nav[aria-label="Primary Navigation"] { padding: 0; & ul { list-style: none; width: 100%; display: flex; flex-direction: row; justify-content: start; align-items: start; gap: 30px; padding: 0; & li { margin: 0; } & ul li { list-style: none; } } }

Child Item

Labour Saving and General Guntering

emaherx

How about using this thread to show off our engineering skills (or lack of!)
A lot of us have home made or improvised labour saving tools / implements lying around. Similar to stuff in Farmers Journal labour saving compettions. (without the prize money:p).

Maybe we could use this thread to share interesting ideas and discuss improvements.

I don't have any pictures at the moment of my own but I will take some at the weekend if not before.

My own projects include:
Quick hitch for front loader (fairly rough but works), designed to fit Trima implements onto MF loader.
Adapter to fit bale lifter onto front loader.
Various other loader attachments spikes etc.

Current project is a wrapped bale transporter being built out of remains of an old Muck Spreader. (only just started, currently just an axle and draw bar).

Their maybe other stuff around too, I'll have to have a look.

So what are peoples opinions, is this a good idea for a thread?

Find more posts tagged with

Quick Links

Comments

nophd08

Hi all, I've just refurbished an old transport box using 5mm plate. What type of cutting edge is normally used? Should I just overlap a piece of flat to the leading edge, maybe 70x6mm. It'll only be getting light use so hardox not required.

shootermcgee

nophd08 wrote:

Hi all, I've just refurbished an old transport box using 5mm plate. What type of cutting edge is normally used? Should I just overlap a piece of flat to the leading edge, maybe 70x6mm. It'll only be getting light use so hardox not required.

Once your not reversing into any piles of clay or stone I couldn't see a problem in the 6mm flat iron

patsy_mccabe

Got a new Cosmo spreader and had to cut the PTO shaft as too long. Put little dimbles with a drill bit to mark how it aligns right. You know when you take it apart to oil it and can't get it back together again.:rolleyes:

Also had this little trolley with castors lying around for a few years. It was thrown out at work. Turns out it fits the base perfectly. Happy days.

Attie

On the power shaft should be two rounded and one flat spleen it can be seen in picture, might need a lightish rub with a grinder to give it a lead in.
Trolley fits like a glove saves working on the high shelf.

Odelay

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Got a new Cosmo spreader and had to cut the PTO shaft as too long. Put little dimbles with a drill bit to mark how it aligns right. You know when you take it apart to oil it and can't get it back together again.:rolleyes:

Also had this little trolley with castors lying around for a few years. It was thrown out at work. Turns out it fits the base perfectly. Happy days.

With the trolley, ya poxy bugger!! Well done, tis perfect for it.

patsy_mccabe

Attie wrote: »

On the power shaft should be two rounded and one flat spleen it can be seen in picture, might need a lightish rub with a grinder to give it a lead in.
Trolley fits like a glove saves working on the high shelf.

I have little diamond files (from Lidl), some rounded, some flat. Ideal for deburring like this. Must have a look again at the spleens. Couldn't see the difference today. Cheers.

Odelay wrote: »

With the trolley, ya poxy bugger!! Well done, tis perfect for it.

Only about 2mm to spare on the width but perfect. Thought I had a few hours cutting and welding to do.

kk.man

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Got a new Cosmo spreader and had to cut the PTO shaft as too long. Put little dimbles with a drill bit to mark how it aligns right. You know when you take it apart to oil it and can't get it back together again.:rolleyes:

Also had this little trolley with castors lying around for a few years. It was thrown out at work. Turns out it fits the base perfectly. Happy days.

Thanks for the dimbles tip Patsy, great idea!

Muckit

Doesnt one bit have a sq profile and the other goes into a point? Just look with your eyes!..... or just turn 180!

Muckit

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Also had this little trolley with castors lying around for a few years. It was thrown out at work.

Jaysus there should be a lad paid to stand beside the skip in yer place!

patsy_mccabe

Muckit wrote: »

Jaysus there should be a lad paid to stand beside the skip in yer place!

Funny but the day I bought that home, the brother goes "where are you going with that rubbish?". He asked me to collect some railway sleepers on the way home for the edging of a lawn. What did we use to unload them when we got home?

timple23

[IMG][/img]

anyone able to tell be how to remove that black "screw" , trying to remove radio from a New Holland

berettaman

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

God Woodies are serious ripoff merchants. Cattle broke the ballcock in the yard during the freeze. The lever part only broke. Happens every few years and I know B&Q sell it separately. Tried Woodies first as it's nearer. 16.50 for valve and lever, no ball. Fook that. Off to B&Q. 7.00 for valve with lever. Lever on its own 3.50. Even bought a spare.
How do Woodies stay open?

They stay open by fleecing the weekend warriors..:rolleyes:

stock>

Have you the two radio removal tools? silde out the radio then undo the screw..............

http://www.halfords.ie/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/fuses-electricals-fixings/halfords-stereo-removal-pins-din-type

jimini0

stock> wrote: »

Have you the two radio removal tools? silde out the radio then undo the screw..............

http://www.halfords.ie/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/fuses-electricals-fixings/halfords-stereo-removal-pins-din-type

Get yourself a metal coat hanger. Cut it to lengthy and bend into shape

Attie

timple23 wrote: »

[IMG][/img]

anyone able to tell be how to remove that black "screw" , trying to remove radio from a New Holland

There are 4 holes in the front of the radio special pins need to be inserted to release the clips as they are hidden.

