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STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

paddy147

The amount of threads getting posted each day about stoves is unreal and taking away from other plumbing issues.

Can I suggest to the members and also the mods a dedicated "sticky" thread about stoves and nothing else.

Thanks.:)

Hi Folks. This sticky has been suggested by a regular poster and contributed to quite well. It seems to have generated a lot of interest. While advertising is not permitted under forum charter a balanced view of multiple suppliers is allowed. The rule of thumb is if you are unsure just ask. But keeping it simple and discussing the techanical details of multiple suppliers will be safe. Keep pricing out of the thread and only reply if requested to by PM -Personal message. An instant permant ban will result for breach of charter on advertising.

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amytomjerry

hello..looking for someone to explain simply how things work...

so, the stove with the back boiler is lit and eventually it heats up...the thermostat is set to 50 degrees...pump comes on...rads and tank heat up...

So then should this pump remain on for as long as stove has a good supply of fuel in it? or will it cut in and out for the evening???

I would really like to understand exactly how it all works and how it should work...because at the moment, my pump is cutting in and out and I am not sure if this is the norm.

Please can someone explain to me as I am clueless!! thanks...

rpmcs

Yes this sounds fairly right.
Light stove ...when heat reaches 50Â° in pipes on gravity between stove and hot press then pump should kick in and when it has pumped some of the heat to rads and pushes cooler water back to stove the pump should click off too let the stove build up heat again.
As long as your rads are getting fairly warm....no problem.
If the pump kicks in and then your rads are not heating up properly then you may need to check system or maybe the stove boiler is not able to heat the amount of rads it has.
It is all down to quantity of water the stove has to heat.
If the quantity of water/rads is too much then the stove will never get up to heat properly..... eat fuel ....black glass.
The fire has to get up to temperature to be able to efficiently burn fuel.

raemie10

I've been dying to put in a stove into a (useless!) fireplace since I moved into our house last Christmas
So many of you seem to be super knowledgeable about stoves on here so hopefully someone will be kind enough to give me some advice.

It would be a room only stove. There are three old low runtal rads in the room running off central (oil) Stanley range. The room is freezing unless the heating is on all day and even then, it's never comfortable. The open fire is beautiful to look at but is of zero help unless you hover over it!

The step down room that the fireplace is in unfortunately has no insulation (as ceiling is double height and house is a bungalow, so it's the only part that doesn't have attic insulation on top. Eventually, once we can afford it, we will get the room dry lined but that likely won't happen for a couple of years.

If we don't change the fireplace, we can just about fit a Stanley cara insert which is 7kw output.

Ideally, I'd like something with a much higher output but if so, we will need to cut into the fireplace. Is that a massively expensive job to do, does anyone know?

Or does anyone know of a similar stove size with a higher output?! Are we better off to give up on an insert altogether?
Or does anyone have any others suggestions as to what we could do?!
Thanks

Effects

I'm getting a stove installed in a new build. It has a flat roof but there is an up stand and roof light higher than roof level.
Am I right to think the flue has to be 600mm above roof level or does it have to be 600mm above the roof light?

Forge83

raemie10 wrote: »

I've been dying to put in a stove into a (useless!) fireplace since I moved into our house last Christmas
So many of you seem to be super knowledgeable about stoves on here so hopefully someone will be kind enough to give me some advice.

It would be a room only stove. There are three old low runtal rads in the room running off central (oil) Stanley range. The room is freezing unless the heating is on all day and even then, it's never comfortable. The open fire is beautiful to look at but is of zero help unless you hover over it!

The step down room that the fireplace is in unfortunately has no insulation (as ceiling is double height and house is a bungalow, so it's the only part that doesn't have attic insulation on top. Eventually, once we can afford it, we will get the room dry lined but that likely won't happen for a couple of years.

If we don't change the fireplace, we can just about fit a Stanley cara insert which is 7kw output.

Ideally, I'd like something with a much higher output but if so, we will need to cut into the fireplace. Is that a massively expensive job to do, does anyone know?

Or does anyone know of a similar stove size with a higher output?! Are we better off to give up on an insert altogether?
Or does anyone have any others suggestions as to what we could do?!
Thanks

What is the fireplace opening measurement?

Forge83

Effects wrote: »

I'm getting a stove installed in a new build. It has a flat roof but there is an up stand and roof light higher than roof level.
Am I right to think the flue has to be 600mm above roof level or does it have to be 600mm above the roof light?

Any picture?

Effects

Here's a few pictures. The roof light has a height of 500mm. The flue will come out of the orange thing that's roughly centre in the images.

