Cuba

Varadero beach is great, but the area is pretty touristy - ok if that's the type of holiday you're looking for. Personally I think you're better off splitting your time, a couple of days on the beach and then staying somewhere in the city if you want to sight-see. You can just walk around the city, it's beautiful. Walk the Malecon, which is much like the prom in Galway. Go to a market on Paseo (kinda middle street in the city) and another one near the Cathedral (Plaza de la Catedral).
Make sure to go through Havana Vieja (Old Havana), walk or drive. It's quite dilapidated but has amazing architecture.
There's a huge cemetery (Necropolis), which, if you're not creeped out, is amazing to see.

Make sure you have nothing valuable in your suitcase as more than likely it won't be there when you arrive. Keep it in your hand luggage. You will see a lot of the other passengers shrink wrapping their luggage.

You can spends days just walking around Havana, the place is incredible. Totally safe and locals very friendly. Some kind of silly law where they aren't supposed to talk to tourists but if you are offered dinner in somebody's house take them up on it. For a few euros and a couple of bottle of Bacardi you'll have a great time.

Was there in 2011 with a mate. Still the best holiday I've been on. I've a load of notes from it that I'll try and dig out and post for you so this is from memory.

We spent 4 days in Havana in the famous Hotel Nacional, and 7 nights in Varadero.

Just go and explore Havana, it really is a 'blink and you'll miss it' city. You have to go to one of the Casa de Musicas, I think there are 2 or 3 of them. These are the salsa houses that open around midday and locals just sing and dance to all kinds of Reggae for hours. Nothing better than getting thought how to salsa by some gorgeous local girl.

The Necropolis as someone mentioned is incredible. Lots of amazing tombs etc. We also got to the Museo de la Revolucion. Lots of great info on the war and Castro etc.

Not sure if they still do this, but make sure they *DO* stamp your passport.

Back in 2008 when they were stamping passports they stamped a piece of paper and put it in your passport. I've since lost the piece of paper so pissed off I don't have a Cuba stamp in my passport

Kinda reminds me of when I went to Uruguay and as luck would have it on the Entry AND Exit the rubber stamp didn't work so I got a little bit of black ink that represents my Uruguay visit with no discernible mention of Uruguay (huhuh)

btw good choice of Air France for the trip, they tend to be very generous with the drinks tray on the flight to Cuba as it's certain everyone on the plane is going there for vacation rather than a business trip

Here are my tips on where to visit (I was there for 2 weeks as well)...

Vinales - Great location for hiking/mixing with locals (stay in a casa particular) ... and near to the best beach I've ever been to on the planet (Cayo Levisa) which is on an island offshore
(if you dive/snorkle go to Playa Maria la Gorda.. fantastic)

Trinidad - Lovely little town. Very photogenic plus plenty of tours of slave plantations etc. Very interesting.

When you arrive into Habana go for a mojito in San Ignacio plaza and watch the world go by

Damnit now I want to go back...

Bring Euros ... bring as much as you can.

I've got these notes from my diary when I went there...

MUST-HAVES

- Mosquito net and sleep-in sheet - mozzies are prevalent everywhere you go. Casa particulars or hotels. I thank every night that I slept under my mozzie net

- Energy bars - although the food in Cuba *IS* fantastic, I was glad to have about 20 energy bars along the ride with me whenever I had to get on an early morning bus and miss brekkie.

- Alarm clock and batteries - must have. Very early mornings are the norm for most bus trips.

- Factor 20 suncream - I went virtually black in 2 weeks using factor 20. The sun is extremely strong in Cuba!

- Pens/soaps/calculators/etc - These things are hard to come by for locals in Cuba. The look of appreciation on the kids face when I gave him the old calculator made his (and my) day.

- 1000 euro in CASH! - Credit cards get charged about 20% commission each time you use them, so where possible, bring as much cash as you can (or want), and keep it in a safe place. I spent a total of around 800 euro on the 2 week trip while in Cuba.

- Mobile phone - Mobile phone access is everywhere! You don't need a local sim card, can usually use the same one from Europe (I'm with o2, although I found people who were on other networks weren't always connected there).

- Batteries / Chargers - Can't buy decent batteries in Cuba, so I was glad to have a few sets for the various devices that required them. Also battery chargers worked everywhere (220V plugs)



I WISH I HAD BROUGHT...

- Spanish-English mini dictionary - hardly anyone speaks English at all, so you can try (as I did) to make your way around using broken Spanish (very hard), or you can arm yourself with one of these babies and make it so much easier to communicate.

