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Home heating automation

[Deleted User]

Just starting to look into this now though probably wont be purchasing for a while unless a bargain pops up.

I know there are a number of options out there for this but many like the Nest for example appear to be mostly based around running automatically depending on temp etc or learning your usage.

What I want to know is which one is best to use like a traditional timer? I'd want to set a schedule for heating and water to come on and off and also boost it if I felt like it. Learning my usage or using the thermostat to turn on/off the heating is not something I would really use.

I do want to be able to boost the heat and water remotely so the place is warm before arriving home and have a nice interface for setting timers using an app as we change around our water and heating timing quite often and its a pain having to do this using the poor user interfaces and controls on a traditional heating timer.

I'm assuming they can all be used in this way but I wonder if any device in particular is more geared towards this type of usage?

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deezell

enfant terrible wrote: »

Hi deezell,

I'm looking to move my Netatmo thermostat from an unheated utility room to my kitchen.

Does it matter what thickness core cable I use to extend out to the kitchen? most on ebay seem to be 0.75mm
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/White-Flexible-2-Core-0-75MM-Flex-Cable-x-1M-2M-5M-10M-2192Y-power-lead/141632510582?hash=item20f9f49a76%3Am%3AmGZdSKbYUYITdh9WerAxtZg&var=440785154829&_sop=15&_sacat=0&_nkw=3+core+cable&_from=R40&rt=nc

Also does it matter what amp connector block I use? 3A, 6A, 30A etc
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3A-Terminal-Choc-Block-Electrical-Connector-CE-Approved/291532247114?hash=item43e0ad104a%3Ag%3A~~MAAOxy88lRYbxT&LH_PrefLoc=1&_sop=15&_sacat=0&_nkw=connector+block&_from=R40&rt=nc

Thanks

Thats good enough to switch boilers, pumps and motorised valves. Thermostat contacts generally rated 3a which is plenty. Your connector block can be the same for neatness.

enfant terrible

Hi deezell,

I'm looking to move my Netatmo thermostat from an unheated utility room to my kitchen.

Does it matter what thickness core cable I use to extend out to the kitchen? most on ebay seem to be 0.75mm
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/White-Flexible-2-Core-0-75MM-Flex-Cable-x-1M-2M-5M-10M-2192Y-power-lead/141632510582?hash=item20f9f49a76%3Am%3AmGZdSKbYUYITdh9WerAxtZg&var=440785154829&_sop=15&_sacat=0&_nkw=3+core+cable&_from=R40&rt=nc

Also does it matter what amp connector block I use? 3A, 6A, 30A etc
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3A-Terminal-Choc-Block-Electrical-Connector-CE-Approved/291532247114?hash=item43e0ad104a%3Ag%3A~~MAAOxy88lRYbxT&LH_PrefLoc=1&_sop=15&_sacat=0&_nkw=connector+block&_from=R40&rt=nc

Thanks

irishgeo

deezell wrote: »

The boiler has no bearing on the number of zones. This is determined by the number of seperate heating circuits your plumbing is configured with. Is this an existing system or are you just planning it? If you've paid 3k for installation of a new Firebird thats fine, but it has nothing to do with zones, it's just the heat source. Zones require separate pipe runs for each zone, and these are turned on and off by zone valves. 3 required for 3 zones, though you can get away with one less is the HW is always on. If you already have a single zone system with no clear distinction between the pipework for upstairs heating, downstairs and cylinder, then splitting into 3 won't be a trivial plumbing job. Despite the individual cost of smart TRVs it could work out less expensive to use a number of them on the rads, allowing you to have as many zones as there are TRVs, but easily grouped in 2-3 zones. Smart thermostats can't work magic, they can't heat just the downstairs or bedrooms or HW, there have to be valves or pumps to turn on and off the flow to each zone. I'm guessing the 3K didn't include that?

its an old house with an existing system, i am just upgrading the system

the quote i have has this and its about 2k, bumping it up is a new hw cylinder and the actual control unit.

