Learning to operate a digger

JJ1988 · 19-04-2014 4:33pm #1

Hello guys,
I'm looking for some advice on learning to drive an excavator.Instead of going to a driving school,I am planning to rent out a machine for a week and practice in a field beside the house.My father was a crane driver by trade but also drove diggers occasionally.He has said he'll try and teach me the basics.Would I be able to learn much in a week in this way?I'm hoping to eventually drive the bigger machines some day.Would I be better off learning on a mini digger first?What I mean is do you operate a mini digger and the bigger machines in the same way?If I was able to operate a mini digger efficiently,would I then be able to make the move fairly easily to the bigger machines?Or are they completely different in the way you operate them?I appreciate any advice you can give me.

Stavros Murphy · 19-04-2014 5:54pm

JJ1988 wrote: »

Hello guys,
I'm looking for some advice on learning to drive an excavator.Instead of going to a driving school,I am planning to rent out a machine for a week and practice in a field beside the house.My father was a crane driver by trade but also drove diggers occasionally.He has said he'll try and teach me the basics.Would I be able to learn much in a week in this way?I'm hoping to eventually drive the bigger machines some day.Would I be better off learning on a mini digger first?What I mean is do you operate a mini digger and the bigger machines in the same way?If I was able to operate a mini digger efficiently,would I then be able to make the move fairly easily to the bigger machines?Or are they completely different in the way you operate them?I appreciate any advice you can give me.

Hi JJ, I used to teach people to drive heavy plant and conduct tests and issue Tickets for Fas, so I have some background with this. If I were you, I'd hire a 3 ton machine, find a big open space and practice. This will get you familiar with the controls and how the machine reacts, all good, but unless you have someone experienced to show you the ropes, what you are practising may well be the wrong way to do it rather than the right.

Leaving that aside, until you have mastered the controls, got comfortable on the machine and can drive smoothly, there is no point getting someone to watch you as you'll just be struggling with the basics. Bigger machines are easier to drive, believe it or not, smaller they are, harder they are. If you have mastered a 3 ton, stepping into a 20 ton is just scaling up your perceptions of the operating envelope of the machine - bigger reach, bigger footprint, bigger swing area. Get on a 3 ton and practice. Then you'll need to gain an operators ticket, which is a whole nother ball of wax, but learn to drive one first, and good luck. There's a lot worse you could be doing with your time.

Edit: One tip = never be nice on the internet. Someone will trip you up. Be a cynic, everyone loves a cynic.

westdub · 19-04-2014 6:16pm

Stavros Murphy wrote: »

One tip = when digging, the blade goes behind you, not in front. And the drive motors go behind you too. Old lags will argue, but for your test, that's the form, so start as you mean to go on. And good luck with it!

And how does that work as the blade and motors are at opposite ends of the tracks?

JJ1988 · 20-04-2014 12:15pm

Thanks very much for your response Stavros.I really appreciate it.I've looked up a few places local to me that rent out machines and it doesn't appear to be too expensive to rent a 3 ton machine.I much prefer the idea of doing it this way.Learning at my own pace and getting comfortable with the basics.I'm planning to spend long hours on the machine when I get it and luckily have a large enough area to practice in.
As I said,my father does have a fair bit of digger driving experience.However,it's quite a few years since he drove one.Have you any advice on the main things I should be looking to practice to make the most out of it?Would grading and trenching be the most important skills to develop?
Thanks again,
JJ

kay 9 · 20-04-2014 1:08pm

JJ1988 wrote: »

Thanks very much for your response Stavros.I really appreciate it.I've looked up a few places local to me that rent out machines and it doesn't appear to be too expensive to rent a 3 ton machine.I much prefer the idea of doing it this way.Learning at my own pace and getting comfortable with the basics.I'm planning to spend long hours on the machine when I get it and luckily have a large enough area to practice in.
As I said,my father does have a fair bit of digger driving experience.However,it's quite a few years since he drove one.Have you any advice on the main things I should be looking to practice to make the most out of it?Would grading and trenching be the most important skills to develop?
Thanks again,
JJ

A safe operator is a good operator. If you can grade on a 3 ton you'll be flying in the bigger machines

they are a giddy little thing. It's good practice to put the blade down if the machine has one to stabilise it. Positioning also makes life alot easier. Basically just dig holes and fill them back in and grade it after. Most of all have patience and finish one job before moving onto Smth else.

