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VW Bora - replacing brake pads.

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  • 18-06-2014 1:52pm
    #1
    A Greedy Algorithm
    Registered Users Posts: 252 ✭✭


    The brake pad light on the dash board came on last week, from reading online this indicated that i need to replace the brake pads.

    I have little knowledge of car maintenance and was wondering a few things:

    1. Do VW Boras (diesel) have both front and rear brake pads? If so how do i know which are worn?

    2. How much would this cost (roughly) to get someone to change them? Is this something i could maybe do i myself?


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    #2
    Meso Harney
    Registered Users Posts: 78 ✭✭Meso Harney


    1. You will need to check both front and rear. Check YouTube for a guide, it's not hard if you are even a little bit handy. You can buy a Draper tool (7mm Allen key) for about €5-10, the only specialist thing you need. Pads are circa €40 for a bora (front) iirc.

    2. Cost will depend where you go; to supply and fit fronts >€150; of course if you know someone who will take it on as a nixer it'll be less.


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    #3
    A Greedy Algorithm
    Registered Users Posts: 252 ✭✭A Greedy Algorithm


    Meso Harney wrote: »
    1. You will need to check both front and rear. Check YouTube for a guide, it's not hard if you are even a little bit handy. You can buy a Draper tool (7mm Allen key) for about €5-10, the only specialist thing you need. Pads are circa €40 for a bora (front) iirc.

    2. Cost will depend where you go; to supply and fit fronts >€150; of course if you know someone who will take it on as a nixer it'll be less.

    Thank you.

    The pads were €35. I know a few people who could possible do it from there house/in the evening so i will see what they can do for me. I was hoping it was maybe possible to try and do it myself but i will probably just run into trouble.


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    #4
    mickdw
    Registered Users Posts: 23,280 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    A Greedy Algorithm wrote: »
    Thank you.

    The pads were €35. I know a few people who could possible do it from there house/in the evening so i will see what they can do for me. I was hoping it was maybe possible to try and do it myself but i will probably just run into trouble.

    Get someone like a mate or who ever to do them this time as you say you have little knowledge.
    Watch the process and things to look out for etc then maybe you can do them the next time yourself.
    The warning light will be sure to the front pads being near the limit of wear. There will be no sensor on the rear so these need to be checked over also.


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    #5
    Interslice
    Registered Users Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭Interslice


    Sometimes the wires/connectors to the sensor just get cut or damaged even if the pads are fine.


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    #6
    Meso Harney
    Registered Users Posts: 78 ✭✭Meso Harney


    And to be fair, the wear indicator is generous, there will be quite a bit of meat left on the pads.


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    #7
    A Greedy Algorithm
    Registered Users Posts: 252 ✭✭A Greedy Algorithm


    Meso Harney wrote: »
    And to be fair, the wear indicator is generous, there will be quite a bit of meat left on the pads.

    Yeah when i looked up the warning light is stated it was more of an 'indicator' that they needed to be changed instead of being urgent red light. I've clocked about 300 miles since.


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    #8
    V.W.L 11
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,586 ✭✭✭V.W.L 11


    A Greedy Algorithm wrote: »
    Yeah when i looked up the warning light is stated it was more of an 'indicator' that they needed to be changed instead of being urgent red light. I've clocked about 300 miles since.
    the one I have is a 1.4,00 reg,it has from and rear pads,i'm well able to change the front pads but I've never tackled rear pads.


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    #9
    mickdw
    Registered Users Posts: 23,280 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    V.W.L 11 wrote: »
    the one I have is a 1.4,00 reg,it has from and rear pads,i'm well able to change the front pads but I've never tackled rear pads.

    The only difference front to back is you have to wind in the piston on the rear calipers versus just pushing it back in on the front brakes.
    You can buy a tool for winding these in from 20 quid upwards. Pain in the ass without the tool.


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    #10
    A Greedy Algorithm
    Registered Users Posts: 252 ✭✭A Greedy Algorithm


    So are the brake pads compatible with both the front and back?

    The pads cost me 35 and i rang the local garage today and they said they'll cost 20 euro to install which seems fair.


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    #11
    Meso Harney
    Registered Users Posts: 78 ✭✭Meso Harney


    different pads for front or rear. €20 more than reasonable, I'd pay that for a favour from a mate, so very cheap.


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    #12
    V.W.L 11
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,586 ✭✭✭V.W.L 11


    mickdw wrote: »
    The only difference front to back is you have to wind in the piston on the rear calipers versus just pushing it back in on the front brakes.
    You can buy a tool for winding these in from 20 quid upwards. Pain in the ass without the tool.
    Have tool never knew it had to be wound,just assumed pushed :confused:


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    #13
    GTE
    Registered Users Posts: 3,908 ✭✭✭GTE


    V.W.L 11 wrote: »
    Have tool never knew it had to be wound,just assumed pushed :confused:

    If the tool is the Draper one, it doubles up as a winder or a pusher depending on what attachment you use.

    OP, the pads are DIYable. If you are interested in it, and are keen on keeping the car for a considerable amount of time, investing in the brake winder tool and Hayes manual would be good. Axle stand and jack too, you could borrow them maybe? You could get your friends/contacts to supervise you or give you a hand.