- Balls - the one thing all the kids love there is baseball. The lucky ones have an old tennis ball they hit with a stick, but most of them are on the street hitting bottle caps with twigs. A few old tennis balls would have been great gifts! Better yet: baseballs!

mrcheez wrote: »

- although the food in Cuba *IS* fantastic,

Really? When were you there? My memory of Cuba in 2008 was that the food was terrible. I wish I had found some of the ones that you went to. I even went to restaurants recommended in the main guide books, hoping for something good but it was some of the most tasteless dry food I have ever come across. And is a nice touristy hotel in Varadero, the vegetables from the previous nights dinner were back on the buffet for breakfast! I am sure that there were some hidden gems, but good tasty food was not the norm. Plus you are paying a premium as you pay with the tourist dollar rather than the cuban peso. I paid about 10 dollars for a pizza and a beer. I went to a local restaurant with some cubans and paid about 1 dollar for the same thing. The state salary for a cuban is 20 dollars, so there wont be too many locals paying 10 dollars for a pizza & beer.

My other memory with restaurants was that service in general was poor. In one quiet restaurant, it was almost impossible to get the attention of the waiter to order coffee after my meal. They just didnt seemt o understand customer service or earning their tips! In another, they offered me a 4 course set menu, which I went for. After my main course I started talking to another tourist at the next table. A while later I noticed that the waiter was tidying up, getting ready to close up. I mentioned to him that I was on 4 course set menu but had not yet had dessert or coffee. He asked me if I wanted to order some? I asked him was he going to charge me the full price whether I had dessert & coffee or not and he said YES. So I replied, "well then yes, if you are going to charge me for it, then I want to order it". I speak some Spanish, so this was not a case of 'lost in translation'.

But I did see a documentary recently saying that things had begun to improve, now that there is a bit of private enterprise opening up. So my suggestion would be that if you like your food, then to do a bit of research before you go.

Here is an article from the Guardian, concurring that the reputation for food there was not good but is improving. It also gives some recommendations for places to eat.

http://www.theguardian.com/travel/2012/dec/07/havana-cuba-new-restaurants

But the positives far outweighted the negatives and I can't wait to go back to see more of this beautiful country.

Fizman wrote: »

We also befriended one local guy while down in Havana Vieja having a beer. We ended up going around the city with him for the day (he even brought us into his home and introduced us to his elderly parents - to see how local life is). We gave him the cash to pay at every bar/restaurant from there on as he could purchase for about half/third of the price we would have been charged.

I did the same thing.. Not intentionally. But it was a lot cheaper than paying the tourist price!

If you are in Trinidad, I would recommend Casa de la Musica, an outdoor square where both locals & tourists go for music & salsa. The atmosphere is great.

http://www.tripadvisor.ie/Attraction_Review-g285731-d3460041-Reviews-Casa_de_la_Musica-Trinidad_Sancti_Spiritus_Province_Cuba.html

Fizman wrote: »

I'd agree. The one thing you do not go to Cuba in search of is a fantastic culinary experience. I actually adapted to their staple of chicken and black beans/rice, but wouldn't be raving about it.

Yeah that's actually what surprised me the most about Cuba as I was prepared to experience dire cuisine. Sure variety ain't great but I remember having lots of delicious lobster, etc. I guess I was comparing it to the food I got in Central America the previous year which *IS* pretty dire.

Here's the entry from my journal...

CUBAN FOOD

The plentiful breakfast provided me with my first wake up call. Countless websites, friends, even the Lonely Planet book itself all warn of Cuba's terrible food.. yet my breakfast (and practically every meal I had on this trip) was actually delicious and healthy with huge portions you could barely stomach (as hard as I tried to look I couldn't find anything unpalatable in Cuba).

Sure if you're looking for Parisian-quality in your food then don't expect that to happen, but the food in Cuba isn't quite the vomit-inducing bland-fest that's described in the Lonely Planet, or on many websites.

You won't get sick from the food, or go hungry. In fact I thought the food in Cuba was of far greater quality and presentation than anything I had in Central America or Vietnam (for example).

Albeit, the vegetarians I met didn't seem to be so lucky though

One thing I WOULD mention though is that the menus in all casa particulars (for example) seems to be the same. I leads me to assume that casas are issued government-approved menus listing the 'typical' breakfast/dinners that a tourist would be accustomed to, e.g. every casa seemed to have the following for breakfast: an egg-dish of some sort (omelette, scrambled, etc), large jug of fruit juice, bread, guava jam (delicious!), fruit bowl, strong coffee. The dinners similarly have a main course of fish, lobster (illegal for casas to serve normally), chicken and desert of fruit plate.

Doesn't mean the menu is bad though, just the variety isn't great.

eh that's been answered several times already

Jaysus there's some bad advice in this thread unfortunately.

Regarding stamps on your passport; this is a dodgy practice. While it is possible to enter the USA with a Cuban stamp on your passport it may also result in you being turned away by some right-wing arse in immigration. I've heard of this happening more than once. Visiting some countries will predicate against you visiting others e.g. Iran, Israel etc and sometimes it's better not to take a risk with the stamp if you intend going to an opposing state at a later date.

currency, euros and pounds sterling are both equally beneficial in Cuba. Avoid US dollars as they're subject to a 10% tax on top of whatever commission they take. Count your money at the hatch in José Marti; they're adept at holding back the odd 20 CUC note.

baggage; shrink wrap it. I didn't bother the last time I went and nothing happened to any of our party but I've met plenty of people who've been dipped. They'll often just take your toiletries which will be a balls as they're hard to come by in Cuba.

