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Labour Saving and General Guntering

emaherx

How about using this thread to show off our engineering skills (or lack of!)
A lot of us have home made or improvised labour saving tools / implements lying around. Similar to stuff in Farmers Journal labour saving compettions. (without the prize money:p).

Maybe we could use this thread to share interesting ideas and discuss improvements.

I don't have any pictures at the moment of my own but I will take some at the weekend if not before.

My own projects include:
Quick hitch for front loader (fairly rough but works), designed to fit Trima implements onto MF loader.
Adapter to fit bale lifter onto front loader.
Various other loader attachments spikes etc.

Current project is a wrapped bale transporter being built out of remains of an old Muck Spreader. (only just started, currently just an axle and draw bar).

Their maybe other stuff around too, I'll have to have a look.

So what are peoples opinions, is this a good idea for a thread?

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Base price

OH has been busy making gates (in the feed barriers) to move calves in and out of the pens in the slatted unit. Still more work to be done filling in the triangles made when the barriers were cut and refitting the timbers. Lots of painting in store.

Base price

Base price wrote: »

The other thing is we made two holes rather than cutting out one large hole in the center. This helped the barrel to hold its shape and not collapse. I will take a pic tomorrow.

Here is one that we used last year. We originally started to cut out the centre but decided not too have way through the job. It worked well as a drinker and was placed between two pens, but there was too much volume of water for the calves to keep it fresh, iykwim.

zetecescort

Didnt somebody here have a yard scraper on a golf cart or mower? Could do similar just change the angle of the pusher

emaherx

Nekarsulm wrote: »

https://mobile.twitter.com/peter_cags/status/950496829392805888/video/1

Is it my turn to push in the silage?

Muckit

Great job but you want a door at both ends of shed!

Nekarsulm

trg wrote: »

Hey, does anyone have a pic of a homemade silage pusher that works well on a front grab or the back lift arms? Would appreciate it, thanks in advance

https://mobile.twitter.com/peter_cags/status/950496829392805888/video/1

mayota

TheFarrier wrote: »

I often use a magnet from a cb radio mount inside a light plastic tub. Pick up filings, hold tub over bin, pull out magnet and filings drop away.

And there’s me trying to over complicate it! Thanks lads for the tips.

Reggie.

mayota wrote: »

Making some calf pens here. Anyone know if a cheap electromagnet could be made to pick up metal filings ?

Just sweep them up

The Rabbi

TheFarrier wrote: »

I often use a magnet from a cb radio mount inside a light plastic tub. Pick up filings, hold tub over bin, pull out magnet and filings drop away.

Round magnet from broken amber beacon or trailer lights in cap of aerosol can with thread tied to magnet to whip it out fast over scrap container.If you had a magdrill in a container it would be contractor scale.

Kevhog1988

TheFarrier wrote: »

I often use a magnet from a cb radio mount inside a light plastic tub. Pick up filings, hold tub over bin, pull out magnet and filings drop away.

Cloth will do the same thing

mycro2013

SuperTortoise wrote: »

Massive overkill, as said above 40 or 50mm box 3mm wall is plenty, i have doors hanging here that are lighter than that even and never had a problem.

Edit: Just read your second comment, if you're making it for them and they're paying for it then make it to the spec they want, but factor in extra runners for the extra weight and the hastle of standing something that heavy!

I've made them here for numerous farmers and always use 50mm galvanised pipe. With the top section made from angle to allow door adjustment when fitting the door rollers.

TheFarrier

ganmo wrote: »

They're permanent magnets

I often use a magnet from a cb radio mount inside a light plastic tub. Pick up filings, hold tub over bin, pull out magnet and filings drop away.

ganmo

theemigrant wrote: »

Nice Job,

Use an old speaker from a car maybe???

They're permanent magnets

Kevhog1988

mayota wrote: »

Making some calf pens here. Anyone know if a cheap electromagnet could be made to pick up metal filings ?

Nice Job,

Use an old speaker from a car maybe???

ganmo

mayota wrote: »

Making some calf pens here. Anyone know if a cheap electromagnet could be made to pick up metal filings ?

9v battery bit of insulated wire and a piece of iron

wrap the wire around the iron lots of times and connect each end to the battery

mayota

Making some calf pens here. Anyone know if a cheap electromagnet could be made to pick up metal filings ?

Buford T. Justice XIX

I just came across a different silage pusher for the guntering gang in here.

https://twitter.com/peter_cags/status/950657264033193984

5 wheel drive

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

That's a fine looking tyre. Did it have an accident or what?