Advanced Heating Controls Upgrade:
• Motorised valves to separate heating "zones" within your home, including a completely
independent hot water zone
• Thermostats (room and cylinder) for automatic control of the heating of each individual
zone
• 7 day, digital programmer for full heating system with individual zone control. Various
timer and "boost" options as standard for each zone
• Optional programmers with remote access are available, for full control of your heating
system via your computer or Smartphone application
• Boiler interlock to prevent unnecessary boiler cycling
• Timer with auto shut-off for your immersion heater
• Pipe lagging for pipes in your hot-press if required
• Electrical bonding of all pipes within your hot-press. This is a safety measure and is
carried out as standard with our heating controls packages if needed
• Installation fully compliant with relevant Building Regulations and industry best practices

deezell

irishgeo wrote: »

No it doesn't have a HW switch.

It's an outdoor firebird boiler. The guy who priced it up for me gave me 3k and told it was possible to zone into 3 zones and told me I didn't need trv on the rads.

The boiler has no bearing on the number of zones. This is determined by the number of seperate heating circuits your plumbing is configured with. Is this an existing system or are you just planning it? If you've paid 3k for installation of a new Firebird thats fine, but it has nothing to do with zones, it's just the heat source. Zones require separate pipe runs for each zone, and these are turned on and off by zone valves. 3 required for 3 zones, though you can get away with one less is the HW is always on. If you already have a single zone system with no clear distinction between the pipework for upstairs heating, downstairs and cylinder, then splitting into 3 won't be a trivial plumbing job. Despite the individual cost of smart TRVs it could work out less expensive to use a number of them on the rads, allowing you to have as many zones as there are TRVs, but easily grouped in 2-3 zones. Smart thermostats can't work magic, they can't heat just the downstairs or bedrooms or HW, there have to be valves or pumps to turn on and off the flow to each zone. I'm guessing the 3K didn't include that?

irishgeo

deezell wrote: »

irishgeo wrote: »

ok,

what i am planning to do is the following. currently its an oil boiler with 1 zone (whole house) with a 7 day timer.

What i want to do is the following.

split the house into 3 zones, downstairs , upstairs and hot water. its 2 double rads downstairs and 4 upstairs.

I want the hot water in the summer but no rads as we only have an immersion

what i am stuck at is the following, the smart thermostat to be used to get all to work . I should add i have a google home so it would be good to link into that.

So what do you recommend for the setup i plan to have. getting the SEI grant.

Do you currently have a HW/ CH switch setting on your 7 day timer.
Make and model of timer.
Is the Oil boiler an indoor model. Does it have HW CH switch on the front? I'm trying to establish if your system has a separate gravity feed to heat the cylinder (upstairs?) without heating any of the radiators. In a typical simple installation the HW cylinder was plumbed from the downstairs boiler though an open gravity loop, with all the radiators fed through a seperate pumped loop. The timer then in general fired the boiler giving HW, and the wall stat turned on the pump to heat the rads, so you could have summer HW only, either by turning down the stat or by throwing a small switch on the timer to HW only, which cut the pump but not the boiler. Is there a wall thermostat downstairs? To get a 3 zoned system from a single zone will require either a fair amount of zone valve plumbing, This may not even be feasable if the existing plumbing is not laid out in seperate loops allowing the insertion of the zone valves. The alternative is to insert smart TRVs on each radiator, which can be grouped into zones and when all closed will allow the boiler to hear HW only. This would satisfy the smart zoning requirements of the seai grant scheme.

No it doesn't have a HW switch.

It's an outdoor firebird boiler. The guy who priced it up for me gave me 3k and told it was possible to zone into 3 zones and told me I didn't need trv on the rads.

deezell

irishgeo wrote: »

ok,

what i am planning to do is the following. currently its an oil boiler with 1 zone (whole house) with a 7 day timer.

What i want to do is the following.

split the house into 3 zones, downstairs , upstairs and hot water. its 2 double rads downstairs and 4 upstairs.

I want the hot water in the summer but no rads as we only have an immersion

what i am stuck at is the following, the smart thermostat to be used to get all to work . I should add i have a google home so it would be good to link into that.

So what do you recommend for the setup i plan to have. getting the SEI grant.

