Detailing chat

Ron Burgundy II wrote: »

Use a mix of car shampoo and water.

Thanks

also would using car shampoo take away from the final finish?

[Deleted User]

job seeker wrote: »

I posted here a while ago about clay bars. I was stubborn and went against advice given about the 3m play doh sh1t!

So....how did that work out for ya?! :pac:

punisher5112

job seeker wrote: »

Thanks

also would using car shampoo take away from the final finish?

No as you will need to wash the car after claying.

Make sure to deal tar 1st and start at the top.
Cut the clay bar into 4 and use warm water to leave it in so it stays soft.

ronnie3585

Also, I find it helps to start on the lights and glass. That way it breaks in the clay and gives you a feel for it without the risk of marring the paint. Use plenty of lube and you'll be grand.

(That's what she said)

MuddyDog wrote: »

What's the best product out there for making your car shine? Just pure shine.

90% of the battle is in the prep work!!

Wash, de-tar, de-iron, clay bar, quick wash and dry....then anything applied on top will look very well....but choosing what might suit you best depends on many factors, durability, colour of the paintwork, price, etc

edburg

MuddyDog wrote: »

What's the best product out there for making your car shine? Just pure shine.

As above although I'd say 95% is prep

Then something like a this

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections/waxes/products/goldfinger-goldwax-23-75-karat-gold-content

If you struggle finding that try this

http://www.zymol.com/solaris.aspx

:pac: :pac: :pac: :pac: :pac: :pac: :pac: :pac: :pac: :pac: :pac: :pac: :pac: :pac:

EDIT : But really best deep shine are normally your natural carnauba wax's but they will not give much more than 2-3 months durability.

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

So....how did that work out for ya?! :pac:

Never even bothered to order it. It was only by chance that I bought this clay bar, because it was the first time I seen it been sold in Halfords. I'm glad, I didn't bother with the cheap bar in the end though.

punisher5112 wrote: »

No as you will need to wash the car after claying.

Make sure to deal tar 1st and start at the top.
Cut the clay bar into 4 and use warm water to leave it in so it stays soft.

Ah right! Got ya!

De tar the whole car? I de-tared the car before, but to be honest with you I only de-tared it where I seen tar stuck to it..

The whole bar? Am I only going to get to use this once?

ronnie3585 wrote: »

Also, I find it helps to start on the lights and glass. That way it breaks in the clay and gives you a feel for it without the risk of marring the paint. Use plenty of lube and you'll be grand.

(That's what she said)

You can actually use a clay bar on lights and glass? I thought it was only for paint work.

edburg

job seeker wrote: »

Ah right! Got ya!

De tar the whole car? I de-tared the car before, but to be honest with you I only de-tared it where I seen tar stuck to it..

The whole bar? Am I only going to get to use this once?

You can actually use a clay bar on lights and glass? I thought it was only for paint work.

Is the meguiars one you got come in a black plastic box?? One's I get I cut/pinch a strip off not very thick and need it flat in hands before going about business.

Each strip should be one use and therefore 1 bar should see 4/5+ uses depending on bar sizes.

And yes work away thats not rough texture on car i.e plastics normally avoided.

Foxhole Norman

Clay is perfectly safe to use on paintwork, wheels, glass, lights etc. The Meguiars bar I found very good to be fair, a small bit would do the Yaris!

edburg wrote: »

Is the meguiars one you got come in a black plastic box?? One's I get I cut/pinch a strip off not very thick and need it flat in hands before going about business.

Each strip should be one use and therefore 1 bar should see 4/5+ uses depending on bar sizes.

And yes work away thats not rough texture on car i.e plastics normally avoided.

Yup the exact one. I thought it was kinda small when I first opened it to be honest..

Perfect!

Foxhole Norman wrote: »

Clay is perfectly safe to use on paintwork, wheels, glass, lights etc. The Meguiars bar I found very good to be fair, a small bit would do the Yaris!

Funnily enough, I thought it was really only for paint work. I don't know why.

Sound job, I can't wait to give this ago. But flat out with college, so it may be around christmas time before I get to try it out.

The Meguiars clay bar is only 100g, versus approx 200g on the average clay bar. Personally I'd cut it in two.

How much life you get out of a clay bar will depend on how badly the car is contaminated and how well you remove some of the contamination prior to using it. If you dont de-tar and de-iron, your clay bar will have to do more work, and thus becomes contaminated quicker. Even if you de-tar the whole car, you still might find signs of the clay bar picking up tar. Also, tar contains grit, so this is not something you want the clay bar to be lifting a lot of; the grit getting trapped between the paintwork and the claybar is not a good combo.

Lubricate the surface, slide the clay back and forth. It will feel a bit sticky / grabby initially, but with two or three motions back and forth it will slide more freely. Continue until the surface feels like its sliding on ice. Work in sections of approx 1.5ft * 1.5ft and move on once the clay is sliding freely. The first time you do the car will take you a while as you get a feel for how it works; the second time will be much quicker. If you drop the claybar on the ground, bin it!! It will have picked up dirt and grit. You have another section at your disposal anyways. Some people use a plastic sheet under the area they work, so if they drop it, its fine to use again.

