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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

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gaffmaster

gaffmaster wrote: »

I'm in an almost identical situation. My cranks are FSA Vero (with Sora derailleurs). Asked a bike mechanic yesterday if 105 cranks would work with the rest of the set up and he seemed to think it would. So I ordered some cranks. Now I need to buy a bottom bracket and figure out how to get the old cranks off (crank puller?).

I also quizzed him on the ability/logic of using an 11 speed chain on the proposed system but he seemed to think THAT wouldn't work. I've read somewhere else (possibly another thread here, or a link from a thread here) that 11 speed chains can be used on 10 and 9 speed groupsets, and are in fact a good idea as they are manufactured to better tolerances. However, that mechanic I spoke to yesterday disputed this based on his own experiences of same.

BTW - If you have strava premium, you can get the 105 cranks for £69ish using you annual unique £15 off wiggle code.

Finally got around to swapping these cranks out. After some difficulty with a crank puller (my own fault), I got the cranks off. The Bottom bracket was reluctant to budge and needed a longer levered tool to be removed (lbs did that for free). Got the new BB in and 105 cranks on, and after adjusting the Sora derailleur a bit (limit screws and tension), it's running perfectly. Which is great!

ednwireland

Interested Observer wrote: »

Is there a maintenance for dummies guide out there on the internet anywhere? I've had my bike about 10 months now, dropped it into a bike shop in the summer for a service but have done nothing myself except pump up the tyres now and then. What's the bare minimum I should be doing?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/park-tool-big-blue-book-of-bicycle-repair-bbb-3/rp-prod109887

also loads of videos here (click on where is the problem - top right)
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/

Type 17

Feel free to do it, but I’ve never had trouble getting one off because of corrosion, just general tightness or maybe poor threads (cheap components).

Macy0161

Type 17 wrote: »

It's not the end of the world if you can't save the freewheel - just don't injure yourself or break any tools trying - I broke a (cheap) vice with a stuck freewheel a few years ago.

Just on this, on my new wheel and freewheel, should I be putting grease/ anti seize paste/ something else before fitting the freewheel? Or is there no real way of avoiding the constant tightening pressure (from the massive power I obviously put out)?

[Deleted User]

Is there a maintenance for dummies guide out there on the internet anywhere? I've had my bike about 10 months now, dropped it into a bike shop in the summer for a service but have done nothing myself except pump up the tyres now and then. What's the bare minimum I should be doing?

brownian

Just a comment/update - my bike was creaking like a pig, every time I got out of the saddle. The LBS could find nothing wrong with the bottom bracket...but the creak kept on.

Eventually, I opened, greased, and replaced every bolt I could easily get at (stem bolts, headset pinchers, seatpost collar, chainring bolts, wheel quick-releases). Not the bottom bracket (beyond my skill/courage grade).

The creak went away.

My guess is that the stem bolts or pinchers were the root cause - when you stand up, you not only put pressure on the bottom bracket, you also pull on the bars.

So, just a confirmation that bottom bracket creaks sometimes aren't BB, and that simple approaches can help, sometimes.

crosstownk

gaffmaster wrote: »

If the problem is that the derailleur wont return to the lowest point by the power of it's own spring when the cable tension is released (shifting down in this instance), then it's most likely a sticky cable. It's probably worth replacing the cable and housing anyway, especially if the bike has seen a full winter already. I'm no expert btw - this is just something I picked up from somewhere.

Also consider a dirty/sticky spring/pivots. I've seen this with an RD where the lad bought a new chain then a new cassette when a decent clean and degrease of the RD is what solved the problem.

Macy0161

Type 17 wrote: »

Well, nothing to lose then

Give a good jerk at the rim (anti-clockwise, right? :pac:;)), and don't be shy, the force of pedalling is what tightens the freewheel, so it you can expect it to be very tight - I've had (ropey, old) wheels come close to collapse/implosion before the f/w came loose...

It's not the end of the world if you can't save the freewheel - just don't injure yourself or break any tools trying - I broke a (cheap) vice with a stuck freewheel a few years ago.

No, not really bothered about the freewheel. It was actually as much to have a stab at doing the bearings. This is on my commuter, which is a Carrera, so no components really worth much but have a medium term restore plan on my old 5 speed "racer" that me mam kept!

