vectra wrote: » I was looking at ones lke that but mine doesn't have the black part in the centre. I would imagine that would stop it fitting in. If you scroll down the page and look at the mini ones, Mine look like that only Mini ones are too big. I am at a loss over them.
blade1 wrote: » Any pic of your fuse? Look at the red 10a fuse in the pic below. That's a micro. If yours are longer are you sure they are not mini?
TheChizler wrote: » That's not a picture of a micro one though. You have to watch out the eBay listings for fuse holders are commonly mislabled.
blade1 wrote: » It's the latest type which is micro 2. Plenty on eBayhttps://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F172741917214
LeakingLava wrote: » That does make sense regarding the U connection, however, the ad says that the U is for easy connection directly to the battery. Of course, this is not what I am going to do, so this is where the fuse tap comes in and I now understand that it is just a matter of crimping and it wasn't an actual connection that slots in. What I will do then is probably buy a U connection for the black wire (earth), then just cut the U off the red to crimp it into a fuse tap. Makes sense. Thanks a lot! Another option I was thinking of was just to buy a multiple cigarette socket and wire it to a fuse tap into the fusebox then keep the multi-socket in the glovebox compartment for other uses too. I just have to work out amperages so that I don't overload. Can't really find general information regarding how much max current these multi-sockets can pull, though.
LeakingLava wrote: » So, if I was using a 2.4A USB charger on two ports, I would be using 4.8A(perfect world expectation, real world test would probably pull less than that) which leaves .2A
grogi wrote: » Are you sure? A simple stepdown 12V->5V @ 5A would require 35W of power dissipated... You would need a huuuge heat sink to do it without risk of burning. So, the USB chargers are working like impulse chargers. Providing 5A@5V requires only 25W, the load on 12V would be around 2.5A, not more.
LeakingLava wrote: » Being completely honest with you, I probably don't understand electricity as much as I should, and would most likely have done something completely wrong in terms of calculations. But what I'm basing this on anyway is just a few pictures online stating that the max output current of those splitter type chargers is 5A
grogi wrote: » The lighter socket gives 12V, while USB requires 5V. That's why you need a charger there, it converts one into another. Now, a 1A@12V is more than twice as much "powerful" as 1A, but on 5V. Dumb USB chargers will use that excess of power to heat up, nothing more. Smarter will use it intelligently. So, if you need to power three USB devices, each needing 2A (which really is a lot), you need 30W (3 * 2A*5V) of power. You need only 2.5A to get same power from 12V (2.5A*12V = 30W). 7A splitter will be more than enough.
TigerTim wrote: » Hi All, I've a Mini 0806 & have an issue occasionally. I've it set to loop continuously but it starts beeping usually when the cards are nearly full with a message of the screen "frmat card" .If I format the cards on laptop it works away again. I thought it was the micro SD cards. I has 2 x 64GB Samsung Class 10 cards & I've recently replaced them with 2 x 64GB Class 10 Sandisk cards. This has certainly improved the issue but the camera still throws a wobbly from time to time. I have upgraded the firmware. Any ideas?. T.
vectra wrote: » Do you have a GPS Mount? If so, I assume you have the poer cable plugged into this. Try plugging the power directly into the dashcam and see how that works for you. I have read this is a workaround.
yannakis wrote: » Any idea if I can find this anywhere around Dublin?https://i.imgur.com/eFsamjk.png
UsedToWait wrote: » Bit of an unusual one here - hoping someone might know, as googling isn't throwing up much.. My Dad is looking for both a dash cam and reversing camera for his car. He'd prefer to have only one screen. Anyone know of a dash cam that would have video input which would switch to the reversing camera when reverse is engaged? I did see head units that would have that functionality, but would be very expensive. I reckon he'd be better looking at a small, non-display dash cam, and a separate reversing camera with screen. Any advice / anyone looked at something that might suit?
vectra wrote: » Halfords?
