illdoit2morrow wrote: » I'm in a similar situation to yourself albeit I've got the nest installed. The ber assessment needs to be done independently of the person who completed your upgrade, just check that this is the case with your quote.
illdoit2morrow wrote: » micks_address wrote: » Yes we probably will be getting the grant anyway as are not that far off the requirements for it, just need a few more trvs ons rads and to update the earth to the cylinder. His quote will include a ber assessment to get the grant. Will know more tomorrow. He is a nest pro installer so id be happy for the job to be complete in one, if there any issues with any of the system he can support the nest boiler/plumbing. Will depend largely on the quote as if its significantly more than the electric Ireland costs I may still go with them. Thanks, Mick I'm in a similar situation to yourself albeit I've got the nest installed. The ber assessment needs to be done independently of the person who completed your upgrade, just check that this is the case with your quote.
micks_address wrote: » Yes we probably will be getting the grant anyway as are not that far off the requirements for it, just need a few more trvs ons rads and to update the earth to the cylinder. His quote will include a ber assessment to get the grant. Will know more tomorrow. He is a nest pro installer so id be happy for the job to be complete in one, if there any issues with any of the system he can support the nest boiler/plumbing. Will depend largely on the quote as if its significantly more than the electric Ireland costs I may still go with them. Thanks, Mick
judeboy101 wrote: » Will a smart heating systems make any diff to a ber on its own?
deezell wrote: » No, ber is just a measure of energy efficiency, heat loss or insulation. Seems odd to require one for heating controls, which are about making savings by heating zones rather than the entire house at any given time. I wonder is a minimum ber required for the grant? An inefficient house will still be inefficient after smart controls, except you can control the wasted heat better.
micks_address wrote: » You need a ber rating is required to get the grant.. I've never had one done so curious to see what the house is..
budhabob wrote: » The BER assessment isn't a very accurate or scientific approach, but its an indicator.
matrim wrote: » Our house went from a C2 when we bought it to a D2 after getting a new more efficient heating system put it a year later
fletch wrote: » When was your initial assessment done? The assessment I got for mine (on a new build) wasn't even carried out on a house in my housing estate!
matrim wrote: » The first one was in early 2016, the new one around November 2017. The second guy basically said that he didn't have proof of our insulation so would have to count it as none and that the original didn't count the fact our neighbour is an office instead of a house. We called the original guy and asked if he had proof of the insulation from his calculation and he said "I stand by my numbers and will give you a C2 again if you want". Basically making me think the whole thing is a joke.
Dermobrickie wrote: » I no this was probably covered 100 times but could somebody tell me the best set for my house, It's a new build wit oil and stove with back boiler. Two zones rads and hot water, but would like the option of third zone for attic in future. What stat do I put on stove? Which thermostat would suit me best nest/hive neatamo?
AppleKidd wrote: » Hi, I'm thinking of upgrading to a nest thermostat. At current, I've a basic on/off / timer switch. When I turn my heating the water tanks heat up. Well, the nest thermostat do the same thing when it's on? Thanks in advance
deezell wrote: » Yes, if you don't have independent hot water heating the Nest is not going to add this. If your basic timer has a HW/ CH switch, then it should be possible to wire up accordingly. In many installations the difference in the two is that the HW setting disconnects the circulation pump, with the HW heated by gravity from the boiler. This is a very basic method, but some installs don't even have this, with HW and CH always on together. The Nest will give you timed temperature control of the CH, it also has a relay for HW timing, but you would need zone valves installed to seperate the two. If you had HW heating by gravity ( convection), then HW timing relay could be used to cut the circulation pump to mimic HW only time interval, but this would be a bodge at best. PS, see previous post for possible sale of brand new unused Nest!
AppleKidd wrote: » Okay, I don't have any independent hot water heating. its just when the heating goes on the water starts to heat up in the tank. So I should be good with the Nest.
RoryW wrote: » Plumber recommending Heat Miser over Nest Hive or Honeywell Comments welcomed Thanks
Mr.Crinklewood wrote: » Anyone used the "Hub Controller" heating system?https://www.thehubcontroller.com/ They seemed to have some free offer in The Square in Tallaght yesterday, I was with there for work so didn't have time to check things out. Just wondering if it was any good and what the catch was with the free offer?
deezell wrote: » I can't find any reference to it for free in a Google search. It's €249 to buy and self install which puts it right up there price wise, yet there's no mention of HW control, no Opentherm for advanced boilers, no Alexa, Google home , Apple homekit or IFTTT integration. It's a simple device at an advanced price. It doesn't need a bridge to connect to the router, meaning it uses standard Wi-Fi. Battery powered stats normally use a very lo power radio link to their router hub/ bridge in order to get reasonable life. Nest uses normal WiFi and requires either a small phone style charger or power down the wires from it's heatlink box. This stat uses a battery, but it's rechargeable. How does it stay charged? My guess is it siphons power from the open circuit voltage of the heating relay. When the boiler is off, in a 2 wire system there will be 220v ( or possibly 24v dc) across the contacts. This can be used to power a charging circuit. When the contacts are closed it goes to battery power. As closed contacts means the boiler is firing, this period will only be in short bursts, battery charging resuming when the contacts open. Very clever. I had contemplated bodging something like this for my Tado, if battery life became an issue.
Mr.Crinklewood wrote: » Free offer here@HUBController: We're going to be in The Square #Tallaght all day tomorrow signing up people for a free Hub Controller Smart Thermostat! #SmartThermostat #Dublin #smarthome #energysaving #energyefficient Make sure to drop by, say hello & sign up! https://www.thehubcontroller.com/trial https://twitter.com/HUBController/status/971805753924378624/photo/1 Think I saw a previous tweet about Alexa functionality
Fr_Dougal wrote: » Am thinking of getting the Nest installed. Have recently had a new boiler fitted, 3 zones, upstairs, downstairs, and hot water. Have a couple of questions, can the h/w stay linked to the heating programmer and run on a timed schedule, with the Nests controlling the two heating zones independently? Can a Nest thermostat be installed to replace one of my existing stats and be run off the existing programmer? Was thinking of doing a trial run with this setup. If I decide to go the whole hog and install a Nest thermostat to control the h/w, is that another Nest thermostat attached to the cylinder in the hot press? Or is it a different type thermostat? Thanks!
deezell wrote: » HW can stay on the existing timer, but each nest stat has a relay box, the heatlink, with 2 relays which can control timing for HW and CH, so you might as well use it.Temperature of the HW will be controlled by an ordinary cylinder stat if fitted. The nest stat itself controls timing and temperature of its zone. When you replace your existing stat with a nest, you set your existing zone timer to Continually On as the nest now takes over timing. You will need a second Nest stat for the second CH zone, though you could leave the original timer and stat for this until later . As I said the HW timing relay comes within the Nest heatlink box, no need to buy anything extra. If you currently have an ordinary mechanical cylinder stat, this remains and is wired in series with the heatlink HW relay. If your current system had no cylinder stat then HW control is just timed, but you can install a mechanical stat on the cylinder, about €15 worth. If you choose to wire the heatlink HW relay in, the the old HW timer is set to Continually on, same as the zones.
Fr_Dougal wrote: » Do I have to use the Heatlink relay/box, or can I just swap the old stat for the Nest stat?
GaryCocs wrote: » Any recommendations for a HW digital stat? Would be great to track this as well as upstairs/downstairs heat.