are cheap it might be worth a try.

mloc123

Odd one today... Chain jumped off the chainring when I shifted gears on the rear.

Crankset is a 9 speed double but with no front derailleur (running as a 1x), I noticed afterwards that the chain slaps a little on shifting gear... enough to jump off I guess.

New chain, properly sized. Dunno how to avoid the same happening again short of running a derailleur on the front that I won't use.

dahat

Paul_Mc1988 wrote: »

Moisture can sometimes penetrate the seal if it has moved slightly but its unlikely. Is it possible to buy a new bearing. If they are cheap it might be worth a try.

I think I'd have to buy a new axle, it's a spare set so no mad urgency to get it. I might see can I get some grease further into the bearing tomorrow.

Wishbone Ash

dahat wrote: »

I think I'd have to buy a new axle, it's a spare set so no mad urgency to get it. I might see can I get some grease further into the bearing tomorrow.

In my experience. Look pedals can fail dramatically once they lose their smoothness. It has happened to me on 2 occasions while out on a ride (on one of those occasions, I had to cycle 25k home with one leg

). I now just change them when the smoothness goes.

dahat

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

In my experience. Look pedals can fail dramatically once they lose their smoothness. It has happened to me on 2 occasions while out on a ride (on one of those occasions, I had to cycle 25k home with one leg ). I now just change them when the smoothness goes.

After some Googling that seems to be the case. A new pair of axels would be €45 or so which wouldn't be the worst case senario.

Wishbone Ash

dahat wrote: »

After some Googling that seems to be the case. A new pair of axels would be €45 or so which wouldn't be the worst case senario.

Incidentally for me, the left one always seems to go before the right. I'm not sure why, but possibly because I always unclip on the left at junctions, lights etc.

c.p.w.g.w

Can anyone recommend something for each of the following;

1-Grease/Lube for pedals & bolts
2-Chain Lube
3-Degreaser for cleaning drivetrain

Cheers in advance

CrowdedHouse

For Me:

1 Park Tool Polylube

2 Muc off Dry Ceramic (note I do not intentionally ride in the rain)

3 Halfords BikeHut citrus degreaser

I'm sure there will be different suggestion but I use those.

magicbastarder

i find the 'no more dirty bike' stuff you sometimes see in dealz is just fine for cleaning the chain.

2011

CrowdedHouse wrote: »

3 Halfords BikeHut citrus degreaser

+1
I find it surprisingly good and it is cheap.

darconio

Don't wait for a black friday deal to change your brake pads...

CrowdedHouse

brake

Type 17

darconio wrote: »

Don't wait for a black Friday deal to change your brake pads...

Given the uneven wear between the two pads, you should check whether or not one of the pistons in your calliper is seized...

darconio

Type 17 wrote: »

Given the uneven wear between the two pads, you should check whether or not one of the pistons in your calliper is seized...

I followed this guide to clean it up

It looks like I had a "lazy" seal (on top of the damage the "lazy" owner did to the rest of the brake system)

Type 17

Good job, the Park Tool channel is one of the best on YouTube for bike maintenance.

As you fit the new pads, etc, ensure that both of the pads/pistons do actually move in and out when you pull the lever (ie: that you have actually fixed the lazy piston/seal).

silverharp

a basic cleaning question, is it ok to use a power washer on a bike? its an older bike, not worried about resale value but at the same time if it would cause unnecessary wear and tear or rust anywhere i dont want to accelerate the bike's demise

Type 17

Don't do it - old or new bike, you'll force water into the bearing races, contaminating the grease, making it lose its lubrication properties and rusting the bearings.

Here's a six month-old rear hub that I had to service, when it began to rumble. It's very common...

CramCycle

Not sure on the need for a power washer, why not just use a regular garden hose pipe?

silverharp

CramCycle wrote: »

Not sure on the need for a power washer, why not just use a regular garden hose pipe?

i was hoping to give the bike a clean and oil up inside, i just wanted to get the grime off quickly outside, a normal hose might work but wouldnt clean the chain of grimy oil?

CramCycle

silverharp wrote: »

i was hoping to give the bike a clean and oil up inside, i just wanted to get the grime off quickly outside, a normal hose might work but wouldnt clean the chain of grimy oil?

A power washer might not either, or you'd do damage with the proximity you have to get to it. Wipe with a rag, then use degreaser, hose down, wipe dry and oil up.

Wishbone Ash

silverharp wrote: »

..., a normal hose might work but wouldnt clean the chain of grimy oil?

A pressure washer won't clean an oily chain unless you have one of the industrial boiling water/steam ones.

Just take the chain off and clean it separately and don't go near the bike with anything that will force water onto it.

EDit

Rather than buying a new bike, I’ve decided to upgrade the groupset on my existing one (along with installing some new wheels and other finishing kit). Quite a few bargains online at the moment, but I wouldnt have the experience to change the components myself.

Question is...are most LBS open to having someone roll up with a new groupset, handlebars, etc. that they bought online and they do the actual work (for a fee of course) or do they tend to get pissy if you don’t buy the components through them?

Type 17

They need to be fine with it, otherwise they’ll go the way of the dodo… but give your chosen one a call first, to guage their attitude.

Get them to check what you’ve brought, and confirm that everything will fit your bike, and whether you might need minor parts (cables, spacers, etc), and that they have them in stock, to avoid unnecessary delays.

LollipopJimmy

The guys I use are good with that if You want details. Based in Dublin

magicbastarder

EDit wrote: »

Rather than buying a new bike, I’ve decided to upgrade the groupset on my existing one (along with installing some new wheels and other finishing kit). Quite a few bargains online at the moment, but I wouldnt have the experience to change the components myself.

i bought a frame from a boardsie, and a groupset in my LBS; the BB was already installed in the frame, but speaking as someone who had never installed a groupset before, it was surprisingly easy. most fiddly bit was cables, and brake/gear adjustment.