Do you currently have a HW/ CH switch setting on your 7 day timer.
Make and model of timer.
Is the Oil boiler an indoor model. Does it have HW CH switch on the front? I'm trying to establish if your system has a separate gravity feed to heat the cylinder (upstairs?) without heating any of the radiators. In a typical simple installation the HW cylinder was plumbed from the downstairs boiler though an open gravity loop, with all the radiators fed through a seperate pumped loop. The timer then in general fired the boiler giving HW, and the wall stat turned on the pump to heat the rads, so you could have summer HW only, either by turning down the stat or by throwing a small switch on the timer to HW only, which cut the pump but not the boiler. Is there a wall thermostat downstairs? To get a 3 zoned system from a single zone will require either a fair amount of zone valve plumbing, This may not even be feasable if the existing plumbing is not laid out in seperate loops allowing the insertion of the zone valves. The alternative is to insert smart TRVs on each radiator, which can be grouped into zones and when all closed will allow the boiler to hear HW only. This would satisfy the smart zoning requirements of the seai grant scheme.

irishgeo

ok,

what i am planning to do is the following. currently its an oil boiler with 1 zone (whole house) with a 7 day timer.

What i want to do is the following.

split the house into 3 zones, downstairs , upstairs and hot water. its 2 double rads downstairs and 4 upstairs.

I want the hot water in the summer but no rads as we only have an immersion

what i am stuck at is the following, the smart thermostat to be used to get all to work . I should add i have a google home so it would be good to link into that.

So what do you recommend for the setup i plan to have. getting the SEI grant.

slayerking

Thank you deezell for the amazingly detailed advice. Still weighing up what to do. I've installed the Nest hello smart door bell, so I'm 'in bed' with them and I really like the thermostats. Hard to know whether it's worth it though.

deezell

slayerking wrote: »

I looking to replace my existing thermostats with Nests but struggling to find out how to do it given the setup I have.
I have an air to water (electricity based) 2 zone heating system controlled by an EPH controls programmer (an R27 2 zone programmer with 2 x CM3 thermostats).

Zone 1: downstairs heating
Zone 2: upstairs heating

We have hot water also but this is not controlled via a visible thermostat, its always hot and apparently how it supposed to be with a2w systems. Theres also a joule cylinder then in the hot press.

I know I'll need to wire up the heat link somewhere, possibly where the programmer is and then wire in the thermostats.

Has anyone set up a Nest on anything like this?

To replace a single thermostat neatly with a Nest requires disconnecting the stat wire pair from the controller and boiler/zone valve and connecting to the heatlink for each nest stat. The controller can be programmed to be always on or removed altogether. The Nest stats will communicate wirelessly with their respective heatlinks, powered by small phone style adaptors. You can power the nest stats from the heatlink directly by removing the CM3 stats, installing the Nest in the same location and reusing the disconnected mains wires to and from the old stats to carry the low voltage power from the heatlink (also carries a wired version of the wireless digital signal) directly to the Nest. CM3 stats may also have a third Neutral wire connected which can be taped up. This must be carried out correctly or you risk accidentally putting mains into the Nest and frying it. The Nest stat has no mains relay built in, only terminals for low voltage power/digital signalling over a single pair.
Tado, Hive or Netatmo would be a far simpler install especially as HW control is not required. All these stats have internal mains relays which will directly replace the CM3s on the wall, setting the R27 to always on on both zones. The 2 wires from terminals 1 and 2 on the CM3 are simply connected to Com and N/O on the smart stats, if there is a Neutral wire to the CM3 this is taped up or parked. 2 Nests will cost a bit more than 2 of the other stats also.

slayerking

I looking to replace my existing thermostats with Nests but struggling to find out how to do it given the setup I have.
I have an air to water (electricity based) 2 zone heating system controlled by an EPH controls programmer (an R27 2 zone programmer with 2 x CM3 thermostats).

Zone 1: downstairs heating
Zone 2: upstairs heating

We have hot water also but this is not controlled via a visible thermostat, its always hot and apparently how it supposed to be with a2w systems. Theres also a joule cylinder then in the hot press.

I know I'll need to wire up the heat link somewhere, possibly where the programmer is and then wire in the thermostats.

Has anyone set up a Nest on anything like this?

keane2097

deezell wrote: »

Or this for a tenner. Needs to ne able to switch 16A for an immersion element.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Boger-Wireless-Control-Consumption-Measurement/dp/B0769DG75Z
Similar query back in post #704 in regard to using a Nest stat.

Brilliant, have ordered one of these - much obliged.

