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Do I need more than 1 Hive thermostat for multiple zones?

yannakis

Not sure if the setup is called 2- or 3- zone, so let me describe it and you can probably clear this bit up for me before going any further. Gas boiler with controls for heating downstairs, heating upstairs, and hot water.

I saw Bord Gais are giving the Hive thermostat for free with certain plans, and I'm interested but the question is: do I need more than one device for the above setup?

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DGOBS

Hi Richard, Hive is not designed to operate your immersion switch, so the answer is no to that piece.

For the downstairs timers, assuming it's heating and hot water your controlling there (via motorised valves) then you would only need 1 dual channel Hive and Stat to control, if it's 2x heating zones then you would need 2 single receivers and 2 stats.

AmberGold

After being with Airtricity for a few years and not noticing a decrease in the bills I switched to ESB who recently installed 3 x Nests for me, one in each zone (each floor). We installed them on stands in the main rooms we use rather than in the hall & landings.

Also went for the Smarter Home option because one of the Nests worked out cheaper. The house is transformed, every room at the correct temperature, no more too hot or cold. Wife was always turning on the heating when the kids came in from school and then realizing at 10pm when we were all baked out of it.

A cheap but worthwhile investment.

Richard42

Hi, I have a few Hive products in my house already but looking to move the central heating and hot water over.
I have 2 timer switches downstairs, operating 2 zone heating. (Oil fired boiler)
I also have a hot water tank upstairs with 2 switches (no timer) one for on/off and the other for sink/bath.

I assume I will need 3 thermostats, and 3 receivers (thermostat and receiver for each of the 2 zones, and one pair for the hot water switch) My question is how can I control the sink/bath switch? Could I use a dual receiver for this, or is it not possible?

Thanks

DGOBS

If you thermostats are only calling on pumps, what calls on the boiler?

I have Hive in my house, with 3 heating zones and hot water (so 4 zones) 2xsingle channel receivers, 1x dual channel and 3 Hive Stats.

The dual zone Hive receiver has two switching terminals (3 & 4) 3=DHW 4=CH, single zone Hive receiver has only one switching terminals (3) 3=CH

as

Unhygienix

I currently have a boiler connected to 4 pumps which are connected to 4 thermostats (giving me my 4 zones)..

Pump 1 - Kitchen
Pump 2 - Living Room
Pump 3 - Upstairs
Pump 4 - Feeds the immersion tank and gives us our hot water

I know that the Hive only supports three zones however I'm wondering if the following will work?

Pump 1 - Kitchen (Hive Active Multi-zone)
Pump 2 - Living Room (Hive Active Multi-zone)
Pump 3 - Upstairs (Hive Active Dual Zone)
Pump 4 - Feeds the immersion tank (Same Hive Active Dual Zone)

The fundamentals of how a unit controls both the hot water in addition to another zone is unclear so I don't know if the above is feasible.

Thanks!

themoneyguy

DGOBS wrote: »

Assume thats from a 3amp switch (not 30amps!!)

From the switch side: L,N,Earth to same on Hive receiver
From boiler: L,N to same s from switch, and assuming the grey is boiler switched live, that goes to 3, you will also need to link L-1 with a small loop (assuming your boiler is 204v switching) if its low voltage and you do it, it will blow the boiler PCB!!

Thanks

Yup, 3 amp lol....damn auto correct!

Boiler is 240v ....Cheers for the heads up though.

All sorted. Thanks for the help.

DGOBS

Assume thats from a 3amp switch (not 30amps!!)

From the switch side: L,N,Earth to same on Hive receiver
From boiler: L,N to same s from switch, and assuming the grey is boiler switched live, that goes to 3, you will also need to link L-1 with a small loop (assuming your boiler is 204v switching) if its low voltage and you do it, it will blow the boiler PCB!!

themoneyguy

So went for a self install single channel hive thermostate.
Like an idiot I just ripped out the existing therm without taking a pic for reference.

Basically I have wire with a L, N and earth coming from the 30A switch and also a wire coming from the boiler that has a L,N and grey wire.

Anyone know what order should i put into on the hive therm terminals? I have a N,L,1,2,3,4

Any help would be appreciated..... my head is wrecked here...

Thanks

batman2000

I got a Viessmann Vitodens 100 wall mounted boiler installed this week along with Hive. I am very happy with the install. There was extra wiring from the boiler to the hot water cylinder to separate the hot water and central heating. It's a great piece of kit.

