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HRV and fire spread

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  • 25-09-2008 1:22pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭


    http://www.environ.ie/en/DevelopmentandHousing/BuildingStandards/PublicConsultations/PublicConsultationonPartF/

    there is an opportunity to address a compliance issue that often concerns certifiers - the height requirements for a room below a roof


    http://www.environ.ie/en/Legislation/DevelopmentandHousing/BuildingStandards/FileDownLoad,17944,en.pdf

    The wording associated with Diagram 3 ( I have underlined "suggested" below here ) could be altered to assist with dealing with many , many attic conversions .

    1.2.1.5 Ceiling height is one of a number of factors which affect ventilation of habitable rooms. The suggested dimensions in Diagram 3
    are consistent with good room design, the use of standard materials and good building practice.


    I would suggest that for attic conversions to existing houses that a reduced height of 2.2m will be acceptable provided that compensatory measures are taken - in the form of increased purge ventilation ( formerly known as rapid ventilation ) - veluxes , usually in practice

    So - don't be shy - we can ( all ) comment to the DOE at

    Building Standards Section
    Department of the Environment, Heritage and Local Government
    Custom House
    Dublin 1
    or e-mail: aidan_smith@environ.ie


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 2,292 ✭✭✭RKQ


    Excellent idea... well done!
    I agree that we should all read the draft documents and make comments, to the Building Standards Section where necessary.

    By the way there was an issue raised on another Forum, as regards Heat exchanger and house fire.
    It was felt the heating & ventilation exchanger might spead smoke around a dwelling unless they could be automatically turned off, once the fire alarm activated.

    Would it make sense to maintain the extraction function of the unit?
    Extracting toxic smoke from the dwelling. Maybe increased suction could be activated by the smoke alarm. Surely it could be done electronically without much alteration to the unit ( I'm no expert in this field ):)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy


    I have cleared this with the mods first

    I dont work for the company posted in the link below and do not stand to gain anything from this message

    When installing HRV units it is important to understand the significant risk of fire spread that they present .

    All upper floors must acheive at least 30 mins fire resistance . Typically we rely on floor boarding ( must be fully intact ) above joists and plasterboard below - must be fully intact

    Where ceilings are opened up for vent outlets - the fire resistance of the floor is shot to pieces . A fire will soon melt the outlet and duct away and attack the underside of the floorboards

    I have just found this purpose designed solution . I don't know if there is another on the market - but would be interested to find out .

    http://www.envirograf.com/acrobat/es110c.pdf

    Another important factor is that smoke not flames or heat is statistically the biggest cause of death from house fires . Any HRV system must be linked to either a fire alarm or smoke detector system to immediately switch off in the event of fire .


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,632 ✭✭✭heinbloed


    I can only agree with sinnerboy's warning. On the continent ALL air containing ducts, no matter what their original pupose is, must be equipped with fire proofing material and fire/heat/smoke detectors if they connect two or more separate apartments/houses . Not only they have to have alarms and emergency switch-offs build in they must contain as well so called "fire-flaps" which close automatically.If there are rooms supplied with both-airducts and open chimneys- then more specificated precautions have to be taken. The min. fire ratings of materials must not be altered with. These fire ratings are the only "life boat" in single homes/appartments where stricter building regulations are not in force-yet. EN standards are propably already being upgraded to deal with the European wide increasing number of air duct installations. Be prepared and don't put money into an installation that might be outdated tomorow.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6 mdinee01


    good link, thanks Sinnerboy, just a further query,
    " the fire will soon melt the outlet and duct... "
    - in a building with a concrete floor, surely this isn't as critical, as concrete should give you enough time (assuming that the HRV turns off when smoke detected)

    - regarding the automatic switch-off of the HRV in the event of a fire,
    is this a "common" feature of HRV or does it require work by an electrician (or a.n. other) to marry the fire-alarm to the HRV to switch off the HRV instantly.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy


    In a building with a concrete upper floor the risk is different . No , a fire which melts the vent outlet/inlet and duct will not then be able to pass through the concrte floorslab .

