Black_Knight wrote: » Hey all. Any reason I shouldn't get a TP-LINK Wi-Fi Smart Plug with Energy Monitoring | HS110 ? I don't have an Alexa, but i'd like to be able to turn a couple of sockets in the house on/off remotely (either while on the same network, or when my phone's using mobile data.).
kennM wrote: » HS 110 is a little more expensive than the HS100 (Have a bunch of them myself), added feature is the monitoring. Both should serve your need very well. Personally can't fault the HS100s although I'd like a HS110 or two just to see how much energy certain things use.
Black_Knight wrote: » Cheers. Only €5 in the difference between them in HN. Worth the energy monitoring for it. I had plans to buy an energy monitoring plug/socket for the PC anyways, so win win. I'll use it for a benchmark and then repurpose the plug for something smarter. I dont fancy killing power to the PC just to power it of. Teamviewer does that for me.
WHAT'S NEW New products and integration coming soon. Stay tuned! - Fixed various bugs and improved reliability
Jaden wrote: » Look into the Sonoff stuff, it's been posted here before. You'd get a wifi switch to do this for under a tenner delivered.
john4321 wrote: Could anyone recommended a wifi smart switch for an electric pump or immersion? The pump has a regular on-off switch like below.
Stoner wrote: » John, I'd strongly advise against getting something like the Sonoff switch for this. They are ok. I have two, but they are pretty cheaply made, a standard immersion is rated at about 13 amps. The SNOFF claims its rated at 10 but personally I'd only use it for 5 so if have a fused spur , 5 amp along side it. Using the SNOFF on an immersion would be very dangerous imo you'd need to get any wiring carried out here completed by a registered electrical contractor. Lightwaverf RF have two options here both are 3000watt rated so a 13amp spur protecting them would be ok. The electric heating connection unit or the larger single channel contactor would do the job. Note lightwaverf is not two way reporting for its power modules so you turn it on and off but it doesn't confirm back if it's on. I've have many of their devices and I have other power modules like Samsung etc that do feed back. However lightwaverf is a UK product and they are well made this is a big plus when it comes to larger inline electrical switching where copper and ratings come into effect. I would only use SNOFF modules for small loads, certainly not for anything continuous like an immersion.
john4321 wrote: Really appreciate the feedback. Im happy to leave the immersion as it is but would like to add WiFi switching to the shower pump. Looking at the lightwavef it seems like an expensive solution £90 hub and £80 switch.
Stoner wrote: » What's the rating on the shower pump? Typically switching loads like this is carried out by using a contactor you can tap into the lv side of the contactor then.
john4321 wrote: Looking at the spec sheet the current is 1.9 amps and a fuse rating of 5 amps.
Stoner wrote: » That's reasonable. I'd still have a fused spur before the SNOFF , I fuse mine down so a fused spur with a five amp fuse before both the SNOFF and the pump would be good.
john4321 wrote: Looks like it will do the trick nice little unit. Can anyone recommend a seller? I see most of them are from China on eBay.
Stoner wrote: » That's where I got mine
IK09 wrote: Does the TP Link HS100 smart plug integrate with Smartthings?
bk wrote: » TP Link Kasa smart products, including all their plugs work with GHome now So it looks like the TP-Link smart plugs are getting a better ecosystem surrounding them, more similar to the Wemo plugs. However they still have a few things to add, hopefully we will see the following in time: - Official IFTTT support - Integration with Logitech Harmony - Yonomi and Stringify support
OU812 wrote: » Wemo don't support Homekit, correct? Do TP Link?
J.pilkington wrote: » Have had the Tp-link energy monitor for a few weeks now and decided to try and use it today from outside the home for the first time and it seems you have to be on the same wifi. (I'm getting a message saying remote control disabled so maybe it's a setting issue). Didn't realise this and if this is correct it's a big disappointment for me.