Sleeper12 wrote: » Most people testing have a point to prove. They might have the temperature set higher than they would actually shower in. They might measure slightly less than really is there. It could be 1.1 litres per fill instead of 1 litres. Maybe it's 55 seconds instead of 60 seconds. Some might not be as scientific or accurate as we would like. I use the jug test here as a rough guide
John.G wrote: Point taken but anyone who got into a shower which is giving them a nice comfortable shower at full power will jump out of it if it developed a fault and went down to 1/2 power, if you yourself just switched to the first element, then in order to maintain your 45C (from say, 5C) you will have to reduce the flowrate to a measly (4.8*860/(45-5)/60) 1.72 LPM. You will certainly not be too pleased with this. People are sometimes accepting tepid temperatures with better flowrates on a malfunctioning shower....if one accepts 33C as a very very tepid showering temperature then a shower operating at only 4.8KW will still only give a flowrate of 2.46 LPM.
Sleeper12 wrote: » OP is a totally different case. He has something very strange with his heating can or power supply to the house. If the engineers reading was correct it could be as simple as the pull cord switch starting to burn out or the rcbo failing. If it were me I'd get an electrician to check it out. That's cheaper than charging the shower. An electrician for as little as a call out fee can test the whole setup & give a difinite answer.
Damoedge wrote: If you read back we did have our electrician out
John.G wrote: » A 9.0 KW T90 SR, as long as Triton agree to do it at no cost to you, its been established I think very comprehensively that your shower has been running at "1/2" power since day one. You have full confidence in your wiring etc and a fully functioning T90 SR I would think is (still) a very good choice. If you explained to Triton the steps you took to establish the poor performance I would think they would be receptive to it...hy shouldnt they, if only to re establish their good name!.
Damoedge wrote: So is there any other shower on the Irish market bar this one and the Mira elite QT that I could get???
Sleeper12 wrote: » Did he test the element in the shower?
Sleeper12 wrote: » Triton t900pi
Damoedge wrote: » I don't think he did....he just tested the voltage supply and ampage in the slower itself and all was ok with it...then he tested the board and sockets and checked outside too
Damoedge wrote: Where can I buy it?
John.G wrote: » It should have been pulling around 38 amps then. If it was only running initially on one element then it would be about 20 amps. OK then, I assume the removed unit will be returned to Triton? Before doing so can you or your electrician friend just test the heating can resistances, before returning it, they should be 11 ohms and 13 ohms.
Sleeper12 wrote: » If your plumber supplied & fitted the shower then it's his problem and he would have to replace the shower free of charge. I always point this out to people saying that they can source materials cheaper. If tradesmen supply then they are responsible for the whole job. If you supply then they are only responsible for their own work and not the product. Any trade counter can order in the triton t900pi. I usually buy mine from the shower centre on the Malahide road. They have a website. They will post one to you.
Damoedge wrote: » Right just tested it there... 11.5 13.2
John.G wrote: » That gives one element of 4.6 KW and the other of 4.0 KW, total of 8.6 KW, a bit shy of 9.0 KW but I suppose that could be element manufacturing tolerences or multitester error. If you feel happy to do so would you be willing to test the voltage at the shower terminals with the power on high, pos ii on the dial. and with the temp dial at say 2 oclock with shower switched on?http://dublinshowerrepair.com/uploads/3/3/0/8/3308713/triton_t90sr_user_manual.pdf
Damoedge wrote: » I did that also while testing resistance... Shower off 238 Shower on 224
John.G wrote: » OK Thanks, the only other suggestion I can make is to operate the power selector switch with the cover off.....I presume that if you have it fully to the left and have the locking/commissioning locking screw holes lined up that it is "Off" then there possibly should be two further clicks when turned clockwise to ensure its in the full power position?...I really cant think of anything else.
Damoedge wrote: » I don't get ya on this one.....??
