deezell wrote: » About £30+ on eBay, but you can repair the actuator if you like fiddling, here's the motor on Amazonhttps://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00AGGVWT6/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1514470606&sr=1&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_p=1302052867&pd_rd_wg=sWMi3&pf_rd_r=E8J2HF8C523G2E48KMAP&pf_rd_s=mobile-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=9701&pd_rd_i=B00AGGVWT6&pd_rd_w=cT17a&pf_rd_i=honeywell+v4043h&pd_rd_r=b4d9ed0f-d352-4ea1-97cf-e0af1d9871e3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65
deezell wrote: » Yes, in Europe, Nest stat can only connect to system via the heatlink wiring box.
Jane1012 wrote: » Great thanks! I just bought the 3rd generation one there! Does the heat link come with it? Sorry still trying to get my head around all this (nest was already in the house when we bought it)
deezell wrote: » For HW you just need the extra connections on the 3rd generation heatlink box, so you should just swap one of the 2nd gen nests and its heatlink for a 3rd gen. The new 3rd gen stat will control both the heating zone and the HW. No need to have three devices. You can sell the old one complete.
deezell wrote: » Think of smart systems in terms of how many independent heating zones you wish to control. UHF zones are controlled by motorised valves or pumps. Radiator zones the same, and rooms individually by TRVs. With this information you know how many general thermostats you will need and how many TRVs. For your system a solution would be a single stat to control the flow to the UFH manifold of the ground floor, and a pumped circuit for all the other rads, with another thermostat to control this. This stat maybe on the upstairs landing. This circuit could also include the towel rail rads. These rads could have standard or smart TRVS attached. The upstairs rads can either be controlled by the upstairs stat or can be made into their own zones by the addition of smart TRVs. Smart TRVs will call the zone pump or valve controlled by the general upstairs smart stat. This means a room in the zone can individually control it's own temperature up as well as down. It's a good idea to spec the entire heating system in terms of how many thermostatically controlled zones you require. Installers have no issue with this. Have TRV type valve bodies installed on the rads, to facilitate later install of smart TRV valve heads. It's then only a case of substituting your choice of smart stat for the standard stats that the installer might fit. This allows the installer to think in terms of a standard zoned fit out, without the worry of how the smart fit is achieved. By specifying wireless over wired, he does not have to be concerned about where stats are fitted, just the location of the control relays or receivers which will switch the various zone valves and pumps. Tado, Netamo or Evohome sound like solutions, Nest will work well for the general zone control, with standard or smart TRVS an option. Though nest can't directly control the latter as they would be a different brand to Nest, the overall control can be integrated using more advanced generic control apps and software utilising IFTTT, Google home, Apple Home kit etc. A poster here described how his Nest and OEM TRVs work together in this fashion. This is something you don't want to burden an UFH installer with unless you want to double you quotation.
skerry wrote: » Need to order a replacement motor for that Honeywell so before I get stuck into getting more Smart ...
Jane1012 wrote: » Hi all, quick question if anyone can help? I have 2 x nest 2nd gen thermostats controlling upstairs and downstairs. I want to get another for the hot water and I understand I need a 3rd gen. Woulf I need to replace the other two ie buy 3 of them? Or could I just buy one 3rd gen and use it with the other 2 x 2nd gen?
deezell wrote: » You guess right!
skerry wrote: » Just following up on this and was doing a bit playing around with the stats to see if I can see what's firing the boiler. I switched off the downstairs (Tado) and turned the cylinder stat and the stat for upstairs heating zone down so, to my mind at least, there should be nothing calling for heat. However, the boiler is firing every 5 mins and staying on for about 90 seconds each time. Would this be because the suspected broken Honeywell motorised valve for the HW zone is not able to close when the stat tells it to and is therefore periodically calling for heat? .... I'm trying to figure out,...... I'm guessing this Honeywell should be sorted first.
deezell wrote: » If the valve is stuck open the stat won't close it when the water reaches temperature, so it will continue to heat to the limit if the boiler stat. If the stat was closing the valve, 45° would be quite low, 55-65° would be normal to prevent bacteria forming in the cylinder. You can replace the actuator part of the valve on its own (~€40), no plumbing required. Remove the old one from the valve body still wired and see does it turn when powered by the stat. It might be burnt out. If the valve itself is stiff and sticking you'll need the body replaced, which is a full new valve, ~€60. If you get the extension kit it will control 2 valves, one heating and one HW. The output of the HW relay on the extension kit would go through the cylinder stat to the HW valve. Currently it seems to be always on as there is no timer, and the valve is manually open. If the valve microswitch is wired to fire the boiler when open ( it should be), then I can only assume there is no control on HW temperature other than the boiler's own temperature setting, hence scalding HW. Edit. There is the possibility that the solar is heating the water to a very high temperature, though I think this unlikely this time of year. Definitely get that valve sorted first. You will have some control of HW temperature at least, solar notwithstanding.
deezell wrote: » Does the £222 include the BDR relay? Nest is complete for £189 on Amazon, Netamo a great deal for €120 with relay box, but you can get the Nest with electric ireland installed for €130
deezell wrote: » Replace the eph wireless stat with a smart stat. Replace the eph controller with the relay box of the smart stat. Mains and boiler control wires from the old controller go directly into the smart relay box. Nest or Tado or Netamo will suit, and give you all the control you want. Tado can automatically detect your approach home and turn the heat back up to at home setting.
