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Labour Saving and General Guntering

emaherx

How about using this thread to show off our engineering skills (or lack of!)
A lot of us have home made or improvised labour saving tools / implements lying around. Similar to stuff in Farmers Journal labour saving compettions. (without the prize money:p).

Maybe we could use this thread to share interesting ideas and discuss improvements.

I don't have any pictures at the moment of my own but I will take some at the weekend if not before.

My own projects include:
Quick hitch for front loader (fairly rough but works), designed to fit Trima implements onto MF loader.
Adapter to fit bale lifter onto front loader.
Various other loader attachments spikes etc.

Current project is a wrapped bale transporter being built out of remains of an old Muck Spreader. (only just started, currently just an axle and draw bar).

Their maybe other stuff around too, I'll have to have a look.

So what are peoples opinions, is this a good idea for a thread?

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lakill Farm

uncle talking about buying an 8ft land roller and I was going to go halves with him as he isn't a millon miles away.

has anyone ever added a hydraulic road wheel kit to a standard roller?

8ft roller €1150
8ft with road kit €2850

Nekarsulm

lakill Farm wrote: »

uncle talking about buying an 8ft land roller and I was going to go halves with him as he isn't a millon miles away.

has anyone ever added a hydraulic road wheel kit to a standard roller?

8ft roller €1150
8ft with road kit €2850

Seems crazy money for what amounts to a ram, a pair of wheels and some box iron.

EDIT. Actually cheaper to buy a standard model each, and keep on your own place, than buying a single roller with wheels, and still have 600 euro change......

patsy_mccabe

All you need on each farm is two holes in the ground for the two wheels and a lockable frame with wheels. No need for a hydraulic ram.:D

Just drive the wheels into the holes, take out the locking pins, drive out of the holes. Simple.

stock>

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

All you need on each farm is two holes in the ground for the two wheels and a lockable frame with wheels. No need for a hydraulic ram.:D

Just drive the wheels into the holes, take out the locking pins, drive out of the holes. Simple.

'twoud't do here as the holes would fill with water as fast as you dig'em......... bt sure if I made a bit of a mound maybe that would work..........

Bullocks

Its not a big job to change the roller from 3 pt linkage onto the drawbar in the field , I dont see a big need for hydaulic job especially at that money

have2flushtwice

Off topic..... But Looking for a roller door for a shed. Needs to be big enough to get a quad through. Anyone got one lying g around?

satstheway

Bullocks wrote: »

Its not a big job to change the roller from 3 pt linkage onto the drawbar in the field , I dont see a big need for hydaulic job especially at that money

Don't think your supposed to lift a roller when full unless it has a steel axel and specified for lifting when full.

MickeyShtyles

have2flushtwice wrote: »

Off topic..... But Looking for a roller door for a shed. Needs to be big enough to get a quad through. Anyone got one lying g around?

Does it have to be a roller door?
Box sections with galvanise over. H section rollers. And a big ole lock.

stock>

have2flushtwice wrote: »

Off topic..... But Looking for a roller door for a shed. Needs to be big enough to get a quad through. Anyone got one lying g around?

Lock only keeps an honest man out.

The bigger and stronger the door the better and a roller door is easily opened, All one can really do is make it as hard as possible for the thieving scum to rob it, but if they want it badly enough they'll get it.

lakill Farm

Bullocks wrote: »

Its not a big job to change the roller from 3 pt linkage onto the drawbar in the field , I dont see a big need for hydaulic job especially at that money

Uncles tractor wount lift the roller when full and emptying and refilling would be a curse of a job. hence road kit

GY A1

lakill Farm wrote: »

Uncles tractor wount lift the roller when full and emptying and refilling would be a curse of a job. hence road kit

Some one on here did a diy conversion of a roller or something lately.
Remember seeing pics

patsy_mccabe

Might be a good place to ask - does anyone have a good tip for removing the nails (old style) from corrugated sheeting. I tried one already with a crowbar but only dented in the sheeting. I want to reuse the sheeting again if possible.
Was thinking of just cutting off the nail heads with a small hack saw.

Limestone Cowboy

GY A1 wrote: »

Some one on here did a diy conversion of a roller or something lately.
Remember seeing pics

Reggie did it last year I think.

MickeyShtyles

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Might be a good place to ask - does anyone have a good tip for removing the nails (old style) from corrugated sheeting. I tried one already with a crowbar but only dented in the sheeting. I want to reuse the sheeting again if possible.
Was thinking of just cutting off the nail heads with a small hack saw.

The ones with the rubber rings?

Nekarsulm

If they are the old fashioned really heavy nails with the plastic or lead washer, then you can usually get a grip on the head with a new pair of Vise-Grips and wind them out.

