Detailing chat

- Wash using the 2BM & Rinse
* Detar & Rinse
- Use Korrosol Fallout Remover all around & Rinse
- Clay all around & quick wash with 2BM
- Dry
- Polish
- Wax or Sealant; not necessary to do both, but you can; sealant 1st

Usually start with the inteiror, so the ground isnt wet, etc, when starting into the interior
If you mean clean plastics on the exterior, make sure thats all done before you wash after the claying...otherwise you are dragging dirt onto the paintwork again

- Take pictures, post on 'Today I did some Detailing!'

Murt102

Noccy_Mondy wrote: »

Too much washing for my liking!

I was thinking that but just to be sure :pac:

Curran wrote: »

- Wash using the 2BM & Rinse
* Detar & Rinse
- Use Korrosol Fallout Remover all around & Rinse
- Clay all around & quick wash with 2BM
- Dry
- Polish
- Wax or Sealant; not necessary to do both, but you can; wax 1st

Usually start with the inteiror, so the ground isnt wet, etc, when starting into the interior
If you mean clean plastics on the exterior, make sure thats all done before you wash after the claying...otherwise you are dragging dirt onto the paintwork again

- Take pictures, post on 'Today I did some Detailing!'

I'll follow this routine so, and if I have time I'll try get the parents car done too.

Trying to build up my post count so I can go back posting links and photos! You might find me commenting on random threads over the next few days

vectra

Curran wrote: »

- Wash using the 2BM & Rinse
* Detar & Rinse
- Use Korrosol Fallout Remover all around & Rinse
- Clay all around & quick wash with 2BM
- Dry
- Polish
- Wax or Sealant; not necessary to do both, but you can; wax 1st

Usually start with the inteiror, so the ground isnt wet, etc, when starting into the interior
If you mean clean plastics on the exterior, make sure thats all done before you wash after the claying...otherwise you are dragging dirt onto the paintwork again

- Take pictures, post on 'Today I did some Detailing!'

Confused...
I was always in the belief you seal then wax??n

Sorry.....sealant 1st....was running out the door earlier and a screaming child!

I am absolutely goosed. Spent from 6.30 until 12 last night on the car and from 7 this morning until 12 today. I'm sore and tired but the CSL and EXO are on the car with the second coat of EXO curing so all the hard work will pay off.

Imagine trying to do it as a living and people constantly questioning the value of your work!

Curran wrote: »

Imagine trying to do it as a living and people constantly questioning the value of your work!

Tell me about it! I put at least 10 hours altogether into the polishing and prep. The paint was in great condition but it's always nice to give it a bit of a cut and a jewelling while you can before applying ceramic.

Cheensbo

Can't win when working outside - paint is too fecking hot to work with today on the 190e.

Passed a concrete lorry the other day in my Caldina and the dumbass was overloaded so it was spilling everywhere. I now have a little splodge of concrete on my front bumper, no stones just an abrasive mix of sand/cement.

Any ideas how to remove it without scraping the crap out of the paint?

Power washer should remove it? No?
You might be left with a slight stain on the paintwork, but a quick hand polish should remove it.

ronnie3585

Curran wrote: »

Imagine trying to do it as a living and people constantly questioning the value of your work!

After spending around 12 hours on the car over the bhol weekend I've a new appreciation for people that do it for a living.

To remove the concrete, soak a cloth in tap water and leave it sit on top of the concrete. It should soften it enough to remove it.

Hi guys! I've seen a few people apply 2 coats of Fusso and leave 12 hours between!! If I want to top with King of gloss how long should I leave it between coats? Is the 12 hours completely necessary?

Hal1

The longer wax is left to cure the more durable it becomes. Looks at it this way, you wouldn't walk on cement before it dries.

Hal1 wrote: »

The longer wax is left to cure the more durable it becomes. Looks at it this way, you wouldn't walk on cement before it dries.

True but there's a certain point where the cement won't dry anymore and that's the point I'm looking for! Is that the 12 hours? Or is it more or less than that?

conzy

Washed the car friday evening. It had about 1000km of crap on it. Very easy wash it with the nano coating. And it dries so easily as the dry me crazy soaks up a lot of liquid but also just shoves it off the car.

Alloys were 90% ok after just a powerwash but a quick spray of trix and a rub with a mitt had them 100%

ronnie3585

Great to see you're stocking DAs now Curran. I'll be investing in one this side of Christmas, I've been looking around online already and the selection isn't great so delighted to see you're selling them now. Although my bank account won't be as delighted!

