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General sheep thread

charolais0153

Just a thread for miscellaneous questions that don't deserve their own thread iykwim .

Does anyone know what this is? Took this picture a few months ago and she healed after a while through injections and formalin

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tomwaterford

ganmo wrote: »

The price of the ewes won't buy a hogget.
If any of them aren't in lamb at scanning time give them gate but I wouldn't be pushed till then

Add together the factory price of the ewe and the cost of keeping them for the extra year (fert doaing etc)

,your very close to price of a good classy ewe lamb and improving your sheep overall imo

ganmo

tomwaterford wrote: »

Add together the factory price of the ewe and the cost of keeping them for the extra year (fert doaing etc)

,your very close to price of a good classy ewe lamb and improving your sheep overall imo

if it was for the full year ya but we're in july

charolais0153

Wyick question , does RaM effect work on hoggetts in their first year going to ram,?

stantheman1979

charolais0153 wrote: »

Wyick question , does RaM effect work on hoggetts in their first year going to ram,?

Yeah we use it with ewe lambs. All ours lambed in a month.

stantheman1979

ganmo wrote: »

tomwaterford wrote: »

Add together the factory price of the ewe and the cost of keeping them for the extra year (fert doaing etc)

,your very close to price of a good classy ewe lamb and improving your sheep overall imo

if it was for the full year ya but we're in july

But sure he will have kept them a full year by the time they lamb again or should I say if.

charolais0153

stantheman1979 wrote: »

Yeah we use it with ewe lambs. All ours lambed in a month.

No I'm on about ewes a year older than ewe lambs iykwim

rangler1

charolais0153 wrote: »

No I'm on about ewes a year older than ewe lambs iykwim

It costs nothing to keep them away from sight or smell of ewes for six weeks and then put them next field to the ewes for a fortnight, it's well proven that it tightens lambing and maybe increases lamb crop as the first heat isn't as prolific.
It also revs up the rams too,

Farmer_3650

I read somewhere that the ram has to be 2km away from the Ewes. Is that true? because that is certainly not possible around here when you have sheep all around us.

Buford T. Justice XIX

Mod Note: I just deleted a few quotes and replies from a banned account, if you're wondering where your posts went:)

Carry on folks.

Buford T. Justice.

MayoAreMagic

tomwaterford wrote: »

Add together the factory price of the ewe and the cost of keeping them for the extra year (fert doaing etc)

,your very close to price of a good classy ewe lamb and improving your sheep overall imo

But surely you then have to factor in the costs of getting these lambs too? Food, diesel, day gone at the mart?

My thinking would be the ewes are young and in good condition. Therefore they will probably rear 2 lambs each this year coming with little input needed from you. You could then sell the lambs followed by the ewes and probably double the money you would make on them now.

roosky

DJ98 wrote: »

Have a few ewes that are 3yr olds now, didnt go im lamb last year but didnt bother to sell them as had plenty of grass, would these be better sold and buy hoggets or is there a chance they will go in lamb this year.

A study in Athenry, by Tim Keady found that you shouldn't cull for barrenness and that you have as much chance of picking the lotto numbers as the ewes being barren again this year.

Id hold onto them at this stage price is gone anyway for them

stantheman1979

A study in Athenry, by Tim Keady found that you shouldn't cull for barrenness and that you have as much chance of picking the lotto numbers as the ewes being barren again this year.

Ok sure if we're not going to cull barren ewes we won't bother putting out rams at all cos Tim Keady says so

MayoAreMagic

stantheman1979 wrote: »

Ok sure if we're not going to cull barren ewes we won't bother putting out rams at all cos Tim Keady says so

I believe the point is not all ewes that didn't lamb should be classed as barren and culled.
3 year old ewes in very good condition - basically animals in the prime of their lives - can surely offer more than being culled to the factory?

Unless they are repeat offenders or troublesome in general, I think that is poor business management to be honest about it. What is the point of raising them from lambs if you are just going to cull them when they are coming into their prime on the back of not going in lamb once? Fair enough if they are pushing on but young ewes?

Surely the thing to do is get them in lamb the next year, let them use that great condition they are in now to rear two fine lambs and sell all three the next year. Minimal input, maximum output.

stantheman1979

Any beef meetings I go to tell u to calve heifers at 22-24 months and sheep experts say to put ewe lambs in lamb to maximise output. If ewe lambs are rearing a lamb then 3yo should be also. Fair enough I take you're point she's in her prime but if she's dry she's costing money. Get rid of her and keep a ewe lamb that will do the job for her!!

serfspup

roosky wrote: »

A study in Athenry, by Tim Keady found that you shouldn't cull for barrenness and that you have as much chance of picking the lotto numbers as the ewes being barren again this year.

I am buying a lotto ticket:D
this guy is wrong there is a multitude of reasons for a ewe being barren some are temporary but lots are permanant.and I reckon about 50% will stay barren.

scan here and empties out the gate.if nothing else it pays a bill.

gave a pass to one two years ago she didn't lamb as a two tooth so as a three tooth she looked great and rejected her lamb:mad:

MayoAreMagic

stantheman1979 wrote: »

Any beef meetings I go to tell u to calve heifers at 22-24 months and sheep experts say to put ewe lambs in lamb to maximise output. If ewe lambs are rearing a lamb then 3yo should be also. Fair enough I take you're point she's in her prime but if she's dry she's costing money. Get rid of her and keep a ewe lamb that will do the job for her!!

3yo should, you are right. But maybe there is a reason they were missed that particular year that you arent aware of?

