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Internal Wall Insulation

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  • 28-08-2013 8:54am
    #1
    brinner
    Registered Users Posts: 34 ✭


    Hi,

    We are looking at insulation the walls of our house. The house is cavity block built with plasterboard attached.

    Should we strip the wall back to the brick? Is there a chance of damp if we board over the current plasterboard?

    What is the best board for this job or are they all similar kingspan, Quinn therm etc?
    Best place to purchase these?

    What's the best way to do this battens or blobs?

    Many thanks in advance


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    #2
    Atlantic1
    Registered Users Posts: 368 ✭✭Atlantic1


    brinner wrote: »
    Hi,

    We are looking at insulation the walls of our house. The house is cavity block built with plasterboard attached.

    Should we strip the wall back to the brick? Is there a chance of damp if we board over the current plasterboard?

    What is the best board for this job or are they all similar kingspan, Quinn therm etc?
    Best place to purchase these?

    What's the best way to do this battens or blobs?

    Many thanks in advance

    I had the very same dilemma a few months back. I ended up putting 62.5mm onto the existing plasterboard. I achieved a U value of about 0.41 with which I was disappointed, in hindsight.

    If I had removed the existing drylining plasterboard, I'd have been able to use 82.5mm boards and would have a much lower U value.

    A WORD OF WARNING TO YOU.....

    Make sure the insulated plasterboard is foil backed!!!!!!!!! I used Kingspan TW52, presuming all insulated plasterboard was similar. Wrong! I should have used TW56 or Xtratherm which the builders providers didn't stock.

    The foil backed boards have a better U value and will also eliminate moisture/damp problems.

    Take a look here.

    If I were you, I'd go for the Mechanical Fix 5 Option. (For Xtratherm insulated boards, add 12.5mm for the plasterboard part).

    Feel free to PM me.


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    #3
    brinner
    Registered Users Posts: 34 ✭brinner


    Atlantic1 wrote: »
    I had the very same dilemma a few months back. I ended up putting 62.5mm onto the existing plasterboard. I achieved a U value of about 0.41 with which I was disappointed, in hindsight.

    If I had removed the existing drylining plasterboard, I'd have been able to use 82.5mm boards and would have a much lower U value.

    A WORD OF WARNING TO YOU.....

    Make sure the insulated plasterboard is foil backed!!!!!!!!! I used Kingspan TW52, presuming all insulated plasterboard was similar. Wrong! I should have used TW56 or Xtratherm which the builders providers didn't stock.

    The foil backed boards have a better U value and will also eliminate moisture/damp problems.

    Take a look here.

    If I were you, I'd go for the Mechanical Fix 5 Option. (For Xtratherm insulated boards, add 12.5mm for the plasterboard part).

    Feel free to PM me.


    Many thanks Atlantic1. I am thinking of Xtratherm XT/TL (MF) 50mm and Kingspan Therma TW56 and Kooltherm K18, don't know which is the best. Definey foil back.

    Do people usually get companies or plasterers to do this with a labourer doing. I assume battens are better than dabbing?


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    #4
    Atlantic1
    Registered Users Posts: 368 ✭✭Atlantic1


    brinner wrote: »
    Many thanks Atlantic1. I am thinking of Xtratherm XT/TL (MF) 50mm and Kingspan Therma TW56 and Kooltherm K18, don't know which is the best. Definey foil back.

    Do people usually get companies or plasterers to do this with a labourer doing. I assume battens are better than dabbing?

    The Xtratherm and the Kingspan TW56 are very similar in U value and price.

    The K18 has a slightly lower U value but it's more expensive.

    I was advised recently that the K18 isn't worth the extra money over the other two.

    I'd order the boards myself and get someone to put them up. Don't forget that you'll need someone to tape and joint them also.

    You'll get a lower U value if you use battens but you'll lose about 25mm in space. I personally would prefer to use that much extra insulation rather than battens . . . . .


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    #5
    brinner
    Registered Users Posts: 34 ✭brinner


    Atlantic1 wrote: »
    The Xtratherm and the Kingspan TW56 are very similar in U value and price.

    The K18 has a slightly lower U value but it's more expensive.

    I was advised recently that the K18 isn't worth the extra money over the other two.

    I'd order the boards myself and get someone to put them up. Don't forget that you'll need someone to tape and joint them also.

    You'll get a lower U value if you use battens but you'll lose about 25mm in space. I personally would prefer to use that much extra insulation rather than battens . . . . .

    Can someone pm me where the best place to get Xtratherm or Kingspan boards, I need 40, thinking 62.5mm


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    #6
    Atlantic1
    Registered Users Posts: 368 ✭✭Atlantic1


    brinner wrote: »
    Can someone pm me where the best place to get Xtratherm or Kingspan boards, I need 40, thinking 62.5mm

    Where are you based?


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    #7
    1930sRevamp
    Registered Users Posts: 11 ✭1930sRevamp


    Hi Guys,

    Anyone any idea on putting additional insulation between battons - I'm thinking 30mm Kooltherm or Knauf between battons & 62.5mm Ballytherm (50mm insulation board & 12.5 plaster board) attached to battons. Builder is telling me though, that as its solid masonry, putting even foil backed board directly against wall, will risk problems of moisture in time, and that a minimum of 40mm gap should be left between wall and insulation, and gap to be used as services duct. I'm just anxious that we've enough insulation?

    Also, any views in insulating "internal" solid masonry wall?