DGOBS

Yes, a little bit more involved wiring wise.

chuck eastwood

DGOBS wrote: »

You should speak with your local installers (or electrician) as the wiring for Hive is as simple as removing your old timer and replacing it with the Hive Receiver (backplates are the same). If they done this for you, you could easily follow the instructions to set up the stat and hub yourself.

1. Install the Hub - Plug art into your internet router, plug in the power to it, leave for 20mins or so (depends on your internet speed) until the amber light starts flashing
2. Turn power onto the receiver your had installed, it will double flash amber, when it changes to a single flashing amber, it has picked up the hub
3. put the batteries int he thermostat, and it will automatically pair to the receiver (receiver light changes to green when complete)
4. Download Hive app on your phone, and follow the registration instructions, when prompted enter the ID number on the underneath of your Hub
5. Enjoy using Hive

Hive support is 1850680680 and open 8am-9pm everyday
Hope that helps

Thanks. Might just ring around a few more places or just ask in heat merchants if they can recommend anyone the next time im in. I wouldtackle it myself but i have a system link fitted and the pumps are contactor driven. The wiring isnt exactly tidy but it works. Installed before systemlink offered pre wired systems.

DGOBS

You should speak with your local installers (or electrician) as the wiring for Hive is as simple as removing your old timer and replacing it with the Hive Receiver (backplates are the same). If they done this for you, you could easily follow the instructions to set up the stat and hub yourself.

1. Install the Hub - Plug art into your internet router, plug in the power to it, leave for 20mins or so (depends on your internet speed) until the amber light starts flashing
2. Turn power onto the receiver your had installed, it will double flash amber, when it changes to a single flashing amber, it has picked up the hub
3. put the batteries int he thermostat, and it will automatically pair to the receiver (receiver light changes to green when complete)
4. Download Hive app on your phone, and follow the registration instructions, when prompted enter the ID number on the underneath of your Hub
5. Enjoy using Hive

Hive support is 1850680680 and open 8am-9pm everyday
Hope that helps

chuck eastwood

Howdy folks. I was hoping to upgrade me controls to hive. Standard two zone with hot water fed from a condensing oil boilder. Just rang my energy supplier bordgais and they said they recently stopped offering installation to customers with oil burners. Is there anyone else out there i could try as none of the sparks or plumbers i know have installed hive before

DGOBS

Hive requires an internet connection to work with a mobile device.

Where the internet is down (or at anytime) you can simply use your Hive thermostat to activate the heating, and it will still be running any heating schedules you have pre-set also.

batman2000

DGOBS wrote: »

I would always ask the installer too loop out the existing thermostats, and if in a good location, even remove them and use this location for the new Hive thermostats.

Hub will be fine to that router, and remember if the router has a USB port (most new ones do, except for sky routers) you can also use this to power your Hive Hub, saving the extra socked being used.

If there is a problem with the router and the WiFi fails, I assume the Hive system doesn't work anymore.?

If there is a internet outage, but the WiFi is OK, will Hive still work?

metricspaces

DGOBS wrote: »

I would always ask the installer too loop out the existing thermostats, and if in a good location, even remove them and use this location for the new Hive thermostats.

Maybe some installers will do it? My installer wouldn't. Definitely worth asking though.

I removed mine and put the Hive stat in its place. Save plastering up the hole from the old thermostat!

DGOBS

I would always ask the installer too loop out the existing thermostats, and if in a good location, even remove them and use this location for the new Hive thermostats.

Hub will be fine to that router, and remember if the router has a USB port (most new ones do, except for sky routers) you can also use this to power your Hive Hub, saving the extra socked being used.

Decoda

Thanks for clarifying all of that Metric and sorry for hijacking this thread. I'll get the Electric Ireland lad to just put the thermostat on the stand and I'll have the old thermostat removed later. Like you I'll use the nest thermostat to cover the hole in the wall after the old one is removed. I presume that there shouldn't be any issues with the Hive Hub being connected into an Ethernet port on a TPLink.

Thanks again for the info.

D.

metricspaces

Hive Hub will need power supply and you need to connect a cable from it to your router (you'll need a free port on router).

Hive Controller will be fitted in exact same location as your existing control (existing control will be removed). If you have more than one heating zone then you'll need one more controller for each additional zone. The Hive Controller supplied only manages one heating zone and hot water.