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

This evening after work is when my ceramic prep begins. Last few small bits of polishing and a wash. Tomorrow will be a wipedown and glass clean followed by 2 or 3 IPA wipedowns. Then it's time for Gtechniq Crystal Serum and 2 coats of Gtechniq EXO. Once that's done then I'll be applying another few coats of Gtechniq G1 to the glass while I have the chance with the car being indoors.

Further down the line I'll be sending my passenger side wheels to Rim Solutions to get them repaired due to kerbing and then it'll be more crystal serum and exo on them all. Just hope I can get that done before CS and EXO go off

Let me know how this goes please! ðŸ˜ðŸ˜ I am planning to do the same but some wet sanding before hand to remove orange peel. Won't be until next summer but any advise would be much appreciated

Arbo94 wrote: »

Let me know how this goes please! ðŸ˜ðŸ˜ I am planning to do the same but some wet sanding before hand to remove orange peel. Won't be until next summer but any advise would be much appreciated

Have you any experience with applying these kind of coatings?

I've used EXO and C1 Crystal Lacquer quite a bit but this was my first time using crystal serum and it was an absolute dream. As always you just need to buff further from where you've applied and make sure all residue has been removed. Care, patience and doing your homework are paramount with anything like this. Also be aware that while you can apply EXO on top of crystal serum almost immediately (as long as you follow the same panel process you did with the CSL) the car HAS to stay fully dry for at least 12 hours after you've finished.

ianobrien

You know, this detailing lark is getting a tab obsessional. I was away for the weekend parked next to the coast. Theres plenty of sand/dust on the motorhomes after the bit of mist and a dusty lane we drove. When we came back home today, I had to wash the dust off the vans this evening (just water used) before washing them properly during the week.

I remembered to wash under them too!

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

Have you any experience with applying these kind of coatings?

I've used EXO and C1 Crystal Lacquer quite a bit but this was my first time using crystal serum and it was an absolute dream. As always you just need to buff further from where you've applied and make sure all residue has been removed. Care, patience and doing your homework are paramount with anything like this. Also be aware that while you can apply EXO on top of crystal serum almost immediately (as long as you follow the same panel process you did with the CSL) the car HAS to stay fully dry for at least 12 hours after you've finished.

No I've no experience with these coatings and realise that I might be jumping in the deep end with them but I don't mind if I mess it up tbh once I learn from it (car will more than likely be getting resprayed anyway) Keeping the car dry for 12 hours isn't a problem and correct me if I'm wrong but can you not use infrared lamps to speed up cure time? I might have access to some for a weekend

weekaizer

Hi guys I just bought a 2003 Bmw 325ci in imola red and I really want to sort the paint because I've seen imola red look so well on other cars in the past.
I've already made a start by washing, claying, de taring, iron x, I've also used a dual action polisher with menzerna 450 and orange pad hex logic, it still looks rather oxidised even after my work. I'm wondering will t cut or some type of compound be OK to use to try and restore the deep red lustre to it?..

Foxhole Norman

weekaizer wrote: »

Hi guys I just bought a 2003 Bmw 325ci in imola red and I really want to sort the paint because I've seen imola red look so well on other cars in the past.
I've already made a start by washing, claying, de taring, iron x, I've also used a dual action polisher with menzerna 450 and orange pad hex logic, it still looks rather oxidised even after my work. I'm wondering will t cut or some type of compound be OK to use to try and restore the deep red lustre to it?..

If I were you I'd be using Menzerna 2200 on a green or white hex logic pad, that should really refine and bring it back, wax on top of that and you'd be good to go!

Arbo94 wrote: »

No I've no experience with these coatings and realise that I might be jumping in the deep end with them but I don't mind if I mess it up tbh once I learn from it (car will more than likely be getting resprayed anyway) Keeping the car dry for 12 hours isn't a problem and correct me if I'm wrong but can you not use infrared lamps to speed up cure time? I might have access to some for a weekend

Messing up with Crystal Serum isn't something you want to do but you don't need to use it. Since you're starting off you should use C1 Crystal Lacquer which can be easily polished off if it doesn't go well. You can polish off Crystal Serum light but it's a good bit more work. With regard to using infra red lamps, I haven't heard of anyone doing it and I have never heard of Gtechniq recommending it. In theory you could but it's never been mentioned.

These products are quite expensive so if you're thinking about respraying anyway I wouldn't bother with them.

Noccy_Mondy

Tips for removing the sticky residue left from the balancing weights, petrol aint doing much? One wheel has loads left

Foxhole Norman

Noccy_Mondy wrote: »

Tips for removing the sticky residue left from the balancing weights, petrol aint doing much? One wheel has loads left

I'd use a proper tar and glue remover, should be strong enough to remove it, something like Tar-X or Tardis!

*Kol*

HG sticker remover is very good. It's sold in DIY stores.