No I’ve just loads of money, haha.

Ya got it off a lad where the stabilizer off the linkage arm came off and went through the side wall. Tyre only on a week when it happened. Sick.

TheFarrier

SuperTortoise wrote: »

Massive overkill, as said above 40 or 50mm box 3mm wall is plenty, i have doors hanging here that are lighter than that even and never had a problem.

Edit: Just read your second comment, if you're making it for them and they're paying for it then make it to the spec they want, but factor in extra runners for the extra weight and the hastle of standing something that heavy!

Thanks for your reply. There was nothing specified only to "make it f#$%ing strong enough".

Steel for it landed today 50x50x3mm box.

Tbh I'd never made a door any bigger than a garage door and had assumed that section would have to increase with scale. After the replies got here the main thing that led me to get the 50mm was the thoughts of trying to hang the thing.

patsy_mccabe

That's a fine looking tyre. Did it have an accident or what?

5 wheel drive

trg wrote: »

Hey, does anyone have a pic of a homemade silage pusher that works well on a front grab or the back lift arms? Would appreciate it, thanks in advance

Here it is. The bottom row of tones on silage grab go in throu the slot and then the wheel turns against the weight of the silage. Works perfect for us.

SuperTortoise

TheFarrier wrote: »

I must make a sliding door to allow the loader access to the calving shed from the yard with out going through the slats.

Door will be 9 feet wide and 12 feet high.

Is 80mm box enough for this?? Thinking with a 4 or 5mm wall in it.

Any advice much appreciated

Massive overkill, as said above 40 or 50mm box 3mm wall is plenty, i have doors hanging here that are lighter than that even and never had a problem.

Edit: Just read your second comment, if you're making it for them and they're paying for it then make it to the spec they want, but factor in extra runners for the extra weight and the hastle of standing something that heavy!

patsy_mccabe

vincenzolorenzo wrote: »

True to a point, but the radius of the corner of the box will give you a good idea of how heavy the wall is. Bigger radius = thicker wall

Maybe, but they still rust from the inside out.

vincenzolorenzo

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

That's why I hate box section with a passion. You can't tell the wall thickness by looking at it. On a farm too they rot away from the inside out in no time.
All those cheap trailers you see on Donedeal, all have box section for beams undernath the body.

True to a point, but the radius of the corner of the box will give you a good idea of how heavy the wall is. Bigger radius = thicker wall

larthehar

TheFarrier wrote: »

Right. The lads running the show are just determined to make it a lifetime job, capable of withstanding everything they are going to throw at it. I'm only cobbling it together for them.

If they are prone to driving into things nothing will save it.. otherwise i would say getting it galvanised would be a lasting job. Keep it up off the ground and maybe fit stokboard to the inside to protect it.

TheFarrier

larthehar wrote: »

Are you driving on the door aswel?! 80mm box with a 5mm wall is cruel heavy for a sliding door.. 50mm with a 3mm wall would well suffice for the door frame..

Right. The lads running the show are just determined to make it a lifetime job, capable of withstanding everything they are going to throw at it. I'm only cobbling it together for them.

larthehar

TheFarrier wrote: »

I must make a sliding door to allow the loader access to the calving shed from the yard with out going through the slats.

Door will be 9 feet wide and 12 feet high.

Is 80mm box enough for this?? Thinking with a 4 or 5mm wall in it.

Any advice much appreciated

Are you driving on the door aswel?! 80mm box with a 5mm wall is cruel heavy for a sliding door.. 50mm with a 3mm wall would well suffice for the door frame..

5 wheel drive

trg wrote: »

Hey, does anyone have a pic of a homemade silage pusher that works well on a front grab or the back lift arms? Would appreciate it, thanks in advance

I have made one years ago When I was fairly green at the guntering. Works perfect for us but then everything is out of diet feeder. It’s a tractor wheel that can be picked up with grab. I’ll post a pic tomorrow.

TheFarrier

I must make a sliding door to allow the loader access to the calving shed from the yard with out going through the slats.

Door will be 9 feet wide and 12 feet high.

Is 80mm box enough for this?? Thinking with a 4 or 5mm wall in it.

Any advice much appreciated

Nekarsulm

I think some late model New Holland 339's came with such a hitch.
All the red ones and early yellow ones had a string, but I think the last of the yellow ones worked the way you're thinking.

Actually, now I think of it, look for a hitch from a John Deere 3675 trailed precision chop.
You'll pick up an entire scrapped harvester for a few hundred.
The servo controlled valve chest is worth that alone.