I had read through some of the last few pages a couple of days ago but they were like Greek to me at the time, it's amazing the difference with a small (tiny!) bit of knowledge

deezell

Or this for a tenner. Needs to ne able to switch 16A for an immersion element.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Boger-Wireless-Control-Consumption-Measurement/dp/B0769DG75Z
Similar query back in post #704 in regard to using a Nest stat.

keane2097

deezell wrote: »

Yes, yes and yes. You've got it.

Thanks indeed, you're very good.

I've just checked and it looks like the switch upstairs only handles the immersion, no firing of the boiler.

So the tado starter kit would do the job for my heating, and from reading around if I want to control the immersion remotely then I will need something like this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Optimum-OP-SBWF01-Enabled-Socket-Switch/dp/B07843J914

dball

Deezell = Legend!

deezell

Yes, yes and yes. You've got it.

keane2097

deezell wrote: »

Spot on. Tado stat will be wired directly to the cable from downstairs timer. I'm assuming its in an open location to give a general measurement of room temperature, not in a press or in the utility room. Do this for starters.

Yeah the timer downstairs is just sitting on the wall. So if I replace this with the smart thermostat, my heating will then to a greater or lesser extent be taking its cue from whatever the temperature happens to be in that location?

deezell wrote: »

The ext. Kit can later replace the upstairs HW timer. I'm assuming the HW timer also fires the gas boiler for HW, and is not just a timer for an electric immersion heater. There are many installations out there where the gas only heats the HW cylinder while heating the house, and during the summer people use the immersion. I say this because the ext. kit can't switch enough current to power an immersion element.

I'm pretty sure the upstairs timer fires the boiler, I will have to double check. If the upstairs timer is controlling the immersion only I presume I will have to find some other solution for that side of it?

deezell wrote: »

With the ext kit you can optionally locate the stat wirelessly anywhere, the kit has two relays, the one for heating would need to be connected to where the downstairs timer wires return back to the boiler, so wiring is a little more involved as the ext kit then has to connect to the wires from both timers.

The bit in bold, this would allow me to essentially use the temperature in some other part of the house as the cue for the different heating plans to kick in etc?

Sorry for repeating what you are saying back to you, just want to make sure I'm understanding properly.

deezell

keane2097 wrote: »

At the moment our setup is that we have a gas boiler with no thermostat. We have one of these:

downstairs that controls the radiators, and another one of them upstairs in the hotpress that controls the hot water.

If I'm following you rightly, the tado starter kit would replace the downstairs timer switch yoke and I would be able to control my radiator heating using the app and smart thermostat.

My hot water in that scenario would be on the upstairs timer as it is currently.

I could then replace the upstairs timer with the tado extension kit and then control the HW via the app and whatever hardware comes with the extender separately?

Spot on. Tado stat will be wired directly to the cable from downstairs timer. I'm assuming its in an open location to give a general measurement of room temperature, not in a press or in the utility room. Do this for starters. The ext. Kit can later replace the upstairs HW timer. I'm assuming the HW timer also fires the gss boiler for HW, and is not just a timer for an electric immersion heater. There are many installations out there where the gas only heats the HW cylinder while heating the house, and during the summer people use the immersion. I say this because the ext. kit can't switch enough current to power an immersion element.
With the ext kit you can optionally locate the stat wirelessly anywhere, the kit has two relays, the one for heating would need to be connected to where the downstairs timer wires return back to the boiler, so wiring is a little more involved as the ext kit then has to connect to the wires from both timers.

keane2097

deezell wrote: »

If you have a single home wall thermostat to control the heating of your home then the starter kit stat will replace this directly. If you have in addition some kind of timer/ controller for your heating then this can be set to always on, and the smart stat will take over the heating timing function.
If you have a hot water cylinder and your hot water is heated, (a) only when the heating is on or, (b) according to its own seperate timing on an existing controller, with or without a cylinder thermostat, then your HW will continue to heat in the same manner. If ypur boiler is a combi or direct type HW is supplied on demand directly from the boiler.
If you have a timer controlled HW setup and you want this function to be part of the Tado setup you require the extension kit.
If your heating is controlled only by timing but without a wall thermostat you can use the extension kit to insert the Tado stat wirelessly into the heating control circuit. HW timing is optional.

At the moment our setup is that we have a gas boiler with no thermostat. We have one of these:

downstairs that controls the radiators, and another one of them upstairs in the hotpress that controls the hot water.

