clemop wrote: » Sorry, just noticed the last sentence. If the boiler was getting hot but no hot water going to radiators then it could be that the boiler was getting demand for hot water, not heating (I'm assuming you've a hot water only setting).
adam88 wrote: » Am I right I’m saying that the timer box doesn’t turn on the boiler but opens the valve that in turn starts the boiler as a sort of in demand system
adam88 wrote: » My diy skills don’t stretch that far. I’ll have to call in help lol. Is it a plumber or a boiler technician that I need. As I’m sitting here it’s just after kicking in again, the 3 zone electronic timer is saying everything is off but the downstairs rads are all on. If I flip the switch at the fuse box should that sort things out and then things off for the nite. ALSO **** when I did that last time and turned the power back on the boiler got hot but wasn’t heating the radiators until I turned on the timer. Does that make any difference to what yere thinking
clemop wrote: » It's unlikely to be the valve itself at fault, although it's possible. It's more likely to be the actuator that turns the valve open and closed. They're mechanical so they do break down. If it's like mine - Sunvic/Danfloss - you can remove them from the valve housing by unscrewing the two large screws on opposite corners. The wiring will remain intact but you can check if the actuator is opening and closing when you turning the heating on and off. A replacement actuator cost me about €75 but you'd have to be comfortable to wire it into the heating controls.
adam88 wrote: » If it’s the valve that’s stuck, what will it set me back to get it fixed??? Am I better off getting a plumber or a boiler technician ??
adam88 wrote: » Hi. I’ve recently moved into a new house and there an indoor boiler in the kitchen, it’s zoned and and an eltronic time which was working well. Last nite I turned off the heating and went to bed and woke up and downstairs was like a furnace. No matter what buttons I press on the timer it won’t turn off. Only way of turning it off is by flipping the fuse switch. Any idea what could be wrong, it’s a firebird boiler if that’s any use. Any help would be appreciated. I’m new to the area and don’t have a clue if any good plumbers or electricians
meercat wrote: » The boiler stat will turn it off
Cerco wrote: » Do frost stat set ups have another stat that cuts off heating when the temp hits a set value to prevent boiler running continously? Thought I heard this somewhere.
meercat wrote: » I’d normally wire a frost stat to open the downstairs heating zone so the pump would circulate
delly wrote: » I think so. The downstairs valve would normally be by the boiler as the pipework doesn't need to go upstairs. It's possible the frost stat is causing it to run, but I don't see why it would turn on the downstairs zone if that was the case, but then again every system has a different logic.
adam88 wrote: » I dont know. I’d have to go digging for to see if there’s one beside the boiler. As it stands rite now my electronic timer is set to off for all three zones, the two white boxes in the hot press are not lit up (presume they’re off) the upstairs roads are cooling down. The downstairs roads are red hot and I can hear the boiler kicking in every now and again. Would that make sense with a stuck valve ??
delly wrote: » Is there a third valve somewhere else, maybe at the boiler?
delly wrote: » But would that turn on a zone in doing so?
meercat wrote: » Gary 71 says the frost stat which I’d go along with Don’t go removing or adjusting anything until the outside temp rises and you can then check it out You could remove the fuse at the spur switch if you really want to turn boiler off
adam88 wrote: » That’s what’s in my hot press. I’ve now turned the electronic timer box off for all three zones. I’ve tried to move the little metal thing but there’s resistance against them. Also to note I can still hear the boiler in the kitchen turning on for a few mins as if the heating is switched on
adam88 wrote: » What really alarmed me was the eltronic timer box showed all the heating zones were off but yet the downstairs heating was on despite the timer box saying it should be off
delly wrote: » Ok, great. Just to correct what I mean by bottom, I mean the bit on the middle left of the pic, on mine they are at the bottom. If you move it over now, it will have no effect if the zones are on and you will see how easy they move over. They are used to open a zone if you unit fails, so you will feel resistance of the motor if it is off. The theory above is that although you have switched the zone off, it is stuck in the open position and will continually call for heat.
adam88 wrote: » I’ve two of them in the hot press. Both lights are on atm. The heating system is working now as I turned back in the switch and turned all zones on. I’ll have to wait till tonight when I’m going to bed to turn off the heating and see if they move
delly wrote: » I had this exact same issue a while back, causing the same problem. OP, do you have anything similar to the below? If so, an easy way to check is to pull over the metal bar sticking out of the bottom. If you feel no resistance and the zone is off, then the actual valve is stuck in the open position.
