bk wrote: » Well Philips Hue smart bulbs come in GU10 format, which can be used for recessed lighting. Now you might have to change the bulb holder to GU10, but depending on your setup, it maybe very easy to do (I replaced 13 of mine in less then 2 hours and that included removing stupid transformers). LightwaveRF do smart lightswitches, though I believe they might require a bit more work in a typical Irish home (need neutral at the light switch and deeper back boxes then typical). Stoner know a lot more about LWRF then me, check out his FAQ on it.
fionny wrote: » Thanks at 50GBP a bulb id be banjaxed in no time! My sitting room alone has 8 of those!
paulbok wrote: » The best bit of advice I can give at this stage is don't rush into picking a particular setup/brand to start with. Think what you want to achieve, is it just controlling the lights, using with the Echo or will you (like every addiction) want to add other devices that will interact with your lights, eg nest smoke alarm. Read up on what will integrate with what. Nothing worse that buying kit only to discover after it won't talk to anything else.
fionny wrote: » It seems to be the best option available by a long shot here... It seems like a massive hole in the market.... Massive.
bk wrote: » The problem here is that switches in Ireland and the UK are very different to the rest of the world. So you have plenty of options in the US, because it is such a big market. But few companies willing to put in the work specifically for a smaller market like the UK and Ireland. You do however have Energenie and LightwaveRF doing smart switches for the UK market.
fionny wrote: » Ya the lightwaverf seems like a good option... So do you buy the relay and hide it behind the switch? The most is a 2 switch option? Then I assume you can use the smarter things hub to connect it? Or do you need a different hub first?
bk wrote: LightwaveRF do smart lightswitches, though I believe they might require a bit more work in a typical Irish home (need neutral at the light switch and deeper back boxes then typical). Stoner know a lot more about LWRF then me, check out his FAQ on it.
fionny wrote: » Basically so this market is anything but easy still. Go with Lightwave and have to get a kango out to deepen existing switch boxes? I'm still not clear on if you can just use the Smart Things Hub straight for the Ligthwave relays or if you must have another hub for those first?
fionny wrote: Basically so this market is anything but easy still. Go with Lightwave and have to get a kango out to deepen existing switch boxes?
fionny wrote: I wont be wanting anything fancy. I have no dimmers in the house just bog standard light switches... the largest being 4 gang.
eddiem74 wrote: » I am starting to use Fibaro Dimmer2 modules behind my existing light switches. This module supports 2 wire (no neutral at switch) installation and allows on/off and dimming capability so you just need to change your bulbs to dimmable ones. Generally I have been installing the Dimmer Bypass module also as when using LEDs there is not always enough load so the lights can flicker or one light may stay on, but the bypass solves this so I always just install it by default now to minimize any issues later if bulbs change. My electrician does all wiring... Here is a quick overview of the installation of the prior version of the Dimmer module: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_icaFJb3Ho Dimmer2: http://www.vesternet.com/z-wave-fibaro-universal-dimmer-2-250wDimmer2 Bypass: http://www.vesternet.com/z-wave-fibaro-dimmer-bypass-2Some Compatible controllers: http://www.vesternet.com/compatibility/filter/index/sku/FIBEFGD-212/ I use the Home Center 2 as my controller probably overkill but I have it now. I am trying to stick with Fibaro as much as possible in the hope things work better/easier....but I am only getting started, buying items in sales and adding as I go.
wexfordman2 wrote: » I would recommend anyone doing this also, not to use normal light switches but to go for the momentary or retractive switches which make much more sense for smart lighting. Lots of ranges of these available too.
eddiem74 wrote: » Agreed...I am using some Varlight momentary switches but wondering about other brands / alternatives as I need to get some more. Any suggestions?
wexfordman2 wrote: » You can go for clipsal, I had them for a good few years, but replaced them all a few years back for minigrid which look great and are in modules so you can mix and match different switch types in the same plate, see below for a clip I posted on a different forumhttps://docs.google.com/open?id=0B1zlDoqP2HdxYVprVkxfZ1g0Y0U The above is a two gang one and they come with up to three gang in a single size face plate. For four gang you would need to go double faceplate, or else something like the clipsal ones which can get up to five buttons on a single faceplate, bit not near as nice looking. The above clip BTW was because someone on the forum asked me what they sounded like when pushed, so I recorded it for them.
wexfordman2 wrote: You can go for clipsal, I had them for a good few years, but replaced them all a few years back for minigrid which look great and are in modules so you can mix and match different switch types in the same plate, see below for a clip I posted on a different forum
bk wrote: » Well Philips Hue smart bulbs...
ED E wrote: » Just curious BK, why are people still recommending Hue? Other than easy install they seem to have very little going for them. If you want to effectively use them you have to abandon use of the existing switches do you not? Seems like a total dealbuster in my eyes. If I owned my own place it'd be the switches I'd replace then use €4 LED bulbs everywhere (love ~6000K white lights).
Stoner wrote: » I was never a fan of clipsal switches although you could get 5 switches in a one gang plate. I found them to be cheap units that hit a spot in the market by having a multi coloured range, the terminals are poor enough on them imo. OK for non load carrying applications but not mains 100 percent agree on the grid system. It's the most flexible option. In my place I have MK edge switches and a grid system where needed allows me to use inline units and keep the same accessories. I remember years ago when I'd just started out dimming units were very bulky. There was a huge derating factor for dimmers beside each other . There was a Belgian system, nicobus, handled blinds and dimming bocks you could use a grid system. We had a project for an Arabian Royalty client. The preference was Forbes and Lomax accessories and another very expensive make, antique bronze and in some places a clear plate that was installed over Persian carpeted walls where all you saw was a tiny brass circular grid push to make switch. Nicobus had just development what I remember as the first inline unit 250 to 800 watts each. (Not unusual to have 800watts back then on a decorative multi lamp fitting) The push to make switches with the inline dimmers saved the day. You can address any solution with them. Up to that a three gang dimmer was a double plate The only issue is obviously that you need a bit about you to wire them up and it puts people off them. The units that work from pulsing 230Vac are the best imo. As they maintain a traditional wiring system should you need to change back afterwards. Even some dali dimmable ballasts will allow a pulsed mains signal to sit alongside whatever overall control system you use. For me the fibaro units are very flexible. Lightwaverf looks good as they have matching sockets but they don't have the two way control (that some need to understand if they need or not) and you won't have them everywhere so they look different. You can match the fibaro into any arrangement (but you won't have great options on sockets) But I'd still cable it traditionally with neutrals at the switches ( even if you don't use it as a neutral in home av) it will give you the right amount of cables to keep your switches battery free. The only thing though with low voltage solutions is that you can drill a plate yourself and fit plenty of switches to it.
