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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

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magicbastarder

the chainset would generally wear more slowly than the chain and cassette, so i doubt you'd have to worry too much about it. teeth start to look 'sharkfinned' on a work chainring. but there's no harm replacing the chain at this point; i've seen various comments about replacing them after 3k or 5k, or even 8k kms. depends on the sort of riding you do. shouldn't cost more than €20 for a new chain.

Harrybelafonte

I have a set of these: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/shimano-ultegra-road-wheelset-6700/rp-prod76736

Rear wheel got to stage it was a bit wobbly. Hubs felt a bit rough. Brought to LBS, they told me hubs were f'ked, packed them with grease as they couldn't get the parts and sent me on way. All owrked out fine, but they're gone again, as I was warned they would.

However, I've since found this: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/shimano-ultegra-wh6700-rear-hub-axle-assembly-y4fp98010/

I used parts numbers from: http://www.sjscycles.com/Drawings/Shimano/Shimano_Ultegra_WH-6700-F_Tech_Doc.pdf

and this: https://smartbikeparts.com/images/library/large/WH-7850-SL-R.png

Have I done this right? Can I get this parts using the numbers listed and sort my hubs?

Type 17

Yes and no - the parts you can buy above may sort the problems, but the cup of the hub (hardened steel "bowl" pressed into the left side of the hub) and the RH cup (part of the freehub assembly) may be damaged/worn, and these are not easily replaceable (the RH one can be changed by changing the freehub, but the LH one is pressed into the hub, and is not available as a spare, nor possible to remove). If your wheels have good (not too worn/buckled) rims, you might remove the axle and inspect the cups - they need to have a perfectly even wear-ring with no pitting, and the wear ring should be as narrow as possible (less than about 1.5/2mm), otherwise the cups aren't worth buying the kit for.

Harrybelafonte

Type 17 wrote: »

Yes and no - the parts you can buy above may sort the problems, but the cup of the hub (hardened steel "bowl" pressed into the left side of the hub) and the RH cup (part of the freehub assembly) may be damaged/worn, and these are not easily replaceable (the RH one can be changed by changing the freehub, but the LH one is pressed into the hub, and is not available as a spare, nor possible to remove). If your wheels have good (not too worn/buckled) rims, you might remove the axle and inspect the cups - they need to have a perfectly even wear-ring with no pitting, and the wear ring should be as narrow as possible (less than about 1.5/2mm), otherwise the cups aren't worth buying the kit for.

Thanks, I had only considered one side of the cup in the equation. I know the mechanic knows his stuff, so I'd say they're gone. Thanks again.

Harrybelafonte

Sorry, just to clarify here, as I can't buy a new hub, I'm f'ked right?

cdaly_

Why can't you buy a new hub? There are 20h rear hubs to be had (not necessarily Ultegra). If the dimensions are the same, you can just build the rest onto the new hub.

That said, it's usually the rim that wears out so it may not be worth buying a new hub.

Type 17

Harrybelafonte wrote: »

Sorry, just to clarify here, as I can't buy a new hub, I'm f'ked right?

You can buy a new hub, but as mentioned, if the rim is worn, and you also factor in the cost of rebuilding the wheel with a new hub (more time-consuming than just swapping a rim, as the spokes have to be re-laced), then it may be cheaper to buy a new wheel, even with an Ultegra hub involved.

PS: Try to buy wheels with cartridge bearings, because all the parts that wear get changed with the new cartridge, when the time comes.

Harrybelafonte

cdaly_ wrote: »

Why can't you buy a new hub? There are 20h rear hubs to be had (not necessarily Ultegra). If the dimensions are the same, you can just build the rest onto the new hub.

That said, it's usually the rim that wears out so it may not be worth buying a new hub.

Dimensions are not the same to the best of my knowledge.

Type 17 wrote: »

You can buy a new hub, but as mentioned, if the rim is worn, and you also factor in the cost of rebuilding the wheel with a new hub (more time-consuming than just swapping a rim, as the spokes have to be re-laced), then it may be cheaper to buy a new wheel, even with an Ultegra hub involved.

PS: Try to buy wheels with cartridge bearings, because all the parts that wear get changed with the new cartridge, when the time comes.

I know, but I wanted tubeless wheels and these were the best option. Thanks.

Type 17

Fair enough, and I must say that two of my three bikes have cup & cone hubs, so while cartridge bearings are best, they aren't all that common.

Harrybelafonte

Type 17 wrote: »

Fair enough, and I must say that two of my three bikes have cup & cone hubs, so while cartridge bearings are best, they aren't all that common.

Yeah, well, they didn't change the design for the latest rendition either

Type 17

Hmm, there's more money in the worn cups / buy new wheels scenario, methinks...

Harrybelafonte

Type 17 wrote: »

Hmm, there's more money in the worn cups / buy new wheels scenario, methinks...

Agree.

StevieGriff

Anyone have experience with mixing Shimano chainrings before? MD's with MB's for example. Looking to run 52/39 (MD & MB) instead of 52/36 (both MB).

Macy0161

Still trying to get the hardtail back on the trail. Rear shifters are stuck. Tried to follow a youtube video to unstick and not having any joy -
even though on the outside it looked to be the same shifter as the video, it was different underneath and I can't get it back together and working! So will any (shimano) 9 speed shifter work?

Beginning to realise why the LBS were suggesting it might not be worth spending money on it, but I'm kinda happy to plod away as I'm spreading the cost and paying no labour....

Type 17

Macy0161 wrote: »

Still trying to get the hardtail back on the trail. Rear shifters are stuck. Tried to follow a youtube video to unstick and not having any joy -
even though on the outside it looked to be the same shifter as the video, it was different underneath and I can't get it back together and working! So will any (shimano) 9 speed shifter work?