Hive thermostat can be placed anywhere - it has a removable plate on the back which can be drilled to the wall or you can simply just leave it standing somewhere. It is run of 4 AA batteries, it does not use a wired power supply and it does not use any of the wiring connected to your existing thermostats.

Installer would not touch my existing thermostats and simply turned them up to max setting.

You could remove existing thermostats yourself. I got electrician do it as he was in the house anyway so it cost me nothing.

I placed the Hive thermostat in the same location as my existing thermostat purely to cover up the hole in the wall.

Decoda

Double Post

Decoda

Hi Folks,

Looking for some advice in advance of the Hive heating system being fitted by Electric Ireland this Thursday.

My existing oil fired heating has the traditional timer in the utility room and a wired thermostat in the hallway. Would anyone be able to walk me through what I can expect to be fitted on Thursday? Can anyone confirm that the Hive Hub needs to be connected via cable to my router? Does the Hive Hub need power? I presume that the Hive thermostat needs access to power? My existing thermostat is in the hallway and I just presumed that the Electric Ireland fitter would replace the wired thermostat with the new Hive thermostat but reading metricspaces post above it seems as if the fitter will not touch existing fittings? Am I going to have to get an electrician to remove the old thermostat to allow the Hive to be fitted?

Any assistance appreciated.

D.

metricspaces

bod71 wrote: »

Would this be a job for an electrician, or do you think you’re average diy person would be able, as you said everything is beside the boiler, wiring centre, motorized valves. Thanks.

I got my Hive fitted by Bord Gais at the weekend. The guy who fits it is not an electrician - he's just the same guy who services your boiler. So no electrician needed.

It was an extremely simple job. You are talking 10 minutes max.

* Remove old controller
* Put correct wires into correct location of new Hive controller
* Plug in the Hive hub to your router
* Download the App to your phone and setup
* Discover the thermostats in your App
* Job done!

The above assumes you just turn the temperature on your current thermostats up to max, in effect giving you a straight through connection as if the thermostat did not exist (as the new Hive thermostat is controlling the signal to open\close the valve the old thermostat is not needed). The new Hive thermostat is wireless and does not need to be connected to the wires used by your current thermostat.

I did remove my old thermostats. It took it 2 min max per thermostat. I got an electrician to do this (he was in the house on another job, and the Hive installer would not touch the existing thermostats). I presume the electrician just changed the wiring to give it a straight through connection.

bod71

Would this be a job for an electrician, or do you think you’re average diy person would be able, as you said everything is beside the boiler, wiring centre, motorized valves. Thanks.

DGOBS

With the 2 wireless thermostats, I am going to assume both receivers (onexsingle 1xdual) you will need will most likely be installed beside wherever your wiring centre is (and the wireless stats controllers/recivers) as this would have all the switch wires required.

The time clock you have would be wired out of the system and no longer required.

You will be able to switch on DHW via the downstairs heating thermostat (and you phone of course)

bod71

Hi, I’m interested in getting hive thermostat with hot water and also multi zone as I have two wireless programmable thermostats, downstairs, upstairs and also a cylinder stat, I have a digital time clock that controls hot water. Would the hive receiver take place of the time clock? Thanks.

DGOBS

No hassle.

AmberGold

Great thanks.

DGOBS

So if I am understanding your answers correctly:

You have a heating timer, but all your 3 thermostats are independent (i.e. not controlled by individual timers)
and you have a hot water timer for the boiler also.

If so, Hive standard Dual control would replace both timers for the boiler, but it would not be able to give you independent control of each zone, only the same control you have with both timers at the moment, all the remaining 3 thermostats would have to stay in position, and be 'governed' by an overall stat from Hive.

You would be able to independently turn on heating and hot water via the app and the Hive stat.

AmberGold

How many timer switches do you have?
2, underneath each Gas Boiler in the utility room

Is there one for each thermostat on each floor?
No

Is there a separate one for hot water?
Yes but not the Immersion, hot water is provided by the Boiler, we don't use the immersion

Does the heating kick in for each timer independently? (you don't have to have hot water on for the other zones to kick in)
I assume the heating kicks in for each timer independently, the Gas boiler for the water is not controlled by a thermostat, just a timer.

Thanks for your help here.

DGOBS

Hi AmberGold

How many timer switches do you have?
Is there one for each thermostat on each floor?
Is there a separate one for hot water?
Does the heating kick in for each timer independently? (you don't have to have hot water on for the other zones to kick in)