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Child Item

Labour Saving and General Guntering

emaherx

How about using this thread to show off our engineering skills (or lack of!)
A lot of us have home made or improvised labour saving tools / implements lying around. Similar to stuff in Farmers Journal labour saving compettions. (without the prize money:p).

Maybe we could use this thread to share interesting ideas and discuss improvements.

I don't have any pictures at the moment of my own but I will take some at the weekend if not before.

My own projects include:
Quick hitch for front loader (fairly rough but works), designed to fit Trima implements onto MF loader.
Adapter to fit bale lifter onto front loader.
Various other loader attachments spikes etc.

Current project is a wrapped bale transporter being built out of remains of an old Muck Spreader. (only just started, currently just an axle and draw bar).

Their maybe other stuff around too, I'll have to have a look.

So what are peoples opinions, is this a good idea for a thread?

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Muckit

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Could be a costly mistake. Heard a story recently from a guy that walked into a yard to find his young fella and a trainee mechanic friend just after filling the engine with hydraulic oil.

Some tractors will take the same oil in rhe engine and back end

patsy_mccabe

Muckit wrote: »

Some tractors will take the same oil in rhe engine and back end

Universal oil but not hydraulic oil.

blue5000

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Could be a costly mistake. Heard a story recently from a guy that walked into a yard to find his young fella and a trainee mechanic friend just after filling the engine with hydraulic oil.

Younger brother did it here too, that's how we got a 6410 engine in a 5000;)

Heard of another lad thinking his Fiat gearbox and back end oil were all the one, changed the oil, but only put oil in the back end and left the gearbox dry. If in doubt ask someone who already has one the same as you, don't be shy.

Figerty

Nned to do something similar with a 4000. But the body work needs replacing...just waiting for sterling to crash a bit before getting the panels and wings!

SCOL

Made this up to service a field with no water.

Pussyhands

Is that a manual fill from the tap or is there a valve?

SCOL

I need to plum it up there is a ball cock in the drinker, there is a valve on the IBC which I can close off when moving,

I'm think of putting a tap beside the drinker so I could use it to connect a hose off gravity feed if I ever need it.

9935452

blue5000 wrote: »

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Could be a costly mistake. Heard a story recently from a guy that walked into a yard to find his young fella and a trainee mechanic friend just after filling the engine with hydraulic oil.

Younger brother did it here too, that's how we got a 6410 engine in a 5000;)

Heard of another lad thinking his Fiat gearbox and back end oil were all the one, changed the oil, but only put oil in the back end and left the gearbox dry. If in doubt ask someone who already has one the same as you, don't be shy.

I worked in a lorry garage when i was younger. I got a bolliking one day for putting shell 15w40 into a lorry over texaco 15w40.
Jaysus. Thats way more expensive and too good for that lorry. He wont pay for that

emaherx

Found this on Facebook.
Thought it worth a share, easily modified to suit other gear boxes or awkward sumps.

studdlymurphy

emaherx wrote:

Found this on Facebook. Thought it worth a share, easily modified to suit other gear boxes or awkward sumps.

If the strap from the pipe to the magnet was adjustable it would work on most yokes.
Very smart idea

Muckit

emaherx wrote: »

Found this on Facebook.
Thought it worth a share, easily modified to suit other gear boxes or awkward sumps.

I'm not on facebook, but the likes of that makes me want to join!

Muckit

While we're talking about oil changes etc, any tips on replacing O ring and plastic lads in hydraulic couplings? Are they done from the front or has the coupling to come off and they accessed from the back?

Thanks

satstheway

Muckit wrote: »

While we're talking about oil changes etc, any tips on replacing O ring and plastic lads in hydraulic couplings? Are they done from the front or has the coupling to come off and they accessed from the back?

Thanks

Done from the front. But would a vid on how to do it would be nice

patsy_mccabe

I've never replaced the o-rings but here's a video;

satstheway

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

I've never replaced the o-rings but here's a video;

Good video I changed them from the front and the plastic bit was a bit awkward. It worked for me.

9935452

emaherx wrote: »

Found this on Facebook.
Thought it worth a share, easily modified to suit other gear boxes or awkward sumps.

