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Toyota Yaris P0340 Error Code

  • 20-06-2013 8:48am
    #1
    Merry Prankster
    Registered Users Posts: 261 ✭✭


    Hey everyone,

    I have a 2000 1.0 Yaris that has had the engine management light come on intermittently for the past while. It never stays on long and then disappears for a time. When it does come on I notice that the engine is fairly sluggish and can be a little juddery.

    When my mechanic hooked it up it gave a P0340, indicating a problem in the camshaft position sensor circuit. He called the local Toyota dealer to check the price of a new sensor and was told that they very rarely malfunction and that the problem may be caused by a stretched timing chain, although from what I've read online it seems that if this were the case, it would more likely return a P0341 code.

    I was wondering if anyone has encountered a similar problem with the Yaris and managed to fix it?

    The only other thing I have noticed (which might suggest a timing chain connection) is a slight rattle when the accelerator is pressed. The rattle only occurs about halfway down the path of the pedal - when I ease off a little or press the pedal further down, the sound disappears.

    Is the cam position sensor circuit something I could tackle myself, i.e. is it worth buying the Hayne's manual?!

    Any help is greatly appreciated!


    Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0340
    Copyright © OBD-Codes.com


Comments

  • #2
    joujoujou
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,810 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    It is possible that timing chain is worn already.

    It's also possible (but unlikely tbh) that camshaft position sensor is contaminated.

    Chain tensioner can be worn as well - I'd start from this actually.

    What mileage?


  • #3
    Merry Prankster
    Registered Users Posts: 261 ✭✭Merry Prankster


    joujoujou wrote: »

    What mileage?


    109,500. I've looked after it the year and a half that I've had it, but I suspect it was neglected by previous owners.

    Until I got the P0340 code yesterday I suspected that it was a faulty MAF sensor that was causing the problem. Whenever I clean this the sluggishness reduces/disappears and the idle, which occasionally becomes a little erratic, returns to normal. I was surprised when I found out this wasn't what was triggering the engine management light.

    I take it the chain tensioner is a hefty and expensive job that's best left to a mechanic?!

    Cheers for your reply.


  • #4
    joujoujou
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,810 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    I guess (as I have toyota, but slightly different engine) that wouldn't be really difficult job.

    As far as I remember tensioner itself costs roughly 30-40 from dealer, plus seal (cheap), 2 nuts to undo, pull out, put new in (look at the old one where's top, where's bottom), nuts back, 5th gear up (engine not running) and pull a car back to unlock tensioner's assembly hook. :)

    And yes, Haynes would help indeed.


  • #5
    Kencollins
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 567 ✭✭✭Kencollins


    From what you describe it could be either the CPS, the tensioner, or the chain.

    I'm sure there is a way to measure the tensioner's protrusion. If the tensioner is almost fully protruded then that would indicate that the chain has stretched.

    Is the car refusing to start sometimes? This can be a symptom of a bad CPS, it is telling the engine management to fire the spark at the wrong time and causing mayhem!

    I'm sure you could find the resistance value of what the CPS SHOULD be online, and stick a multimeter on the connector and see what it says.

    Ken


  • #6
    Merry Prankster
    Registered Users Posts: 261 ✭✭Merry Prankster


    joujoujou wrote: »

    As far as I remember tensioner itself costs roughly 30-40 from dealer, plus seal (cheap), 2 nuts to undo, pull out, put new in (look at the old one where's top, where's bottom), nuts back, 5th gear up (engine not running) and pull a car back to unlock tensioner's assembly hook. :)

    And yes, Haynes would help indeed.

    Doesn't sound too complicated or difficult, I'll definitely grab the Hayne's and give it a go.
    Kencollins wrote: »
    From what you describe it could be either the CPS, the tensioner, or the chain.

    I'm sure there is a way to measure the tensioner's protrusion. If the tensioner is almost fully protruded then that would indicate that the chain has stretched.

    Is the car refusing to start sometimes? This can be a symptom of a bad CPS, it is telling the engine management to fire the spark at the wrong time and causing mayhem!

    I'm sure you could find the resistance value of what the CPS SHOULD be online, and stick a multimeter on the connector and see what it says.

    Ken

    I've had no problems with the car starting. Tbh it runs absolutely fine most of the time, but occasionally does become a little sluggish after which the EML pops on with a P0340.

    That, and the fact that the engine has become noisier, with a slight but noticeable rattle when the pedal is depressed about halfway.

    I'll grab the Hayne's manual and have a look at the CPS and the tensioner. Hopefully it's these rather than the chain itself.


    Cheers for all the help lads.


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