John.G wrote: » I'm trying to make sure that High power is actually selected you might feel/hear two distinct clicks when going from cold to pos ii ?,
Wearb wrote: » A14V drop on a 3 metre run of 10mm seems excessive to me. Perhaps some electrician would comment here?
John.G wrote: A 14V drop, if true would indicate a very serious problem along the way or at some connection but lets see what the readings are.
Damoedge wrote: » Yes I do with the cover on...and during testing with the cover off it's the same...but..it feels like that knob could go another turn...I didn't try it but I did put a little pressure on it and it felt like it would turn again...like from position ii to position iii...but there is no iii...I didn't turn it in case something snapped....
John.G wrote: » I think maybe 0.00158 ohms/meter for 10 MM2 so a 3 meter run should be a total resistance of 3*2*0.00158 = 0.00948 ohms? the element resistances were 11.5 & 13.2ohms = 6.146 ohms in parallel so the total circuit resistance is 6.146+0.00948 = 6.15548 ohms. the no load terminal volts are 238V so current flow is 238/6.15548 = 38.66 amps and the cable volt drop = 38.66*0.00948 = 0.36 volt? seems very low. However the voltage shoild be taken at both the supply cable end and at the shower terminals with the shower On before jumping to any conclusions. Damoedge might do this, it will be very interesting. Even if my calc above is incorrect, I cant imagine any more than 1 or 2 volt drop in this cableA 14V drop, if true would indicate a very serious problem along the way or at some connection but lets see what the readings are.
Wearb wrote: That is producing quite a lot of heat somewhere and as we know that voltage drop will only get worse as the temperature increases resistance.
Sleeper12 wrote: » The old shower worked fine. I'm wondering if the plumber damaged the cable in the wall by drilling a new screw hole. This might explain the electrician testing everywhere and not find a problem
Damoedge wrote: » I took the voltage reading at the cables before going into the shower I also took readings around the terminal..they were all the same...I noticed that the voltage fluctuated a bit when the shower was running I'd say about 4/5 volts but when the shower was off it remained very steady at the terminals....the voltage I listed here was the highest fluctuation and I should have stated that when I was typing it...(was in a rush) Also when taken the resistance that fluctuated a lot too before it would settle...I'm talking like nearly a minute to settle down....if that means anything I don't know...? Again for the hundred time I'd say..I tested plug sockets nearest to the board and shower and sockets furthest away from the shower...there all reading around 238 volts....a few weeks ago I tested the shower cable going into the board itself and that was normal too. When I said above I was rushing I was taking it down...well I have taken the shower down now lads...went up the attic turned off the water and she's off the wall now as it's been brought back tomorrow...I'm sick to me teeth with it! At the end of the day...I don't care what anyone says about this or that or that and this....the way I see it is this way.................. A perfect working shower...the old one....and when I say perfect I mean this...2 elements on...temp knob at 1/2 o clock....which had great water pressure and prefect water temp at that setting to have a lovely shower in! Any higher we would have been scalded!....this shower had specs...9kw in bla bla bla......was replaced with another shower with the same specs...bla bla bla.....with absolutely no changes to wiring or electrics or plumbing! I mean you wouldn't say something if we put in a big dirty halogen flood light out the back of something....and this new shower...NEW ! ...better technology better bla bla bla....and it performs ****e!....it's that simple lads....well to me it is...the fault was with the new shower and that's that! I think the jug test which I was a bit shocked with myself proved that... Anyways she is off the wall...fing thing was off the wall since day one...lol lol lol lol Looks like I'll have to get the Mira because my parents don't want to go a day without the shower...feck sake like...lol
Damoedge wrote: I took the voltage reading at the cables before going into the shower I also took readings around the terminal..they were all the same...I noticed that the voltage fluctuated a bit when the shower was running I'd say about 4/5 volts but when the shower was off it remained very steady at the terminals....the voltage I listed here was the highest fluctuation and I should have stated that when I was typing it...(was in a rush)
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