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    #14
    mickdw
    Registered Users Posts: 23,280 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    V.W.L 11 wrote: »
    Have tool never knew it had to be wound,just assumed pushed :confused:

    The basic version of the tool can generally be used to push in or twist in piston depending on how you use it.
    It would have come with an attachment with 2 pins that'd stick out. If you use this, the pins will lock into groves in the end of the piston and your twisting action will twist the piston also.
    Using it without the pins locking into place will allow your twisting action to just push the piston in.
    Remember push in fronts. Wind in rears.
    And yes the pads are different front and rear. Front will typically be bigger.


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    #15
    V.W.L 11
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,586 ✭✭✭V.W.L 11


    could someone please tell me how in the name of god do I open the air filter box on a bora???I am baffled as to how to do it,this is a first,no screws that I can see,no clips :confused:


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    #16
    mickdw
    Registered Users Posts: 23,280 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    V.W.L 11 wrote: »
    could someone please tell me how in the name of god do I open the air filter box on a bora???I am baffled as to how to do it,this is a first,no screws that I can see,no clips :confused:

    There must be torx head screws or clips surely although I'm not familiar with them.


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    #17
    V.W.L 11
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,586 ✭✭✭V.W.L 11


    mickdw wrote: »
    There must be torx head screws or clips surely although I'm not familiar with them.
    I would have assumed thre very same as yourself,i'll look again.


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    #18
    V.W.L 11
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,586 ✭✭✭V.W.L 11


    mickdw wrote: »
    There must be torx head screws or clips surely although I'm not familiar with them.
    got it open :D very unusual looking air filter though :eek:


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    #19
    tossy
    Registered Users Posts: 9,589 ✭✭✭tossy


    V.W.L 11 wrote: »
    got it open :D very unusual looking air filter though :eek:

    You sure it's the air box you opened ? :)


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    #20
    V.W.L 11
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,586 ✭✭✭V.W.L 11


    tossy wrote: »
    You sure it's the air box you opened ? :)
    110% :D


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    #21
    A Greedy Algorithm
    Registered Users Posts: 252 ✭✭A Greedy Algorithm


    Small bit of topic -

    My car stereo in my Bora is playing up and I'd like to replace it.I have 2 other stereos but the cabling at back is different.

    Is there anyway i can connect a new stereo or do i have to find one that is compatible?


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    #22
    tossy
    Registered Users Posts: 9,589 ✭✭✭tossy


    A Greedy Algorithm wrote: »
    Small bit of topic -

    My car stereo in my Bora is playing up and I'd like to replace it.I have 2 other stereos but the cabling at back is different.

    Is there anyway i can connect a new stereo or do i have to find one that is compatible?

    you need to get an ISO adapter, you'll get on in Halfords etc


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    #23
    A Greedy Algorithm
    Registered Users Posts: 252 ✭✭A Greedy Algorithm


    tossy wrote: »
    you need to get an ISO adapter, you'll get on in Halfords etc

    Thanks very much, i knew there would be a way!


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    #24
    V.W.L 11
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,586 ✭✭✭V.W.L 11


    right lads and lassies I need your help big time,my bora has started to over heat right up to the red line,before I changed the air filter yesterday it was fine,i last drove it for over 20 miles on mnday no problems,could the fact I changed the air filter be the reason for this?? :confused: the waterpump has already been changed and it is not losing any fluid whatsoever,all advice welcome :(

    NOTE: I checked the 2 pipes connected to the radiator,one is hot the other is cold!bad thermostat perhaps???


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    #25
    cletus
    Registered Users Posts: 7,883 ✭✭✭cletus


    I would plump for thermostat all right. Make sure you don't cook you hg


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    #26
    V.W.L 11
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,586 ✭✭✭V.W.L 11


    cletus wrote: »
    I would plump for thermostat all right. Make sure you don't cook you hg
    if the thermostat was gone though wuld I not lose the heat from the fan inside the car???she's parked up now and is staying that way.only happened after I washed it I think anyway,switch????


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    #27
    mickdw
    Registered Users Posts: 23,280 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    Can't see how it would be connected to changing air filter as long as you are sure it was the air filter you changed : )
    The only outside possibility I can think of is that maybe you somehow disconnected wiring to the engine cooling fan or mistakingly loosened a coolant pipe or coolant bleed screw or left the cap off coolant reservoir.
    It's likely just a coincidence though and is not related to your work.


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    #28
    cletus
    Registered Users Posts: 7,883 ✭✭✭cletus


    V.W.L 11 wrote: »
    if the thermostat was gone though wuld I not lose the heat from the fan inside the car???she's parked up now and is staying that way.only happened after I washed it I think anyway,switch????

    yeah i saw your post in the other thread. Have a look at the actual connector at the fan wiring and see is it wet first.


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    #29
    V.W.L 11
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,586 ✭✭✭V.W.L 11


    cletus wrote: »
    yeah i saw your post in the other thread. Have a look at the actual connector at the fan wiring and see is it wet first.
    thanks for that Cletus,i am just hoping to god it is only wet wiring,i'll fire it up there now shortly and hope for the best :(


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    #30
    V.W.L 11
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,586 ✭✭✭V.W.L 11


    mystery solved,the thermostat housing failed


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