Beginning to realise why the LBS were suggesting it might not be worth spending money on it, but I'm kinda happy to plod away as I'm spreading the cost and paying no labour....

Assuming that it's not the cable that's sticking, is the issue that the lower (thumb) lever is not returning fully after pressing, thereby not fully releasing the mechanism, and preventing the upper (forefinger) lever from being able to work?
If that's the case, try removing the circular cover that rotates with the thumb lever (remove the small phillips screw and unhook the cover). If it works ok without it, the cover has warped over time (seems to be an issue with some Shimano flat-bar models). File away the edge of the cover as required.
Maybe it's not that - what are the symptoms?

Macy0161

Type 17 wrote: »

Maybe it's not that - what are the symptoms?

Changed cables as I thought that was the issue. It's the top one not engaging at all - changed up, but won't change back down. I thought it may be the cables that were fecked (which they probably were).

Opened it up to try and clean it, and springs and everything came apart (even with the shifters flipped, so bottom was the top).

It's not that time is necessarily more precious than money, but I can get an Alivio 9 speed for under €20 delivered, so kinda in a debate about whether to spend more time on it or right it off. Bike was sat up for a long time!

Type 17

For the money involved and, given that the only way to reassemble a shifter like that is to have an identical-but-assembled one to copy, I'd say get a new one.

moonboy52

What is the story with degreasing and re-lubing?

I have a Park Tool Cyclone Chain Scrubber CM5.2 and Muc-Off Bike Cleaner Concentrate (using it in the scrubber) and Muc-Off Dry Lube.

I know dry lube needs to be re-applied more than wet.

Would degreasing after say 150k (3 cycles) be acceptable?

Would you add dry lube every cycle?

Complete noob here

Type 17

I'd suggest that the best way to maintain a chain is by eye, rather than by km or time - take a look at it after each ride, but don't do anything unless it needs it - if you only go out in dry weather on clean roads, you may not need to do anything for a few rides, and even then just some dry lube may be fine, but if you go out on a particularly wet winter day (roads dirtier/possibly salty in winter), you might even need to add some lube during the ride (if the chain begins to make the "rustle" sound of a dry chain) as well as degreasing afterwards to get rid of the dirt/salt.

There are a million opinions about how best to keep a chain clean, but the best practice/least hassle tradeoff is to keep it from getting too dry or too dirty, and measure it regularly with a chain-wear measuring tool, with a view to replacing it before you need to replace both it and the cassette.

Remember that all chains wear out no matter what you do (the only way to prevent it is to not ride the bike!), so don't kill yourself spending loads of time on it. Obviously you can keep the wear process slower by avoiding lots of cross-chaining and keeping it lubed and fairly clean, but there's no need to be too religious about it - yes, treat it well, but ultimately, treat it as a consumable like brake pads or tyres.

moonboy52

Thank you Type 17.

Great advice there. Appreciate your time.

Wishbone Ash

D13exile wrote: »

...I'm also concerned about the pedals. I got Keo Look pedals with the bike but they're mostly plastic. I'm no lightweight and I'm wondering if the years of my weight pressing down on them might have weakened them structurally

In my experience, the plastic itself doesn't break but becomes detached from the spindle. I've had Look Keo's break on two occasions as I ignored the tell tale signs and kept using them. If the pedal becomes stiff and resistant to spinning by hand or when trying to clip in, then I'd change them. (You won't notice the resistance while actually pedalling).

moonboy52

Type 17 wrote: »

measure it regularly with a chain-wear measuring tool

Would this cheap tool do the job you reckon on a 9-speed Sora?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/x-tools-chain-wear-indicator/rp-prod10219

Wishbone Ash

moonboy52 wrote: »

Would this cheap tool do the job you reckon on a 9-speed Sora?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/x-tools-chain-wear-indicator/rp-prod10219

Yup.

(I use a similar one with a different brand name - I think they are all made by the same company and branded to order).

moonboy52

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

Yup.

Sweet, Thank you Ash, added to the wishlist (that is growing strong:p)

magicbastarder

all bike chains have the same link length, it's the width that changes as the number of gears change.

crosstownk

Type 17 wrote: »

(the only way to prevent it is to not ride the bike!)

Blasphemy.

robyntmorton

crosstownk wrote: »

Blasphemy.

And that's a maximum fine of 25k if it gets reported to the guards.

Better buy Crosstownk an N+1 before he gives that statement...

(Incidentally, it's also the best way to solve any bike maintenance issue)

Type 17

crosstownk wrote: »

Blasphemy.

robyntmorton wrote: »

And that's a maximum fine of 25k if it gets reported to the guards.

Better buy Crosstownk an N+1 before he gives that statement...

(Incidentally, it's also the best way to solve any bike maintenance issue)

Hey, I only mentioned that the concept existed, I didn't recommend it as a plan :eek:

route66

I recently fitted a Continental tube (link) to my bike, along with a GP4000SII tyre. The fitting was ok (as in, the usual PITA

) but I found I had a problem - great difficulty pumping it up.

I have been using an AC-powered pump (link) with a Presta-Schrader Valve Adapter (link) for nearly 10 years without difficulty, but with the Continental tubes, the adapter doesn't seat very well and therefore the air doesn't go in. I tried other things: a Lezyne Pressure Drive Mini Pump (link) and another pump that was lying around but with no luck. I also tried screwing the adapter in very tight, but this still didn't work very well and caused the separate valve in the tube to unscrew when I took the adapter off :eek:

In the end, I gave up and swapped the tube out for a Halfords tube and this worked as expected.

Is the tube faulty or are Continental tubes just "different" ???

68 lost souls

since I started cycling a couple of years ago I have only ever used Conti Race 28 tubes and have never had a problem. Did you open the valve fully?