TheFarrier

Anyone here ever cut railway track??
Have a few lengths around the yard that were for a shed that was never built years ago.
Was hoping to use them to hang gates but I'm not sure what's the best way to cut them.
Would hiring a consaw do or would I better getting a lad to cut them with an oxy acetylene torch??

Thanks

blue5000

TheFarrier wrote: »

Anyone here ever cut railway track??
Have a few lengths around the yard that were for a shed that was never built years ago.
Was hoping to use them to hang gates but I'm not sure what's the best way to cut them.
Would hiring a consaw do or would I better getting a lad to cut them with an oxy acetylene torch??

Thanks

There's a bit of a knack to it. Cut the top, where the train rolled, about 12mm deep, roll it over then cut the bottom same depth and as deep as you can in at each side where it's widest. Prop it up off the ground and hit the unsupported end with a sledge. Let us know if it works, I use a 9in grinder with a new disc, speaking of discs, mind your back when moving and lifting them.

patsy_mccabe

Speaking of railway girders, I managed to drill 20mm holes today on the flat wider side of railway girders I have in a shed. Didn't think I would be able to do it. Used a 20mm drill bit too.
Need the holes to hang a frame for lifting 500Kg feertiliser bags. Don't trust my welding on a railway girder.

charolais0153

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Speaking of railway girders, I managed to drill 20mm holes today on the flat wider side of railway girders I have in a shed. Didn't think I would be able to do it. Used a 20mm drill bit too.
Need the holes to hang a frame for lifting 500Kg feertiliser bags. Don't trust my welding on a railway girder.

Have you a pic of how youre going to lift them?

patsy_mccabe

charolais0153 wrote: »

Have you a pic of how youre going to lift them?

I'll throw up a pic when I have it done. Basically a braced channel frame with an eye bolt. On to the eye bolt, I'll hang a 1 tonne manual lifting chain hoist I got in Lidl for €60. Plan is to maybe get a valve for the bottom of the bag when I want to spread say half a bag. I can then let down the half bag for safety reasons when I'm not around.

longgonesilver

The iron in railway tracks is more like cast than normal iron. If The Farrier had asked a few weeks ago, I was told one time that you can crack them with a good belt of a sledge when they are frozen. I have never tried it.

They are normally cut with a torch, a cutting head works better. If you get someone to do it with a torch, get him to make holes in them too if you want them.

Patsy, you are right not to trust weld on rails, very hard to do it right. For safety make brackets that go right around the rail. Use your holes to stop them slipping down.

Maybe someone else would have experience of subjecting rails to sideways force, I don't .

patsy_mccabe

longgonesilver wrote: »

.....
Patsy, you are right not to trust weld on rails, very hard to do it right. For safety make brackets that go right around the rail. Use your holes to stop them slipping down.

Maybe someone else would have experience of subjecting rails to sideways force, I don't .

That's what I'm doing. I've long bolts that will bolts right across the girder. I've welded railway girder before for gate hanging irons and it's not an easy job. It's not like welding normal mild steel.

Reggie.

Weldy weldy

charolais0153

Reggie. wrote: »

Weldy weldy

What is it?

patsy_mccabe

Guys any tips on how to fillet weld?
I can weld edge to edge flat (butt weld) no problem but never mastered the welding of parts at 90deg to each other. I've looked at lots of videos on youtube but none seem to help. The only way I can do it is with 3 passes, the first two on each side and then the third bridging those two. If I try it in one pass, the weld sticks to one side or the other.
What am I doing wrong?

TheFarrier

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Guys any tips on how to fillet weld?
I can weld edge to edge flat (butt weld) no problem but never mastered the welding of parts at 90deg to each other. I've looked at lots of videos on youtube but none seem to help. The only way I can do it is with 3 passes, the first two on each side and then the third bridging those two. If I try it in one pass, the weld sticks to one side or the other.
What am I doing wrong?

I found that when I have the same issue it's usually caused by the angle I'm holding the rod. I try to hold the rod at 45 degrees and keep the tip well into the corner. Should weld both pieces then but if your rod is leaning more towards one piece or the other then your catching the opposing piece more

Bullocks

Reggie. wrote: »

Weldy weldy

Reggie ,you're such a tease ! Will you forget the "weldy weldy "bit and tell us what it's going to be ðŸ˜႒

Say my name

charolais0153 wrote: »

What is it?

It's a box to lock Reggie into to stop him buying more machinery.

The wife drew up the plans.
Poor Reggie thinks it's a chemical store.

Don't tell him though.

larthehar

TheFarrier wrote: »

I found that when I have the same issue it's usually caused by the angle I'm holding the rod. I try to hold the rod at 45 degrees and keep the tip well into the corner. Should weld both pieces then but if your rod is leaning more towards one piece or the other then your catching the opposing piece more

When a weld contracts it will pull the metal off perpendicular.. what i tend to do it slightly lie away from the side i am welding, tack weld, then the other side can be squared up and welded resulting in a square plane..

cjpm

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Guys any tips on how to fillet weld?
I can weld edge to edge flat (butt weld) no problem but never mastered the welding of parts at 90deg to each other. I've looked at lots of videos on youtube but none seem to help. The only way I can do it is with 3 passes, the first two on each side and then the third bridging those two. If I try it in one pass, the weld sticks to one side or the other.
What am I doing wrong?

Welder not turned up enough. Don't be afraid of having the steel glowing red after a run of weld (as long as it isn't thin enough to burn through....