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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

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Gorteen

There's a creak from the pedal area when I pedal, which seems louder when going uphill............ It seems to be at the same place in the rotation of the pedal. Any ideas?

magicbastarder

MediaMan wrote: »

You need a special shock pump for that. If you're on friendly terms with your LBS, they might check it for you and advise you on what work might need doing too.

anyone know of any bike shops on the northside which do fork servicing? the two suggestions i've heard are on the southside.

plodder

magicbastarder wrote: »

try a tiny drop of oil on all the contact points between the spokes and the wheel and the hubs.
i had a similar sounding noise which a drop of oil on each spoke nipple sorted out for me.

Thanks, but the noise is from the crankset/bottom bracket area (if I've got my terminology right). According to Wikipedia low end road bikes often have the bearings there exposed to the elements. This wouldn't surprise me as it sounds as if some grit or something has got in there.

magicbastarder

i had a similar issue, dropped it around to the LBS and €15 later i got a bike back with the bearing cups tightened (may have that wrong) as they had loosened on one side.

MediaMan

magicbastarder wrote: »

anyone know of any bike shops on the northside which do fork servicing? the two suggestions i've heard are on the southside.

You could check with Cyclebike just off Capel St.

LollipopJimmy

seamus wrote: »

Over-tensioned spoke shouldn't really ping often. A broken spoke might

If it's a regular noise, i.e. has a rhythm, then it's something banging off something else.

If it's something that only happens over bumps, i.e. it's more of a rattle, then something is loose.

No broken spokes, tapped everything I could with my rattle checker (rubber mallet) and couldn't get it to repeat in the stand so stripped everything down and reassembled ensuring everything was torqued correctly. If it happens again tomorrow I'll burn the bike

magicbastarder

MediaMan wrote: »

You need a special shock pump for that. If you're on friendly terms with your LBS, they might check it for you and advise you on what work might need doing too.

turns out 360 cycles in clontarf do fork servicing - popped down and they pumped the fork (was a little low on pressure) and refused to take any money for it. plan will be is that if they lose pressure too quickly, i'll go for a full service on them.

CantGetNoSleep

I've got a decent enough Cannondale frame (CAAD 8) but running Claris 8 speed groupset.

I was planning to upgrade bike but I can get a 105 with very low km on a second hand site. If I do (a) do I need new wheels (I'll be getting a new 10 speed cassette anyway) and (b) how difficult is it to do such a changeover of groupset (I have all the tools plus a long weekend with nothing planned).

gaffmaster

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

I've got a decent enough Cannondale frame (CAAD 8) but running Claris 8 speed groupset.

I was planning to upgrade bike but I can get a 105 with very low km on a second hand site. If I do (a) do I need new wheels (I'll be getting a new 10 speed cassette anyway) and (b) how difficult is it to do such a changeover of groupset (I have all the tools plus a long weekend with nothing planned).

Sounds like a great weekend. I'd love to be doing that this weekend.

AFAIK, your wheels should work okay (Maddux R2.0?) since they're Shimano compatible. You'll probably need to remove spacers on the hub from the current 8 speed cassette.

I've never changed a whole groupset at once, but it's something I hope to do myself soon. YouTube is your friend. And also, this free PDF is a handy reference, but definitely use videos too - http://www.flocycling.com/buildabike.php

CantGetNoSleep

gaffmaster wrote: »

Sounds like a great weekend. I'd love to be doing that this weekend.

AFAIK, your wheels should work okay (Maddux R2.0?) since they're Shimano compatible. You'll probably need to remove spacers on the hub from the current 8 speed cassette.

I've never changed a whole groupset at once, but it's something I hope to do myself soon. YouTube is your friend. And also, this free PDF is a handy reference, but definitely use videos too - http://www.flocycling.com/buildabike.php

Thanks - they are RS3.0

I was going to go bit by bit, I need a new brake cable anyway, but figured best option is probably just to do it all in one go when I need to remove bar tape to get at shifters etc. (The OH being away helps too)

Macy0161

N+1 looking like it might be a SRAM groupset. I assume there's no issue running a Shimano Cassette with SRAM groupset (or vica versa?). Just thinking ahead to wheel upgrades that will potentially be swapped between bikes!

joey100

Sram cassettes will work with Shimano derailleurs and vice versa. If it's 11 speed any cassette (Sram, Shimano or Campagnolo) will work with each other. Spacing is pretty much the same.

dahat

For a 52/36 running 11/28 cassette what chain do i need linkwise? Seeing 116.119 when i go to buy one.

cython

dahat wrote: »

For a 52/36 running 11/28 cassette what chain do i need linkwise? Seeing 116.119 when i go to buy one.

I was able to get away with a 114 link chain on 50/34 with 11/32 cassette (I had to remove a couple of links, albeit the least I've ever had to remove!), so I'd imagine anything that length or more would be fine, unless you've a bike with unusually long chainstays?

Type 17

As cython says, the final length of the chain is impossible to determine before purchase, as it's based on chainstay length, as well as chainring/sprocket size, and also rear derailleur swing-cage length, but if your's is a road bike (shorter chainstays), buy the 116 one and you'll probably still need to remove a link or two. The 119 link is for longer frames (tourers, 29"-wheel MTB's, etc)

brianomc

I'm new to the whole disc brake thing and am puzzled about cleaning them.

So I got disc brake cleaner and online videos say to use it on the rotor and the pads, but the guy in the shop said only use it on the rotor and to use sandpaper on the pads.

Even the instructions on the bottle say to use it on the pads too https://muc-off.com/products/disc-brake-cleaner

So I turn to boards for a definitive answer.........

Type 17

You can use it on the pads as well as the discs, but if the dirt/contamination is anything more than minor, then you'll need to sand them, as the cleaner will just wash the oil into the pads rather than remove it.