    But it will enter to ceiling cavity . That ceiling cavity will super heat super fast - I mean under 60 seconds . That heated cavity will melt everything in it releasing toxic gases that will find every crack and imperfection in the concrete floor - rising to intoxicate those above the floor . The duct in the room where the fire started will melt away and so the fire will quickly spread to the next space - where the duct entered from . If stud partitions are not absolutely tightly sealed to the concrete floorslab soffit - gases will enter the stud cavity .

    One of the nastiest , insidious types fire takes hold - superheated cavities can raise the temperature of the room spaces next to it to what is called "flashover point" . TV's, newpapers books , carpets , beds , sofas will ignite - even if not exposed to a naked flame

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKPfkrGDv7U&feature=related

    So - even in the case of a concrete upper floor - the same advice applies


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  • Registered Users Posts: 898 ✭✭✭bauderline


    Hmmm... The one thing I would say is that there is only so far you can go with trying to fireproof the various systems in your house. There is absoloutely no substitute for functioning well maintained smoke alarms in your home... and plenty of them !

    I have at least nine going into my new build at the moment. You want to know about any trouble early, then get out and stay out !

    P.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,489 ✭✭✭No6


    Good Point sinnerboy, in commercial buildings ducts going through fire resisting construction, wall / floors etc have to be fire stopped and have fire dampers, there's a large section of B3 in the TDG B dealing with it. HRV ducts and any other system that is passing through fire resisting construction in a dwelling house should be dealt with accordingly. Any fire officer I've talked to over the years has always siad they'd like more power / controll in relation to dwellings as most of the fatalaties from fire in this country are in dwellings.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 457 ✭✭Leadership


    Thanks for the heads up.

    Planning on using HRV in our build and didnt think about the fire risks or detection.

    Food for thought


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy


    RKQ wrote: »
    Would it make sense to maintain the extraction function of the unit?Extracting toxic smoke from the dwelling. Maybe increased suction could be activated by the smoke alarm. Surely it could be done electronically without much alteration to the unit ( I'm no expert in this field ):)

    I think it would actually - in principle . However I doubt many units commonly availabe could easily cope . The products of combustion are extremely hot - I mean they can reach hundreds of degrees . Most units - and associated ductwork - I have seen anyway would simply melt . Smoke extract ventilation ductwork has to be fire resistant - in terms of stability , integrity and insulation

    For now i think the principles of
    1. early detection of fire leading to
    2.automatic motor shut down together with
    3. containment of the outbreak ( firestopping )

    is about the best we can realistically expect to achieve




    .


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,292 ✭✭✭RKQ


    sinnerboy wrote: »
    I think it would actually - in principle . However I doubt many units commonly availabe could easily cope .

    For now i think the principles of
    1. early detection of fire leading to
    2.automatic motor shut down together with
    3. containment of the outbreak ( firestopping )

    is about the best we can realistically expect to achieve .

    I agree, that makes alot of sense.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy


    bauderline wrote: »
    Hmmm... The one thing I would say is that there is only so far you can go with trying to fireproof the various systems in your house. There is absoloutely no substitute for functioning well maintained smoke alarms in your home... and plenty of them !

    I have at least nine going into my new build at the moment. You want to know about any trouble early, then get out and stay out !

    P.

    Part B REQUIRES that you MUST fire stop . There is no case for " only so far you can go"

    Look at this - and see if you remain satisfied that smoke detectors will save you

    http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=jQV_MJwYQ3k&feature=related

    Oh and I did locate another fire stopping product

    http://www.scottaire.co.uk/circularvalves2.html


  • Registered Users Posts: 39,106 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    Regarding spreading smoke, I don't think exchangers actually mix air. Any air (containing smoke) extracted from a room is never sent back inside. The heat is transfered via plates or similar. Is my thinking flawed here?
    This could infact lead to removing some smoke.

    Obviously fire needs to be stoped, google "envirograf".
    They have all sorts of intumenant products, including grills with holes, when heated it expands to seal holes.



