SCOL wrote: » With all the wet weather we are having and young kids I'm looking at building a shed for drying closes/workshop at the back of the garage maybe a lean to with a full perspex roof and maybe sides that can open for air flow. probably about 12-15 foot long and the same wide. I live on VERY exposed hill but the garage would be blocking the west winds so only easterly wind would be a problem. would the perspex roof be strong enough with a wind getting under the roof and breaking the sheets ? I also need to figure out how to attach the roof to the side as It's k rend finish.
L1985 wrote: » Hi guys -anyone any ideas of an easy way of restraining young calves if you need to tag them ,dose them etc. I usually tag at one day old so that's not too bad but had to inject a 5week old and put my back out with the twist he gave recently. I was holding him and injecting him at the same time....halters are so much hassle to put on them that usually when I get them in the position for the halter I just end up doing what ever without it. Crush wouldn't work for the smaller calves and honestly I can't justify 400€ on a dehorning box when we have a polled herd....any simple ideas of something I could convert or make that's not a feat of engineering and wouldn't cost the earth? Might be asking a bit much but just thought I'd see ppls ideas
L1985 wrote: » I did look at that one actually but I don't know would it hold a calf? It doesn't look the sturdiest although being able to move it would be very handy ....and would it be tough enough work getting a calf to stick his head in it.....? If it's an open pen you would need more then one person I'd say to get it in position and that's what I don't have.. thanks for the suggestion and I'm not ruling it out I just didn't know if that would be the best option. We have suckler-calves aren't too bad but not about to give you a cuddle either!!! Actually just scrolled down and saw the video-looks a better job then i thought and looks easy to manoeuvre so more interested in it now-might try see a sample at the ploughing!
SCOL wrote: » I'm going to go with a car port style. 22 feet long by appx 18 feet wide attached to the back of the garage. Power float the floor as level as possible for a workshop. I'm thinking maybe two 9 foot gates each of it so it can be closed if needed. What's the best way to attach the roof to the garage ? I was thinking of bolting rectangular box section to the garage and work off that ? or are there some sort of fittings to nail into the wall to hang the joists from.
patsy_mccabe wrote: » Cool bit of guntering;https://www.donedeal.ie/trailers-for-sale/18ft-cattle-livestock-trailer/15305111
TheFarrier wrote: » A load of sheeting for the roof of the workshop landed here this morning. What screws are best for attaching 0.6mm corrugated to timber?? Would I be better pre-drilling holes, or using tek screws? Or a hammer and a punch before screwing?? Also would I be right in thinking the screws are to be applied into the heights of the corrugated and not the dips?? Thanks in advance
SCOL wrote: » I always put the screws ( the one's with the rubber washer ) on the bottom of the valley.
Reggie. wrote: » Tek screws best job. For roof go through the highest part of the cladding not in the valley of it. Also don't overtighten the screws as you might damage the rubber washer on it
TheFarrier wrote: » Thanks for the swift replies. I've had a few lads telling me the last few days that I can expect condensation to drip from the clearlite panels in frosty weather. They all said to put a clear plastic sheet under them, but none of them could advise what I could use for this, or where I could get it. Any ideas??
Reggie. wrote: » Never had condensation problems with clear sheeting once the pitch of the roof was at a good enough angle