If I'm following you rightly, the tado starter kit would replace the downstairs timer switch yoke and I would be able to control my radiator heating using the app and smart thermostat.

My hot water in that scenario would be on the upstairs timer as it is currently.

I could then replace the upstairs timer with the tado extension kit and then control the HW via the app and whatever hardware comes with the extender separately?

deezell

keane2097 wrote: »

Just looking at a few videos etc online I'm confused as to whether the tado Starter kit linked includes everything needed to remotely/smartly control my boiler or whether the extension kit is needed as well.

If you have a single home wall thermostat to control the heating of your home then the starter kit stat will replace this directly. If you have in addition some kind of timer/ controller for your heating then this can be set to always on, and the smart stat will take over the heating timing function.
If you have a hot water cylinder and your hot water is heated, (a) only when the heating is on or, (b) according to its own seperate timing on an existing controller, with or without a cylinder thermostat, then your HW will continue to heat in the same manner. If ypur boiler is a combi or direct type HW is supplied on demand directly from the boiler.
If you have a timer controlled HW setup and you want this function to be part of the Tado setup you require the extension kit.
If your heating is controlled only by timing but without a wall thermostat you can use the extension kit to insert the Tado stat wirelessly into the heating control circuit. HW timing is optional.

keane2097

Just looking at a few videos etc online I'm confused as to whether the tado Starter kit linked includes everything needed to remotely/smartly control my boiler or whether the extension kit is needed as well.

deezell

You have to be sharp deleting a post before someone else quotes you!
IMHO, the Tado has just about every feature you could want. In addition to those mentiond, it has comprehensive graphing of zone temperatures with weather info, away mode and humidity graphing. It is interoperable with Alexa, Google, Homekit and IFTTT. It has highly configurable away functions, and also configurable manual boost settings, with timer, end at next event or next manual operation. The scheduling is almost infinite in flexibility with multiple events per zone per day available. For more tecchie installs with combi boilers it can interact with the boiler using digital OpenTherm protocols, and of course it can co-exist with and control ( or be controlled by) smart TRVs. It looks great too.

GarIT

The high horse brigade wrote: »

Netatmo has lots of those features, it learns how long the house takes to heat and adjusts depending on local weather, starts earlier on cold mornings etc

I didn't think it did, I might have been thinking of nest or something. After looking it up I found it did, that's why I deleted my post.

The high horse brigade

GarIT wrote: »

Lots. Tado tracks your phone and prewarms the house when you are coming home while Netatmo only works off a schedule. Tado checks the forecast so it goes it little heavier or lighter on the heating in the morning depending on what the temperature and sunshine will be like. Tado turns off the heating if it detects an open door or window so it's not wasting heat.

Netatmo has lots of those features, it learns how long the house takes to heat and adjusts depending on local weather, starts earlier on cold mornings etc

keane2097

Is there much/any difference in functionality between the tado Smart thermostat that has been mentioned here and the Netatmo smart thermostat that Energia install?

The Netatmo is a lot more expensive but the tado seems to do all the same stuff from my reading of product descriptions...?

reignschaos

@Deezell appreciate the information, very informative, thank you.

deezell

You can do it all with 2 tado stats and an extension kit. This will give independent smart timing control of each zone time and temperature, and the HW timing assuming cylinder is directly connected to the boiler. No plumbing required, the stats can directly replace the existing ones and the extension kit can be wired next to the boiler to fire it just for HW without the radiator zone valves opening. No more going around closing valves, and each radiator zone timing is independent. A cylinder stat can be added optionally if you can get a cable from cylinder location to boiler location.

reignschaos

@Deezell, If by cylinder you mean a hot water tank in my hot press, then yep, i do.

Many thanks for the advice.

In relation to the HW zone, what would be the modern standard why of doing this?

Any idea of potential cost to do whatever plumbing and electircal work to get a hotwater zone...ballpark figure even, just so I know whats a decent quote against a crazzzzyyyyy one :-)

deezell

reignschaos wrote: »

@Denisfarran, Thanks for the information. Based on your info above it seems that I might have a 3 channel programmer but only wired for two ie the thermostats. Therefore its seems a Bridge and two theromostats would work as a direct replacement.

To get my 3 zone sounds like I may need both plumbing and electrical work. I guess my issue there will be not being able to run any additional wires from the upstairs hotpress to the programmer.