    edit: Re-read and seen sinnerboy mentioned it already


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,632 ✭✭✭heinbloed


    You're right, with a standard HRV system the two flows are seperated by the heatexchager. Larger installations as in shopping centers doe however mix the fresh air with a certain amount of stale air to save on costs for cooling or heating.
    Blowing fresh air into a fire spreads the fire of course, oxigene is THE fuel for a fire. As a general rule the doors and windows in a burning building should be kept close to hinder the fire by eliminating oxigene as well as hindering the fire/heat spreading from one room to the next. As well the smoke should not be allowed to spread.
    Most ducting in household aplications is not fire prof, so hot gases not saturated enough with oxigene sucked up by the HRV and then mixed with air(oxigene!) at the next junction can lead to a flash-trough phenomena, highly explosive gases will ignite by adding oxigene and flash through all the ducting. Shooting down into all rooms connected to, igniting all rooms at once like a flame gun held into the ducting.
    This is the major risk when no fire flaps are build in. The fast,sudden spreading of heat and smoke.These flaps close automatically, either triggered by heat, smoke or by the sudden pressure increase of the flash-through (an explosion!) itself.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy


    Mellor wrote: »
    Regarding spreading smoke, I don't think exchangers actually mix air. Any air (containing smoke) extracted from a room is never sent back inside. The heat is transfered via plates or similar. Is my thinking flawed here? This could infact lead to removing some smoke.
    Obviously fire needs to be stoped, google "envirograf".They have all sorts of intumenant products, including grills with holes, when heated it expands to seal holes. edit: Re-read and seen sinnerboy mentioned it already

    Listen to the audio comments on the you tube clip . Smoke reaches 200 degrees celcius after 3 mins . so the extract ductwork would melt away . supply air ducts would feed the fire as Heinbloed explains .

    The intumescents don't act quick enough to prevent the passage of extremely hot smoke . The damper , with fusible link options which can be set at 50 , 74 or 100 degrees - seems to me to be the best option

    Heinbloed - do you know any better product(s) ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,632 ✭✭✭heinbloed


    Hm, I'm not sure what you mean by "better products"?In principal an airsuply/ventilation system should be checked or comissioned by a fire inspector, someone who is actually trained. On the EU continent every larger city/community has one available to be called out.I supose if you call to the local firebrigade they'll will have a number for you to call.Civil engineers might be able to help as well.In larger buildings-where ducts are passing several independant units/rooms-airsuply ducts in new buildings must be explosive proof, propably fitted with an emergency outlet opening if a flash-through/explosion happens. Otherwise the entire ducting system might be ripped apart and the whole building will be set on fire at once.Ducts should be made as well of a fire proof material in larger buildings, not only air ducts but sewers as well. Steel, fibre cement etc..


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,632 ✭✭✭heinbloed


    For on-site construction of ducts the "red" plaster board can be used as well.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy


    this is another fire stopping vent point

    http://www.mech-elec.ie/electrical_products_details.php?number=377

    This employs a better principle than trying to make the ductwork fire resistant .

    Better to contain the fire and it's products of combustion ( hot smoke and gases ) at the outbreak location


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,632 ✭✭✭heinbloed


    The fire resistant ducts are a MUST in larger buildings, due to building regulations.
    An exhaust valve that closes due to temperature exposure does NOT stop combustible gases passing THROUGH ducts.
    ALL parts of a combustible duct will be penetrated by a fire.Since the duct will simply burn/melt away and the entering gas does what Gauss has formulated: it tries to reach an equal distribution.
    It will not even stop combustible/poisonous gases entering ducts as long as it's trigger mechanism is not exposed to a min. temperature.For example natural gas (methane) coming from a demaged pipe.
    A gimmic to soothen the worried mind.Certainly not enough to satisfy building regulations for larger buildings.
    The legally demanded "fire-flaps" are positioned within the non-combustible ducting. They work to photo mechanic triggers as well as to heat triggers.Some states demand that they have to be worked as well by CO triggers or methane triggers. And as well they can be closed and opened from a central point.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy


    This forum is Renewable Energies , sub forum of Construction and Planning , sub forum of Home and Garden . So I have been at all times talking in the context of domestic buildings .

    The ceiling inlet / outlet dampers are tested to resist the passage of smoke and fire - when temperatures of 50 , 74 of 100 degrees are reached , depending on the model selected .

    The You Tube clip commentaries posted earlier in this thread indicate that in a domestic fire outbreak , temperatures at ceiling level reach several hundred degrees in under 2 minutes . The dampers will shut typically after 30-45 seconds .

