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Rear derailleur not shifting to the easiest gear

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  • 27-04-2015 10:38am
    #1
    Welshkev
    Registered Users Posts: 384 ✭✭


    I’m having trouble with my rear derailleur in that it won’t go shift in to the largest / closest to the wheel rear sprocket. I’ve indexed the gears and they shift perfectly (insofar as they change between gears 2 – 11) but won’t shift any further to the inside.

    It’s an Ultegra 6800 11-speed. Is there something I may not have thought of to fix this? I have 2 sets of wheels and it’s the same on both.

    Any help is appreciated!


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    #2
    Cee-Jay-Cee
    Registered Users Posts: 12,235 ✭✭✭✭Cee-Jay-Cee


    Was it previously working ok? if you've tried the barrels adjuster and still no go then your inner limit screw needs a turn or two.


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    #3
    Welshkev
    Registered Users Posts: 384 ✭✭Welshkev


    Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »
    Was it previously working ok? if you've tried the barrels adjuster and still no go then your inner limit screw needs a turn or two.
    Thanks - yeah, was previously working fine. I have a feeling it may have been knocked when it was left at work.
    I adjusted it using the barrel adjuster. I assume it's would be the High limit screw needing to be turned?


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    #4
    Koobcam
    Registered Users Posts: 828 ✭✭✭Koobcam


    Might also indicate a bent derailleur hanger. This can be fixed by bending the hanger back or you can probably replace the hanger for a small cost. Best to check this with a competent bike mechanic. Be careful also not to over-adjust the derailleur-you don't want to shift into your spokes


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    #5
    slurp
    Registered Users Posts: 17 ✭slurp


    you will need to release your rear mech cable to do your outer or inner limits and operate your mech with your hand get a friend to turn your cranks slowly turning screw quarter turn at a time till you get it up on big ring ie 28 or 25 whichever and then a bit more it will drop to the spoke side when you go too far if your mech hanger is bent you will need a mech hanger alignment tool ,don't just go bending it this way or that jb


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    #6
    Buzwaldo
    Registered Users Posts: 731 ✭✭✭Buzwaldo


    With indexed shifters, do they not have 11 'slots'. Is it possible that cable has stretched, and when in second slot he's in first(smallest) cog. Shifting up along he runs out of slots on the second largest cog?
    Always best to work on cable tension issues before messing with limit screws or assuming hanger is bent?
    YouTube derailleur adjustment or good lbs.
    Will admit speaking from limited experience. Others may advise better.


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    #7
    Welshkev
    Registered Users Posts: 384 ✭✭Welshkev


    Buzwaldo wrote: »
    With indexed shifters, do they not have 11 'slots'. Is it possible that cable has stretched, and when in second slot he's in first(smallest) cog. Shifting up along he runs out of slots on the second largest cog?

    I think this could be it - I only say that because the gear shifter won't allow me to 'shift' in to first gear. Also, I noticed whilst racing yesterday when I was in the 53/11 I seemed to have an extra 'click' to go in to a harder gear (wishful thinking at that point though!) but it started making that horrible rubbing noise trying to go in to a gear that wasn't there.

    So would I best releasing a bit of tension out of the cable?


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    #8
    ford2600
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,457 ✭✭✭ford2600


    Kevinleeowen wrote: »
    I think this could be it - I only say that because the gear shifter won't allow me to 'shift' in to first gear. Also, I noticed whilst racing yesterday when I was in the 53/11 I seemed to have an extra 'click' to go in to a harder gear (wishful thinking at that point though!) but it started making that horrible rubbing noise trying to go in to a gear that wasn't there.

    So would I best releasing a bit of tension out of the cable?

    By pass shifter.

    Can you get it into largest cog by pulling cable at chainstay?


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    #9
    Zen0
    Registered Users Posts: 469 ✭✭Zen0


    I had similar problems last year, but for different reasons than have been mentioned here so far. One of the strands on my shifter cable had frayed at the shifter end, and was preventing the cable from pulling the derailleur over the largest cog. Took me ages to figure it out. Try changing your cable, they're not expensive.


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    #10
    Buzwaldo
    Registered Users Posts: 731 ✭✭✭Buzwaldo


    Kevinleeowen wrote: »
    I think this could be it - I only say that because the gear shifter won't allow me to 'shift' in to first gear. Also, I noticed whilst racing yesterday when I was in the 53/11 I seemed to have an extra 'click' to go in to a harder gear (wishful thinking at that point though!) but it started making that horrible rubbing noise trying to go in to a gear that wasn't there.

    So would I best releasing a bit of tension out of the cable?

    No. I think you would need to add tension to the cable. As you shift up (to easier gear) you add tension with each click. If it's too slack initially, you are going up the second click to get the first shift.(That is assuming that my first post was correct in diagnosing the problem)


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    #11
    Buzwaldo
    Registered Users Posts: 731 ✭✭✭Buzwaldo


    ford2600 wrote: »
    By pass shifter.

    Can you get it into largest cog by pulling cable at chainstay?

    Yes, if my first 'diagnosis' is correct you should be able to get it into the largest cog by pulling the cable at the chainstay, adding extra tension to it. If not, the problem lies elsewhere.


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    #12
    slurp
    Registered Users Posts: 17 ✭slurp


    put your chain on small ring on front and rear, release your shifter cable un clamp it ,zero your adjuster on your mech, pull your cable tight and reclamp it shift to your next gear up rotate your drive while turning your mech adjuster anticlock until chain moves up ,it should then be indexed for all gears up and down might need to be fine tuned a bit jb


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    #13
    slurp
    Registered Users Posts: 17 ✭slurp


    you would need a bike stand to do this work


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    #14
    Tigerandahalf
    Registered Users Posts: 7,811 ✭✭✭Tigerandahalf


    Just a quick question to add to this. When adjusting the barrel clockwise, are you looking towards the front or rear of the bike, if that makes sense.


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    #15
    Cee-Jay-Cee
    Registered Users Posts: 12,235 ✭✭✭✭Cee-Jay-Cee


    Tigerandahalf wrote: »
    Just a quick question to add to this. When adjusting the barrel clockwise, are you looking towards the front or rear of the bike, if that makes sense.

    Standing behind the bike turn it clockwise.


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    #16
    Welshkev
    Registered Users Posts: 384 ✭✭Welshkev


    Thanks for all the replies -that's my evening's work sorted. Going to try replacing the cable, it's been a while anyway so it may just be easier to start from scratch at this point


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    #17
    slurp
    Registered Users Posts: 17 ✭slurp


    no standing with front wheel to your right on the drive side turn anti clock to tighten ie to shift up if when shifting up and wont shift quarter turn tighten and if when in mid range and won't drop down loosen its quite easy .just take your time very small ie quarter turns up or down to get it sweet ,if you stand at the rear of your bike when adjusting you will see the hanger move in or out this will give you the understanding of what's happening ,your chain needs to be in line in all gears ,cassette,and the two small jockey wheels ,jb


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    #18
    The GMan
    Registered Users Posts: 42 ✭The GMan


    On of the best video's I've seen on the topic.

    roadcyclinguk.com/how-to/maintenance/video-how-to-adjust-your-rear-derailleur.html#4HmbkWGKF5esiZvt.97


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