Closest house here on the right:

dathi

Effects wrote: »

I'm getting a stove installed in a new build. It has a flat roof but there is an up stand and roof light higher than roof level.
Am I right to think the flue has to be 600mm above roof level or does it have to be 600mm above the roof light?

http://www.housing.gov.ie/sites/default/files/migrated-files/en/Publications/DevelopmentandHousing/BuildingStandards/FileDownLoad%2C37240%2Cen.pdf
page 18 19 20 of above deal with flue heights for solid fuel 1m above roof for flat roofs but goes on to say that if roof covering is easily flammable it has to be increased

Effects

dathi wrote: »

1m above roof for flat roofs but goes on to say that if roof covering is easily flammable it has to be increased

Thanks for that. Should be grand with the roof covering as it's some type of fire retardant material below the bitumen layer. I'll double check it though.

Edit: I thought the flue may have been within 2.3 metres of the opening roof light. That would likely mean it has to be 1.6 metres. But I just measured it and it's 3.1m away.

Effects

Deedsie wrote: »

I want to make sure I get a water cylinder that can eventually be heated by Stove and back boiler, oil boiler, immersion and solar panels from the roof. I dont want to have to replace the water cylinder in a few years time basically.

PV panels can be setup with diverter to power your immersion when not being used elsewhere. Having coils for stove boiler, oil boiler and solar hot water sounds like a lot.

Mickeroo

I would have though a 3 coil cylinder would be more efficient than running three off two coils, i'm no expert by any means though.

raemie10

Forge83 wrote: »

What is the fireplace opening measurement?

Hi. W=560mm H=610mm

mikeysmith

Is there anything in particular that needs doing when cleaning a Stanley oisin stove.

I'm getting it ready for firing for the winter agsin and chimney is cleaned

Devrobia

When I'm servicing stoves I find a small bit of stove polish will go along way to bringing the finish back to life especially on matt black models. If you reckon that the polish won't be enough then you can buy stove paint in Aerosol form, the best finish out there in my opinion is 'Stovebright' you can buy it in various colours but I find that the metallic black is the best as it hides any blemishes on the surface of the stove, however some people don't like the metallic spec thats in the finish and prefer the matt black.

Make sure that all the rope seals are in good condition, you can check the seal by closing the door against a piece of paper, if you can't remove the paper then you know that the rope seals are going to be air tight. Also check the seal behind the glass for any wearing or damage.

Check that all the baffles are in good condition, if they are cracked or badly worn then you should replace them before the season starts as they will only get worse over the coming months.

Check all the air controls on the stove especially the primary air control, if it is not sealing properly then your stove will run the risk of over firing, over firing happens if the stove gets extended periods of oxygen from underneath the grate. If the stove is overfilling then all the inner parts of the stove i.e. baffle, grate, log retainer etc will get badly damaged not to mention that the stove itself can get damaged also.

From a fitting point of view, just check all the flue seals, if they are broken then just get some fire cement and seal them back up again.

Ive probably missed a few minor details but if you follow the above you should have the stove working like new.

Mickeroo

My understanding is the Charnwood is the better quality stove but it only outputs 9kw to the boiler where as the Cara does 13.5kw (both with coal). The cara would be better able to heat the rads.

LirW

Didn't see the already opened thread here, shame on me (if someone maybe wants to close it, please

)

Here my question:

we're currently planning a refurbishment of our house. We have to get a new Boiler stove because we change a few rads and need more power for it.
The size we need is a 16 KWh stove according to the plumber.

We had a good look around and there are a few that would work for us but I want to know is there an actual difference between for example a Henley, Stanley or Blacksmith?

I just had a casual chat with my chimney sweep and he said he personally dislikes the Stanley stoves because if you want to sweep the chimney you have to move them or go in from the top.

I'd appreciate every opinion!

bungaro79

Total stove newbie here. A few weeks into a new house and there's a Stanley Fionn stove in it. We got it cleaned during the week and are looking forward to using it. I had to replace the Firestones in it today and I was asking the lady in the shop what to burn? She said wood was the best thing for these type of stoves?? But she also said I'd need to have some sort of base on it and I'm not sure if this is what the grate is resting on in the pics?? I know I can burn coal too but I'd love to hear what people would recommend??
Thanks

Devrobia

bungaro79 wrote: »

Total stove newbie here. A few weeks into a new house and there's a Stanley Fionn stove in it. We got it cleaned during the week and are looking forward to using it. I had to replace the Firestones in it today and I was asking the lady in the shop what to burn? She said wood was the best thing for these type of stoves?? But she also said I'd need to have some sort of base on it and I'm not sure if this is what the grate is resting on in the pics?? I know I can burn coal too but I'd love to hear what people would recommend??
Thanks