    I would not care to rely on fire resisting ductwork to convey smoke at several hundred degree temperatures around any house . I don't believe I have seen one domestic HRV fan-unit that would be capable ( fire resistant ) of coping with searing hot smoke to be exhausted through it . Better that the unit is powered down when the smoke detector or fire alarm is activated


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,632 ✭✭✭heinbloed


    Why should a hotel guest or a drinker in the pub be better protected then an idividual at home? Are there "first class life bouys" and "sesond class life bouys"? Why not?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy


    Some relevant guidance is indicated here - non domestic

    Uk regs , more explicit and helpful than Irish - in my opinion - on this particular subject

    http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/br/BR_App_Doc_B_v2.pdf .

    Page 86

    3 alternative methods of dealing with ventilation ductwork are cited . i.e. pick 1 of 3

    1. dampers ( like items referred to earlier in this thread )
    2. fire rated enclosures
    3. fire rated ductwork

    So the use of dampers is acceptable

    On the question of HRV units exhausting smoke - I repeat - and stand to be corrected -

    HRV units are intended to
    - be on constantly 24/7
    - move air slowly , - principly to recover heat - creating little noise and drafts
    - be cost effective to run - consume as little power as possible

    So they tend to be made from lightweight materials , needing small motors very combustible , easily melt-able , totally unsuitable for exhausting smoke at temp's at hundreds of degrees

    Smoke extracting systems on the other hand

    - operate on standby - there for emergency use
    - move air quickly - very quickly - they are trying to DUMP heat not recover it . Noise reduction is not a consideration
    - are fabricated using metallic materials , heavy , non combustible - . Designed with powerful ( power hungry ) motors to activate the fans - hardly suitable for efficient 24/7 cost effective heat recovery purposes







    ( did all this really need to be pointed out ? ) :confused:


  • Subscribers Posts: 41,101 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    so the end result being that a HRV systems should simply be connected to the fire alarm system and set to shut down in case of fire....???


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy




  • Registered Users Posts: 1,632 ✭✭✭heinbloed


    How would a smoke sensor fitted to the ventilation unit react if the smoke can't reach it because the ducting had been closed at the damper(inlet or outlet)??


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy




  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy


    heinbloed wrote: »
    How would a smoke sensor fitted to the ventilation unit react if the smoke can't reach it because the ducting had been closed at the damper(inlet or outlet)??

    Smoke sensors are required in all cases ( HRV or not ) typically

    - at top and bottom of stairway
    - the living room ( or rooms )
    and
    - a heat detector is required in the Kitchen

    This is building regulation MINIMUM standard . Nothing to stop detectors in other rooms too

    They must all be co linked i.e. one sounds - all must sound

    It is this collection of detectors which should be relayed to the HRV fan motor to stop it in case of fire


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,632 ✭✭✭heinbloed


    One detector for the unit to switch it off-that is the logic solution. Having a dozen or more dampers in the house all connected to the ventilation unit via wires makes the system very expensive and unsafe in itself. The dampers themself are an obstacle in the air transport system b.t.w., the system has to work harder to get the necessary amount of air passed. But with dampers the build-up of combustable gasses and their sudden ignition within the ducting can't be stopped.And this would mean a flame thrower/-gun hitting into all rooms incl. the (ventilated!) rescue paths at the same moment . Setting the entire house ablaze within a second. Consuming all present oxigen.Blowing out the dampers like champagne corks.Gases don't have to be hot or soot enriched to be explosive.So neither room dampers or smoke sensors or heat sensors will hinder the ignition of a gas filled duct. This simply can't be avoided. But the consequences of this ignition can be calculated and influenced. One can't use the cheapest live vest of course. Only a fire proof ducting material capeable of withstanding a sudden increase of pressure which includes self-triggering flaps (triggered by vibration and gravity)in combination with overpressure outlets at the building (we're talking about a gas explosion within the ducting after all!) are a halfways safe method to avoid a sudden ignition of the entire building.And if smoke alarms are installed all the better.Using the cheapest available gimmic and adding it to a cheaply constructed ventilation system is certainly not the best available method. And certainly not safest as well.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy


    Heinbleod - I can't really add anything more usefull . We have to agree to differ


  • Registered Users Posts: 45,862 ✭✭✭✭muffler


    This thread has ended up a 2 horse race. I cant see any good reason to leave it open as I think the "arguments" will only end up being repetitive and dare I say it - boring when it gets to that stage.

    Thread locked.


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