Redjeep!

Hi everyone.

Anybody know if you can install a 1x11 on an old frame ? I have an old Genesis Core 30 that's currently 3x9. The gears are getting very worn and I'm thinking of replacing it with a 1x11 rig.

I'm not sure if the fittings etc are compatible. Most the rear mechs are advertised as direct mount (like this one):

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-deore-xt-m8000-11-speed-rear-derailleur-gs/

and I don't know if that needs any special frame mounts.

Type 17

Well, nothing to lose then

Give a good jerk at the rim (anti-clockwise, right? :pac:;)), and don't be shy, the force of pedalling is what tightens the freewheel, so it you can expect it to be very tight - I've had (ropey, old) wheels come close to collapse/implosion before the f/w came loose...

It's not the end of the world if you can't save the freewheel - just don't injure yourself or break any tools trying - I broke a (cheap) vice with a stuck freewheel a few years ago.

Macy0161

Type 17 wrote:

PS: Is it a decent/rare/special wheel? Why do you need to remove the freewheel?

I'm trying to remove the freewheel as I think the bearings are gone (lateral play in the wheel). It's not a special wheel - have brought a replacement, but was hoping to reuse the freewheel.

It's all kinda practice for my restore bike! Hoping to make the mistakes on this one.

Type 17

Macy0161 wrote: »

Going to have another go one of the other nights, but no joy with this method either! Haven't given up, but just ordered a new one in the meantime!

Freewheels are relatively cheap, so if needs be, you can tap open the outer cone (left hand thread), spill all of the bearings onto the floor, and put the inner part directly into the vice and try to unscrew that. (Note that if the chain and freewheel are well-worn, you'll need a new chain as well as a new freewheel).

PS: Is it a decent/rare/special wheel? Why do you need to remove the freewheel?

Macy0161

Type 17 wrote: »

Clamp the tool in a bench-vice tightly and jerk the wheel, rather than steadily pulling hard.

Going to have another go one of the other nights, but no joy with this method either! Haven't given up, but just ordered a new one in the meantime!

gaffmaster

seven stars wrote: »

I didn't replace the cable, but I had to release it completely and then reattach it.

Seems strange that I'd be getting the exact same behaviour both before and after loosening the cable and then reattaching it to the new derailer's cable bolt. If it was just down to cable tension then that would (presumably) have to be just a coincidence - which seems unlikely. But I dunno.

I appreciate the suggestions though - thanks for everyone's input.

If the problem is that the derailleur wont return to the lowest point by the power of it's own spring when the cable tension is released (shifting down in this instance), then it's most likely a sticky cable. It's probably worth replacing the cable and housing anyway, especially if the bike has seen a full winter already. I'm no expert btw - this is just something I picked up from somewhere.

seven stars

I didn't replace the cable, but I had to release it completely and then reattach it.

Seems strange that I'd be getting the exact same behaviour both before and after loosening the cable and then reattaching it to the new derailer's cable bolt. If it was just down to cable tension then that would (presumably) have to be just a coincidence - which seems unlikely. But I dunno.

I appreciate the suggestions though - thanks for everyone's input.

gaffmaster

It does sound like a cable tension issue to me too.

This video is great for setting up front derailleurs/cables. Did you change your cable when you changed your front DR?

Type 17

If the derailleur is falling all the way to the L limit screw on the downshift, then opening it a little will help. If it’s a newer Shimano groupset, then it may be falling onto the “trim” setting in the shifter (ie: another shifter movement is required for it to fall to the limit screw), then loosening the cable tension a little would be the answer, but that might upset the tension when the chain is on the big ring. If so, check whether the front derailleur cage is exactly paralell to the rings and is low enough (1-3mm vertical gap between the bottom of the outer edge of the cage and the tips of the big ring teeth).

cython

Possibly not much help to you, but I had a similar issue with a 9 speed chainset used in a 10 speed setup a while ago. It worked perfectly fine with the stock Shimano chainrings, but when they wore out I got them replaced with Stronglight 9/10 speed ones, and that behaviour started. Given the disparity between the chainset and the rest of the gearing I eventually bit the bullet and bought a cheapo 4600 chainset on CRC, and the problem went away, so I guess it's worth checking did you replace like with like in terms of chainrings, and this that they have the same spacing?

seven stars

Thanks for the replies lads.