I bought a yoke on ebay a few years back called form a funnel. Basically an a4 sheet which you bend to form a funnel or tray to divert oil or water or the like. Very handy.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/332396355368

https://youtu.be/C7pm3tkl7tU

Muckit

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

I've never replaced the o-rings but here's a video;

Yes thanks. But l don't think mine are as complicated. The kit l got has only one O ring and 2 white plastic washers. I presume one to go each side of O ring.

Muckit

satstheway wrote: »

Good video I changed them from the front and the plastic bit was a bit awkward. It worked for me.

Yes mine appears to only have one white washer. But not sure if should have another one on inside of Oring.

studdlymurphy

Muckit wrote: »

satstheway wrote: »

Good video I changed them from the front and the plastic bit was a bit awkward. It worked for me.

Yes mine appears to only have one white washer. But not sure if should have another one on inside of Oring.

I changed one recently the white washer was split, there was only one washer and one o-ring.
Be careful taking the old out not to scratch the metal inside as this will cause a leak, use plastic or brass o-ring picks, put the washer in first as it will be awkward and tight for space if the o-ring is in first

Muckit

studdlymurphy wrote: »

I changed one recently the white washer was split, there was only one washer and one o-ring.
Be careful taking the old out not to scratch the metal inside as this will cause a leak, use plastic or brass o-ring picks, put the washer in first as it will be awkward and tight for space if the o-ring is in first

Good man. Thanks. Does the O ring go in behind with the white plastic washer to the front ?

studdlymurphy

Muckit wrote:

Good man. Thanks. Does the O ring go in behind with the white plastic washer to the front ?

O-ring goes in behind the washer

bogman_bass

Is getting the front hub seals changed a big/expensive job?

White Clover

bogman_bass wrote: »

Is getting the front hub seals changed a big/expensive job?

No. It's a job you could do yourself easily.

blue5000

Anyone noticed hammer handles gone loose in the hot weather?

This works overnight anyway;

Burning Tires

blue5000 wrote: »

Anyone noticed hammer handles gone loose in the hot weather?

This works overnight anyway;

What is ethiline glycol to a bog monkey like myself?

Base price

Burning Tires wrote: »

What is ethiline glycol to a bog monkey like myself?

Anti-freeze.
My Grandfather used to soak the handles of the hand tools in a barrel of bluestone (copper sulphate) that was made up to spray the potatoes for blight.

patsy_mccabe

I've an old Howard side spreader here, that's over 30 years old. Bought second hand even then. Tyres are getting very dozed, so decided to try opening the nuts. All opened no problem with a heavy duty socket and a short bar, 18" or so. Didn't even have to put a foot on the bar.
Now, I never opened them before. Maybe the last guy greased them but I put burned engine oil all over the spreader evrey year after using. Just goes to show.
I've had to cut off wheel nuts before on a trailer, as they were seized up that much.

Muckit

Brake fluid and acetone mixed 50:50 is a diy mix l heard about on YouTube to cut through rust and help loosen nuts and bolts. I've tried it recently and works well

9935452

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

I've an old Howard side spreader here, that's over 30 years old. Bought second hand even then. Tyres are getting very dozed, so decided to try opening the nuts. All opened no problem with a heavy duty socket and a short bar, 18" or so. Didn't even have to put a foot on the bar.
Now, I never opened them before. Maybe the last guy greased them but I put burned engine oil all over the spreader evrey year after using. Just goes to show.
I've had to cut off wheel nuts before on a trailer, as they were seized up that much.

I have a host of inch air guns here for the yard.
For breakdowns away from the yard ive a torque multiplier. No messing with t bars and pipes.
If it wont open the nut it will shear it off.
Well worth 50 euro for a cheap one

anthony500_1

9935452 wrote:

I have a host of inch air guns here for the yard. For breakdowns away from the yard ive a torque multiplier. No messing with t bars and pipes. If it wont open the nut it will shear it off. Well worth 50 euro for a cheap one

The torque multiplier is a serious job. And no pressure on u using it either. Great job every yard should have one