Food; if you're going to the tourist resorts in Varadero on an all inclusive then yes the food will be brutal. Varadero represents nowhere but Varadero; places like that were initially concocted by Fidel to keep the tourists well away from anything resembling Cuba and to act as a siphon for dollars. Nothing more.

The best food you will get (in order of goodness);

Casa Particulares - As someone said there isn't massive variety but the food is usually tasty as f*ck and home cooked. Fried fish, lobster, roast pork, beans, salad, fresh juices etc etc. Often for around $10 a head. Can't be beaten.

Paladars - Private restaurants. Many will only have a few items on the menu but most of them are quite good because they're a family enterprise. Had a prawn and fish stew in one of them and it was the nicest dinner I had in a long time.

State Restaurants - Usually sh*te to be honest. You can tell them because everyone working there has a little ID card on their belt. Some of these are dire, especially the cafes. Sandwiches with manky processed ham and horrible plastic cheese. The coffee is surprisingly good though.

Hotel All Inclusive - Terrible buffet sh*te. The worst food in the world.

Tiendas - State canteens run for Cubans. They accept national pesos and provide little more than sandwiches, pork and rice. They're crap. But then again giant meals cost around 20p so what harm.

Language, try and learn a few words. Very few people speak English out there really. I was out boxing in Havana and the fact I was a white boxer who spoke Spanish meant I was nearly a f*cking celebrity when I was on my way to the gym everyday. I had kids swinging off my bag, trying on my gloves and fellas asking me every question under the sun.


Havana

The old town (Casca Vieja) is undoubtedly a draw but because there is a massive amount of tourists in a small area it will become the base of every jinetero (hustler) and jinetera (prostitute) in the city. You will be blackguarded every two seconds. Not just for taxis but with offers of whores, drugs, cigars (they're fake don't bother) and whatever you can think of. The prostitutes aren't all overage either for that matter, which is sad. People will pester you about your country and fill you full of sh*te under the pretence of being your friend or practicing their English. Most of the time this is nonsense but at the same time I met plenty of genuine Cubans I initially discounted out of paranoia and felt guilty after it, don't fall into that trap either.

If you want to see a part of Havana that is exempt from this b*llocks and full of normal, down to earth Cubans then head to Centro. Centro has local bars with local people, good music clubs and a genuinely great atmosphere. I'd take it over the Old Town anyday.

Also get a bottle of rum and get p*ssed on the Malecon. The amount of characters you'll meet will astonish you.

witnessmenow wrote: »

Realistically if someone starts talking to you on the street in Havana they are trying to hustle you. "Hey my friend where you from?", "no thanks" became the interaction I was having with people by the end, I felt like I was being pretty rude, but to be honest it was how we had to do. By far the worst part about Havana.

In fairness that's pretty standard in any 3rd (or 2nd world) country, especially in large cities.

I'm sure even in Dublin if someone came up to you out of the blue and said "Hey friend where you from?" you'd assume they were either drunk or about to rob/hustle you.

witnessmenow wrote: »

The day trip to Vinales was pretty interesting, but its a fairly long drive for a day trip. You could buy cigars on this trip, which are made on the tobbaco farms, so I guess they are counterfeits too.

The cigars you get on the tobacco farms in Vinales are the real-deal, albeit about 2000% cheaper than in the "official" shops.

I ended up taking home about 40 Romeo y Juliettas for approx 20 euro. Normally sell for approx €30 each in Ireland

mrcheez wrote: »

In fairness that's pretty standard in any 3rd (or 2nd world) country, especially in large cities.

I'm sure even in Dublin if someone came up to you out of the blue and said "Hey friend where you from?" you'd assume they were either drunk or about to rob/hustle you.



The cigars you get on the tobacco farms in Vinales are the real-deal, albeit about 2000% cheaper than in the "official" shops.

I ended up taking home about 40 Romeo y Juliettas for approx 20 euro. Normally sell for approx €30 each in Ireland

Maybe I haven't traveled enough, especially to poorer regions, but I have never seen that any where else. All guide books and forum posts go on about the friendliness of the Cubans, so at first I wasn't sure if some were going to be genuine... none were by the way!

If you were buying them for 50c a cigar you were buying them in a different place than me! As I said I paid 120 CUC for 25, saw me coming obviously.

Do you need to arrange a visa before going to cuba? Or can you get one on arrival?

kefflin wrote: »

Do you need to arrange a visa before going to cuba? Or can you get one on arrival?

Yeah you need one, I got mine in trailfinders