Sir Arthur Daley · 20-04-2014 1:13pm

westdub wrote: »

And how does that work as the blade and motors are at opposite ends of the tracks?

Maybe the ones he is talking about are 4wd?

jimbozaxis · 20-04-2014 1:53pm

JJ1988 wrote: »

Hello guys,
I'm looking for some advice on learning to drive an excavator.Instead of going to a driving school,I am planning to rent out a machine for a week and practice in a field beside the house.My father was a crane driver by trade but also drove diggers occasionally.He has said he'll try and teach me the basics.Would I be able to learn much in a week in this way?I'm hoping to eventually drive the bigger machines some day.Would I be better off learning on a mini digger first?What I mean is do you operate a mini digger and the bigger machines in the same way?If I was able to operate a mini digger efficiently,would I then be able to make the move fairly easily to the bigger machines?Or are they completely different in the way you operate them?I appreciate any advice you can give me.

I'v been operating diggers and plant from I was a wane. Best way to learn is in an open field!! Far away from any leccky wires or other services. A soild hour at the controls and you would soon get to know the controls. A week and you would probly be as good as some of the boys i'v seen on sites. Getting to know the controls is only a small part in machine operating in my opinon. Learning the best aproch to a job is more important. And its only with years of experiance and parctise you will master this. I'm 28 now been around machines since I could walk and I still learn new things everyday. I wish you every success with your venture cause good clean tidy careful operartors ain't easy got now.
My advice is always take everybit of advice your giving on board. I ave saw to many digger drivers come along and won't take no advice. There the boys that never make it and end up out of a job.

Stavros Murphy · 20-04-2014 2:25pm

JJ1988 wrote: »

Thanks very much for your response Stavros.I really appreciate it.I've looked up a few places local to me that rent out machines and it doesn't appear to be too expensive to rent a 3 ton machine.I much prefer the idea of doing it this way.Learning at my own pace and getting comfortable with the basics.I'm planning to spend long hours on the machine when I get it and luckily have a large enough area to practice in.
As I said,my father does have a fair bit of digger driving experience.However,it's quite a few years since he drove one.Have you any advice on the main things I should be looking to practice to make the most out of it?Would grading and trenching be the most important skills to develop?
Thanks again,
JJ

To get your licence you'll be asked to dig a trench, with a square start - vertically down, and good clean sides, straight and level, then fill it back in neatly. If you practice this, you're on the right track. Focus on smoothness and precision, forget speed, speed comes with time, and learn how to get your machine good and level and steady before you start digging - no rocking or juddering, just nice and smooth.

Youtube is good for watching a video of a good lad driving - copy the way they drive - think of the digger arm as your own arm and move it like you would your arm - smooth, steady and predictable. Once you are safe, predictable and smooth, people will be happy to work beside you - no-one wants to work beside a lad who is rough and unpredictable. Just too dangerous.

101sean · 20-04-2014 7:17pm

I worked for my bro in law a couple years ago, he has a 3t Kubota and is superb operator. I'd never operated one and he told me to get in and get on with it and left me to practice. I loved it and can do an OK job now. I found working on 3/4 throttle was best otherwise I got jerky and I still make a bit of mess loading a dumper with a wide bucket. Swapping buckets with a quick hitch needs practice! One thing he drummed into me was taking care of the tracks crossing kerbs and sharp edges.

We had a 1t machine for one job, that bounced about all over the show but I'd love to have a go on a bigger machine.

JJ1988 · 21-04-2014 1:53pm

Big thanks for all the comments lads.It's great to hear from fellas who know their stuff.I'll be sure to take all of your advice on board.I don't want to be one of those chancers you can across on site who are a danger to other workers.I'm determined to become a competent,safe operator.It's something I've been thinking of doing for awhile and I'm very excited now about getting going.I'll be renting a 3 ton machine out very soon.
Thanks again!

holystungun9 · 03-05-2014 10:26pm

Another aspect to 'plant life' so to speak, is general care and respect for the machinery you are using, whether it's yours or someone else's.
When you get the machine from the hire crowd it could range from newish and in very good nick to having been around the block plenty of times.
Even if there are some leaks here and there or it is physically battered, it should still be fit to do the job you want to do.