Are you sure it's a Stanley fionn? Can you post a photo of the full stove. It looks like a wood burner with a solid fuel basket. Wood burns on a flat surface so you would take out the basket and place the wood on the base. You might need to place a protective base on the bottom. The handiest thing to use is scamol board, you can buy it as a sheet and cut it down with a hand saw.

sarahn11

Hi Guys,

Just had some work done removing old fireplace and installation of stanley osion. Just had a look after the guy had left and the stove isn't actually connected to anything just the rear vent is pointing up the chimney. Called the guy back and he said that he was saving us money by not lining the chimney (never mentioned this to use beforehand) and that the stove would work fine, he said to connect it up and line the chimney would cost 700-800e, Is he right? surely you'd be loosing efficiency with the rear exposed like that? Ive been let down by two installers prior to this so I'm really fed up with people giving me the run around at the stage.

van_beano

sarahn11 wrote: »

Hi Guys,

Just had some work done removing old fireplace and installation of stanley osion. Just had a look after the guy had left and the stove isn't actually connected to anything just the rear vent is pointing up the chimney. Called the guy back and he said that he was saving us money by not lining the chimney (never mentioned this to use beforehand) and that the stove would work fine, he said to connect it up and line the chimney would cost 700-800e, Is he right? surely you'd be loosing efficiency with the rear exposed like that? Ive been let down by two installers prior to this so I'm really fed up with people giving me the run around at the stage.

He did put a carbon monoxide detector in the room though, didn't he? It might come in handy.

sarahn11

van_beano wrote: »

He did put a carbon monoxide detector in the room though, didn't he? It might come in handy.

Yes there is a CO detector. So your saying its a shoddy installation?

Edit: How much should i be paying for a flue line + actual Installation?

Mickeroo

Is there a clay liner in the chimney at least? You don't necessarily need the metal one provided the clay liner is in good condition as far as I know.

sarahn11

Mickeroo wrote: »

Is there a clay liner in the chimney at least? You don't necessarily need the metal one provided the clay liner is in good condition as far as I know.

Not sure here is what i know;
the house was built in 1961, older style back boiler was behind a gas fire when we bought the house. we removed the gas fire, got the back boiler removed along with the fireplace, the installer has fashioned a new fireplace placed the stove in it. There is nothing connecting the stove to the chimney. Every stove i've seen has a pipe coming from the back of it running up the chimney, this is what i assumed we were getting when we asked for the install.

This the what i mean in figure 3 of this manual http://www.waterfordstanley.com/media/2030180/oisin-sf-manual_new.pdf

Mickeroo

Can you show a photo of where it connects (or doesn't as the case may be) to the chimney? Are you saying there's literally no pipe coming out of the stove? Even with a clay liner the stove should still be an adapter kit of some kind to attach it to the liner.

To be honest it sounds a bit dodgy to me but would be clearer with a picture.

van_beano

sarahn11 wrote: »

Yes there is a CO detector. So your saying its a shoddy installation?

Edit: How much should i be paying for a flue line + actual Installation?

I don't know if it's a shoddy job but I got a new fireplace, hearth and a 5kw non-boiler insert stove installed last month, old open fireplace and opening taken out. Metal flue liner put down the chimney and connected into the stove. This came in at €2,400 for everything, materials and labour and take away waste.

sarahn11

Mickeroo wrote: »

Can you show a photo of where it connects (or doesn't as the case may be) to the chimney? Are you saying there's literally no pipe coming out of the stove? Even with a clay liner the stove should still be an adapter kit of some kind to attach it to the liner.

To be honest it sounds a bit dodgy to me but would be clearer with a picture.

Hope you can see what i mean by the pictures but there is nothing connected to the end of that pipe and above the pipe is just the open chimney.

Mickeroo

I will caveat this by saying I'm not a plumber/heating engineer and any knowledge I have derives from my own research prior to getting our own stove installed recently but yeah that looks dodgy as hell to me, get someone else in to have a look at it.

sarahn11

Mickeroo wrote: »

I will caveat this by saying I'm not a plumber/heating engineer and any knowledge I have derives from my own research prior to getting our own stove installed recently but yeah that looks dodgy as hell to me, get someone else in to have a look at it.

Thanks for the advice, will have a ring around and get someone else up to have a look.

rachaelf750

DO NOT use that stove!!
Please pm me and I will send you the building regulations regarding stove installations.

I'm flabbergasted that someone would do that :0

tayto lover

Is there such a thing as a pellet burning stove that can be taken from room to room as required i.e. not attached to chimney or wall and if so are they expensive to buy and to use?
Thanks lads.