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Oroco kitchen worktop which was neglected, how to bring back to original state

  • 24-03-2012 9:14am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 373 ✭✭


    Hello,
    I have a worktop with Oroco wood fitted 7 years ago in a rented house, while I offered oil to tenant to apply annually it was never done.

    Any advice on bringing it back to it's natural state ?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    I presume you mean iroko ?
    After seven years it will have plenty of dents and stains ?
    I'd sand it back to bare wood with a random orbital sander and refinish.( try and use dust extraction or a good cartridge mask as Iroko gives off a dust like pepper )
    Wax /oil combinations like Osmopolyx are great but pricey. There's nothing wrong with boiled linseed oil but it needs 3-4 coats, repeated once yearly or so.
    Many people suggest two pack varnishes etc but I've yet to find a varnish that stood up to water and heat abuse.


  • Registered Users Posts: 373 ✭✭david4791


    Thanks for the spellcheck, thanks also for the advice


  • Registered Users Posts: 373 ✭✭david4791


    What are the directions for boiling linseed oil? Vis a vis to what extent?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    david4791 wrote: »
    What are the directions for boiling linseed oil? Vis a vis to what extent?

    No need.!
    Linseed oil is sold as 'raw' or 'boiled'. It confused me for a long time until I learnt that it simply means chemicals are added to make the boiled version dry faster.Its never actually 'boiled'.
    Most hardware shops will have 'Rustins' , sold in small bottles but its a little pricey for what you get.Try the dedicated paint shops and you may get a better deal as you will need about 500cc to give a worktop a few coats.
    There is a technique to get good results with all oils.
    Rub on generously with a green pan wash up scourer. (Avoid wire wool as residues will rust in time ) Leave about 20 mins when the surface will look a little patchy and then clean off with kitchen roll or a cloth to leave a soft sheen.
    Repeat this the next day (to give the surface time to harden up) The more coats you give it, the better it will look.
    Allow about 3 days for it to be dry enough to use.
    Lastly, don't leave the cloths/ kitchen roll squashed into a ball as they can apparently self combust, although I've never actually heard of this happening to anybody.


  • Registered Users Posts: 373 ✭✭david4791


    Thanks Recipio, great advice


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 879 ✭✭✭woodturner


    Be very careful of the dust though, I ended up in hospital with Nettle Rash from Iroko dust.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    david4791 wrote: »
    Thanks Recipio, great advice

    Most welcome.
    I never give advice unless I've done it myself and linseed is a lovely natural substance to use.
    I forgot to say that its worth steaming out any scratches or dents ( after sanding ) if you really want a great finish. Just soak a cloth in water, squeeze out and use a hot iron over it to steam the blemishes. Makes a big difference.
    All exotic woods can cause a rash unfortunately, worse when mixed with (ahem) sweat. !


  • Registered Users Posts: 373 ✭✭david4791


    Thanks again.


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