Tomjim wrote: » How was the ground tilled?
Reggie. wrote: » Owner ploughed it. Powerharrowed and then rolled it.
Tomjim wrote: » Would you get away with using a one pass system such as your system Reggie
Say my name wrote: » It might be hard to make out the tracks from sowing yesterday. Scene today from finishing up rolling. Then spread fert after.
CloughCasey1 wrote: » 9 acres done this evening. Roll and fert tomorro.
Say my name wrote: » Finally got something of value from these fields this year. I got 5 bales/acre of silage from them today. I didn't expect that. I didn't fertilize them really for a cut but now I've a clean canvas for another cut. 5 bales/acre silage and they got 5t of basalt/acre when it was tilled. A bale for every ton.
GrasstoMilk wrote: » How long was it growing?
Say my name wrote: » CloughCasey1 wrote: » 9 acres done this evening. Roll and fert tomorro. You may get yourself some (volcanic) basalt dust for that limestone land. From the "Dirt" book I'm reading. " The geology of a region controls the kind of soil produced when rocks break down, as they eventually must when exposed at the earth's surface. Granite decomposes into sandy soils. Basalt makes clay-rich soils. Limestone just dissolves away, leaving behind rocky landscapes with thin soils and lots of caves. Some rocks weather rapidly to form thick soils; others resist erosion and only slowly build up thin soils. Because the nutrients available to plants depend on the chemical composition of the soil's parent material, understanding soil formation begins with the rocks from which the soil originates."
CloughCasey1 wrote: » Plenty of limestone icebergs sticking up alright!!
Say my name wrote: » You may get yourself some (volcanic) basalt dust for that limestone land. From the "Dirt" book I'm reading. " The geology of a region controls the kind of soil produced when rocks break down, as they eventually must when exposed at the earth's surface. Granite decomposes into sandy soils. Basalt makes clay-rich soils. Limestone just dissolves away, leaving behind rocky landscapes with thin soils and lots of caves. Some rocks weather rapidly to form thick soils; others resist erosion and only slowly build up thin soils. Because the nutrients available to plants depend on the chemical composition of the soil's parent material, understanding soil formation begins with the rocks from which the soil originates."
DJ98 wrote: » Is it best to do a soil test before or after reseeding? Also when's best to spread lime?
charolais0153 wrote: » Be a long distance to find basalt rock around here though
Say my name wrote: » Look up the online bedrock map of Ireland. There are pockets in different parts of the country and then obviously the east of norn Ireland is nearly 100% basalt. Dung, slurry, humic acid, plant roots, acid in rain, would break the dust down. The permies on Facebook and Twitter would have the first start of building soil to grow a protein cover crop of alfalfa,clover, vetch mixed with a few cereals. Mulch that (don't spray) and plough under. Then get your rock dusts, basalt and granite and maybe some lime if needed and till in. Then your nutrient charged biochar charged with dung, urine, fish humates, seaweed extract, worm juice and till that in too. Then from then on maintain a cover on the soil the whole time and none of this continuous ploughing or set (golf ball grazing) stocking with sheep. There's a quare lot of farmers have themselves to blame for their own troubles. The generations before may not have helped but the knowledge is there now on how to right things. In fact a lot of the permaculture principles have been there since ancient Greece but either the education wasn't taught or the farmer was always living hand to mouth or looking for the quick buck and they were never properly done. Same today.
alps wrote: » Have you fields where you have completed the above process? Any growth measurements vs a standard? Interesting work..
RobinBanks wrote: » Is it gone to late to reseed now? Next week promised fairly good and I have a field all dug up where I was filling in hollows and draining.
MeTheMan wrote: » Does spraying the seaweed/seawater lower the pH much? Would you be spreading more lime to combat this?
cute geoge wrote: » What dilution were you at with the sea water and what rate per acre .How did you collect the sea water .Could a lad drive to local strand and soak up a load with vacuum tank
Say my name wrote: » cute geoge wrote: » What dilution were you at with the sea water and what rate per acre .How did you collect the sea water .Could a lad drive to local strand and soak up a load with vacuum tank Eh no on the tanker. You'll kill the grass. Maybe you might get away with diluting it in a very big slatted tank of slurry and agitating well. But it's illegal to take seawater from the sea without a license. Someone else collected it for me iykwim. 4 or 5 litres/acre diluted 1 to 20 non treated well water is safe enough to do no harm. The biggest impact will show on older pastures and then maybe once every few years. Everything in moderation. Water churned up after a storm seems to be the best too.
Wildsurfer wrote: » Are they afraid we'll run out of water in the sea! Where did you buy Basalt fertilizer?
Siamsa Sessions wrote: » Reclaimed (weeds for 5+ years) and reseeded a few acres at the end of August. It’s doing fairly OK but on walking it yesterday, I noticed a good bit of chickweed. Not many docks but plenty chickweed. Is there any particular post-emergence spray more suited to chickweed than docks? There’s 5% clover
mahoney_j wrote: » Find grazing gets rid of it here