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Detailing chat

Hi I've been thinking it'd be nice to have a thread where simple questions that people don't want to create a thread for, could go. Or any chat related to detailing.

I've a question. If I've put a wax on, then a sealant. Then after a few weeks or w/e I'm thinking the shine isn't what it was. (After washing obviously) Can I apply wax on top of whatever sealant and wax is left from the first time, or do I have to remove the remaining sealant + wax first?

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edburg

Curran whats the line up of products per department for car pro??

I know couple are obvious but I keep seeing delux being mentioned for everything from wheels, tyres rubber window bits etc etc and couple detail sites have it as one product covers all to.

Just when I had quick smooch about there website it didnt come across as easy to identify which product was what to me, but it was a quick smooch through.

i.e

panel wipe down/IPA = CarPro Eraser
Wax/sealant =
Polish =
Interior =
etc
etc
etc

Curran

Chemical Guys Bare Bones might be for you!

Noccy_Mondy

Yeh, I'd say i've tried everything on them, rain or a puddle takes everything off.

That said, found some old demon shine wet look tyre stuff, put it on the arches Sunday, still good! Then again, there hasn't been any rain..

Curran

Noccy_Mondy wrote: »

While ye're on about arches, anything else good for them, mine always look brown, even after apc. Take from the finished look

Any dressing will darken them - the thing is, unlike tyres, they wont suffer sling - so you can use anything really, from water based, gel based, etc. The only thing is you'd want something fairly durable give the abuse the arches take!

Curran

Turns out CarPro went back to the old formulation 3 months ago! Happy days....can go back to recommending it to folk, when the new batch arrives, as Id avoided recommending it on tyres, based on Vectra's experience!

Noccy_Mondy

While ye're on about arches, anything else good for them, mine always look brown, even after apc. Take from the finished look

ronnie3585

Thanks for the info! I'll stick to the Megs Endurance:)

Curran

Vectra had an issue where his tyres turned brown after they got wet. CarPro acknowledged that there was a slight change in the formulation that after testing did produce a browning discolouration, and were working on changing the formula to resolve this, or go back to the original. After my own research, I'd seen a few cases of it occur, but in Vectra's case, it was the most extreme change I'd seen.....dont blame him for not wanting to use it on the tyres again, as it was pretty bad. However, Ive also seen plenty of glowing recommendations for it as a tyre dressing.
This reminds me to follow up with them to see if the formula has since been revised!

ronnie3585

vectra wrote: »

I notice you ordered Carpro Perl?
Excellent stuff for engin bay. Interior plastics. ( I would dilute if using on dash )

Do NOT use it on the tyres. Get something else for those.

Any reason you advise against this? There are some glowing reviews online of layering 1:1 Perl/water on tyres.

traco

Curran wrote: »

Remove the Chemical Guys Chubby, unless you plan to use it for buffing the PERL on the plastics or similar!

Done and I will use it for the external plastics, not worth worrying about €5 in the overall context of the order.

vectra

conzy wrote: »

I went mad doing the CarPro stuff on the car to the point that I have used dlux and reload in the arch liners and calipers

Big update coming soon in the other thread

LOL
I did the same
Arch liners
Plastics in engine bay and boot
Well worth it though.
Arch liners never seem to stay dirty.
Must give the engine bay its first blast down this week actually.

ianobrien

Curran wrote: »

Yes, there would be no issues with graphics or coloured plastics, nor glass, perspex, etc.

Reload offers very good hydrophobic properties, better than the Collinite. Cant give personal feedback on Reload, as I only applied it recently to my car, but they say up to 6 months - even if it were only 3-4 months, its so easy to apply, it would only take a matter or minutes to top it up. Also, it can be applied to a wet car...so the other day when I used it, I finished washing it, and used it almost like a drying aid. A tip Id give, if you go for it, is to have two buffing cloths - one for lifting the initial product on the panel, and a 2nd to buff it to a perfect finish, as it can leave slight hazing if buffed with a cloth that has become quite saturated with the product. And best to wash it with a shampoo with no gloss enhancers, etc, such as CarPro's Reset.
Purely for ease of application, even if durability wasnt quite up to Collinite (though I would say it will be similar) it is worth giving it a try. And a little goes a long way. Literally a misting is all that is needed.

Thanks. I reckon I'll give it a try when I've the bottle of Collinite used.

Curran

conzy wrote: »

I went mad doing the CarPro stuff on the car to the point that I have used dlux and reload in the arch liners and calipers

Best get on top of it when you can, while the car is fresh! Good work!

How are you finding the products? I suppose you'll only be basing the decision based on prep and application; and further down the line when the benefits become more apparent would be a better time to ask!

Curran

Remove the Chemical Guys Chubby, unless you plan to use it for buffing the PERL on the plastics or similar!

traco

Cool - changes made. Good to go??

conzy

I went mad doing the CarPro stuff on the car to the point that I have used dlux and reload in the arch liners and calipers

Big update coming soon in the other thread

Curran

traco wrote: »

Are you better staying with a single brand for all in terms of optimizing compatibility or does it matter?

There is no need to stick to product from the same brand when doing things like washing, de-tarring, de-ironing, claying.
But when applying products in layers, for example; hand polish, glaze, wax, then, as a rule of thumb, its best to stick to one brand, as they'll have been designed to work well together. Mixing products here may not work so well; maybe someone else has tried it in the past and works well, then by all means, but so as not to cause a possible issue, stick to the same.

