micks_address wrote: » Bought from here:https://shop.electricireland.ie/products/install-detail/nest-thermostat They ask a question is you are an existing customer to which I said no... It did ask for my mprn number which I put in.. I was curious myself but there is nothing I seen that you have to be a customer to avail of the offer.. I have a confirmation email with appointment and payment details etc
fletch wrote: » I can't see them honouring it given the Nest is ~€250 to buy separately
micks_address wrote: » I purchased nest on the electric Ireland Web site last night as a non existing customer for 130 including installation. I assume there's no problems no being a customer of theirs. Installation booked for March 9th. Want to have boiler sorted by then. Thanks, Mick
deezell wrote: » Unfortunately they've just signed up to Bord gais. Bord gais are doing the hive smart stat free though. It has all the usual smart features, app, schedules, geolocation. It doesn't have the learning function of Nest or Tado, or the TRV option of Tado. Ugly looking compared to the nest or tado, but functional. The Viessmann boiler you're installing has separate flow and returns for hw and central heating, with an inbuilt pump and diverter valve, so it depends on your current HW cylinder layout as to how much plumbing will be involved in connecting the new boiler to the system to achive seperate HW. The installer might just want to substitute for your old system and just use the heating flow and return and cap the separate HW ones, but you should insist on having both connected. With this done you can connect the stat to seperately control HW and heating. The nest stat ( or Hive or Tado) can be used to time the HW supply to the cylinder and to separately control the heating. Nest or Tado have OpenTherm connectors which can connect to the OpenTherm connectors on the boiler to give digital connection from boiler to stat, which may give access to higher level control such as modulated burning and HW temperature control and feedback. I'd advise having the plumber inspect the install instruction for the boiler which I'm assuming is the Viessmann Vitodens 100W B1HC range. He can then inspect your system to see how it is currently plumbed and how much work is required to connect the flow/return to the HW cylinder directly from the boiler. He may recommend just adding a zone valve to the existing system and controlling that from the smart stat. The boiler wiring diagrams show this as an option. This is the installation instructions for this model;https://viessmanndirect.co.uk/files//41f55e07-987c-4d32-a6e1-a5df0136110d/B1KC%20B1HC%20Installation%20and%20Servicing.pdf
micks_address wrote: » Looks like electric Ireland will supply and install nest for 130 euro?
micks_address wrote: » Hi folks, We have Google home and phillips hue. Some tplink smart plugs to. Our gas boiler is being replaced soon with a viessmann condenser system boiler. We have one zone in that the boiler heats the water and rads all at the same time. We have no way to isolate and only heat water which is a pity. Not sure how easy it would be to change that given the existing plumbing. Thinking of going with a nest thermostat and wondering if there will be any issues. We have a really old thermostat on the wall that I think may have been used for older oil installation. We wouldn't want the nest there anyway as we have stove in the room downstairs which would mean the rest of the house be cold. The stat wouldn't get a accurate reading. Thinking of having the nest on a stand in our bedroom for now. I suppose questions are would there be any issues with having nest with viessmann and would there be easy way to have stat control hot water and temp of rads separately? Also is amazon best bet for nest? I'm concerned our plumber might not be technical enough to fit so are there companies that would supply and fit cheaper than buying separately? We just signed up with board gas for gas and electricity. Thanks, Mick
tweek84 wrote: » Is there any smart trv that can be controlled with alexa that doesn't require a hub? Or what are my options?
deezell wrote: » Wiggled another £10 discount? £49 is about €55-56
viperlogic wrote: » How was it only €55? They usually £59
skerry wrote: » Thanks, have the bridge from purchase of Smart stat for downstairs zone before Christmas. Got TRV on its own for E55 on Amazon last night so happy with that price.
viperlogic wrote: » Don't forget to get the Tado Bridge
deezell wrote: » Wake up now and pay attention! Smart TRV can operate independently as it's own zone to control the temperature in a room. It will operate like a normal mechanical TRV in that it closes the valve when room temperature reaches target, opens It when below. It will have its own page on the app, and all the usual settings apply. It can also call the boiler as it is linked to the main stat. A single TRV in a zone of non TRV radiators will of course cause these radiators to heat if it calls for heat. It will be independent of the zone stat however in terms of controlling the temperature of that room. As you are putting in a bedroom zone stat, this is the one the TRV will be linked to. When you add a TRV to the Tado app as a seperate zone, it also appears as a device in the stat zone where it will link to fire the boiler. Now from previous reading on this I believe the TRV will "take to " your primary stat, the living room one, so you will need to contact tado support to have it's call for heat linked to the new upstairs stat. The upstairs stat will still operate as a general stat for the zone, but the TRV wil control that room specifically. If you require other rooms in a zone to be off while a TRV controlled one is calling the boiler, you must fit these with TRVs also. A second method is to add a TRV into a stat zone, where it just opens and closes at the behest of the stat settings. This would just leave you in the same situation, but is a configuration that is used when there is a TRV radiator in the same space as the main stat. One other thing, the valve body on the rad must be of a TRV type, press down pin as against a screw type valve. I'm guessing that this bedroom didn't have a mechanical TRV, or you would have used it to cap the room temperature, so it's a small-ish plumbing job to swap out a screw valve body for a trv valve body, onto which the Tado TRV head fits.
