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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

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Thinkingaboutit

There are likely a few Youtube vids, and first of all, what I can find out from taking a close look, but is unjamming one fork/cleaning, lubricating the other (switch missing, but even with a improvised one, it's still remains locked) on a Trek Marlin a reasonably easy job? I probably want to renew, clean and lubricate both to a good standard.

Thanks

CantGetNoSleep

I picked up a cheap bike that is maybe one size too small and the frame looks to be a generic copy with stickers put on, but has nice finishing kit, Mavic Ksyrium wheels in great condition, a 9sp Tiagra groupset that also looks well looked after.

I'm thinking of picking up a frame like this one
https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/cube-attain-frame-black-n-green-n-grey-693133

and switching the components over.

I know I'd need a new press fit BB - would the rest of the components fit? Would I need a new fork etc.?

Is this a stupid idea? I can do basic maintenance - indexing gears, setting up brakes etc but I've never swapped over a full groupset or done a build myself

gaffmaster

My first thought is... try a longer stem? Could save you a few quid and a lot of hassle.

On the other hand, if you have the time, I say go for it! You'll need some specific BB tools and stuff, but if you get stuck you can always get your local bike shop to help out.

Don't forget to factor in the price of bar tape / cables and outers / seatpost (if different diameter) etc.

CantGetNoSleep

gaffmaster wrote: »

My first thought is... try a longer stem? Could save you a few quid and a lot of hassle.

On the other hand, if you have the time, I say go for it! You'll need some specific BB tools and stuff, but if you get stuck you can always get your local bike shop to help out.

Don't forget to factor in the price of bar tape / cables and outers / seatpost (if different diameter) etc.

Thanks - yes looks like seat post might not be standard, and I worry about running into problems with the BB and headset. I'll take it for a long ride tomorrow and decide then, it's a 52cm when all my other bikes are 54 so it might be just about doable (the saddle needs to be lowered too, whoever had it before must have been taller than me)

CantGetNoSleep

Me again - I got a pair of Mavic Ksyrium Equipe wheels on a second hand bike I picked up. They are relatively new (I'd guess less than three years), with a Shimano 9-speed cassette. What are the chances I can just swap a 10-speed cassette on?

[Deleted User]

I assume it's got 9 speed shifters to match? I've never actually tried to use a 10 cassette on 9 speed shifters, would it just ignore the top or bottom of the cassette? Chain could be an issue too.

CramCycle

If it is as Enfalide says, you have a 10 speed cassette lying around and want to get moving quickly, alas no, AFAIK, different spacing. One or two gears will work OK but the rest will just rub like crazy, jump up and down, and be a general pain in the hoop. Cost you alot more in the long run.

Unless we are both wrong, you want to take the wheels off and put them on a 10speed bike and put a 10 speed cassette on, in that case they should be fine if they are less than 4 years old

CantGetNoSleep

Sorry should have been clearer. The Mavic wheels are on a 9-speed Tiagra bike at the moment - I have another ten speed bike but the wheels are a bit knackered - I'd like to swap over cassettes, put the 10-speed cassette on the Mavic wheels, and use these on the 10 Speed bike (so shifters etc. are ok, just worried about spacing / the hubs being ok for 10 speed)

CramCycle

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

Sorry should have been clearer. The Mavic wheels are on a 9-speed Tiagra bike at the moment - I have another ten speed bike but the wheels are a bit knackered - I'd like to swap over cassettes, put the 10-speed cassette on the Mavic wheels, and use these on the 10 Speed bike (so shifters etc. are ok, just worried about spacing / the hubs being ok for 10 speed)

That should be fine, you may need a spacer for the 10 speed, which may already be on your older wheels. They are cheap enough to get if you don't have one.

8valve

all mavic hubs manufactured for the last 5 years can take 7/8/9/10/11 cassettes, according to mavic, whose wheels we sell in work...just use spacers accordingly.

for those of you reeling in horror at how someone could manage with only 7, 8 or 9 sprockets on a cassette...I like to use modern wheels on old steel racing bikes as part of neo-retro restorations...best of both worlds.

Old school cool frame with reliable modern mechanicals.

Type 17

8valve wrote: »

...for those of you reeling in horror at how someone could manage with only 7, 8 or 9 sprockets on a cassette...I like to use modern wheels on old steel racing bikes as part of neo-retro restorations...best of both worlds.

Old school cool frame with reliable modern mechanicals.

Damn straight - I work in a bike shop that sells & services mostly commuter and "around town" bikes, and our biggest-selling cassettes are 8 & 9 speed, with plenty of 7 (& some 6)-speed freewheels being fitted each week too.

CantGetNoSleep

Thanks guys for the help - I'm assuming they are less than 5 years old as they look it, and I have older Ksyriums from 2010 or so which have different decals. Having looked it up I'll need two spacers - a 1mm Shimano and a 1.75mm Mavic one (which was already on with the 9-speed cassette but broken). I've ordered both so should get it done in the next few days.

LollipopJimmy

I needed a spacer and Eurocycles had them in stock. The guy charged me a euro for a couple

CramCycle

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

I needed a spacer and Eurocycles had them in stock. The guy charged me a euro for a couple

+1 eurocycles are quite good for such things, and one of the few bikeshops that seem to hold such stuff in stock.

triggermortis

My latest project is to juggle the groupsets on two bikes. My commuter front mech has given up totally (broken spring) and is an old Sora triple, with thumb shifters.
My winter bike has a truvativ crank and tiagra shifters.
I previously replaced the bottom bracket on the triple - easy enough to ID as there was a number stamped on it. The winter bike BB has no markings. Both bikes are hollowtech external bottom brackets, so is a reasonable enough assumption that I can leave each BB where it is?
I intend to put the winter bikes groupset onto the commuter and replace the parts on the winter bike with upgraded Ultegra/105 parts.
I could just see if the cranks I have will physically fit onto the other bike, but this would leave me without a bike short term. I don't have all the parts I need yet, although if the cranks do swap over, I could do 80% of one swap.
I can measure the external width of the bottom brackets tomorrow, which should give me a better idea before I dismantle anything, but was wondering if anyone would have an answer to give me something to think about while I'm in work..

magicbastarder

i've seen a couple of aldi stores with 3in1 motorbike chain specific products - a cleaner, a lube, and a wax. worth a punt for a bike? or do they have to worry less about crud getting on the chain?