Get into the habit of doing a walk around inspection of the machine looking for any trouble, leaks, pinched hoses or other stuff. Not for the sake of complaining to the hire company but just to be the type of person who is observant and sees potential problems before anything bad happens.

For the first few days there may be no issues but maybe on the last day you see there is a patch of oil under the machine. Is it oil? what oil? Is it from the machine or not? All that crap under tracks, is the roller still rolling? Is the track damaged or showing signs of a future failure?

Not sure if you will ever run your own machine one day but no harm to learn good habits now. I've met so many cowboy drivers over the years and even as I say that I do realise some people make a big distinction to folk who are drivers and others who are 'operators' and their work is not exclusively the jump in, do the job and tear off down the road after work, but the whole care of the machine, work area, and the completion or the job.

"Oil level? Hours? Have I cleaned the air filter? Has that leak gotten worse? Any other problems? No idea boss! Actually it seems to be running a bit slow since about a week ago and one of the teeth on the bucket was loose and is now missing"

Don't be that guy!

Manc Red · 07-05-2014 2:31am

Stavros Murphy wrote: »

To get your licence you'll be asked to dig a trench, with a square start - vertically down, and good clean sides, straight and level, then fill it back in neatly. If you practice this, you're on the right track. Focus on smoothness and precision, forget speed, speed comes with time, and learn how to get your machine good and level and steady before you start digging - no rocking or juddering, just nice and smooth.

Youtube is good for watching a video of a good lad driving - copy the way they drive - think of the digger arm as your own arm and move it like you would your arm - smooth, steady and predictable. Once you are safe, predictable and smooth, people will be happy to work beside you - no-one wants to work beside a lad who is rough and unpredictable. Just too dangerous.

What is the process for getting a license?

Do you need a license for digger that you own yourself?

Do you need a license for a JCB backhoe?

Some motivation for the OP:

gctest50 · 07-05-2014 2:42am

:cool:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sA0WDoTtTT8

CJ Haughey · 22-12-2014 12:56am

Im in same position as op here, bought a track machine 3.5 tonne. Part time farmer so only working machine saturdays at the moment. What is the best approach track motors at front or rear or blade at front or rear for digging drains?

kay 9 · 22-12-2014 11:28am

CJ Haughey wrote: »

Im in same position as op here, bought a track machine 3.5 tonne. Part time farmer so only working machine saturdays at the moment. What is the best approach track motors at front or rear or blade at front or rear for digging drains?

Idlers at the front, sprockets behind you. The blade is the same side as the idlers. Try keep the idlers in front as much as you can. For some drains, especially cleaning them, sideways is ok too but don't pull at the tracks too much

CJ Haughey · 23-12-2014 3:22am

kay 9 wrote: »

Idlers at the front, sprockets behind you. The blade is the same side as the idlers. Try keep the idlers in front as much as you can. For some drains, especially cleaning them, sideways is ok too but don't pull at the tracks too much

Thanks for that Kay 9, sounds good been talking to a contractor earlier too today too and told me same as what you say. Goes against advice earlier in this thread of blade in front but then again a so called teacher/instructor not knowing one end of a track machine from another is another story.

Kevhog1988 · 23-12-2014 12:39pm

CJ Haughey wrote: »

Thanks for that Kay 9, sounds good been talking to a contractor earlier too today too and told me same as what you say. Goes against advice earlier in this thread of blade in front but then again a so called teacher/instructor not knowing one end of a track machine from another is another story.

Depending on the job the blade will be on different sides.... For grading i would have the blade infront so you can pull the excess into the blade and lift it. For cleaning a drain i will often leverage the machine off the ground so i can get the bucket deeper.

Just got my digger ticket last week after beem driving them since i was about 6yr old ðŸ˜. Digging around services is a whole other ball game altogether

Tail Docker · 23-12-2014 11:09pm

CJ Haughey wrote: »

Thanks for that Kay 9, sounds good been talking to a contractor earlier too today too and told me same as what you say. Goes against advice earlier in this thread of blade in front but then again a so called teacher/instructor not knowing one end of a track machine from another is another story.