In your case, washing with Reset, will ensure the surface isnt going to have any additives, so the Reload will work without issue as you arent layering anything underneath.

Curran

CarPro IronX Snow Soap is pretty much a once off application through a lance, so will work out very pricey.
Korrosol is a very good product also - getting a bit more for your money too.
Maybe change the CG's Chubby Microfiber to a Microfiber Madness Crazy Pile, a bit pricey, but its quite large, and Id cut it into two sections, and it will be perfect for buffing the Reload.

traco

Carpro Perl, I was going to use that on the bumpers and side trim. Its black plastic / rubber and seemed to be the product to protect it also unless there is an alternative?

Do I need both Reset and Erasor? What about the de Iron stuff, is that fall out remover the same or should I replace that with one of the Iron X products? Are you better staying with a single brand for all in terms of optimizing compatibility or does it matter?

There's so many products that I could really do with an idiots guide to this stuff.

vectra

You might consider adding Carpro Erasor, Give the whole van a wipedown prior to application of reload ?
Also
I notice you ordered Carpro Perl?
Excellent stuff for engin bay. Interior plastics. ( I would dilute if using on dash )

Do NOT use it on the tyres. Get something else for those.

traco

Curran - just been on the site and put together a shopping list.

Few extra things added for the plastic trim and also to wash it beforehand and use going forward to wash it.
Can't copy the list easily from the cart so snapshot below.
Would Carpro IronX be better than the Bilt Hammer one or would the IronX snow soap do the job of both??? Should I change some of the brands or are we good?

Curran

Yes, there would be no issues with graphics or coloured plastics, nor glass, perspex, etc.

Reload offers very good hydrophobic properties, better than the Collinite. Cant give personal feedback on Reload, as I only applied it recently to my car, but they say up to 6 months - even if it were only 3-4 months, its so easy to apply, it would only take a matter or minutes to top it up. Also, it can be applied to a wet car...so the other day when I used it, I finished washing it, and used it almost like a drying aid. A tip Id give, if you go for it, is to have two buffing cloths - one for lifting the initial product on the panel, and a 2nd to buff it to a perfect finish, as it can leave slight hazing if buffed with a cloth that has become quite saturated with the product. And best to wash it with a shampoo with no gloss enhancers, etc, such as CarPro's Reset.
Purely for ease of application, even if durability wasnt quite up to Collinite (though I would say it will be similar) it is worth giving it a try. And a little goes a long way. Literally a misting is all that is needed.

ianobrien

Curran, can the CarPro Reload work on graphics and coloured plastics? You can guess why I'm asking as I'm half dreading having to redo the Motorhomes with Collinite. Both are due and one has to have "the works" done before the end of August.

At the moment, the Collinite is bloody brilliant as no streaks are sticking. Would the CarPro Reload apply as much of a protection or is it not as comparable to waxes for durability, finish, etc.

traco

Curran wrote: »

I'd give it a de-iron and then seal it.
Something like CarPro Reload would do a very nice job on that. Simply mist on, buff in. Would take about 25 mins to do the whole van. Durable too.
Or if looking something even easier check out CarPro Hydro2. Spray on, power wash off, dry it. Job done!

Sound - will take a look so on the site and order it, better to do it now rather than later.

Curran

I'd give it a de-iron and then seal it.
Something like CarPro Reload would do a very nice job on that. Simply mist on, buff in. Would take about 25 mins to do the whole van. Durable too.
Or if looking something even easier check out CarPro Hydro2. Spray on, power wash off, dry it. Job done!

traco

New wagon for the company - picked up on the first of the month. Only 250kms on it so far. Its stored in the warehouse 90% of the time and only used for transporting our own equipment / custom deliveries.

I'd like to keep her looking smart but wondering if doing a proper job would be worth it or complete madness. If I was to do a decent job on it where would you start given I have no idea what was done prior to delivery, also bear in mind its huge so really don't fancy a suggestion like clay bar it!?!?!?!?

cena

heroics wrote: »

cena wrote: »

Its meant to last six months[/quote

I was wondering this as well.

Think I need to give it a break then. Only got the 845 the end of May and gave the car the 3rd coat on Friday. Afraid it would wear off. ðŸ˜¬ Also used chemical guys hybrid v7 after washing between applying the 845.

Guess this means cleaning will be quicker from now on

I have two coats on the black astra. Doing a fine job.

[Deleted User]

The last few times I detailed my wheels I used Fusso but the last time I used Collinite 845. I did a full prep i.e. wash, de-iron, de-tar, wash, dry, IPA x 2, leave in the sun to dry and warm up a bit, 1 coat of CHemical Guys wheel Guard followed by 2 coats of Collinite.

THe last time I did it was about 2 months ago and the beading is still there. I use Bilt Hmaber Auto Wheel (touchless) once a week to clean them so it proves that AW really is Ph balanced.

vectra

shietpilot wrote: »

Has anyone tried to use 845 to seal the wheels? Googling about I see people have done it with good results. What would be a good wheel sealant?

Yes.
Prep the wheels 100%
two coats of 845 or even 3 if you have time. Leave a nit of time between coats.
Super job.

[Deleted User]

More than likely rain drizzle so. It's a true pain in the arse because all the dust in the rain stays on your car once the water evaporates.