If you have a combi boiler, you should have hot water on demand without a cylinder store. If you have a cylinder then your boiler is acting as a single souce flow/return to the cylinder coil directly and to the rads via zone valves. It should be relatively easy to wire the HW Switched Live from the zone controller to the boiler where it or either of the zone valve switched lives will fire the boiler. After this you will be able to heat HW only on a timed basis. If you want HW temperature thermostat control of the cylinder you add this stat in series with the SL from the timer to the boiler. Once you have this 3 zone system running you can go smart by just replacing the zone stats, keeping the controller for HW timing. Alternatively you can add the HW timing to the smart system using the appropriate relay box depending on brand of smart stat. You would still use the cylinder stat for HW temperature limiting. Nest, Tado and most others just provide timing for the HW. Have someone look at your system, ask why you have a combi boiler if you're not using an on demand HW system.

EDIT. Just looked at your controllerr link there now, this is just a crude 2 channel mechanical timer switch. Have you just one of these? Then I suspect the installer used the HW timer fir the second room zone.

EDIT2. Its even cruder than that, it has two zones both controlled by a the same single timer, at most you can manually turn one zone off or on constant while the other is constrained by the timer. What a piece of crap. Designed to allow you to knock off heating zone while maintaining HW on the timer, except the plumber tried to use it as a 2 heating zone device, which it isn't. J***s wept.

reignschaos

@Denisfarran, Thanks for the information. Based on your info above it seems that I might have a 3 channel programmer but only wired for two ie the thermostats. Therefore its seems a Bridge and two theromostats would work as a direct replacement.

To get my 3 zone sounds like I may need both plumbing and electrical work. I guess my issue there will be not being able to run any additional wires from the upstairs hotpress to the programmer.

denisfarran

reignschaos wrote: »

Like many before me and no doubt many after me, like others, when I think I start to understand I get lost again :-(, hopefully people here can assist me.

I have an Ideal Logic Combi Boiler heating the house of 11 radiators. I have 2 zones (upstairs and downstairs). Hotwater is only heated when I turn on one of the zones (for example during summer I manually turn off all the radiators and have the upstairs thermostat set to 25). Even though my controller has a HW option, it does not heat the water.

I have a Thermostat in the master bed and in the Living Room. My controller is in the kitchen. I have 2 yellow motorised values in the hotpress.

My Controller:- https://www.amazon.co.uk/Towerchron-QM2-Mechanical-Programmer-Timeswitch/dp/B00HZKKCWO
My thermostats:- https://www.google.ie/search?q=flash+thermostat&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjE0bOBt6TcAhWmK8AKHQnKBKkQ_AUICigB&biw=1920&bih=947#imgrc=Vuj2mGy5tNR5HM:

Motorised Values
Two cables leave the motorised values into an electrical junction box. Two cables leave this junction box back going to another junction box. This junction box is connected to the wall with a very heavy duty whiteish/grayish cable.

What I would like is to replace my two zones with 3 if possible, Upstairs, Downstairs and hotwater. Then in time I would like to replace my current dumb TRV's with Smart ones and ultimately create a zone per room.

With Prime Day on and from reviewing this thread Tado or Hive might suit (Honeywell Evo I believe would work but I would need a plumber (I think)) and its somewhat out of my price range currently. Also the Tado V2 may even suit better based on the O2 link posted recently, but I don't really know and I don't want to purchase hardware and found out I can not use it the way I want.

If anyone can offer some guidance, it would be very much appreciated.

Cheers

I have a 3 channel programmer which had analogue thermostats attached for Upstairs, Downstairs & DHW. We’d just spent 3k on a new boiler & getting dual zone + DHW the autumn of 2016.

Borrowed a recording thermometer from work & found that temps could go from 3 degrees under the dial to 2 degrees over before the dumb thermostat would open or close the circuit.

Replaced the Downstairs dumb thermostat with a Tado starter kit back in January 18. This is not a big job. You kill the circuit & pull the 2 wires from the analogue thermostat & put them in the right connectors on the Tado thermostat. Hang the Tado & insert the batteries.

Herself was so impressed with the more accurate control of temperature that she asked to get another Tado for upstairs.
Did a bit of cable running & put the second Tado in the Master Bedroom.
Left the DHW to the programmer.