    Any advice would be great :)


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    #8
    brinner
    Registered Users Posts: 34 ✭brinner


    1930sRevamp wrote: »
    Hi Guys,

    Anyone any idea on putting additional insulation between battons - I'm thinking 30mm Kooltherm or Knauf between battons & 62.5mm Ballytherm (50mm insulation board & 12.5 plaster board) attached to battons. Builder is telling me though, that as its solid masonry, putting even foil backed board directly against wall, will risk problems of moisture in time, and that a minimum of 40mm gap should be left between wall and insulation, and gap to be used as services duct. I'm just anxious that we've enough insulation?

    Also, any views in insulating "internal" solid masonry wall?

    Any advice would be great :)

    There are many ways of doing it, everyone will have a different opinion

    I am going with foil backed kingspan directly onto masonry walls, which is option 5 in the below link


    http://www.xtratherm.com/wp-content/themes/xtra/downloads/publications/Xtratherm_UK_Drylining_Guide_11_3.pdf


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    #9
    kilclon
    Registered Users Posts: 185 ✭✭kilclon


    Have a read of the 'Breaking the Mould' articles here here. Hope your head doesn't hurt afterwards. I know mine did.


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    #10
    1930sRevamp
    Registered Users Posts: 11 ✭1930sRevamp


    brinner wrote: »
    There are many ways of doing it, everyone will have a different opinion

    I am going with foil backed kingspan directly onto masonry walls, which is option 5 in the below link


    http://www.xtratherm.com/wp-content/themes/xtra/downloads/publications/Xtratherm_UK_Drylining_Guide_11_3.pdf

    Brinner, I looked at that earlier today but it confused me as in the diagram it shows solid masonry option as batons with gap but later goes on to show u-values for stone, with other methods. Is there a preferred method for masonry or is it just preference?


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    #11
    brinner
    Registered Users Posts: 34 ✭brinner


    1930sRevamp wrote: »
    Brinner, I looked at that earlier today but it confused me as in the diagram it shows solid masonry option as batons with gap but later goes on to show u-values for stone, with other methods. Is there a preferred method for masonry or is it just preference?

    It shows direct fixing to the wall which is 5. if u fix directly to the wall u can get more insulation so lower u value with eating into less of your room. It depends on the size of ur rooms and what level of insulation u want


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    #12
    Hollywood130
    Registered Users Posts: 686 ✭✭✭Hollywood130


    Has anyone any idea of the cost of this stuff, this has definitely given me food for thought, I want to insulate all the internal 'external' walls of the house (if that makes sense)!! Where would be the best place to buy this stuff, I'm based in Sligo but don't mind travelling.

    Is there anyone in Ireland you can get if off direct rather than going through the building supplier?


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    #13
    brinner
    Registered Users Posts: 34 ✭brinner


    Hollywood130 wrote: »
    Has anyone any idea of the cost of this stuff, this has definitely given me food for thought, I want to insulate all the internal 'external' walls of the house (if that makes sense)!! Where would be the best place to buy this stuff, I'm based in Sligo but don't mind travelling.

    Is there anyone in Ireland you can get if off direct rather than going through the building supplier?[/quote

    It varies depending on thickness.
    Budget 30 - 40 Euro board with Kingspan the dearest. Width is 1.2m x height 2.4m. Measure up and work out the number of boards you need.

    Don't know about getting direct. You would need to ring builder suppliers. -snip- are good.


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    #14
    owen85
    Registered Users Posts: 139 ✭✭owen85


    dont see any difference between kingspan, ballytherm and xtratherm.

    on adverts.ie search "50mm Rigid Insulation For Sale"

    19 euro for 50mm sheet of ballytherm


    had they guy who wrote breaking the mould over to my house. all houses differ but its ok to stick rigid insulation board directly onto my hollow brick wall which also has a cement render on the outside. ive read and read and read so many things about insualtion, damp, mould etc that my head hurt, in the end i just called -snip- (breaking the mould author) and payed him per hour to call out to the house and tell me the best way of doing things.


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    #15
    brinner
    Registered Users Posts: 34 ✭brinner


    No real difference between Kingspan & Xtratherm in terms of uValue but typically Kingspan would be used if budget isn't an issue. Architects usually specify Kingsapn.


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    #16
    cerastes
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,601 ✭✭✭cerastes


    I havent gotten a quote myself, but upon looking into it out of curiosity, the prices seemed fairly steep for external insulation to be done.

    Just wondering is there anyway of bringing the cost down, to reduce the time to get a return on it and for making it more accessible.

    In many ways, I dont think its suitable to get done on semi or terraced houses, as if the neighbours arent getting it, it partly, looks odd/out of place, there could be issues with cold spots in the corners of your rooms beside where a neighbour hasnt gotten it done.

    Also, what is the durability of the insulation and plaster to impacts? footballs, or anything really, and of course, there is the fitting of any item which requires a fixed surface, such as a satellite dish. Obviously you can drill through to the wall, but aside from damaging the insulation, will the insulation then crush or become deformed where the dish mounting is over it?


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    #17
    brinner
    Registered Users Posts: 34 ✭brinner


    cerastes wrote: »
    I havent gotten a quote myself, but upon looking into it out of curiosity, the prices seemed fairly steep for external insulation to be done.

    Just wondering is there anyway of bringing the cost down, to reduce the time to get a return on it and for making it more accessible.

    In many ways, I dont think its suitable to get done on semi or terraced houses, as if the neighbours arent getting it, it partly, looks odd/out of place, there could be issues with cold spots in the corners of your rooms beside where a neighbour hasnt gotten it done.

    Also, what is the durability of the insulation and plaster to impacts? footballs, or anything really, and of course, there is the fitting of any item which requires a fixed surface, such as a satellite dish. Obviously you can drill through to the wall, but aside from damaging the insulation, will the insulation then crush or become deformed where the dish mounting is over it?

    Sorry only got internal done. Don't know anything about external insulation


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