As for the ewe lamb, well is that actually accurate though? Will the ewe lamb rear two lambs like a 3 year old? Or will she need more meal than a now-strong 3 year old, both before and after lambing?
Furthermore these 3yos were deemed good enough to keep, is this extra ewe lamb of the same class? Or would she normally have been sold?

My point is, i think you have to take each case on its merits and a cull always policy can end up actually costing you even more in potential earnings. These animals will need f all minding from now til this time next year and will probably rear two strong lambs on autopilot. Let her pay back what she cost you when she is in such a good position to, then sell her.

Username John

MayoAreMagic wrote: »

My point is, i think you have to take each case on its merits and a cull always policy can end up actually costing you even more in potential earnings. These animals will need f all minding from now til this time next year and will probably rear two strong lambs on autopilot. Let her pay back what she cost you when she is in such a good position to, then sell her.

Agree in this case...

But, I think a cull always policy can be good - as long as you running a fairly high sticking rate. If getting rid of an empty means grass for the Ines that are left, when grass could be lean - I think it's the smart thing to do...

It all depends on what kinda system you're running really...

If it extensive, and you can afford a cheap passenger - go for it...
If you are running at capacity, then I would say cull when you can, don't carry any passengers...

Each to their own really...

ganmo

The sums are fairly simple

Sale price of the cull ewe + maintaince for the 12 months. Let's say 85 + 50
Vs
Cost of ewe lamb/hogget. 120/180

The maintaince cost depends on how you'll manage them for the year. For us it's simple to put them on the hill with the hoggets but if youre running them with the ewes and lambs or in a bunch on their own it'd be more costly

Farmer_3650

roosky wrote: »

A study in Athenry, by Tim Keady found that you shouldn't cull for barrenness and that you have as much chance of picking the lotto numbers as the ewes being barren again this year.

Id hold onto them at this stage price is gone anyway for them

They could be infertile though. There has to be some reason they didn't get in-lamb.

stantheman1979

As for the ewe lamb, well is that actually accurate though? Will the ewe lamb rear two lambs like a 3 year old? Or will she need more meal than a now-strong 3 year old, both before and after lambing?
Furthermore these 3yos were deemed good enough to keep, is this extra ewe lamb of the same class? Or would she normally have been sold?

My point is, i think you have to take each case on its merits and a cull always policy can end up actually costing you even more in potential earnings. These animals will need f all minding from now til this time next year and will probably rear two strong lambs on autopilot. Let her pay back what she cost you when she is in such a good position to, then sell her.[/quote]

Well we breed our own replacements so the price of a cull plus the cost of keeping her will run a ewe lamb and her lamb for the year. We just leave the ewe lambs with one lamb the 1st yr and in yr 2 they rear two lambs on autopilot! I've given ewes and cows 2nd chances in the past. Never again!! Anything not producing is out the gate. I've plenty of material replacements so I've no qualms keeping them. It's ok on the hills where u don't have much stock and don't spread fertiliser it doesn't cost much to run sheep but I'd have to look at her every day and she would make my blood boil looking at her!!

roosky

serfspup wrote: »

I am buying a lotto ticket:D
this guy is wrong there is a multitude of reasons for a ewe being barren some are temporary but lots are permanant.and I reckon about 50% will stay barren.

scan here and empties out the gate.if nothing else it pays a bill.

gave a pass to one two years ago she didn't lamb as a two tooth so as a three tooth she looked great and rejected her lamb:mad:

Im not saying hes right, Im just saying !

Lambman

What's everyone dosing lambs with at this stage? 3 weeks since a white dose have lambs away so will be 2-3 weeks b4 next batch is ready so gonna dose again thinking of cydectin oral dose.. few started getting dirty again.

Farmer_3650

I dosed all lambs for fluke and worms on Friday. I used a dose called Albex which I have never used before but the vet recommended it. Withdrawal period of only 4 days on it.

Lambman

Farmer_3650 wrote: »

I dosed all lambs for fluke and worms on Friday. I used a dose called Albex which I have never used before but the vet recommended it. Withdrawal period of only 4 days on it.

Bit early for fluke yet? I Never dose for fluke till September.

orm0nd

Farmer_3650 wrote: »

I dosed all lambs for fluke and worms on Friday. I used a dose called Albex which I have never used before but the vet recommended it. Withdrawal period of only 4 days on it.

Lambman wrote: »

Bit early for fluke yet? I Never dose for fluke till September.

plus the fact that Albex only covers adult fluke, when the it's the inmatures that cause most problems in sheep

ok as a worm dose though

Farmer_3650

Lambman wrote: »

Bit early for fluke yet? I Never dose for fluke till September.

I don't dose for fluke this early either but it's all in one dose. I'm not worried about fluke yet, it's worms I'm concerned about since I have a few dirty lambs (especially the Suffolks). As I said it's what the Vet recommended so we will see how it goes.

Hard Knocks

Noticed a lamb with scab, was thinking of using ivomec super (recommend here).
How much would you give (40kg) & how long before he could be killed

kk.man

Hard Knocks wrote: »

Noticed a lamb with scab, was thinking of using ivomec super (recommend here).
How much would you give (40kg) & how long before he could be killed

It's Ivomec Classic you use. Super doesn't do sheep. I would use .5 ml and repeat dose in 7 days. You must follow it up in 7 days. That's my advise it worked for me but consult your vet. The problem with scab is that more than likely your whole flock is infected and you have to do them all.

I think the withdrawal period is 22 days.

Hard Knocks

Thanks, was going to do them all anyway

roosky

Lambman wrote: »

Bit early for fluke yet? I Never dose for fluke till September.

especially with the summer we are having, land is very dry compared to last few years