Type 17

Not suitable for bikes - motorbike chains run at much higher speeds, so their lubricants are "anti-fling", and the whole bike runs much faster and generates much more wheel-spray, so they are much thicker and water resistant - however, on a bicycle chain, they act like treacle and attract loads of dirt, and are really hard to clean.

I get them into the shop for service now and again, and it's like dried glue (and the owners think that the chain is still lubricated, because the outside of the links is still encrusted, whereas in fact the inside of the chain, where it counts, is dry and the chain is often worn out).

magicbastarder

realised today that my disc brakes were contaminated - bit of a squeal and performance was noticeably off.
so i've just sanded the discs for the first time. i'm used to sanding the pads occasionally, but the circular light score marks on the discs were showing a slight darkness to them, which i guess was the contamination. anyway, a wet sand with 320 grit paper, using degreaser as a lubricating agent seems to have helped - even when wet, they seem to be grippier than they were earlier in the dry.

Milk_Tray

guys im looking at a set of carbon race wheels but they are tubular. I am a bit old school and only used to clinchers. Ive read a bit that these are a nightmare to change but have its advantages in terms of speed etc. If I was to get a flat mid race would I be goosed? Obviously with clinchers just carrying a tube is easy in the saddle bag, should I avoid these or suck it up and go for it as the advantage of a tubular being worth it?

07Lapierre

Milk_Tray wrote: »

guys im looking at a set of carbon race wheels but they are tubular. I am a bit old school and only used to clinchers. Ive read a bit that these are a nightmare to change but have its advantages in terms of speed etc. If I was to get a flat mid race would I be goosed? Obviously with clinchers just carrying a tube is easy in the saddle bag, should I avoid these or suck it up and go for it as the advantage of a tubular being worth it?

https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2057835490

triggermortis

Fitted new brake pads to my good bike today. It’s not been used for a few months and sat in the shed.
The freehub doesn’t run smoothly now, so I obviously didn’t clean it too well after the last time I used it.
I removed the wheel and the hub seemed normal, but with it back on the bike, it doesn’t run if I back pedal. Is there much to cleaning and lubricating this? Not messed with one before.
Wheel is a DT Swiss R23 spline

07Lapierre

triggermortis wrote: »

Fitted new brake pads to my good bike today. It’s not been used for a few months and sat in the shed.
The freehub doesn’t run smoothly now, so I obviously didn’t clean it too well after the last time I used it.
I removed the wheel and the hub seemed normal, but with it back on the bike, it doesn’t run if I back pedal. Is there much to cleaning and lubricating this? Not messed with one before.
Wheel is a DT Swiss R23 spline

Go for a spin on the bike...I'd say it'll free itself. If not, do you have a chain whip and a cassette lock nut tool? (You'll need these to remove the cassette)

triggermortis

07Lapierre wrote: »

Go for a spin on the bike...I'd say it'll free itself. If not, do you have a chain whip and a cassette lock nut tool? (You'll need these to remove the cassette)

I did ride it around the garden a bit and it got slightly better, but not great. I'll have another look at it today and see what I can find. With the wheel off, the hub seemed ok but I'll remove the cassette for a better look

68 lost souls

The bottle cage bolts are rattling like mad on my down tube, 2013 trek madone 2.1. I think the encapsulated bolt is loose and shaking in the frame, anything I can do? Whenever I put a bottle in the cage it rattles like mad and is very annoying.

CramCycle

68 lost souls wrote: »

The bottle cage bolts are rattling like mad on my down tube, 2013 trek madone 2.1. I think the encapsulated bolt is loose and shaking in the frame, anything I can do? Whenever I put a bottle in the cage it rattles like mad and is very annoying.

Unscrew the bolt and then get a nut about a size bigger and place it over the hole. If the bolt you have is long enough, thread it through again. The nut acts like a brace to stop it spinning and it should pull the other end of the thread back against the frame and tighten it up. Same happened to mine a year ago.

magicbastarder

would a washer do a similar job?

68 lost souls

CramCycle wrote: »

Unscrew the bolt and then get a nut about a size bigger and place it over the hole. If the bolt you have is long enough, thread it through again. The nut acts like a brace to stop it spinning and it should pull the other end of the thread back against the frame and tighten it up. Same happened to mine a year ago.

I'll give it a go thanks, I believe the issue is caused by using stiff bottle cages from what I've read, I've carbon cages on mine the last couple of years.

CramCycle

magicbastarder wrote: »

would a washer do a similar job?

The idea of the nut is you can hold it with a spanner to stop it spinning as the plating above the surface of the frame will spin as well.

Type 17

Bottle cage bolts are actually rivet nuts (also known by a trademark name, Rivnut) - have a look at them on Google images to understand more about how they work, and how you can re-set them if they've become loose.

Tip: Grease the bottle cage bolts before you fit them (and remove them and do it if now you didn't do it before) - Rivnuts are often made from aluminium, and when road-spray gets into the threads, the steel (or even alloy) bolt & the rivnut sieze together and then the rivnut spins when you try to open the bolt.

Crocked

Has anyone paired etap levers with 105 brakes? Wondering if the performance is horrendous or if they'll work the same as when mated to 105 levers.