Otherwise a 4 1/5 inch grinder with a proper grinding disk. (as opposed to a cutting disk)

Spending the morning here fixing a break in an Orby Auger. You'd really want to use stainless bolts, the way ration rusts mild steel away.

patsy_mccabe

MickeyShtyles wrote: »

The ones with the rubber rings?

Yep, them the ones.

croot

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Might be a good place to ask - does anyone have a good tip for removing the nails (old style) from corrugated sheeting. I tried one already with a crowbar but only dented in the sheeting. I want to reuse the sheeting again if possible.
Was thinking of just cutting off the nail heads with a small hack saw.

http://www.ie.screwfix.com/makita-dga452z-4-angle-grinder-18v-bare-a13ec5.html

Used one of these to take off an asbestos roof of an old shed. Cut the nails where possible and put on a grinding disk if they were too deep. Very handy.

Corrugated as well so same principle.

patsy_mccabe

Nekarsulm wrote: »

If they are the old fashioned really heavy nails with the plastic or lead washer, then you can usually get a grip on the head with a new pair of Vise-Grips and wind them out.

Otherwise a 4 1/5 inch grinder with a proper grinding disk. (as opposed to a cutting disk)

Spending the morning here fixing a break in an Orby Auger. You'd really want to use stainless bolts, the way ration rusts mild steel away.

I'll try that, thanks.

9935452

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Might be a good place to ask - does anyone have a good tip for removing the nails (old style) from corrugated sheeting. I tried one already with a crowbar but only dented in the sheeting. I want to reuse the sheeting again if possible.
Was thinking of just cutting off the nail heads with a small hack saw.

Use a vise grip on the head of the nail and screw them out

tancoman

The way I always seen fellows taking out nails from corrigated sheeting that was to be reused was: Place the handle of a shovel (without the shovel head ) in the valley section of the sheet. This will prevent the sheet from being dented when pressure is being applied by either the nail bar or the hammer lug. Or as already stated, use a vice grip to twist them out. Either way a slow job.

Muckit

Nekarsulm wrote: »

You'd really want to use stainless bolts, the way ration rusts mild steel away.

Hassetts in Limerick are good for bolts. Stainless or you could go galvanized.

patsy_mccabe

Well I tapped in the crowbar enough to squeeze the rubber washer out and then pulled it out with the vice grip. Got the vice grip then on the nail head and twisted off.
I only want to take off one or two side sheets to increase air flow but the problem is there are nails right at the top in under the chute. Can't get at them to pull so might be easier to cut sheet 1 ft from the top.

TheFarrier

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Might be a good place to ask - does anyone have a good tip for removing the nails (old style) from corrugated sheeting. I tried one already with a crowbar but only dented in the sheeting. I want to reuse the sheeting again if possible.
Was thinking of just cutting off the nail heads with a small hack saw.

I use an old hoof nippers, found it unbelievably easy and effective. The one I used was of the finer type for horses feet, but I'm sure the ones for cows feet would be just as effective. The jaws are light enough to lift the pvc washer, and the handles long enough to provide plenty leverage. Short length of light timber (2x1") would prevent denting the sheets too

lakill Farm

Limestone Cowboy wrote: »

Reggie did it last year I think.

he built a whole new frame

Jb1989

Does neks point of two rollers still being cheaper than one with road kit make sense to you lakill, unless you's have a load of outfarms that it's always on road ?

have2flushtwice

MickeyShtyles wrote: »

Does it have to be a roller door?
Box sections with galvanise over. H section rollers. And a big ole lock.

Maybe would do the trick. Need it for later in the year so no panic on it. Saw one on adverts and it was for a shop door. Missed it. Have you a picture?

blue5000

I thought the mini digger on the trailer for driving the posts is a good idea, can't see the aluminium posts working too well round here though:)

satstheway

Just a quick question to the gunterers on here.3 Bay dry stock shed built to grant spec.
I want to throw a hoist onto the roof rsj to lift off bags of meal of trailer. What weight will these rsj's support 6-7 feet from wall?

stock>

satstheway wrote: »

Just a quick question to the gunterers on here.3 Bay dry stock shed built to grant spec.
I want to throw a hoist onto the roof rsj to lift off bags of meal of trailer. What weight will these rsj's support 6-7 feet from wall?

What span, size of RSJ, thickness of RSJ, proposed weight to be lifted, Existing roof load etc etc ..............................

satstheway

stock> wrote: »

What span, size of RSJ, thickness of RSJ, proposed weight to be lifted, Existing roof load etc etc ..............................

I will throw up a few specs of shed later.