After getting some flyby forte off Curran on Friday this happened this morning

I hate the blessington road!

Hope you hadn't applied the Forte??

Not yet! Can you not tell by the filth of the rest of it :-D

ronnie3585

Nightmare Arbo, is it salvageable or is a new windscreen required?

ronnie3585 wrote: »

Nightmare Arbo, is it salvageable or is a new windscreen required?

Not sure yet it's about the size of a closed fist I'll call my insurance today and see what they say

Curran wrote: »

The Meguiars clay bar is only 100g, versus approx 200g on the average clay bar. Personally I'd cut it in two.

How much life you get out of a clay bar will depend on how badly the car is contaminated and how well you remove some of the contamination prior to using it. If you dont de-tar and de-iron, your clay bar will have to do more work, and thus becomes contaminated quicker. Even if you de-tar the whole car, you still might find signs of the clay bar picking up tar. Also, tar contains grit, so this is not something you want the clay bar to be lifting a lot of; the grit getting trapped between the paintwork and the claybar is not a good combo.

Lubricate the surface, slide the clay back and forth. It will feel a bit sticky / grabby initially, but with two or three motions back and forth it will slide more freely. Continue until the surface feels like its sliding on ice. Work in sections of approx 1.5ft * 1.5ft and move on once the clay is sliding freely. The first time you do the car will take you a while as you get a feel for how it works; the second time will be much quicker. If you drop the claybar on the ground, bin it!! It will have picked up dirt and grit. You have another section at your disposal anyways. Some people use a plastic sheet under the area they work, so if they drop it, its fine to use again.

Thanks Curren for all that info,

I may not use the clay bar until I pick up some De-iron stuff, there would be no point.

Now my car hasn't ever seen a clay bar. So, will I see much of a result the first time around?

Also, After I wash, de iron, rinse, de-tar, rinse, clay, rinse, polish and finally wax.

How long will it last before I have to carry out the above steps again? Also, is a wash (using the two method bucket and mit thing of course

) enough?

Cheers.

You could wash, de-tar, rinse and begin claying, but the de-iron step only takes a few mintues extra, and makes the whole process quicker, as there will be far less contamination. Anyone who has clayed without and with a de-iron step will tell you that the paintwork feels less gritty.

Will you see much results - depends; if the car was a few months old, parked in a garage, the difference may be difficult to notice. If the car was the same age but parked under a tree for a lot of the time, you'll definitely notice a difference. Anything over a year old, doing any sort of mileage, there will be a vast difference...in term of the difference, Id put it along side giving the car a decent hand polish.
Disclaimer: getting up close and personal with your paintwork, and fully decontaminating it, may lead you wishing you handnt started.

After you go through the decontamination, polish and protection process, all you should need to do is wash and dry the car, until such time the paintwork is showing signs of the protection needing topping up - some will apply a fresh coat, others like to start the process again...generally the whole process is something people aim to do twice a year.

Curran wrote: »

After you go through the decontamination, polish and protection process, all you should need to do is wash and dry the car, until such time the paintwork is showing signs of the protection needing topping up - some will apply a fresh coat, others like to start the process again...generally the whole process is something people aim to do twice a year.

What the protection process? That's not wax is it?

I don't understand, topping up with which product?

Is that all? I thought this was one a week job.. :P

job seeker wrote: »

What the protection process? That's not wax is it?

Wax, or whatever sealant you use

I don't understand, topping up with which product?

Topping up would be giving the paint another coat of whatever sealant you used above.
Without having to go through the full proccess.

Is that all? I thought this was one a week job.. :P

Hope that helps

vectra wrote: »

Hope that helps

Perfect! Cheers lads..

MuddyDog

Was thinking of Plasti Dipping the car emblem front and rear (Audi 4 rings). Would this product be the correct one?

http://www.iplastidip.ie/product/pla...aerosol-spray/

Has anyone any experience of plasti dipping car emblems?

I'm going to apply some flyby forte tomorrow, have a shed sorted for the 4 hour cure time can anyone tell me if I'm wrong but from what I know the application process (prep aside) is:
1) a few drops on the applicator and apply in circles
2) using the same applicator with no extra drops go over the area it was just applied to.

Is this considered levelling out the peaks and valleys? I'm a little worried about messing it up somehow, so any advice is greatly appreciated.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vg7nHkSCfA0

Arbo94 wrote: »

I'm going to apply some flyby forte tomorrow, have a shed sorted for the 4 hour cure time can anyone tell me if I'm wrong but from what I know the application process (prep aside) is:
1) a few drops on the applicator and apply in circles
2) using the same applicator with no extra drops go over the area it was just applied to.

Is this considered levelling out the peaks and valleys? I'm a little worried about messing it up somehow, so any advice is greatly appreciated.

This may help you.

166man

Whats the idea behind the carpro flyby lads is it a more advanced rainx?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xTPme9_Ab9Y

166man wrote: »

Whats the idea behind the carpro flyby lads is it a more advanced rainx?

In a word.
Yes.

Ron Burgundy II

Will it not cause the wipers to skip and judder over the windscreen when in use? I find putting any product that causes water to bead off the windscreen to interefer with the wipers.