skerry wrote: » So, I justified a Smart TRV purchase after all. The little ones room is above the kitchen so is always too hot and rest of upstairs rooms can get quite cold over the night so not ideal. She had a temp last night so, bleary eyed with lack of sleep, I convinced myself that a Smart TRV in babies room will absolutely solve this problem and whipped out the phone and bought one Have a Smart Stat on the way for upstairs too but in all likelihood might be a couple of weeks before I get this installed so would like to set up Smart TRV to control little ones room in the meantime. Can this be operated independently of a Smart stat? I'm presuming in my situation it will just give better control by closing her rad down better when temp reached and letting other rads stay on. I read that the TRV can call for heat from the boiler independently? Just wondering how this is achieved, is it through communicating with a Tado wall Stat? Also I presume in a case where the room with smart TRV is colder and calling for heat, that all other rads in that zone will heat also unless I have Smart TRVs on all the rads I'm using? Probably some obvious questions above but first experience with smart TRV and after convincing the missus in our sleep deprived state last night that this will solve our woes I need to sound like I know what I'm talking about
deezell wrote: » Yes, cylinder stat will close the HW valve when temperature is reached but the boiler must be fired only from it's zone valve so that the boiler turns off. If you have a system where all the zone valves could be closed but the boiler could still fire from some direct switch as it was not fired exclusively from the zone valve contacts, you could have a situation where the boiler had no bypass, no water circuit. The older plumbing scenario where the cylinder is always open to the boiler is common enough, but gives less control. if you go for the extension kit (10% off on amazon?), you will have a timer for the HW, plus you can optionally make one of you stats wireless back to its zone valve, using the stat contacts on the extension kit, allowing you to relocate that stat without house wiring.
skerry wrote: » Thanks Deezell, That's as I thought so, if I have the smart stats installed then no need for 3 zone timer. I think he's just not familiar with the smart stat functionality and this is what I was trying to explain to him. HW zone has its own zone valve and I only got this functioning again yesterday. There is a cylinder stat on the tank which spark explained is basic metal contact type which shuts off the HW once it reaches temp so it doesn't over heat. Is this sufficient to give me heat control once I get around to getting the Extension kit to allow me timer functionality for HW? I'll pounce on that additional Smart stat so as £89 is the cheapest I've seen since you put me onto the used Tado stats on Maplin a while back were I got the starter kit for £79. I only remembered after I posted that you had mentioned a while back that the homekit integration on the bridge was only difference between V2 and V3. Hoping its a simple swap out for the basic dial stat that's currently on the landing.
deezell wrote: » If your heating is only controlled by ordinary stats it's normal to have a timer. Your sparks probably isn't aware that the timer function is inherent in the smart Tado stat. He specifies 3 zones so I assume your hot water is on the system. Does it have its own zone valve? Is it currently switched by a ordinary stat on the cylinder? I'm guessing you hot water heats only if you turn on the boiler with the spur switch. With the switch on, If you turn down the stats to turn off the heating , does the boiler continue to heat the HW and fire on and off intermittently? It's possible to leave a boiler in this configuration, with the boiler under control of its own internal stat, always filled with hot water, which then just transfers to the cylinder by gravity or by the boiler pump. If you want the boiler to fire for HW as well as for the two zones, you can get the tado extension kit wired into the system. If there is a HW motorised valve, the ext kit HW contacts are wired to this and all three valves then fire the boiler. if the HW is just heated by being plumbed directly to the boiler, gravity or on the pumped circuit, its still possible to wire the extension kit directly to the "call from heat" live from the two heating zone valves. This will give you three timers on your app, one each for the heating and a timer for the HW. You can insert a cylinder stat in series with the HW call for heat to give HW temperature control. The difference in the system if the HW does not have a valve is that it will heat whenever the boiler is on, any heating zone or its own timer call. This is not a huge issue, though there are some plumbing considerations in this layout. Having it's own zone valve means all three zones are independent of each other. The only difference between V2 and V3 is the bridge. the stats are identical. V3 bridge is upgraded to allow direct connection to Apple homekit.
skerry wrote: » Tado folks - thinking of picking up a second Smart Stat today for upstairs zone to replace the basic dial stat on the wall. Can get the below stat on Amazon for £89 today cos Amazon offering £10 off today only. Can anyone who's got additional stat recently confirm if the below linked stat is V3 or V2, its not mentioned in description.https://www.amazon.co.uk/tado%C2%B0-additional-Smart-Thermostat-intelligent/dp/B01BWUH8W4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1516875740&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=tado+smart+thermostat&psc=1 Also, I had a spark out yesterday whose gonna come back in a few weeks to wire up my system better as currently the orange/ grey wires to call boiler from zone valves don't seem to be wired. My heating it switched on by the usual spur switch near boiler and controlled by upstairs and downstairs stats (downstairs is Tado and upstairs will soon also be Tado). He maintains I need a 3 zone timer near the boiler also which doesn't make sense to me as I though Tado stats are for this exact function. He's not familiar with Tado. Can anyone confirm if he's right or wrong?