FrankGrimes wrote: » Also currently trying to figure out what is the best system for smart control of our heating system. Heating source: air-to-water heat pump (narrowed down to Nibe or Panasonic). Heating outputs: Downstairs: underfloor heating all around, 2 x heated towel rads (will need to be pumped from hot water cylinder as the heating loops will be lower temperature for UFH). Upstairs: 3 x aluminium rads... So given we have the option to go wired or wirelss (or combination) what system would be best for our setup?
Slippin Jimmy wrote: » Considering purchasing a nest through the ESB. We have oil central heating. We currently have a standard timer switch in the hallway. Would we be able to swap the nest with this unit? There is good Wi-Fi signal in thus part of the house.
budhabob wrote: » Hey folks, I was on earlier in the month looking for advice but christmas took over. We have an Ideal gas boiler, with 1 zone and manual value for hot water.
budhabob wrote: » Hey folks, I was on earlier in the month looking for advice but christmas took over. We have an Ideal gas boiler, with 1 zone and manual value for hot water. The house isnt huge so this works fine. We have an an EPH controller and thermostat with a 7 day x 3 times a day schedule. I would like to have more control over this, by setting the times on my phone, ideally more than 3 per day, and also boosting remotely like on our way home. I had a look at the ember app (and associated tech) and it seems limited to 3 times per day. So, what would my options be more more control etc? Pics of the existing units attached (i think). Will any of the offerings deliver this with my current set up, will I have to replace it, and how difficult for a reasonably handy individual is set up? Thanks in advance folks, amazing thread.
RoryW wrote: » ....Also anything else that people think we should consider at this stage ....... ....House undergoing rewire and replumb. Gas heating. New condenser boiler (I think) I calculate 15 radiators...-
RoryW wrote: » Trying to get my head around all of this so apologies in advance Hive v Next v Honeywell v anyone else to consider I understand that with Hive or Next you are restricted re zones and it is essentially upstairs or downstairs whereas with Honeywell it can be as many as you want (so each radiator can be its own zone if you wanted). Comments and words of warning and enlightenment welcomed. Also anything else that people think we should consider at this stage ? House will have alarm and CCTV. House undergoing rewire and replumb. Gas heating. New condenser boiler (I think) I calculate 15 radiators in total GROUND Extension - 3 Utility - 1 WC - 1 (towel rail) Living - 1 Sitting - 1 Hall - 1 FIRST Bedroom - 2 Landing - 1 Bathroom - 1 (towel rail) Bedroom - 1 Bedroom - 1 ATTIC Attic - 1 total - 15
white_westie wrote: » Thanks for info, i see you are a busy man over in avf too. Would sort of prefer full local control, so might lean towards just old school controls. Either way have to see what can be done with plumbing before deciding on how to control it. Did get my head around S plan wiring setup, so just need to see how wireless stats work with the setup. All a learning curve, so thanks again for all your input to threads like this.
Stoner wrote: » Lightwaverf had the facility to copy schedules to different individual TRVs. They have zones, this is all soft stuff and I guess they will all add the features that the others have. Stringify is another option here as you can add timers etc to different IFTTT recipes, or group a whole lot of single IFTTT recipes together and call them stringify zones even if your TRV heating system doesn't support zones yet.
deezell wrote: » Short answer is yes, it is server dependent. See link below for a discussion on another forum teasing out the implications of this if Tado goes bust or starts charging a sub ( like Hive I think?). As the V3 kit bridge is Apple home kit compatible, it seems that you should be able to run Home kit schedules directly to the stats and TRVs in the event of an internet or server failure. Currently if the net goes down the stat will stay at the last setting, with manual control only, and this is probably constrained to the manual setting configured on the app, choice of three, run for duration of the timer, till next scheduled event, or next manual intervention.https://www.avforums.com/threads/tado-smart-thermostat.2077764/page-6
john_doe. wrote: » Thanks The first switch controls the oil burner , just seems to turn it on and off. The second switch turns on and off the hot water. The third switch fires the rads. There are a number of thermostats in the rooms . Attached is a view of the pumps in the house.
deezell wrote: to achieve an element of blanket control over multiple zones you could use devices like Google home, Apple home kit or IFTTT if you're up to it. Tado for their part have flagged the facility to copy a schedule over multiple zones as part of future app updates. Hope this info helps, probably confuses also!