For serious pad contamination (brake fluid spill, etc), you can also remove the pads and burn them off for a few seconds with a blowtorch, but it's only worth doing this if the contamination is fresh (hasn't been soaking in for ages).

Need to replace the headset on my main steed (year-round commuter and main steed). Looking at the cane creek headset finder has given me the details I need but I was wondering if I should be looking at their 40 or 110 series? There's a clear price difference but is the extra coin worth it?

magicbastarder

changed the chain on the main bike today - the factory grease looks like the sort of stuff which would attract dust; i assume it's best to wipe it off?

also, anyone have any creative uses for old chains rather than me just binning it?

07Lapierre

magicbastarder wrote: »

changed the chain on the main bike today - the factory grease looks like the sort of stuff which would attract dust; i assume it's best to wipe it off?

also, anyone have any creative uses for old chains rather than me just binning it?

No... leave the new chain as is! It's the best lube and lasts quite well.
Can't help with ideas for the old chain as I bin old chains.

Type 17

magicbastarder wrote: »

...anyone have any creative uses for old chains rather than me just binning it?

Home-made chain whip for cassette removal

851140d1385847743t-tools-expensive-whats-your-work-around-chain-whip.jpg

Anti-theft for your saddle (probably for daily hack only)

magicbastarder

07Lapierre wrote: »

No... leave the new chain as is! It's the best lube and lasts quite well.

cheers - i wasn't sure if it was best to wipe it off the outside of the chain, while leaving the oil between the links alone.

saccades

brianomc wrote: »

I'm new to the whole disc brake thing and am puzzled about cleaning them.

So I got disc brake cleaner and online videos say to use it on the rotor and the pads, but the guy in the shop said only use it on the rotor and to use sandpaper on the pads.

Even the instructions on the bottle say to use it on the pads too https://muc-off.com/products/disc-brake-cleaner

So I turn to boards for a definitive answer.........

Simply put - there should be no need to clean them. ever.

How often do you clean your car discs?

Bed them in properly (get up to speed and brake sharply and repeat until the braking is excellent) and that's all you need to do.

If somehow you have crap on your discs then clean as below.

Never put anything on your pads, back in the day there were 3-4 different ways of cleaning pads if contaminated (all of which were even more and more desperate/harsh depending on what was on the discs). Just replace the pads, for the amount of effort "cleaning" and testing you might as well just buy some 3rd party replacements for a tenner. Back in the day it was £30 for a set.

Rotors can just be wiped - if there is a **** load of grease wipe and then stick in the dishwasher.

I wouldn't be washing the discs with anything special - clean the bike with a mild soap/water mix (washing up liquid is fine, there is bugger all salt in it) then relube once dry. A jet wash is worse for the bike.

Type 17

There's no need to clean brake discs on motor vehicles because, even with relatively gentle driving, they get hot enough to burn off any contamination. Only some bikes (such as downhill mountain bikes and road bikes on long descents) heat their discs in this way - most bike discs, if they get contaminated, won't be able to clear it with heat.

The other issue is that most people don't realise this, and aren't careful about preventing oil getting on the discs - the airborne drift from using an aerosol lube on the chain can easily be enough. If using a spray near the drivetrain, slip a sheet of cardboard with a suitable slot in it, in between the disc and the spokes, to keep overspray/drift away from the brake.

However, if you're careful with the lube, or you do lots of fast/long descending, you should never need to do any disc-cleaning

magicbastarder

OleRodrigo wrote: »

For the last month I have been struggling with one of the worst problems you can have with a steel framed bike - seized aluminium seatpost.

I've tried everything, hot water, cold ice, WD40, anti seize compound, nothing has worked, so it came down two last ditch desperate remedies.

how did this work out for you?

OleRodrigo

magicbastarder wrote: »

how did this work out for you?

Still a work in progress.

Not optimistic though. The lower part of the seat post is 1/3 of the way down the seat tube and seems almost welded to the inner wall.

ford2600

OleRodrigo wrote: »

Still a work in progress.

Not optimistic though. The lower part of the seat post is 1/3 of the way down the seat tube and seems almost welded to the inner wall.

Frame upsidedown and pour in penetrating oil or maybe caustic (if feeling brave) from bb.

Leave overnight.

Using stilson or similar get some leverage and see does it work

Anything to add here!!!

http://touch.boards.ie/thread/2057516487/16/#post104511544

Type 17

I managed to get one out by removing the bottom bracket, drilling a 12mm hole in the bottom of the BB shell, drilling a hole through the exposed part of the seat post and putting an old hub-axle through it.
With the frame upside down, we dropped a length of 10mm rebar down the hole in the BB shell, to rest against the hub axle and pounded the seat post out with a lump hammer.
Bike refitted with a new cassette bottom bracket, so the hole in the BB shell doesn't matter.

However, we tried this with a different bike which had a suspension seat post stuck in it (thinner walls and a screwed-in plug at the bottom of the seat post) - we couldn't get the plug out to get the rebar to go through the seat post up to where an axle would be drilled through, so we had to risk beating the plug with the rebar - the plug threads failed and the plug went up inside the seat post, spreading it and the seat tube of the frame - frame written off (but it was a cheap ladies shopping bike, so not a huge loss).

OleRodrigo

ford2600 wrote: »

Frame upsidedown and pour in penetrating oil or maybe caustic (if feeling brave) from bb.

Leave overnight.

Using stilson or similar get some leverage and see does it work

Tried all that, didn't work. The seat post is now cut in two and am attempting to take it out in pieces.

Anything to add here!!!

http://touch.boards.ie/thread/2057516487/16/#post104511544

No - still licking me wounds!

ec18

whats the best Way to clean a horrifically dirty chain.....the usual spray that I use is being no help