@crosstownk Yes, the rollers of the chain aren't engaging with the teeth. The chain is fairly new though. I might try replacing it all the same.

@Type 17
I didn't think the limit screws would be of any use here. I understood that they prevent the chain from either falling off 'outwards' (at the high side) onto your pedals, or else falling 'inwards' (at the low side) onto the bottom bracket shell.

This is different, because I'm going from the big ring to the small ring - so the issue is occurring right in the middle of the derailer's range of movement rather than at either extremity. In any case, I haven't made any changes to the limit screws at all, and the thing was working fine until recently.

crosstownk

seven stars wrote: »

Question for a road bike maintenance guru. I know it's not easy to diagnose without actually seeing it, but any suggestions would be welcome...

I have a strange issue where the chain isn't properly shifting at the front. It only happens when I go from the big chainring to the small one (10 speed double). Instead of catching the small chainring, the chain seems to 'sit' on top of the teeth on the small chainring before engaging a few seconds later.

When I'm on the bike what happens is that the pedals spin for a short while before engaging.

I thought this was all down to the front derailer, so I replaced it. I have a brand new one, and I've installed it pretty good. The shifting is clean and crisp from small to big, and also from big to small - with the exception that I'm still getting that weird spinning thing.

Ever come across this before?

All 105 components btw. And the chainrings themselves don't look overly worn - I replaced them earlier this year.

Any help appreciated!

Maybe I have it wrong, but are you saying that the rollers of the chain aren't engaging between the teeth of the chainring? If so could it be a stretched/incorrect chain?

Although, as stated above, it might be that the FD is either preventing the chain from moving in enough or maybe moving in too much - enough to cause your issue but not enough to drop the chain.

Type 17

Open the L limit screw on the front derailleur about ⅓ to ½ of a turn?

seven stars

Question for a road bike maintenance guru. I know it's not easy to diagnose without actually seeing it, but any suggestions would be welcome...

I have a strange issue where the chain isn't properly shifting at the front. It only happens when I go from the big chainring to the small one (10 speed double). Instead of catching the small chainring, the chain seems to 'sit' on top of the teeth on the small chainring before engaging a few seconds later.

When I'm on the bike what happens is that the pedals spin for a short while before engaging.

I thought this was all down to the front derailer, so I replaced it. I have a brand new one, and I've installed it pretty good. The shifting is clean and crisp from small to big, and also from big to small - with the exception that I'm still getting that weird spinning thing.

Ever come across this before?

All 105 components btw. And the chainrings themselves don't look overly worn - I replaced them earlier this year.

Any help appreciated!

Type 17

Macy0161 wrote: »

Any tips on removing a stuck freewheel? I've tried a bar on the wrench that's on the tool, but I'm beginning to round the tool rather than get any movement!

Clamp the tool in a bench-vice tightly and jerk the wheel, rather than steadily pulling hard.

Macy0161

Any tips on removing a stuck freewheel? I've tried a bar on the wrench that's on the tool, but I'm beginning to round the tool rather than get any movement!

Type 17

mickdw wrote: »

These went like this after about 6 weeks. They are maybe 3 or 4 months old now in total.

(Pics of madly perished tyres).

I'd definitely follow up on them, out of principle - if they were purchased that recently, then they are either the worst batch of rubber ever, or they were sitting in the sun for months (years?) before being sold.

CrowdedHouse

Halfords should at least have their 'Bike Hut' brand anyway

magicbastarder

they're fit for nothing but the bin i reckon.
i had ten year old tyres on a bike which look brand new compared to those. definite refund time, if you have the receipt.

mickdw

These went like this after about 6 weeks. They are maybe 3 or 4 months old now in total.

mickdw

I will take photos in the morning.

Type 17

mickdw wrote: »

...These are significantly cracked. The side wall is cracked similar to what you would see in a 10 year old car tyre and the running surface has wide cracks where I can see the nylon threads through.

Wow, if these are a few weeks old (to you), they must have been hanging in the window for ages - can you take a photo or two?