Lol - there may have been drink involved when that was posted...or more likley just a tired typist.

Kevin McCloud · 11-01-2015 2:59am

Its only logical that the track motors and blade are at opposite ends. What kind of a track machine would you have if the motors and blade were at the same end.
Learning to operate a digger is best done thought by an experienced person, too many you tube heroes and bar stool professionals thinking they know everything.
Op and cj best advice as stated get practical experience off local machine operators.

Stoned Since 2011 · 29-01-2016 2:06am

Who has got the machine with four track motors? i.e got rid of the idlers.

tomwaterford · 29-01-2016 10:19pm

Stoned Since 2011 wrote: »

Who has got the machine with four track motors? i.e got rid of the idlers.

This makes no sense....what would tighten the chains??

Stoned Since 2011 · 29-01-2016 11:23pm

tomwaterford wrote: »

This makes no sense....what would tighten the chains??

The tracks you mean?

tomwaterford · 29-01-2016 11:26pm

Stoned Since 2011 wrote: »

The tracks you mean?

Track chains??
What I always known them as....but yes...you can't realistically remove the idlers in exchange for extra motors

Stoned Since 2011 · 29-01-2016 11:32pm

tomwaterford wrote: »

Track chains??
What I always known them as....but yes...you can't realistically remove the idlers in exchange for extra motors

Why not, put them in and have them adjustable. Like the Same tractors with the two alternators if one fails you have the other.

tomwaterford · 29-01-2016 11:39pm

Stoned Since 2011 wrote: »

Why not, put them in and have them adjustable. Like the Same tractors with the two alternators if one fails you have the other.

They don't fail though (practically never)....industrial machinery tends to be dear for a reason...quality

You see 50+ year old hymac rocking around with maybe 40k+ hours and motors still original (maybe leaking)

It is more likely the outside gear/epicyclic unit will fail

Also the outer gear unit is massively expensive and that is why we were always told at fas to dig with the idlers to the front if something falls/damages it....significantly cheaper

Stoned Since 2011 · 29-01-2016 11:41pm

You would have serious power though with four track motors.

tomwaterford · 29-01-2016 11:46pm

Stoned Since 2011 wrote: »

You would have serious power though with four track motors.

For the cost of adding the extra motors and balancing them through the centre joint...you could buy a proper sized machine to do the work a diggers meant to do??
IE:digging not bolixing around tracking (the most expensive/worst thing mechanically to do with a digger is high speed tracking)

Stoned Since 2011 · 30-01-2016 12:06am

Time is money, not always pratical to load a machine to get it from A to B, a track machine with four track motors would be fast, stick a twin turbo on the engine too.

tomwaterford · 30-01-2016 12:15am

Stoned Since 2011 wrote: »

Time is money, not always pratical to load a machine to get it from A to B, a track machine with four track motors would be fast, stick a twin turbo on the engine too.

It will cost you 10 times as much to track a machine in wearing parts idlers,chains,rollers,sprockets etc than to load it and transport it over any real distance...
.unless of course you enjoy that bolixing around rebuilding undercarriages and have money to burn at it....

For this imaginary extra track Motors you will now require a larger hyd pump and reservoir....€€€
Would you not be better served with a 3cx type backhoe machine??

Stoned Since 2011 · 30-01-2016 12:20am

tomwaterford wrote: »

For this imaginary extra track Motors you will now require a larger hyd pump and reservoir....€€€
Would you not be better served with a 3cx type backhoe machine??

A larger pump is no expense, same as reservoir. Idea sounds mad I know but I believe its a runner.
A 3cx wouldn't suit.

tomwaterford · 30-01-2016 12:25am

Stoned Since 2011 wrote: »

A larger pump is no expense, same as reservoir. Idea sounds mad I know but I believe its a runner.
A 3cx wouldn't suit.

If you've money to waste...don't let me stop you :pac:
Though there is also the rubber duck option which may suit for you??

Same as a track machine but on four wheels???

Learning to operate a digger

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