BABY HI CAPA WITH A DIFFERENCE

F.U.B.A.R wrote: »

offer asking on laser whats the postage on it or are you in Mallow any time soon

Offer accepted F.U.B.A.R, I'm not near mallow anytime soon I could post it regular post it'd be around €1.35 if that's ok with you send me a PM and we'll go from there.
Cheers

LOOKHERE wrote: »

Is it green gas or Co2?

It's a gas mag Lookhere, it holds more BBs than a C02 mag will and the gas use is very good, you could always buy a 5.1 Co2 mag for it no mods needed.

grapeape wrote: »

trade you for a lovely kjw sig226 in tan with silencer and case that i got off a very nice boards member a little while ago and havent used it at all :P
ill throw in a louder for one of the mags you have up also

LOL You sir have a deal, oh man my jaws are killing me here lmao
To PM's

dinko4gr wrote: »

paint thiner to get the original color off and then sanding paper gradually going more refined ? if not please reveal your secrets master yoda

The paint thinner doesn't do anything for removing the coating I'm afraid, but there are other ways.
For the hand sanding method, use wet & dry sand paper starting at grades 600/800 then up to 1000, 1200 (1000, 1200 will leave a nice smooth finish), if you want to continue to a highly polished mirror finish you can go to 1800 paper and use a liquid polish (Brasso, Silvo, Briliant or any other type)

To sand flat objects just lay the paper down and run the part back and forth, that will save you getting worn out and cramped hands.
One important thing to remember is because most airsoft GBBs/AEGs are made from varying alloys you might need to sand some parts more than others to get to a smooth ready for polishing stage.

Also when sanding go in one direction on larger pieces like you would with a wood grain the general idea is to flatten and sand back the tiny pores in the metal this helps with the metal preservation as well as giving a good finish.

If you want to get around all the hand sanding you can use something along the lines of a dremel tool with abrasive buffs (coarse and fine) start with course to remove the anodized coating and use the fine buffs to give you a smooth finish, you can also get buffing wheels for the dremel and polishing compound, the dremel works very well for smaller parts like triggers, hammers, barrels even some topslides plus it is more precise if you want to leave little contrasting areas on the pistol.

If you want to avoid using a dremel you can use a bench mounted motor with buffing wheels.
The wheels come in various sizes and hardness' from goblet, 4", 6", 8" to huge, the only thing I wouldn't advise is using wire wheels because of the alloys used to make GBBs/AEGs, these alloys can be very soft and the wire wheel just eats into the metal much like using an 80 grit paper on your pistol, this will leave a very uneven surface that just won't look good.
The only downside to using a bench polishing set up is you will have to disassemble the pistol to work on the small parts like triggers & hammers etc

Personally for stripping the parts I use a palm sander, drum sander and Dremel for the awkward pieces.
Some people will say use an industrial strength paint remover that's fine but it's messy and you might not want to remove all the coating especially on the inside rail of a topslide plus the matt diffused finish still will need to be sanded to a smooth finish.

When polishing I use a bench grinder with 6" & 8" buffers and polishing compounds, it only takes minutes to polish a piece that has already been sanded/stripped.
I use two compounds one for flattening and the other for final polishing.

If you get to the polished stage and everything is sparkling you'll want it to stay that way so you can use any wax based product like car polish or even bees wax to seal the metal from the elements.
Not all polished pieces will need wax it all depends on how smooth the pre-polished metal is and the alloy, again it's all down to closing the microscopic pores in the the metal so a good smooth pre-polished metal will help it to keep it's shine for a long time.
From time to time you might want to break out the brasso or silvo and give the pieces a good ol cleaning.

I hope this helps, if you have any other questions fire away or PM me.

Cheers