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OFCH: Cleaning out the oil filter?

  • 23-03-2013 10:42pm
    #1
    fullerand
    Registered Users Posts: 232 ✭✭


    Hi there,

    Ran out of oil this evening - annoyingly for the second time in two months (have been doing small fills).

    When this happens, it used to be that I'd be able to get the tank refilled, bleed out the airlock, and I'd be back in action. However the last two times this has happened, this didn't help and I've needed to call out a plumber - I think he has either replaced or cleaned the filter due to sludge from the bottom of the tank getting sucked in.

    Is this a job I ought to be able to do myself? I've attached a pic of the filter - any help would be much appreciated. I'm not sure how to use the valve to the left of the picture - it seems to be reverse-screwed. If I open up the filter do I run the risk of creating a really big airlock?

    Thanks


Comments

  • #2
    Robbie.G
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    fullerand wrote: »
    Hi there,

    Ran out of oil this evening - annoyingly for the second time in two months (have been doing small fills).

    When this happens, it used to be that I'd be able to get the tank refilled, bleed out the airlock, and I'd be back in action. However the last two times this has happened, this didn't help and I've needed to call out a plumber - I think he has either replaced or cleaned the filter due to sludge from the bottom of the tank getting sucked in.

    Is this a job I ought to be able to do myself? I've attached a pic of the filter - any help would be much appreciated. I'm not sure how to use the valve to the left of the picture - it seems to be reverse-screwed. If I open up the filter do I run the risk of creating a really big airlock?

    Thanks
    Screw back the fire valve to turn off the oil it has a reverse tread.Screw back the filter it has a normal tread remove the filter and check same.When you have the filter bowl off put something that can catch oil and turn on the fire valve slowly for a min to bleed the oil from there.When you get oil there close fire valve screw up filter bowl and test heating. If there was a lot of sludge it's possible the oil pumps internal filter is also blocked if so you might need domeone out


  • #3
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,304 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    That is the old filament type fire valve and yes it has a LH thread. You could use this to turn off the oil flow when cleaning out the filter. Doing that will also reveal if the valve shaft is sticking. There is normally more to bleeding than just cleaning the filter. I know times are difficult, but if you can at all don't keep letting it run out. It will eventually damage the pump on the burner (running dry) and will cost well over 100 Euro to have a replacement fitted.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • #4
    shane0007
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    Don't unscrew that as it is the fire valve and has nothing to do with the filter.
    Turn off the isolation valve at the oil tank. The filter bowl is the silver bodied unit to the right of the fire valve. The bottom half of this bowl unscrews in the normal anti-clockwise direction.
    Remove the gauze filter from within and wash clean with the fuel you are using, i.e. kerosene or gas oil, NOT WATER. Re-instate filter & filter bowl. Turn back on the oil & bleed the burner.
    The air lock is not caused by sludge but by insufficient oil within the tank to create enough head of pressure to force full flow of fuel to push any air from the line. Filling with larger quantities of fuel will eliminate this.


  • #5
    shane0007
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    Wheel type fire valves are not oil supply isolation valves and should never be used for the purpose of service isolation. The lead holding the stem to the valve body very often comes away and you will be left with no fire protection whatsoever.

    Always use the oil supply isolation valve.


  • #6
    jimf
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,960 ✭✭✭jimf


    be careful when unscrewing the bowl from the filter there is an o ring which may or may not come free from the filter body if lost or damaged when refitting the bowl you will have an oil leak which you wont be able to seal


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  • #7
    fullerand
    Registered Users Posts: 232 ✭✭fullerand


    shane0007 wrote: »
    Don't unscrew that as it is the fire valve and has nothing to do with the filter.
    Turn off the isolation valve at the oil tank. The filter bowl is the silver bodied unit to the right of the fire valve. The bottom half of this bowl unscrews in the normal anti-clockwise direction.
    Remove the gauze filter from within and wash clean with the fuel you are using, i.e. kerosene or gas oil, NOT WATER. Re-instate filter & filter bowl. Turn back on the oil & bleed the burner.
    The air lock is not caused by sludge but by insufficient oil within the tank to create enough head of pressure to force full flow of fuel to push any air from the line. Filling with larger quantities of fuel will eliminate this.

    Thanks Shane. We can't get a fill until Tuesday - I'm thinking it might make sense to try cleaning out the filter now while the tank is empty. Means I don't have to worry about messing up the isolation and getting flooded in oil.

    Would it be fair to say that cleaning out the filter is a simple enough job? Seems to be, based on your description above. Is it a messy task, as in oil everywhere?


  • #8
    shane0007
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    fullerand wrote: »
    Would it be fair to say that cleaning out the filter is a simple enough job? Seems to be, based on your description above. Is it a messy task, as in oil everywhere?
    Yes, simple but turn off the valve at the tank anyhow & follow instructions as I said. Should be no mess at all. Have a pot or tray under the filter whilst unscrewing it. There will be minimal oil in it.


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